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Comments
I'll keep you updated when job is complete. Thanks again, chuck
Would anyone have a digrams or pictures of this exact engine.
Also does this car have 2 catalytic converters?
I want to make sure of the location before I by a fuel ratio sensor.
Thanks, chuck
Very sorry I goofed. I rarely do.
There are 2 catalytic converters on this model. They were produced in 2 different configurations. One version has a separate converter in unit with each exhaust manifold. The other version has 2 converters in a row in the exhaust pipe that runs back underneath the car from where both manifold outlets feed into it.
You need to be aware that, since Toyota has superseded the original part design; the aftermarket parts sold online may or may not match the new Toyota part design. It is essential to first clarify this information about any part that you decide to buy. You DON'T want the first design.
I'm wondering that in my 2007 Camry I don't plan on purchasing a new updated Manifold just want to change the old Sensor. Can I then order the original aftermarket sensor. Rock auto gave me a Denso part# after cross referencing it with the original toyota part#.
Thanks again for all your help, chuck
Another option would be to buy a pair of used exhaust manifolds and air fuel ratio sensors from a wrecking yard, taken from a 2008 or newer Camry with the 3.5 V-6. The part number for the AFR sensor changed in 2008, and the same one is used all the way up to the present day. I expect these manifolds are also the same as the upgrade they want to sell you. You might be able to get these parts surprisingly cheap. There are several wreckers who specialize in only Toyotas. Here's one of the most well reputed. They will ship parts anywhere in the US.
(http://www.ranchotoyotatruckparts.com/carpages/T09235Z21460.html)
To avoid surprises; you'd need to confirm that the catalytic converter style used with these manifolds is the same as the ones on your car (the later models use individual converters in unit with manifold). Rock Auto sells new integrated manifold/converters for the later Camrys for $400 each (2 required).
I just need to get under my car to identify the correct sensor. Need to find the time to do that. The diagram you sent is very helpful. I was also wondering if there is a diagram of the sensor locations.
Thanks much!
Appreciate all your help and feel free to send anymore info on this.
chuck
I'll keep you updated. Probabally won't get it changed before the weekend. Thanks again
The sensor has to be done from underneath.
I'm going to have ny original mechanic do it for $30 though I don't know if he will stick with that quote when he see's where it is at.
I'm sure he has the tools.
Today leacing work with the car still cold the car seemed to go into a neturel mode for a couple of seconds. It seemed like the trans was acting up. I have had issues with this trans but this was a severe slip as i was hitting the gas pedal and it was like dead air.
I'm wondering if it's all related to the sensor code?
I'll keep you informed, thank again, chuck
PS I know you mentioned that to reset a code it can't be done by disconnecting the battery on cars 1996 and newer. I have heard other say that too. The dealership toinght seeems to think you can. Not sure what to think.
Any suggestions would be great, chuck
I feel I need to point out the location of the sensor to these mechanic because like you said they are challenging to locate and get to.
One thing that is bothering me is that the new sensor I got from Rock Auto Denso 234-9050 has a wire of appox 12 inches. When I was under the car the other day with a Toyota Tec I seem to think a longer wire would be needed though I could be wrong on this seeing I never saw the connector.
I'm trying to find out info to confirm the length of the wire for the Bank 1 sensor 1 on the v-6 2007 Camry.
Thanks again for your words of wisdom. You are right on! chuck
I found time to make it to the mechanis shop I usally have sucess with on Tuesday afternoon. One of the young mechanics working there installed the sensor while I was able to watch him do the whole job. He did a great job as the challenging part was to get to the connector which is along the firewall. He took apart the air filter assembly and throttle body which he did very quickly and was able to reach down and find the connector. I was very pleased with the job which took less than an hour and would have been quicker if not for getting to the connector. I was only charged $30 which is a great deal and I tipped the mechanic $10. The code 2195 was reset and it hasn't come back.
I'm feeling the car is responding better to shifts as far as smootheness and no heavy engine breaking. It's only been some driving around the neighborhood and back and forth to work. I will get a better feel this weekend on how much of a change this sensor is making.
I'm wondering if this sensor has been faulty long before the check engine light came on. Also wondering if it was due to carbon build up?
Zaken, thank you so much for all your insight. You have been very helpful and I have learned a lot. I feel I can do this job myself next time if I had to.
Talk to you soon, chuck
Appreciate your responses.
P0010: "A" camshaft position actuator circuit problem (Bank 1)
P0157: Oxygen sensor circuit low voltage (Bank 2, sensor 2)
P0368: Camshaft position sensor "B" circuit high (Bank 1)
P0393: Camshaft position sensor "B" circuit high (Bank 2)
This is an unusual, and somewhat complex one. If your local dealership does not have top notch technicians in computer systems diagnosis; I would recommend going to an independent shop that specializes in computer controls and electrical systems. If you don't know of such a shop in your area; please say so, post your city and state; and I'll try to come up with a recommendation for a shop.
Appreciate your help.:-)
If you can correlate the appearance of the check engine light with any particular event (like perhaps the engine being steam cleaned, or getting stuck in a flood, driving over an object in the road, or the car being dropped or damaged in transit) it would be a valuable start. If anyone was playing around with the electrical wiring; this could also have been a cause.
Apologies for underestimating your deep wealth of knowledge. I had the car shipped in from the US and its a challenge getting good technicians around here.
What could go wrong if these problems are not fixed??
Here's a seat of the pants approach which might be helpful: Make sure there is a ground wire connected between a bolt in the engine block and a bolt in the firewall. If that wire cannot be found on your car; have a new one made from a length of approx. 14 gauge stranded electrical wire; strip the insulation off each end, and crimp a suitable size ring terminal on each end. Then fasten the wire to an engine bolt and a bolt in the firewall.
Make sure that the battery ground (negative) "-" cable goes to a clean bolt that threads directly into the engine, and is not instead fastened to a bracket or a painted part. Re-route the cable if necessary.
Disconnect and spray WD-40, brake cleaner, mass airflow sensor cleaner, trichlorethylene, Methyl Ethyl Ketone, or electrical contact cleaner into the terminals in all the electrical wiring harness plugs which lead to things on the engine. DO NOT USE CARBURETOR CLEANER OR SOLVENTS WHICH LEAVE ANY RESIDUE. Include any plugs on the firewall that lead to the engine. If these chemicals are not available; plugging and unplugging the connectors repeatedly may remove any corrosion on the contacts. A fine file or needle nose pliers may also be used to advantage in insuring a good connection in the contacts. Be careful to not distort contacts so they do not mate well. Also disconnect the battery cables from the battery and scrape their contact faces and the surface of the battery posts with a round file, or a battery cable service tool.
While the battery cables are disconnected; turn on all the electrical switches (ignition key, lights, heater, windshield wiper, radio, cruise control, fan, air conditioning, etc, and leave all the switches on for about 30 minutes. Then turn all the switches off, reinstall the battery cables and tighten the bolts until the cable clamps cannot be moved by hand pressure.
After all the above work is done; use a code scanner to clear all trouble codes which are in the computer. The car may run strangely for the first few minutes after it is started; while the computer relearns the normal sensor inputs. It will then be helpful to put the car through the entire range of its capabilities; by driving until the temperature gauge reaches normal, and then accelerating at different rates, including some full throttle bursts from perhaps 30 to 60 mph; along with driving at sustained high speeds for a mile or more (if possible).
That's all I have in my pockets at this time. Good luck to you.
I think Zaken has excellent advice. I was alos wondering do you have a remost starter hooked up in your car that could have caused an electical problem?
Hope you find a solution, chuck
To me that can be a serious safety issue seeing that drivers benifit with these features while driving on slippery pavement. Why would Toyota design these features to go out when other engine codes are present.
I was driving my car recently with the check engine light on along with the VSC and Traction control lights on and took a sharp turn and realized the VSC was not working like it normally would. When these lights are on it doesn't say on or off.
Thanks for any insight, chuck
Thanks for your input, chuck
Spoke with a service tech at dealer who says until fluid leaking around the valve Toyota will not cover. So basically I have to wait for it to blow and be towed somewhere?
E mailed main offices of Toyota USA to inquire why this is happening. There has to be something wrong with the system to have this frequent water pump failure.
My daughter purchased a 98 corolla with 98,000 miles on it , had already been beaten to he** and she beat it up for two more years to about 150,000 miles till she wrecked it.
This car is babied to death, maintained as instructed and still is having major failure. Very disappointed.
The thing to do then is to hire an attorney who specializes in Lemon Law cases. Toyota is the last party to admit their errors; but the Lemon Law attorney may be able to make them pay the bill for having a properly designed pump installed in place of their faulty part. Or you can just eat the cost of having it fixed right; and publicize how you fixed it in local newspapers and TV stations.
Of course in two days no answer from Toyota USA; like the suggestion to purchase the pump from Rock Auto, have done business with them for parts before. Not easy to find good lawyers where we live, NY State Lemon Law requires three failures I think.
Just need to find a local garage we trust, have replaced pumps myself on older vehicles, not sure want to tackle it on this one.
Toyota should pay for this, and should admit the problem. Of course also have a 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix where it took GM over 10 yrs to admit a problem with oil leaking into the valves and possibly causing fire and put out a recall...Unfortunately it seems none of the auto manufacturers stand by their product anymore.
If you would like a recommendation for a good, independent, local shop; please respond to this message by posting the city and state in which you live; and I'll try to come up with one.
1. Write a letter to Tojo the president of Toyota in Japville and ask.
2. Small claims court focuses their attention wonderfully
3. Better Business Bureau: I could never understand it but many "thugs" do not
want any attention from BBB.
Good Luck.
I am in Venice, FL. Am willing to travel 30 miles or so to find a good mechanic.
Thanks,
Turned out the Camry rattle was more in the back end; we replaced the rear stabilizer bushings to cure THAT rattle.
Guess I'll have to start slowing down for those speed bumps.
I have had this problem for a while and seems to be getting worse. Does Toyota admit the poroblem and will they flip for the bill?
Has anyone replaces this sensor. I heard that the connector may connect in the console of the car which has to be taken apart.
Thanks for any info.
chuck
Any thought out there, thanks chuck
Thanks again, chuck