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2007 Toyota Camry Problems and Repairs

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  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    It is not necessary to remove or disassemble the water pump to evaluate its condition. The critical elements of the pump are the bearings and the seals on the pump shaft. There is a small drain hole on the bottom side of the cylindrical bearing housing that surrounds the pump shaft. If the bearing becomes loose; the shaft will begin to wobble; which will cause the internal seal to leak coolant. This coolant will drip out of the weep hole in the bottom of the bearing housing. So if you see coolant stains around that hole; this means that either the bearing or the seal are failing. That would mean the pump should be replaced. You can also check the bearings by rocking the pump pulley, and feeling for side play. Good bearings will not permit any noticeable side play in the pulley. If you can feel the pulley wobble at all; the pump should be replaced.

    But if there is no side play in the pump shaft, and no sign of leakage from the weep hole; then the leakage you noticed may well have come from seepage at the water pump gasket; which is a cosmetic issue only, and which seems to be common on this motor. Toyota dealerships love to tell people that their water pump needs replacement; and "prove" that by showing them the pink stain alongside the water pump, which came from minor gasket seepage; and which usually does not even result in loss of measurable quantities of coolant.
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    Thanks Zanken, always appreciate your insight. One last question. What is the best way to get a good view of the pump and gasket. From on top or under the car? Thanks
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    It is impractical to try to inspect the pump from underneath the car, as there is a splash shield under the motor which would have to be removed, and many people do not have the proper equipment to safely raise and support the car.

    The simplest way to inspect the pump is from above, using a bright flashlight and an inspection mirror. The cosmetic stains which come from the gasket can be easily seen alongside the pump when looking from above, and don't require using any tools or mirrors.
  • bill344bill344 Member Posts: 2
    Anybody had problems with the transmission on 2007 Camrys? Mine failed completely 1,000 miles over the warranty coverage. I’m aware of a small recall when they first came out.
  • luckysevenluckyseven Member Posts: 134
    is it v6 or i4?
  • bill344bill344 Member Posts: 2
    i4
  • wolfboro2wolfboro2 Member Posts: 4
    I have 2007 Camry CE w/2.4 L , auto tranny @ 41K miles .According to Toyota owner's maintenance schedule (provided by Toyota ) automatic transmission fluid is recommended to be changed at 120K miles for regular use ( 60 K miles if used for towing ) . I would like to hear from forum members on the following items :

    1- 120 K miles seems a bit too long , anyone changed earlier ? anybody waited till 120K and tranny is still functioning fine ?

    2- My manual warns about using any other oil but genuine Toyota ATF WS . At this point I am very hesitant to introduce a different ATF since there will be remaining old oil left in torque converter and/or cooling lines . What is the best "DIY procedure" to drain most of the ATF ? can I start the engine few seconds " in Parking" to drain further ?

    3-Did anyone use an off-the -shelf (non-Toyota) ATF and tranny is running just fine ?

    Thanks for your help in advance .
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Member Posts: 101
    edited August 2011
    Damned if I know........but, my scientific wild [non-permissible content removed] guess tells me that the manual should know. It DOES seem like a helluva long time to wait to change ANYTHING, but you know the old expressions......if it ain't broke, etc.

    I'm thinking there's so little actual friction between opposing parts that there are very few impurities being introduced to the fluid, so it's probably not critical to put new stuff in.

    Personally, I'd wait. (That's what I'm doing with ours; it has 150,000 kliks ......about 90k miles on it.....and still running fine.......that is, no worse than ever. :-)) Ooops, did I say that out loud?

    I'd be curious to see (by a show of hands) what percentage of you have done the engine control module swap out for crappy shifting (you know....TSB # whatever/whatever.....) vs the percentage who haven't.

    Anyone! Anyone?
  • cherann24cherann24 Member Posts: 7
    My car has 117,000 on it and I haven't changed it yet. Plan to at 120,000 as recommended. Just asked about this when I had the oil pan gaskets replaced.
  • heamixssheheamixsshe Member Posts: 1
    Mine does the same. I'm taking my car into the dealership to get it checked out since I'm still covered under the 60k warranty. If I find anything out, I'll let you know.
  • morleybcmorleybc Member Posts: 2
    thanks
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Member Posts: 101
    Has anyone tried to install aftermarket (read: GOOD) speakers under the rear deck of their '07 Camry and run into problems with interference from the trunk lid torsion bar?
    How'd you beat it?
    Thanks,
    Mike
  • harrystambergharrystamberg Member Posts: 1
    Hi All,

    I started hearing squeaking noise around the Serp Belt Tensioner a week ago. I hear it during idling and louder when A/C is on. I took it to my local mechanic. This guy is very good and he is a certified Lexus mechanic.

    He told me that the Serp Belt is the problem. He changed it, but squeaking noise still continued. The mechanic then told me that we need to change the Serp tensioner itself. I changed that too. Still the noise didnt go. He told me to change the Tensioner Pulley. I changed too, but the noise is still there.

    I have already spent around $600 and I have the same issue as it was there before. Mechanic at some point said he is not able to figure out what the issue is.

    I browsed online and could see some complain that it could be water pump or alternator. I dont want spend any more money on getting a new spare part until I know that is the problem. Please advise what should I do next? Do you recommend me to take it to a Toyota dealership? I know that would be costly again for me. But if there is nothing else I can do, I can do it. It is very annoying that even after spending so much, the issue is still not fixed.

    regards
    Harry
  • nmarcel1nmarcel1 Member Posts: 21
    Harry, I had the same issue but I took a chance and changed the water pump.... that fixed the issue... even though it was not leaking, the bearing was shot and that was making the noise... to be honest, I have a 2007 and only had 19k miles and the pump went... that really ticked me off... should have lasted a lot longer then that. I changed the pump myself, took a few hrs but cost was about $65 bucks. Hope this helps.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    edited September 2011
    If your local mechanic is as good and honest as you say; he should at this point be open to negotiating an adjustment for all the money his bad advice cost you. In my 40 year career as an independent mechanic; I never would charge a client for my labor if a job I did was not successful in fixing the problem it addressed. I felt is was bad enough the the customer had to pay for the parts which were used; but it is entirely unfair for a mechanic to make a profit when his diagnosis and advice is wrong. If he is competent; these mistakes will not happen often enough to be a burden on his income; while the honesty and consideration he displays by taking responsibility for his mistakes will be more than compensated for by the increase in good will among his clients. This is a great way for a mechanic to stay motivated to improve his skills. It sounds like your mechanic could have improved his diagnostic skills and saved you a great amount of money and hassle by developing the practice of using an inexpensive stethescope to listen to the suspected parts; rather than guessing about which one is most likely to make the noise. Run that by him and see what he says.
  • 2007camry135k2007camry135k Member Posts: 1
    edited October 2011
    I had the same issue on my 2007 Toyota Camry LE with 135k miles. Mine turned out to be the alternator. When replacing they noticed the waterpump needed to be replaced also so I went ahead and did that. The dealership wanted $1000.00 to do the work. I went ahead and had a fellow mechanic swap out the waterpump and alternator for me. I took it to the dealership because of your missed diagnosis by the mechanic. Thanks for the help on the blog. Mine has been maintence free to 135k. Mine has the original trans fluid which is supposedly good for 150K? Mine does burn a qt of oil between changes but still runs great. My one complaint is the noisy valves probably when the oil is a bit low. Anyone have issues with valves??

    Thanks
    Craig
  • tony108tony108 Member Posts: 16
    Craig,

    Try the pennzoil ultra. I think of all the oils that I tried it is the best in terms of the noise produced by the valves.

    Tony
  • bgiffenbgiffen Member Posts: 1
    I just had this same problem myself. I was driving and saw all three lights (VSC, Traction Control, & Check Engine) come on at the same time. I took the car to Advance Auto to have the code read, but it spit out 15 different codes and the worker said I would probably just need to take it to the dealer because they would be the only ones to figure out what the problem was. So I did. When Toyota dealer called to tell me what the problem was they told me it was a bad ignition coil. It only cost me $230, but I would have rather fixed the problem myself for half the cost. If I had not had them fix it, it would have cost me $100 for the diagnostics.
  • grincherino1grincherino1 Member Posts: 3
    I have and it actually damaged a new speaker... I'm going to attempt to modify the bars using a pipe Bender.. I would love to hear any alternatives...
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Member Posts: 101
    Hey, Grinch.......
    I took my car back to FutureShop and they had another run at installing my speakers properly.

    This time, although I wasn't there to see, based on what I saw in the trunk when I got the car back, I'd say they must have removed the trunk-lid torsion bar and bent it in a vise; it had a distinct "kink" in it which allowed it to take a "detour" around the speaker magnets.

    The bend they put in made it possible for them to drop the speakers all the way down......flush with the rear deck......where they HAVE to be to produce proper base response.

    Let me know if you need pics and I'll arrange to send you a couple.

    Mike
  • grincherino1grincherino1 Member Posts: 3
    Yes please send or post some pics... I installed a 1/2" grommet for the speakers however i am now faced with a distorted set of torsion bars.. i can be reached at grincherino1@Gmail.com
  • grincherino1grincherino1 Member Posts: 3
    Btw new torsion bars run $65 each fyi
  • petrepetre Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I got exactly the same problem to my Camry LE 2007 4 cylinder with 106K miles now, and can't figure out what's up with it. I think is better to keep it like this:)
  • amvivaldiamvivaldi Member Posts: 1
    We have the same issue on a 2007 Camry SE with the V6. I just replaced the second one at 54,000 miles (first one was around 40,000 miles as well). Fortunately, both were on the front bank and only required the expensive part (I wised up and bought the lifetime warranted one at O'Reillys Auto Parts for $85), a 10-mm socket, and a flat blade screwdriver to pry the tab off of the electrical connector. A 3-minute job. I shudder to think what will happen when one of the rear bank ones fails. I will pay someone to dismantle the top of the engine and will probably replace all three (and spark plugs at that time).
  • rajatarorarajatarora Member Posts: 24
    Hello. I am the original owner of a 2007 Camry SE that has about 75K miles on it. In vacuuming the car the other day, I noticed a wet spot underneath the front passenger seat on the base of the car. There is no visible water in from the sides and the outside is dry. There is a AC vent close by and I am wondering if it is related - maybe a clog or something. I have tried to dry it by having a wet towel on the base and the wetness comes and goes. It is not related to rainy weather and I haven't been able to nail it down to having the AC on or off. Has anyone else had this problem ? It is water for sure as it doesn't smell like any other fluid. Cannot detect color, so not sure. Please help.
  • ledzepplinledzepplin Member Posts: 41
    This is just a guess but I had a 89 honda wagon which leaked onto the carpet and I pulled the carpet up around the tranny tunnel and lo and behold there is a rubber exhaust tube for the air conditioner which was plugged. As soon as I unplugged it -no more leak. Yours could be completely different.

    I would check to see if and where there is such a tube or outlet. The dealer, unless he is very strange, will try to rip u blind on something like this.

    In addition, there may be an internal memo on this situation which you can get online. Good luck.
  • rajatarorarajatarora Member Posts: 24
    Hello. The problem is further complicated because I have a bluetooth unit installed underneath the passenger seat and there is no way I can remove the carpet unless I remove the unit. Also, how were you able to unplug the leak ?
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Member Posts: 101
    edited November 2011
    I'm inclined to agree about your reference to "sdearlers" ripping customers blind. It's not so much that they're crooked......it's that they're crooked AND STOOPID.

    Talk to most dealers about a possible TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) relating to a problem you have and they look at you like you're a spy who just broke their secret code for keeping you in the dark about ACTUAL, documented (by the manufacturer) technical defects on your car.

    Keep asking questions (everywhere, including here) before letting your dealer do ANYTHING that'll cost you money.......eventually you'll find the truth........and it'll be cheaper that what the dealer suggests!! Guaranteed!
  • ledzepplinledzepplin Member Posts: 41
    I have a 2007 time-bomb also and when the weather clears up I will look at it to determine where the air cond. drain is. The leak could be coming anywhere under the dash or the part of the carpet that surrounds the tranny. I will also check for toyota diagrams on the net. Hope I can find something to help u. I am curious: just how much water or liquid is leaking? Does it slosh around or is it just damp? I'll be in touch.
  • ledzepplinledzepplin Member Posts: 41
    "SB0141-08R1 APR 09 Body - Water Leaks Onto Headliner/Footwell Area", this maybe what u are looking for. Put this number into google and you might pull it up. Some discussion group members post both TSB's and Service Bulletins.
    Another website that u may find helpful is:http://www.alldatadiy.com/TSB/59/075908aH.html. Let me know if you find a solution. My 2007 " road hazard " has not completely fallen apart and I may need some info on this. Good Holiday.
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    Can anyone shed some light on this. My check engine light came on and had code read at Auto zone which read 2195 ( oxgen or fuel-air sensor) went to local mechanic who I trust and he got same code but said readings on the sensors say they are good. He suggested to go to Toyota dealership and have them read the codes. There is a TSB from 2008 -TSB-0114008 which seems to apply to my car which is a 2007 Camry V-6. The problem I conserned about is the TSB covers the work under warranty in the first 3 years or 36,000. I have complained to Toyota that my car has not been right since day one. Been throuhg all the Trans issues and have always let them know my Gas milage has never been right. After reading more about the TSB they call for new design sensors and to relace the manifold so the new sensors will fit.
    This TSB tells me Toyota was aware of a flaw in these sensors.
    What I'm afraid of is they are going to try to hit me with a huge bill after they tell me I need to replace sensors and intake manifold.

    I have paper work stating that my MPG is not right but they always told me it was normal and driving habits.
    Do you think Toyota will consider the complaints I had in 2007 and 2008 While the car was still under warranty?

    Thanks for your insight, chuck
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    There's no need for you or me to guess about what Toyota might or might not cover: All you need to do to conclusively find out the answer is to contact the regional Toyota Customer Service Center; explain this situation to them, along with providing all relevant details; and ask them whether they will cover this repair. This can be done without bringing your car into the dealership or having them work on it. That way; you'll know in advance whether they'll cover the work or not; and you can decide whether to have it done based on that information.
  • dst630dst630 Member Posts: 1
    take it to a different dealer. What you are discribing is the famous transmission software lag that the 2007 to 2009 camrys have and is covered by recall.
  • notmybmwnotmybmw Member Posts: 101
    Yes......when you take the car in, tell the service guys you need the procedure described in the famous TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) that describes how the ECM (Engine Control Module) should be flashed/reprogrammed so that the car doesn't stall or "freeze" while trying to decide which gear to go into....if any....when you "step on it" in an attempt to get around a left-hand turn before the oncoming traffic T-bones you!!
    If they're on the ball, they'll know about this TSB (it's been around for several years now). If they're morons.....come back here and someone will provide the exact number of the document for you. (Sorry I don't have it onhand....but the dealer SHOULD!)
    Good luck.
    Michael
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    Thank you Zanken for your reply. I spoke with Toyota 1800 line and gave them the details about my car. After hearing my story and putting me on hold for 10 mins they came back saying they can't OK the repair under warranty. The warranty only covered 3 years 36,000 and I was 20,000 miles over that.
    That being said I decided to unplug my battery again to reset the codes. I did this a few day ago and the check engine light would come back on after 20 mins. Tonight I drove it for 45 mins and still no light.
    I notice on first start after connecting battery again is was a rough start and had to turn the key twice. Did I clear some bad Gas or something? Is it possible the sensor was stuck in lean position fixed itself? My mechanic not from Toyota told me that when he checked the car he got the 2195 code but said the sensors on Bank 1 were reading good. He didn't reset the codes because he wanted Toyota to be ablle to read them. I'm nervous about taking the car to Toyota and land up with a huge bill$$$.
    Well, thanks for taking the time to read this and I always appreciate your advice.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    The computer software reflash only takes 20 minutes. So even if you did have to pay for it, you would not have a lot of money out of your pocket. There are no parts that they replace, just a quick software reprogramming.
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    Thank you for your reply. Are you saying I may only need to have the computer reflashed? Is there a TSB on this?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Yes. And there is a TSB for this that takes all of 20 minutes to complete. The TSB # has been posted here and other websites (Toyotanation). Look for something like hesitation - acceleration.
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    Thank you for your reply. I'm not sure the TSB you are refering to applies to my problem. My problem is a check engine light with a code 2195 which indicates a problem with a fuel-air sensor. After disconnecting the battery the check engine light does not come back on until 20-40 minutes of driving. Is it possible the sensor is OK and other factors are contributing to that code 2195? My local mechanic said the sensors showed a good reading and that I would need to take the car to Toyota the figure out the reason for the 2195 reading.
    Thank you for any insight you might have.
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    does anyone have insight on other factors causing this code besides fuel -air ratio sensor? Car still starts and is drivable
  • mike7311mike7311 Member Posts: 3
    edited December 2011
    If you spend a lot of time idling you may have very well overheated the main O2 sensor which will cause an internal short. Go to Auto Zone and get the universal O2 sensor, should be ~$60 or OEM style for ~140. This is more common than you think, but I'm surprised they will not cover this under the emissions warranty which is normally 8/80k.
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    Thanks Mike. Can you be more specific on the main O2 sensor. The check engine light did come on after I was idling for 20 mins or so.
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    I was told the 8/80,000 is in Calif only. 3 yrs here in Illinois. If you have other info. it would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks chuck
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Your warranty guide that comes with the owner's manual will tell you that emisions warranty is 8 years, 80k miles. It is a federal law, all states.
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    i was informed that Toyota will not cover this sensor
    if you have other info please share. The . This info came from Toyota Hot line
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    May not be part of the emissions then.
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    Hi Zaken, would you be able to confirm where the fuel/ratio Bank 1 Sensor 1 is on the Toyota v-6 3.5 engines. I have gotten conflicting information of the location. I was told it is in the front by the radiator and others have said it is by the firewall.

    Still looking for the best affordable way to replace this sensor. If you have any thought it's always appreciated. chuck
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    edited December 2011
    Bank 1 is always the cylinder bank which contains the # 1 cylinder. Some manufacturers; like Ford, number their V-6 and V-8 cylinders so that Cyl # 1 is on the firewall side of a transverse engine. But GM, Chrysler, and Toyota number their V-6 and V-8 cylinders so that Cyl # 1 is on the radiator side of a transverse engine.

    The sensor is probably in or near the exhaust manifold for that bank. It is as easy to change as a spark plug. You'll probably need to buy an oxygen sensor socket; which is a deep socket made with a slot down the side; in order for the sensor cable to fit through the slot; so the socket can be used without cutting the cable for the sensor.

    Here's a link to a photo of this sensor: (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1606680)

    www.rockauto.com sells a Denso air fuel ratio sensor for this model for $109.99 plus shipping. That is about $100 less than all the other brands of air/fuel ratio sensors they sell for this car; and Denso is the original equipment part manufacturer.

    There is some confusion in my mind about the terminology they use: They make 2 different air/fuel ratio sensors for this motor, which both sell for the same price. Denso part #2349050 is listed as "upstream right," while Denso part # 2349041 is listed as "upstream left." Unless you are absolutely certain about the interpretation of these terms; I would phone Rock Auto Customer service at the number listed on the bottom of their website, and make sure to clarify which of those descriptions means Bank 1, on the radiator side.

    These parts are listed in their online catalog, in the "emissions" category, under "oxygen sensor." They list oxygen sensors and air/fuel ratio sensors in the same group.

    Looking back through the other responses you've received about this issue; it is apparent that some of the people who responded do not understand the difference between an oxygen sensor and an air/fuel ratio sensor. These parts are very different in both construction and price; and one cannot be substituted for the other. So you cannot use a generic oxygen sensor in place of your air/fuel ratio sensor.

    I also wanted to add that I have a Rock Auto discount code; which they are happy for me to share with other people. This code will reduce the price of the parts you buy by 5%. To apply it; just enter the number 73659436106501 at checkout, in the box that says "how did you hear about us" Just enter the number; no words or symbols.

    I also need to inform you that codes on 1996 and newer vehicles CANNOT be cleared by disconnecting the battery. This only works on pre-1996 vehicles. If you disconnect the battery on a 1996 or newer vehicle; the light will initially go off; but it will come back on in a few miles. The only way to clear codes from your computer is by using a code scanner which has code clearing capabilities. If you clear the code with a scanner (such scanners can be bought for about $50) you might find that the code does not come back, or maybe not.
  • chuck28chuck28 Member Posts: 259
    Thank you Zaken, for your help and the website for parts.I will try to call Rock auto and see if they can verify a part #.
    Toyota has changed there part# per TSB 0114-08 which also includes a modified Exhaust manifold. This can be costly and I'm waiting for a call back from Toyota on Monday to see if they will consider doing this under warrany seeing that it 's a design flaw per TSB and the consumer should'nt have to flip the bill for a manifold because a sensor goes bad.

    Another post mentioned about pulling a ECU fuse to reset the codes. Can that work? I hoping not to have to spend the $50 on a scanner though it might come in handy in the future.

    Thanks a gain for your help, chuck
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    I am unfamiliar with the technique of pulling the ECU fuse to clear codes. I doubt that will work; because it would basically be the same as disconnecting the battery. What needs to be done to clear codes is to specifically locate the code in the computer's memory, and erase that particular bit of information. This type of memory is called non-volatile memory; which means that it is not lost when power to the computer is disconnected. So if a car computer works like a home computer (which I'm sure it does) pulling the fuse will not clear codes. I assure you that a scanner will become a valuable asset; and the people you know who have car troubles in the future will also value your tool.
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