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2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs

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Comments

  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    How do you know, decide, which additives have a positive effect/result, vs NEGATIVE, or even neutral...?

    "...alcohol is a cleaner, not a lubricant.."

    I have often used gasoline as a "cleaner", even better than alcohol, does that mean I shouldn't be fueling my cars with same....?
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    By a cleaner, I mean that the fuel is "DRY" in that it lacks a lubricant, like the old fuel that had lead! ----- Without a "lubricant, " carbon will stick to the underside of valves and in the grooves of the pistons. ----- Without a "lubricant" valve seats will be eaten away. ---- Gasoline is used to cool the "in tank fuel pump," and a lubricant in the gasoline will help to lubricate that pump! ----- When you run the tank low on fuel, you damage the pump. ---- A pump should last 100,000 miles. DO NOT use gasoline as a cleaner. TOO dangerous! ---- Best regards. ----Dwayne :shades:
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    Hi Dwayne;

    As you've probably noticed, I share your appreciation for intelligently selected additives, but I did want to add a few comments about alcohol, carboned ring grooves, and high temperature sludge.

    Although alcohol does not have the self lubricating qualities of gasoline, and when added to gasoline, does undesirable things to fuel economy; it also offers several redeeming virtues. One is that it adds oxygen to the combustion, which causes blended fuels to burn cleaner than straight gasoline. The oxygenation reduces carbon monoxide emissions, and ALSO REDUCES THE AMOUNT OF CARBON DEPOSITS IN THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER. Alcohol used in fuel also acts as a cooling agent; which enables the use of higher compression ratios or greater spark advance without inducing preignition.

    I agree with your observation that carbon deposits are a much greater problem when using oxygenated fuels than they were with the old non-reformulated gasoline; but the additional carbon deposits do not come from the alcohol. Instead; the carbon results from specific additives which are used in fuel as lead substitutes; to protect the valve seats and to provide additional lubrication. The phenomenon of spark plugs coming out all black with carbon appeared shortly after unleaded fuel came into regular use in the late 1970s; long before alcohol was being added to fuel. Although I deplore the widespread use of alcohol as an oxygenating agent; I am at least happy that the industry acknowledged the health danger of the MTBE which was promoted by Chevron as an alternative oxygenating agent. So I think it is important to not give alcohol a bad rap for something it doesn't really do. I much prefer to lose 10% fuel economy than to be exposed to yet another carcinogen. (Of course; alcohol is also a carcinogen; but it is apparently less of one).

    The sludge which has become an engine problem in the last ten years is quite the opposite of the sludge which used to be found in engines of the 1950s that were using non-detergent oil; or the sludge found in more recent engines which never had their oil changed. These older types of sludge were formed as a result of engines that were rarely driven far enough to thoroughly warm up the oil and boil off the contaminants; but with the use of detergent oil, these contaminants are normally trapped by and suspended in the oil, and then periodically removed by regular oil changes and filter replacements.

    But the late model sludge is called "high temperature sludge." This sludge is created when engine oil comes in direct contact with very hot objects. The cooling systems in late model engines have been redesigned to decrease the amount of heat lost to the radiator; in order to speed the warm up process and to improve vaporization of the incoming fuel mixture (in order to further reduce emissions and increase fuel economy). In some engines; this has resulted in local hot spots in cylinder heads; where the lubricating oil is exposed to higher temperatures than it previously encountered. And this hot contact can cook the oil and generate sludge from the oil breakdown. The solution for this problem has been for engineers to again redesign the cylinder heads; to eliminate the hot spots and even out the temperature. But those of us who own vehicles produced during the learning curve have an ongoing problem with high temperature sludge. Hey; ain't that a great motivating force to move people to buy newer models?
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Good Morning zaken1:

    YOUR POSTING WAS OUTSTANDING! ------ Kindly be advised that I was not trying to to blame the carbon on the alcohol! ------ I was just trying to give some reason why using HIGH QUALITY additives could be beneficial to both the performance and the longevity of the automotive engine.

    Every Sunday I make it a point to check all the fluids on both vehicles in preparation for the week's activities. The Camry now has 63, 100+ miles and when I pulled the dip stick to check the oil, the oil film on the stick is as clean as the first day that I took delivery of the vehicle in January of 2007. ----- This is the way it should be on any vehicle, but I would doubt that it would be in that state, if I changed my oil and filter every 5,000 miles, as suggested by the manufacturer. ------ When I owned the 2003 4 cylinder Honda Accord, the recommended oil and filter change was every 10,000 miles, but the recommended interval by the dealer was 3,750 miles. (What does the dealer know about "real world usage" that the manufacturer does not know?) ------ (I would love to pull the dip stick of an Accord that has been given 10,000 mile oil and filter service at 63,000+ miles!) ----- As stated in previous posting, when I purchase a vehicle I put 100,000 mile "top of the line manufacturer's extended warranty" from the dealer, and I give the vehicle outstanding service. ----- Once I get to 100,000 miles, I trade the vehicle because I do not want to finance an expensive repair, such as a transmission, but at the same time, I want the vehicle to perform at 100% up to that point!

    Alcohol in the fuel, in the marine industry, is a disaster! ----- Boat owners have problems with plastic / fiberglass tanks dissolving, and this material being carried into the fuel system! ----- There are also engine problems associated with this fuel tank issue. (Some boats have aluminum tanks so this problem does not exist. But on the other side of the issue, water and alcohol in fuel, in an aluminum tank, can cause electrolysis.) ---- In addition, long periods of storage over the winter, due to moisture in the surrounding air, causes "phase separation" in the fuel tank. ----- (The gasoline and the alcohol & water separate.) ----- Additives are poured into the tank, prior to storage, to help to prevent this action from occurring! ----- Outboard Motors are affected more that an inboard engine with regards to the quality of the fuel. ----- Marine fuel suppliers have recognized this problem by developing a fuel know as Valve-tec which is nothing more than additives and a lubricant in the fuel.

    The subject of "oil and filter" service will be a debate for as long as automobiles are on this earth. Everyone has an opinion about the "best oil," service intervals, and every manufacturer has their own personal recommendations. ----- But there is a bottom line to the entire process. 1.) The owner needs to give their vehicle high quality service to keep it running at peak efficiency during the period of ownership, ----- 2.) The owner needs to protect their investment in terms of the original and the extended warranty, ----- 3.) The owner needs to recognize that the manufacturer is going to look for any reason not to honor their warranty "if" they can prove owner abuse. ---- (If the owner of the vehicle changes the engine oil at 5,000 mile intervals, as recommended by the manufacturer, and the engine develops sludge, the manufacturer is going to blame the owner of the vehicle for neglect, and as such, they will not honor the extended warranty.) ------ When this happens, the owner of the vehicle is responsible for the cost of the repairs. The cost of an engine this could range from $5,000.00 to $10,000 dollars. An oil and filter change costs me $40.00 at the dealer with the BG additive. Let's assume that a replacement engine for the Camry would be about $7,500.000 dollars. If I change my oil and filter every 2,500 miles in 63,000 miles, I have changed my oil about 25 times at a cost of $1000.00 dollars. (In 100,000 miles it will have cost me $1,600.00 dollars.) This maintenance keeps my engine clean and keeps my warranty in good standing! ------- I guess it is a personal thing! ------- Best regards to all. ------- Dwayne
  • canccanc Member Posts: 715
    This is a very informative post; thank you. So, I'm assuming that the Camry is a "late model engine which has been redesigned (...)". I noticed that the warm-up process for my Camry, even though I'm in Canada where the cold winters can be brutal on some days, my car heats up in NO time. Where a car would take about 5 minutes of driving to warm up, mine does it in 2. I often drive less than a mile for it to reach the halfway mark on my temp gauge.

    So when did this learning curve end exactly, or is it still going on?
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Hi Canc:

    I know many people on this board are going to disagree with me, but on "cold winter mornings," I start my vehicle, and let it warm up while I remove the ice from the windows. ---- I have decided a long time ago, that I would not drive a vehicle in the cold weather, until I get some heat from the heating system. ---- Since I have a six speed automatic transmission, and I can operated it in the manual mode, I only allow it to shift to the 3rd gear while driving on the city streets. ----- Once the engine temperature reaches "normal operating temperature" I place the transmission selector into full automatic, and enter the highway! ----- This works for me! ----- Best regards. ------ Dwayne.
  • tribibiantribibian Member Posts: 3
    wwwest:

    Re: Dealer Discontinuing BG Service for Toyotas

    My indicating that GoodYear continues to offer BG SERVICE for ALL makes of vehicles goes to support the probability that BG servicing may, in fact, still be considered for maintaining longevity of the vehicle; my statement should not be construed as a contradiction of the Dealers' inability to offer this service.

    I am simply requesting Forum members to share their knowledge, or experience, towards commenting on the use, or non-use, of the BG System as administered by Toyota Dealerships; it would be helpful, here, if Readers not utilize my observation, that GoodYear continues to offer BG Service, to preclude them from providing useful responses to my initial inquiry.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Goodyear, or Firestone will sell/HYPE ANYTHING that has a hefty profit margin.

    Most worthless, "snake oil" type products do.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    I believe the learning curve ended recently for a few proactive manufacturers; and it is still going on for others. Please do not ask me to specify which companies have completed their education. I am not privy to that level of detail.
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    edited March 2011
    Hi All: --------------------- Both my Chevrolet & Toyota dealer use and recommend the complete line of BG products. ----- I have used the BG / MOA oil additive at every oil and filter change since the Camry was new, and it now has 63,300+ miles. ------- My engine is quiet, smooth, powerful and sludge free. ---- It does not use "oil" between oil and filter changes every 2,500 miles. (Some engines on these boards use oil every 1,000 miles!) ----- I think BG makes some quality products, but the choice of whether or not to use them in your vehicle is up to you, --- as the owner. --- You have to make an individual choice! ----- (I have only used the oil and fuel additives. -------- I use the fuel additive every 5,000 miles.) The oil on the dip stick is as clean today as when I took delivery of the vehicle. The dealers do not force me to use these additives. It is my choice! The decisions is yours! ----------- NOTE: ------ I have started to use the BG/MOA in the oil of the Chevrolet Malibu. I am planning to use this additive at the recommended 5,000 mile oil change intervals. (5,000 - 10,000 - 15000- 2000 - etc) ---- At the 2,500 mile oil and filter changes, "in-between", I will just use the recommended oil.

    Best regards. ------------ Dwayne :shades: ;)
  • kenkat1kenkat1 Member Posts: 1
    Hello to all ; I am new to edmunds forum. I am desperate to resolve the oil use prob w/07 Camry 2.4. We bought it new and chg oil faithfully every 3000 miles. It has incremently increased its oil consunption to 1.2 qts in 2300 mls and the car has only 41700 mls on it! Canc; I am totally w/you I will never buy another Toy if they don't fix this one. kenkat1
  • sumnercsumnerc Member Posts: 12
    use of BG/MOA is only for cars using regular oil, never synthtic like mobil 1.
    Different cars consume oil no matter what anywhere fron 1 quart for each 1,500-2300 miles this is normal.
  • canccanc Member Posts: 715
    Hi Kenkat1,

    Sadly, I've done quite a bit of research on this topic and we are far from being alone. I'm also concerned that as the car gets older, the oil consumption will increase. I have to rack up about 3000 kms. now before my dealer sends the results to Toyota; has your dealership offered to do anything about your case?
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    One of the less commonly understood details about oil burning is that it can be caused by using an improper driving technique during the break-in period (up to 1,000 miles). Some owners still follow the old, outdated practice of being as easy as possible on the motor during the first 1,000 miles. Sixty or more years ago, this was good practice; as motor oils were not as good as they now are, and piston rings were not as durable as they now are, so avoiding excess heat and load was appropriate.

    However; this has all changed over the years: Todays motors are very precisely machined, motor oil now contains very effective anti wear additives, and the use of hard chromed piston rings has become standardized. These rings are so tough that they need extra loading during break in; so they can wear in to match the finish of the cylinder wall.

    It is still good practice to avoid heavy loads during break in; in order to allow the sliding parts to loosen up gradually; but at the same time; it is necessary to periodically put enough extra pressure on the piston rings for them to seat properly. If this is not done; an engine can become an oil burner.

    Here's the proven, time tested technique I use to break in a new motor. Always drive gently until the engine oil has reached normal operating temperature (usually after 5 or more miles of driving). Then, spaced out during the first 150 miles; do ten brisk accelerations from 35 to 55 mph. I usually begin these runs when the motor has about 25 miles on it, and start out by using about 1/2 throttle, but progressively increase the amount of throttle, until using about 3/4 throttle by the time the motor has 150 miles on it. Besides the ten acceleration runs, I do not otherwise drive aggressively; BUT I ALSO DO NOT USE CRUISE CONTROL DURING THE BREAK IN PERIOD. It is important to vary the speed by at least 10 mph frequently; in order to allow the engine to operate under a wider range of loads, and occasionally to permit extra oil to be drawn into the cylinder during decelleration. This practice is not appreciated by other drivers on the road; but it sure makes a difference in the way the motor runs during its subsequent lifetime.

    Another important tip is to carry in the car a quart of the same brand and weight of oil that was originally put in the motor. That way, you won't be forced to add a different brand of oil if it needs a quart during the break in (or at any other time).

    New motors cannot use most brands of synthetic oil during break in. The reason for this is that synthetic oil is so slippery and has such high wear resistance that it will prevent the piston rings from seating if used during the first 5,000 miles. Mobil 1 is the only synthetic that can safely be used during break in.

    I also would not tow a trailer, drive at speeds over 60 mph, or climb a long, steep uphill grade (especially not in hot weather) for at least the first 500 miles.
  • ledzepplinledzepplin Member Posts: 41
    Here is my experience with 2007 4cyl. Toyota used a rubber connector for the oil line and eventually it disintegrates as any high school kid can tell you. Mine failed and drained all the oil out of the car. Luckily or not (depending on how you look at it) I was alerted by the engine noise and it was fixed ($700). Keep an eye on any oil on your driveway as it may start slow as ours did and then all of a sudden rupture. A toyota mechanic told me that Toyota had tried 3 fixes for this problem. This may not turn out to be a problem for you but I thought I would mention it. Good luck.
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Good Morning Ledzepplin:

    Kindly be advised that the Toyota Fix for this problem is to replace the "flexible oil line" with a "steel line!" ------- I had this done by the Toyota Dealer under the Extended Warranty, when I read about this problem on this site! --- My vehicle, (2007 V6 XLE), had not yet showed signs of leakage, but I wanted it replaced since I spend many hours on the road, --- and I DID NOT want to experience this failure! ---- (I had to "politely push" them to take this action, but when I used "professional logic" they agreed!) ----- This should have been a "call back on the part of Toyota!" ---- The process of replacing the line took about four hours!

    Best regards. ----------------- Dwayne :shades: ;)
  • 3toyowner3toyowner Member Posts: 4
    I am curious to know if you have had to replace a 2nd or 3rd ignition coil yet...as I've just had my 2nd one replaced...probably about a month after the 1st one went bad. I am pretty upset about it... as my 2007 Camry LE only has about 40k and my husband is threatening to now trade it in. I currently own 3 Toyota's and my previous Camry lasted a very long time so I bought another. I am very concerned that the quality may be slipping. Let me know how yours is doing as I am curious if this is an issue with the cars we purchased or just a fluke. (I am hoping) Thx
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    HI, so far I have not had to replace another coil. DO you have a 4 or 6 cylinder. I have a v-6. I think it is unusual for these coils to go bad on any car with low mileage. I am not happy about at all and I too believe the Toyota quality has slipped big time. I was able to replace the coil myself . The part cost me $90 The front coils are a 5 minute job though Toyota wanted $300 for parts and labor.

    I would also let Toyota know about your problem. Maybe they will have a recall one day.

    Keep me updated, thanks
  • djm2djm2 Member Posts: 712
    Hi All:
    I have never replaced a coil, (or any electronic device), on my 07 V6 XLE Camry, and this vehicle now has almost 64,000 miles. ------ Outside of the "oil line," my vehicle has been "trouble free" since I took delivery, and this line was replaced BEFORE it stated to leak! --------- (Maybe I was just lucky!) ----- I think the Camry is a high quality product.

    Best regards. ---------- Dwayne ;)
  • annacamry07annacamry07 Member Posts: 1
    I am having that problem now with my 07 Toyota Camry....have already replaced 2 of the ignition coils AND all spark plugs....what was your "fix" after all said and done? :-(

    Anna
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    Hi, Can anyone tell me how much distance is normal between the rear tire and the struts. The round plate or spring that is over the tire has only a half inch between the tire and plate. The fronts have more space. Are my struts worn out?

    I have 48,000 miles on 2007 v-6 SE Camry
    Thanks for any help, chuck
  • jomarexjomarex Member Posts: 3
    I took it to the mechanic before it got hot enough to need the A/C. He says it has a full charge of refrigerant, and it never quit blowing really cold the whole time he burned up a lot of gas, idling it to see if it would quit.

    Last year, it would blow hot intermittently; now, it only blows cold for a minute or two after I start the cold engine, and blows hot the rest of the day while I keep driving around. It appears that if I let the engine cool down enough, then it will blow cold for a minute, then hot. It's only been hot outside the last couple of days, though.

    I have fixed a lot of things on cars, but know nothing at all about A/C...

    any ideas for me?
    thanks
  • jomarexjomarex Member Posts: 3
    well, I guess I posted under a different topic. I can't make any sense of this forum, can't figure out how to make a post...
  • tribibiantribibian Member Posts: 3
    DJM:

    First, I appreciate your (detailed) response to my initial question to the Forum regarding Toyota's use of BG Service. It appears though, that the earlier (on-going) discussions on oil additives have somewhat distorted my original question. I will now endeavor to clarify that request for the Forum:

    The BG Service I am referring to is NOT an oil additive; the BG servicing kit, and product, consists mostly of two (2) canisters. The BG SERVICE is administered by a trained technician and is applied to 1.) The automatic transmission, 2.) The Cooling System, 3.) The Hydraulic Brake System, 4.) The Power Steering System; the product is introduced into a pumping and evacuation machine and, under careful supervision, evacuates the existing fluid while introducing, under pressure, the new BG fluid along with the appropriate conditioners, anti-corrosive components, and the like, depending on the system being serviced. A Sight-Gauge and Pressure Indicator in PSI is monitored by the technician during this operation.

    I've already had both the cooling system and trans serviced on my Mazda
    Tribute using the BG System and product. I am now questioning the Forum to determine if other members have encountered any Toyota Dealerships stating that they (the Dealership) no longer offer this (BG) SERVICE.

    Hopefully, this new discussion has served to clarify my original question. Again, I look forward to any further input from the Forum.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    Hey; it's OK. You didn't post under a different topic; you posted in this thread. The confusing thing about this forum is that it often places new posts on the page that comes after the one that was visible when you originally posted the message; so if you go back to the page where you started; it may look like your post is not there. If you are trying to find a post that you made within the last week; the easiest thing to do is to start at the last page in the forum you're using; and search all the posts on that page. If the post is not on that page; try looking through the page before that one. The list of all the page numbers in a given forum will appear at the top of each page.

    You can start a new message by clicking the "post new message" button at the top of the page; or you can reply to an existing message by clicking the "reply" button on the top right of that message. And you can navigate back from a reply to the original message by clicking the link on the line that begins with "replying to" which is located just below the date and time of the original message.
  • poonerpooner Member Posts: 5
    edited April 2011
    I just noticed the a/c on my 2007 V6 LE won't cool. The light on the dash comes on but there is no sign of compressor activity.The relay seems to work when tested on the bench but there doesn't seem to be power heading to the relay from the controls. Also, when I bypass the relay, the compressor clicks but doesn't sound like it is starting. I'm thinking possible freon leak or possibly seized compressor. All of which sounds pricey for a 4 yr old car from Toyota. Anybody have experience with this? Thanks.
  • ctlctl Member Posts: 129
    This can happen when the cabin air filter gets too dirty...
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I can't pull out the service manuals since I'm travelling , but I would suspect low freon pressure.

    Many A/C systems have a freon pressure switch as part of the system, and if you don't have enough pressure then the compressor is prevented from turning on. Theory being, the freon has oil in it, and if there isn't enough freon....then there is not enough oil for the compressor, and this prevents compressor damage.
  • luckysevenluckyseven Member Posts: 134
    Low freon pressure means a leak. Unfortunately leaky AC is something that most DIYers including myself can't handle properly. Check for AC electrical and control problem and go to see a mechanic. Even small piece of flying road debris can make pretty impressive damage to evaporator and your pocket.
  • 3toyowner3toyowner Member Posts: 4
    Ok so now it's about a month later and guess what...another coil error. It is a 6 cylinder and this is replacement number 3. Something must be causing this to happen...I just can't believe that they are all going bad one at a time within a month of one another. Someone must have some insight. Please give me some suggestions...I don't want to get another car but I can't afford to keep taking it in for the same problem. Could there be a short somewhere? I don't know what to do next. Is it worth paying extra to have the last three replaced while the have the manifold off to replace this one? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    Can you have sombody reset the codes. Sometimes Auto zone can be talked in to it. I was wondering do you have a remote start. I'm wondering if you try to start the car by mistake while the car is running it might cause a electrical surge to the coils.
    When my coil went bad it was right after I made that starting mistake though I was told by many that should not have been the problem.
    I hope others can this sight can help.
    I also think Toyota is using less than quality parts these days.
    Good luck
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Who is diagnosing this problem, and what error codes are you getting? It would be very unusual to have all these coils going out.

    I've found that random misfire across multiple cylinders, could be fuel delivery or one of the many sensors (like crank). A solid error code on only one cylinder, would suspect either the coil or plug in that cylinder.
  • 3toyowner3toyowner Member Posts: 4
    No I don't have a remote start so that isn't it. I am at a loss...any other suggestions? Anyone?
  • 3toyowner3toyowner Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the input we will see what the outcome is in a few days...as back to the dealership I go. I like having suggestions to give them when I go in so they can have something to go on and try to fix the real cause of this problem instead of just replacing parts one by one.
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    Any new info on the ignition coils
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    Has anyone has a problem with engine squeaking while car is idling. My 2007 Camry v-6 has a squeak coming from the belt pully area which is also near the water pump and alternator.How can I tell where it is coming from. I hope it;s not anything more than a dried up belt but it sounds more like a pully.
    Thanks for any help.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    With the engine off, take the accessory belt off.

    Start the engine temporarily and confirm that the squeak stopped (ie, it's not a bearing inside the engine). Turn engine back off.

    Now turn each pulley slowly by hand, and try to wiggle it as well. You can feel for smooth bearing movement, and no wobble side to side. I've done this on all of my vehicles over the years, and I can always easily feel the device who's bearing has gone bad. Many times it's the belt tensioner pulley, but I've had an alternator on one vehicle, and a A/C compressor on another vehicle.

    When you find the bad accessory, replace it. Put the belt back on, and you're good to go.

    You can search the internet and find video's as to how to take accessory belts on and off. It's usually by putting a wrench or large screwdriver on the belt tensioner, slowly take the tension off the belt, take the belt off one of the pulleys, then slowly release the pressure on the tensioner. Reverse the process to put belt back on. All vehicles have a belt routing graphic somewhere under the hood.
  • litlladylitllady Member Posts: 1
    I would like to note after searching online for the same issue I ended up here at this forum.

    We have a Toyota Camry 2007 le with about 40,000 miles on it and replaced our first coil about a week ago. Already, another coil is going bad. We are too upset about this and are looking for answers. Literally, a mechanic at the Toyota place told us that the coils are a defective design, in HIS OPINION. He said he is replacing them all the time. I guess a letter to Toyota is the next step? I dont know alot about cars but Im missing the ol 'change a spark plug' fix.

    Will be watching this thread.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    It might be helpful to know that there are two separate warranties on this car. The regular manufacturer's 3 year, 36 000 mile warranty has obviously expired by now; but there is also a Federally mandated warranty on parts that affect emissions. The ignition coils affect emissions; so they should be covered under the Federal emission compliance warranty. This warranty is good for at least 50,000 miles (depending on the parts covered). If the dealership is not sure or is uncooperative about whether the federal emission warranty covers the coils; You'll need to check with the regional Toyota Customer Service office about this matter. This information can probably also be found on the Toyota website.

    In addition; it is common for a reputable manufacturer to extend the length of their warranty coverage on parts which have become known to fail prematurely. There certainly have been enough ignition coil failures on Camry V-6 motors to justify such a move. But it might require some persuasion by a competent attorney before they decide to act responsibly. All Toyota would have to do in order to determine whether there is an abnormal failure rate on those coils is to pull up the figures on how many of those coils have been sold by dealerships. They already have those figures. The question is only whether they will be willing to look into it.
  • cvalescot1225cvalescot1225 Member Posts: 4
    Hello everyone,

    How can you determine if you're having ignition coil issues? I purchsed my 07 Camry se v6 back in December and sometimes when I'm driving and I come off the gas the engine seems to just die down as if I slammed on the breaks. Anyone know what that could be? Also I noticed when I purchased the car that the oil level was double what it was supposed to be and they told me that was normal. I know enough about cars to know that too much oil in the motor is just as be as not enough. I recentyl got my first oil change after purchasing the car Sunday and this time they filled it up even higher than before. I didn't notice it until Monday and since work 6 days a week I wont be able to make it back there until Sunday. What do u guys think?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Most new cars that have automatics use a coastdown fuel cut technique to enhance FE. during coastdown periods the engine is starved of fuel via EFI shutoff but forced to not stall via compression braking.

    You may have the wrong dipstick (used car) and the oil change is being metered as it is put into the engine rather than the use of the dipstick.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    I hope you were pulling the dipstick out, wiping it off, and putting it back in again; before pulling it out to read the level. This can only be done when the motor is not running. When the motor runs; it will throw oil all over the dipstick; which makes it impossible to read the oil level on the stick until after the motor is shut off and the dipstick is wiped off and inserted and removed one more time. Also; the vehicle must be on level ground when the oil level is checked; or the oil level indication can be grossly inaccurate.

    There are two different level marks on the dipstick. The lower one is the point at where it will take a quart of oil added to bring the oil level up to the upper (full) mark. Some people run a car with the oil level at the low mark; where it is a quart below full. This is potentially damaging to the motor; because the oil temperature will increase significantly and compromise lubrication when there is less than the full amount of oil in the motor.

    Please excuse me if this information is all stuff you already know; I have no idea of how much you know or don't know; and the points you brought up could have come from an improper understanding of basic issues; so I needed to say this.

    The motor in your car takes about 5 quarts of oil to fill it to the "full" line after the oil has all been drained out. After the motor has been filled with fresh oil; the level will look over full before the motor is started and run for the first time; because it will take about 1/2 quart of that oil to fill the oil filter. The oil level will subsequently be about 1/2 quart lower; when it is checked after the first time it runs. The level should be at the "full" mark after the engine has been run and shut off following the first time it is filled.

    The dipstick does not extend all the way to the bottom of the sump; so when the oil level is at the very bottom of the dipstick; it is about 2 quarts low, so there would still be about 3 quarts remaining in the motor at that point.

    If the oil level is more than 1/2 quart above the full mark, when it is checked properly and the car is on level ground; then too much oil has been put into the motor. This can lead to damage to oil seals and gaskets. It can also cause excess oil to be pumped into the combustion chamber; which can foul spark plugs and damage the catalytic converter. Some ignorant employees at oil change places may deliberately put too much oil into an engine; on the belief that it will increase the distance the car can be driven before the motor will need additional oil added. But a motor in good condition will often be able to run the full distance between oil changes without needing oil added. Still, sometimes an engine will consume some oil between changes; so it is always a good practice to check the oil level at least once a month.

    Please also be aware that there are two dipsticks on this car. One is for the engine oil level; and the other is for the automatic transmission fluid level. Sometimes people will check the level on the wrong dipstick. The transmission fluid level on many vehicles will normally read above the full mark when the motor is not running.

    If your car's oil level really is more than 1/2 quart above the full mark; then enough oil should be drained out to bring the level down to the full mark. This is done by unscrewing the ENGINE oil drain plug (NOT the transmission oil drain plug), and letting some oil drain into a catch pan. When it appears that the desired quantity of oil has come out; quickly put the drain plug back in place, tighten it securely, and recheck the oil level by wiping, reinserting, and re-reading the level on the dipstick. THIS PROCEDURE CAN POTENTIALLY LEAD TO MAJOR ENGINE DAMAGE; IF THE SEALING WASHER FALLS OFF THE DRAIN PLUG WHEN IT IS REMOVED AND IT IS NOT NOTICED. IF AN INEXPERIENCED PERSON SCREWS THE DRAIN PLUG BACK INTO THE OIL PAN WHEN IT IS NOT LINED UP STRAIGHT WITH THE PAN THREADS; THIS CAN STRIP THE THREADS IN EITHER THE PAN OR DRAIN PLUG; AND THAT CAN LEAD TO THE DRAIN PLUG FALLING OUT WHILE THE CAR IS GOING DOWN THE ROAD. THIS WILL CAUSE A TOTAL LOSS OF ENGINE OIL; WHICH USUALLY DESTROYS THE MOTOR.

    So please do not attempt to drain oil yourself; if you do not have the experience or proper tools to do it safely. Instead; take it to a gas station or repair shop. If it really is way over full; I would not take it back to the place which changed your oil without making sure the problem will not be repeated. This may require talking to the owner; and advising them that an employee is not following the proper procedure for checking oil level. If the mechanic or the owner gives you any static; contact the local consumer protection agency, bureau of automotive repair, or district attorney; and file a complaint against the shop. A letter to the editor of the local newspaper will sometimes get good results in these situations. If it is a Toyota dealership which did this; by all means contact the regional Toyota Customer Service office. They need to know about this.

    If the coils on your Camry are going bad; the check engine light will come on. There will then be a trouble code stored in the vehicle's computer. This code can be retrieved and read by a shop or parts store that has a code scanner. Auto Zone used to do this for free.

    If your check engine light is not on, the coils are probably good.

    If the engine speed drops suddenly when you let off the gas pedal; but it does not stall; this may be normal. But if it stalls; the engine may be in poor mechanical condition. Having the cylinder compression tested (in ALL the cylinders) and compared to Toyota's minimum allowable specifications for this year and model vehicle (not just some mechanic's guess about that figure) will tell you whether the motor can be tuned properly. If it is in good mechanical condition, it may need new spark plugs, or a new fuel filter, a throttle body cleaning and idle air control valve cleaning; or new oxygen sensors.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    One of the advantages of DBW is that no idle air valve is required.
  • thetxstangthetxstang Member Posts: 28
    What a great, detailed post. Thank you.

    :)
  • canccanc Member Posts: 715
    edited May 2011
    As promised, here's an update on my oil burning situation. I went for my oil change yesterday and the dealership is aware that I'm burning 1 litre of oil (1 quart) of oil every 5000 miles. It's not bad, but it's not great either, and I was then given the ol' line, "Toyota says it's normal", and that, given these results, Toyota wouldn't do anything.

    What bugs me are the following:
    -I'm dumping a litre of oil now, and my car has 45000 miles; what will it be like when it has 100000 miles? Will I be dumping two litres or more?
    -I bought this car mainly for reliability; if the engine is burning oil, will it leave me stranded somewhere?

    I'll be talking to the dealer owner on Monday and see if anything can be done. I'm also wondering if I should contact the district manager as well. I went on the NHTSA site to complain but the site is for US owners (I'm in Canada).

    If the owner won't do anything either, I guess I'll switch my service intervals from 5000 to 3500 miles, which is probably not a bad thing anyway, but I just hate the thought of that, especially when my former car was a 2000 Toyota Corolla, that had 100000 miles when I sold it, and never burned any oil under 5000 mile oil change intervals.

    Wish I had better news to tell you... this may very well be my last Toyota.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    edited March 2010
    40 ounces of oil consumption in 5000 miles should not be considered a problem. But you should make sure the correct dipstick is in your car. Wrong dipstick and the engine may be being overfilled resulting in frothing of the oil due to contact with the crankshaft/components.

    How do you know, what procedure are YOU using, to determine the oil consumption...?

    Additionally if you're having the dealer do the oil changes the oil going into the engine maybe externally metered, dipstick not used. Check the dipstick later and...
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    You know; after reading your most recent post, I finally see what you are so concerned about. And, if you are willing to seriously consider the experience of a career mechanic and diagnostic specialist who has evaluated and serviced thousands of cars since the early 1960's; I can assure you that your concerns are unjustified.

    Your previous experience with the Corolla is actually very unusual. MOST cars consume a measurable amount of oil between changes. The typical normal oil consumption of a car in good mechanical condition varies between a quart of oil every 7500 miles; to a quart every 3000 miles. Well designed Japanese cars which consume oil at this rate usually do not experience increased oil consumption or any other signs of mechanical degradation until they have reached well over 150,000 miles; and often not until 250,000 miles. It is only when a car starts off consuming a quart every 2500 miles or less, that the consumption rate escalates before 100,000 miles. So your engine really is in great shape; especially for a Camry V-6.

    European prestige cars like Jaguars and Mercedes often consume oil at a quart every 1500 to 2500 miles; and nobody even blinks an eye at it. But those motors are designed and constructed differently than yours.

    The rate of oil consumption is greatly affected by engine design; and engine design has recently been heavily influenced by emission control regulations. The V-6 block in the Camry has far more mass and surface area; and consequently more thermal inertia than the smaller inline 4 cylinder Corolla. In order to optimize the Camry V-6's fuel economy and minimize emissions; the recent Camry engine blocks had to be redesigned to warm up more quickly after a cold start. The Corolla did not have this issue; because it has a smaller, thinner, more compact engine block; which is more thermally stable than the V-6 block.

    One consequence of the Camry V-6 block redesign is that the piston to cylinder wall clearance changes far more as the block expands during warm up than the Corolla block does. So the Camry pistons will be relatively looser fitting while the motor is cold; and that leads to somewhat greater oil consumption. In this particular situation; there have been complaints from some Camry owners about audible "piston slap" during warm up. My experience has been that the amount of piston slap is very much related to the lubricating quality of the motor oil being used. There is one particular oil formula which dramatically reduces piston slap and oil consumption. I have seen the results in my own highly modified Chrysler V-8; and in stock Camry V-6s (both of which have relatively loose piston to wall clearances). This oil reduces engine wear and improves performance and fuel economy; by better lubrication and sealing of the pistons and rings. It is produced by Mobil in a full synthetic formula; and is found in ONLY ONE of the many viscosities they sell. This product is Mobil 1 full synthetic in 0W-40 weight. This particular viscosity was originally designed for European high performance engines; namely Porsche, Jaguar, and Mercedes. But it was then found to be far superior to the diluted "energy conserving" oils which are currently sold in the US. So knowledgable car owners are now using it here in all sorts of cars.

    But even if you stay with the oil you now use; as long as you don't change or mix oil brands (which is a surprisingly destructive practice; despite the oil manufacturers' propaganda to the contrary); your Camry will last well over 150,000 miles with no significant increase in oil consumption.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    +1

    Well founded and well stated.
  • canccanc Member Posts: 715
    The oil change is done by the dealer, who then tops it off at the line. They've been meticulous in doing this, and the dipstick is the correct one used.
  • canccanc Member Posts: 715
    Dear Zaken,

    Thank you for your very informative post--I learned a great deal from you taking the time to write your reply. Just FYI, however, I have the 4-cylinder Camry. Does that make any difference? I have noticed that my 4-cyl 2.4 (Camry) warms up much, much faster than my 1.8 L in my Corolla ever did. What do you know about the 2.4L?

    My Corolla did, in fact, burn a bit of oil, but it was within what I'd consider "normal", and normal for me is a quarter of a litre or so within 5000 miles, and not a whole litre.

    I believe the dealership did put 5W-20 back in it as per recommended OEM reqs, but I've been wondering if I should perhaps put some Mobil 1 in there next time, and stick with that; my dealership essentially told me that this wasn't necessary, and that I'd be throwing my money out the window if I did that, but I'm wondering if synthetic oil would provide more protection for my engine than anything else out there. Your thoughts?
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