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I'm still weighing my options on this one. It's driveable for now, so I'm not forced to decide one way or the other.....and I need the car (don't feel like paying for a rental while dealership after dealership look at it). I just have a feeling that no matter which dealership I go to, they're gonna give me the same "not covered under warranty" angle.....even if it is 100% the car. I mean, really, unless I'm standing next to them when they open it all up, how else could I ever prove that something wasn't nesting in there? They can essentially say whatever they want.
I also noticed that when I step on the gas the car makes rattling or knocking noise.... what could this be?
I actually had a rat eat thru my firewall when the car had only 7K miles on it. I nearly traded the car in then. The recall happened after that point.....water under the bridge. Well, I now have 35K on it.
For the engine clicking, what I normally do is to remove the accessory belt, and then start the engine briefly. If the clicking continues, then you know the problem is internal to the engine. If the clicking stops, then the problem is with one of the accessories driven by the accessory belt. I typically find problems external to the engine, as opposed to internal. With the engine off, and belt off, you can then turn the accessories by hand, and feel whether the bearings are good or not (looking for wobble, free and smooth, etc). Replace what is bad.
For the air conditioner 'swooshing', I assume that is a noise you hear inside the passenger compartment. That may be low water levels in the radiator/heater, or low freon levels in the A/C system. Or, it could be a number of other things. It's much easier for someone to diagnose something when they hear the sound themselves, as opposed to your interpretation of a sound, relayed across written words to the internet.
So get someone to look at it, and see what their diagnosis is.
Many people confuse a sound that they think is valve noise with the pinging that is created by use of low octane fuel. The way to distinguish those two types of noise, which both sound similar; is to notice when and under what conditions the sound is loudest. Valve train clicking is usually loudest when the motor is idling; and does not become louder when stepping on the gas. It often can also be heard while the car is slowing down. Valve train clicking is often caused by not changing the oil often enough, or by using an unsuitable oil type, or by mixing or changing brands or types of oil. Contrary to popular myth; the additives in many oil types will react chemically with each other, which can lead to shortened engine life and possible engine damage if one brand and viscosity of oil is not used consistently.
By contrast, pinging usually cannot be heard at all when the motor idles or is slowing down; and becomes louder as you press the accelerator pedal further. Pinging can be caused either by low fuel quality; or can also be caused by excessive engine temperature, or low engine oil level. Please be aware that some types of coolant leaks can cause the coolant level in the radiator to drop; while the level in the plastic reservoir bottle may look good. So it is ESSENTIAL to check the level directly in the radiator (by removing the radiator cap while the engine is cool) whenever the engine begins to run above the normal temperature, or pings. The radiator should be filled to the very top of the filler neck. When adding coolant, be sure to mix the pure coolant from the bottle with equal quantities of distilled water, before pouring it into the cooling system. Adding water to coolant is necessary in order for the coolant to transfer heat efficiently. Using 100% pure coolant will make the engine run hot.
There is also a third type of similar noise, called piston slap, which is loudest when the motor has not warmed up to normal operating temperature, and often goes away or is greatly reduced after the motor warms up fully. Piston slap is loudest when driving at a steady speed or accelerating slightly. It usually cannot be heard when the car is slowing down. Piston slap in Toyotas is often heard when using very light viscosity energy conserving motor oil (typically 5W-20 or 5W-30). These oil grades were mandated by the US government, because they theoretically increase fuel economy (by less than 1 mile per gallon). But the legislators who pushed that law through were not aware of the fact that some engine designs (namely Mazda rotarys and Toyota) experience adverse wear and noise when using such lightweight oil. New car dealerships in the US who install anything but energy conserving oils are liable to be legally prosecuted; but this law does not apply to independent garages or people who change their own oil. The best oil for reducing piston slap is Mobil 1 full synthetic (but only in 0W-40 grade). 0W-40 is a European oil formula; which was developed for Porsche and Mercedes. Any store that sells Mobil 1 oil can order it in 0W-40, if they don't already carry that viscosity.
Put a tank full of the 'good stuff' in her and see if it goes away. (also, as zaken DID say, be damn sure your oil has been changed recently AND is topped up). The Camry should not NEED to run on midgrade....and definitely NOT high test...but maybe you're just buying crap gas and you need to put Sunoco or Shell....or some other NAME BRAND unleaded in it....instead of Jimmy Johnson's cheap-[non-permissible content removed] gas!!
Good luck;
Mike
I will try the higher grade gas .. hope that the higher grade gas will work
In answer to another question you asked; a downshift flare is an excessive increase in engine speed when the automatic transmission downshifts to a lower gear (this typically happens when you floor the accelerator to pass someone).
I find your posting on gasoline very interesting. I own a 2007 V6 XLE Camry with 59,000 + miles. Since it was new, I have used 87 octane / no-name fuel, and I get 30+ mpg on the highway. (I also change the oil and filter every 2,500 miles.) Once a month, I put in some "gas treatment" when I fill up with fuel.
Best regards. --------------- Dwayne :shades:
Thanks for the "come back" to my posting. On road trips doing 55 to 60mph I have had this vehicle up to 34mpg on 87 octane / no-name fuel. When I am in Pennsylvania, I purchase 87 octane "Sheetz Gasoline!" I have no idea who supplies the fuel to this vendor. I change my oil and filter every 2,500 at the dealer, and my dealer recommends an oil additive BG / MOA. I have used this additive in the oil since the vehicle had it's first oil and filter change. My Camry has a 6 speed automatic transmission. I have had no issues with this vehicle. It was manufactured in Japan!
Best regards. ---------- Dwayne :shades:
I am on my second set of "original equipment Michelin Tires." --- I got 50,000 miles out of the first set, and I had the selling dealer intall four new tires and perform a four wheel alignment. ---- I like to keep everything original equipment. By purchasing tires from the dealer, I can get tire service from any Toyota dealer while on the road! This is important to me since I do over the road trips!
Best regards. ----------------- Dwayne :shades:
I soon as I started to read about this oil line problem, I had my line replaced under the extended 100,000 mile warranty! ------ It took about four hours to replace it with a steel line! ------ I had to be "professionally insistent" to get the dealer to replace this part prior to it failing. ------ Once I told them that I "did not want to experience this oil line failure while on the road," ----- they agreed to replace this oil line!
Best regards. ------------ Dwayne :shades:
At the present time I have two (2) primary vehicles. ---- A 2007 V6 Camry XLE, and a 2010 - 4 Cyl Malibu LTZ. ---- I have all of my service performed at the "selling dealer," (which is the reason why I am VERY CAREFUL about choosing the dealer), when I make a vehicle purchase. ---- I keep "outstanding service records" on both vehicles, and the dealer is aware of this fact. ---- My service intervals for each vehicle is "HALF" of what is recommended by the manufacturer. (Example: ---- My vehicles are serviced every 2,500 miles.) ---- When making a service appointment, I keep my "sales person" involved in the process. He / she has a vested interest in the quality of service that I receive, "IF" they want to sell me another vehicle. ----- If I give them all of my service business, I expect outstanding service, and outstanding customer relations, by both the service department and the sales department. ------- I treat the service personal in both dealers in a very professional manner, and in return, I receive very professional service. ----- (I send "hand written thank you notes" after the service has been completed, ---- I leave a "small cash tip" for the service technician, ---- and I give a "bottle of cheer" to my service writer, service manager and sales person at the "Holiday Season!") ---- If you want to be treated as a professional, be seen as a professional person. (Treat everyone with respect, and show your appreciation when service is provided.) ---- I am proud to say that I have two outstanding dealers, and I would purchase another vehicle from them without question. ----- My Camry has been trouble free in terms of malfunctions. The Malibu is a "HOME RUN" for GM and Chevrolet. Prior to purchasing the Camry, I owned a 2003 4 Cylinder Honda Accord. This Malibu drives exactly like the Honda Accord. It is a quality vehicle.
Best regards. --------------Dwayne
This is my first DIY brake job. I went to auto parts store and pick up Wagner Thermoquiet Rear Pads sets (QC1212 - after rebate is about $40) . With a friend's help, we took the rear tires out 1 at a time, open the brake fluid reservoir, remove the caliper, replace the pad with the Wagner pads. The whole job was done less than 30 minutes. We did not bleed the brake when I compress the caliper pistons back. Not sure if this is a good idea. The pads had an uneven wear, both inner pads (by the caliper piston) are less than 10% left while the outer pads still looks normal. I took it for a test drive and I can't tell the difference. The car still drives smooth. Anyway, I'll check it again at 50K miles.
This is weird that there were uneven wear on the rear brake pads. Just curious if anybody experience the same problem.
The reason the pads wear like that, is that the piston itself is on the inside, and when you apply the brake that inside pad is the first pad that contacts the spinning rotor. As you press harder, the caliper yoke (my term) is pulled over, bringing the outside pad into contact with the rotor as well. So the inside pad always touches first, and has the most pressure on it.
I'm not as happy on this 2007 camry as my previous 87 camry. 87 camry is built solid and drives like new for 10 yrs. This 2007 model no longer drives like new. It hard to stay loyal to Toyota on these problems.
You are correct with your assessment about the "feel and ride" of the Camry as it ages! -------- While I do not have any mechanical issues with this vehicle, it does not have the "solid feel of my new 2010 Chevrolet Malibu or my former 2003 Honda Accord." ---------- [It is VERY powerful, especially "off the line!" ------- I would like to race a Ford Mustang coming out of a "toll booth on the Garden State Parkway", just to see how it could perform against some competition.] ------------ {Years ago, I had a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a big V8 under the hood. One Saturday morning I was driving on the GSP coming our of a toll booth, and there was a Ford Mustang in the next booth, so we decided "to go for it!" The Mustang driver was VERY SURPRISED of the power and torque of a big chrysler V8. I stayed right with him till I broke it off at 75mph!} ------- (My jeep only got 15mpg on the highway!)
BACK TO THE CAMRY!
You are correct in your observation that the Camry DOES NOT drive like a luxury vehicle! ------ The doors do not close "solid" like a luxury vehicle. ------ (The doors too seem light.) ----- As the vehicle ages, it starts to feel like a "big floating boat." ----- I have the "top of the line Camry," --- (V6-XLE), ---- but it DOES NOT feel like an "expensive / quality vehicle." ---- (It does not feel like a Cadillac!) ----- The appointments on the interior could be more "luxurious," and the seating could be raised up, (IN TERMS OF QUALITY), to a higher level of quality! ---- (There needs to be more padding in the seat cushion. This condition becomes very noticeable as the vehicle ages. I have designed a foam cushion for the two front seats, and covered these cushions with a gray towel material. This gives me a softer ride, and I am NOT sitting in a hole! ---- I gives me better visibility and and more comfort on long drives.)
QUESTION:
Do I like the vehicle?
ANSWER:
I have owned & driven this vehicle for 59,000 + miles, and I have no complaints in terms of mechanical quality. It has never left me at the side of the road. ---- I have an "outstanding dealer," and the service is VERY professional. (Here again, you as the customer, set the stage for how you want to be treated. Act in a professional manner, take control of the service situation, and you will be treated as a professional, not like "one of the herd of cattle seeking service!") ----- If you compare this vehicle, (in terms of comfort), against a Ford Fusion, or the Mercury Milan or the Lincoln, the Ford products, (in terms of seating), are more comfortable, and feel more luxurious!
Best regards to all. ------------ Dwayne :shades:
Has anyone investigated the possibility that a Lexus seat might bolt right in? Surely with the reputation that Lexus has to protect, their seats would be much more comfortable!?!?
Anyone?
Michael
Here is the important question: ----- Why does the leather seat have to be so hard? ----- If you every had the opportunity to sit in vehicles of the 50's, 60's & 70's those leather seats were "soft" and "well padded." ----- When I had the 2003 Honda Accord, I lived in the chiropractic office, ---- because the wings of the bucket front seats would hit my rib cage before my spine touched the back of the seat. ---- Many seats on foreign cars are not made for the American Driver, and this is especially true of vehicles made in Japan. ----- The Lexus seat is more comfortable than the seat in the Camry, but I would bet that they cannot be switched. -----
Best regards. ------------ Dwayne
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Since everyone seems to be complaining about the "comfort" and "quality" of the seats on new vehicles, why are the manufacturers continuing to make seats that only a 21 year old finds comfortable? -------- Most expensive vehicles are purchased by people who have established themselves financially, but these people may have age related issues that make sitting a major issue for a long period of time. ------- I am not driving a Honda Accord today because the back of the front bucket seat does not support my spine properly, since the back of the seat is to narrow, and it catches my rib cage before my back hits the back of the seat.----- {I really like the Honda Accord!} ---------- (I purchased the 2007 Camry because it was the "lessor of the two evils." I could fit comfortably in the bucket seat, but I had to give up the handling of the Accord.) ---- My 2010 Chevrolet Malibu LTZ is much more comfortable than the 2010 Honda Accord.
American buyers need bigger seats that are padded in appropriate areas. (This is especially important for the older driver!) ------- I would hope that the manufacturers would read these message boards, because some of these suggestion are important to potential buyers.
Best regards. ----------------- Dwayne
The good news is that more and more manufacturers ARE paying attention to what consumers are saying on message boards just like these. For example, if you visit any of our GM vehicle discussions, you might run into Mariah, who is a customer service representative fairly newly assigned to monitor discussions and respond to consumer concerns. Manufacturers may be a little behind on this, but they are no longer discounting the opinions made on various forums. Hopefully Toyota will be one of these!
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The second type of rust is called rusting out. It is found deep in joints, seams, and in other structural elements. This type of rust can weaken parts and eventually cause them to break. So that is the only kind of rust which is covered under vehicle warranties.
It sounds like the people you spoke with at the dealership are telling you the truth.
I'm witting today to let people know I had an engine warning light come on last weekend which also included mt VSC and traction light. I took it to Auto zone to have the code read which they do at no charge compared to Toyota which wanted to charge $110 to hook it up on it's computer.
After confirming I had a bad ignition coil I bought a replacement for $85 from Toyota and replaced it myself. The front coils are easy to get at compared to the back. I was fortunate to have my bad on in the front. It took me 2 minutes to change it, One bolt and one plug. Toyota wanted $300 for the whole job.
That being said my car has much better pick up and doesn't seem to hesitate anymore.
IS it possible that this coil has been defective from day one and now has finally showed up on the computer as this coil worsen.
I'm still test driving the car as I have only got to drive short distances to work and back but it feels like day and night. I'm also hoping my MPG's get better which has always been a problem with this car.
Unfortunately The coil is only covered under the 3 year 36,000 warranty.
Feel free to offer any of your thoughts or use the for your own experience's
My Camry