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Comments
CHeck enginge light came back on while wife was driving about 6 hours later appox. 20 miles.
My mechanic siad he has not found leaks in manifold and he has been suggesting that I get new sensors from Toyota because he has had problems in the past with the aftermarket sensors and have found no problems when using Toyota sensors.
I would have to make an approx. $300 dollor investment in Toyota's sensors.
I always apeciate your advice and will wait to here from you.
Thanks again as always, chuck
Thanks, chuck
I have had a couple of conversation with Denso and they also confirmed what you said about their sensors.
However the only thing the Tech wasn't able to confirm if the voltage or ohms ( sorry not sure of the right terminology) were the same. What do you think? Thanks again, chuck
All that being said I just noticed that the little metal flap that is at the fuel neck opening is missing. I allways thought there was one there. Can i be mistaken or can this be causing a evap problem and trigger the codes.
Just wondering, thanks chuck
I have also been told by a new mechanic which I shared my sensor story with today who workrd for Toyota in Japan for 4 years some 40 years ago and now has his own idependent shop in the chicago area. All he does is work on Toyota's. He suggested that I use premium gas.
I know you have also mentioned to me about the heavy carbon build up in my engine. I just started using premium again a week ago and today I put in the chevron fuel treatment you once recommended. I am going to try a few tanks of preumium be fore I invest more money into sensors. If you have anymore cleaning the systen tips please let me know.
Thanks again Zaken, I appricate you, chuck
Fuel and ignition issues can both contribute to a situation like this. Toyota engines often are affected by ignition problems. This can be caused by inappropriate spark plug choices (which sometimes include the stock NGK plugs), and can also be caused by defective ignition coils.
If you're considering throwing hundreds of dollars into oxygen sensors; I would think the chances of success would be greater if you spent that money on a set of improved design ignition coils. The original coils on this motor are known to be prone to failures; and failing coils will not trigger a coil failure code in the early stages (though they certainly will affect the fuel mixture). Along with replacing the coils; it might be a further improvement to use a different style of spark plug. I would recommend the Airtex/Wells coils that are listed for your car in the Rock Auto catalog. They are easy enough to change that you could do it yourself. If you do this, and would then like a recommendation for an alternative spark plug; just let me know.
I was going to put more chevron treatment in my next tank but I let the guy at auto zone talk me into this product called Lucas 10020 upper cylinder fuel injector cleaner. He claimed it is better than Chevron. I went head and tried it though I should have talked to you first.
I filled up with Shell Premium and added the bottle. Car had noticeable more power. However the check engine light came on only after 20 miles. I have disconnected battery again and will recheck today.
Am I hurting anything by using this product?
Thank for all your help, Happy Easter, chuck
2> While Lucas fuel injector cleaner is a good product; it has a narrower range of effects than Chevron Techron. Each product has its purpose and strong points; but each also has a degree of solvent action; which has enough of a diluting effect on the oil in the cylinders that it should not be repeated more often than about 3,000 miles. What I'm saying here is that I do not recommend using any fuel injector or combustion chamber cleaner more often than once every 3,000 miles; and only one product at a time. So, if you use one brand, no other brand or no more of the one you just added should be used for the next 3,000 miles.
3> If you want to make the motor more efficient; have the mass airflow sensor cleaned; using only mass airflow sensor spray, and have the throttle body thoroughly cleaned (paying particular attention to both sides of the butterfly and to the entire bore; especially where the edges of the butterfly touch the bore). This can be done as often as 3,000 miles; but most vehicles will not show noticeable benefit if it is repeated more often than 6,000 mile intervals.
4> As I have previously recommended; I believe that replacing the ignition coils with the Airtex/Wells model specified for your car will improve the running. I can also suggest an alternative spark plug choice; if you so request.
How's that for "2" items?
On another note I was under my car today removing the plastic shield underneath the front of the engine so I can get a better look at the windshield fluid resevoir that I thought might be leaking. Still not sure about that but while under there I notice a dime size jagged hole in the casing of the motor mount. This seems to be a heavy duty steel and can't figure out how that got there. Is there anything inside that casing that could have busted through that?
I'm sure this is a new request of you. I figured if anyone has an answer it would be you. Thanks again Zaken.
PS Is there any way I can connect with you outside the website?
Those mounts are sometimes not finished nicely; and could have some slag or rough edges on them just as a normal imperfection. I can't imagine anything punching through it.
I have mixed feelings about connecting outside of this site. I realize it would reduce the time lag; but it would also have the potential to be an intrusion into my personal life. You see; I feel very responsible about answering people's questions promptly; and thus am not comfortable about knowing that there is an unanswered question hanging. If such questions are limited to the Town Hall and Edmunds Answers websites; I can control how often I log on; and that allows me to concentrate on my other activities as desired. But if questions or requests were to show up on my e-mail account; I would find them much more difficult to ignore. As it now is; I often feel pressured by the various demands on my time from activities in which I take part. And I try to maintain a relaxed pace of life; which allows me to choose when and what I do at any given time.
Perhaps if you explain why it would be desirable for you to be able to contact me outside this site; I could be in a better position to respond about such a request.
The picture of the motor mount is what I was looking at. The hole is located about an inch or two above the factory whole that is shown in the picture. I took a picture of it but not sure if I can post it to show you. I'm assuming the casing is just there as a cover and the mount is still working properly. Wondering if there is any fluid in these mounts.
Thank again and I'll keep you updated, chuck
They claim this is not warranty work under the power train warrany only the 3 yr -36,000 bumper to bumper/
I have an extended power train warranty which clearly states what is covered under the warranty and it list the exhaust manifold.
How can Toyota say this would not be covered?
Thanks for your insight, chuck
I will keep you informed, thanks chuck
I tried to negotiate not to change the Bank 2 sensor which would save me $212.00 and he said he had to check to see if they started taking it out yet. He then said mechanic said sensor looked week and he wouldn't be able to warranty the work if I chose not replace it. For the peace of mind I agreed to have him replace it.
All and all I'm pleased to have the job done to Toyata's specification. I have all the updated parts including the redesign manifold. This would have been close to a $1800 job with out the warranty of the manifold.
Rock auto also agreed to give me credit on the sensors I bought from them. Very nice of them.
I have all the original sensors. As I inspect the Rock auto's sensors they say Denso on them but not Toyota. The old Toyota's sensors say Toyota with there part number on them. I did notice that there was a design difference in the two oxygen sensors. Toyota's had a few small holes in it and the Rock auto had multiple holes up and down. I can't say each sensor is exactly the same/ The fuel ratio's were closer in looks.
This has been a long journey and I hope it's over. I still hate dealing with the dealerships but seeing that they covered more than half the job I'm happy.
Thanks for all your insight and I look forward to continue to gain more wisdom from you in the days to come. You have been a great help! Chuck
Car is running better than ever. Check engine lights gone after TSB performed. (replaced manifold and fuel-air sensors).
Car is shifting better and gas milage is better. It's a joy to drive agian.
Thanks again for the knowledge we learn on this site.
Cannot believe the brakes lasted so long. Mine i was the first batch after the hesitation fix , i made sure of it in 07 . great car and many more miles to go.It has become the older vehicle in the family and sees limited usage as my winter commuter when its too cold for the motorcycle. But 4 yrs it carried our family everyday and was our primary vehicle.
Does anyone know what can be causing this diming glowing.
Thanks chuck
Also has anyone done there own brakes and found any problems with aditional shims that are requrured?
Thanks for any insight you may have, chuck
Took battery to auto zone battery tested good ( meaning cells good) but needs charge.
Auto zone is charging the battery for me and I will pick up tomorrow.
It's seems it might be an alternator problem.
If anyone has any insight on this matter it would be much appreciated.
Thank you, chuck
So soon at home I go on line to investigate, uh oh!!! I am not the only one here!! Now this is the begining stages for me and after reading through forums, not looking [non-permissible content removed]. In the mean time for those of you dealing with this and from what I understand shelling out major dollars. This is for you...
http://www.checkvscsystem.com (post your story and issue)
Complaints, concerns and issues need to be directed to this site
http:www.nhtsa.gov/
After reading several posts, I do believe we have a problem here. Please check into this if you are having this same issue. It seems to be quite apparent. God speed to all
Called Toyota USA and they are not accepting any design issues with water pump.
Is this a v-6?
What was the symptoms when pump failed?
I have a 07 v-6 with 71,000 miles. I have had numerous problems with my Camry including alternator but water pump still ok for now.
Toyota should back these water pumps with a better warranty. I have never opened a car where pump fails with the mileage you have.
I hope you can get resolve through the dealership or get it fixed through a outside shop that would do it cheaper.
This defect has resulted in catastrophic failure to the engine of our car. Presently our car is inoperable and sitting in our parking lot. We are not in a position to spend money to fix a problem that is clearly due to bad design and inferior parts by Toyota. In doing extensive research on the Internet, we found out this is a known defect with this oil hose. This is clearly the fault of Toyota and not us and many other Toyota customers.
Not only that, we had been bringing this car to your dealership for regular service. Why at some point in time did the dealer not inform us and replace the defective part before it resulted in catastrophic failure of our car’s engine? This problem was unbeknownst to us but certainly was a known issue by Toyota.
Hopeful that Toyota would do the right thing and assess and fix our car at no cost to us, we called Toyota USA. They told us to call our local dealer. We called Penn Toyota. Although sympathetic to our cause, they told us he was not in a position to help us and we should call Toyota USA. We called Toyota USA again and they told us that since there was no official recall and our car is out of warranty that they would not do anything without us paying. We spent $22,000 on this car which is now worth nothing to us because of poor design and inferior parts. This should be on Toyota to fix on their dime, not ours.
I have been posting on Toyota USA Facebook page to let other people know about this and put some pressure on Toyota, first they were deleting my posts and now they have taken away my ability to post on their page. Quite ironic to me on the 4th of July a massive corporation is censoring me. Toyota’s refusal to do the right thing here is outrageous.
Beware other Camry owners of this problem. It is also a problem with other Toyota models.
Toyota did was to install a "rubber" oil line!!! You heard me right they installed a rubber
oil line that goes from the rear(?) of the engine and alongside the manifold. My 2007 camry 6 cyl did the same as your car. I had to pay for the tow but they supposedly fixed the problem. A high
school freshman knows that you don't run petroleum products through a "rubber" hose. Make sure they do the third "fix" and not the second because they apparently needed 3 to fix the problem. I got the dealer to fix it at no cost to me. If the slimebag dealer you are talking with
will not fix it free then take him to small claims. Also report it to the BBB (better business bureau) for some reason or other these ripoff artists don't like to be on the net or hounded by
the BBB. Hope this helps.
did you finally fix the problem....any help would be appreciated
6 speed transmission.
Transmission fluid check for 2007 Camry 3.5 liter V6 and 6 speed automatic transmission.
This transmission does not have a dip stick. It is a sealed transmission.
Toyota will tell you the transmission must be flushed rather than checked. This is not true.
Toyota calls for special service tools and I suspect a person could do without them. The tools are:
Toyota Diagnostic Tester Kit TOY220036
CAN Interface Module Kit 01002744 (Controller Area Network for automobiles)
Transmission Fill System 00002-11100-02
These special service tools will most likely be out of the price range for the home user. Once again I suspect the tools are not necessary.
Filling the transmission or topping off the transmission level is done by delivering transmission fluid into a fill hole and observing when the transmission fluid has a slow constant drain from the lower overflow plug. This must be done at specific temperatures with the engine running.
The refill plug is on the left side of the engine transmission about 4” from the front and about 1” above the vertical center line. You can access it by turning the wheels to the far left and taking wheel well apron off with a 10mm socket. Use a 24mm socket to remove the fill hole plug.
The overflow plug is on the bottom of the transmission fluid pan and slightly recessed. Use a 6mm hex key to unscrew it.
Procedure:
Make sure your car is on level ground or elevate the car and keep it level. During the following test do not slam on the brakes while the wheels are turning and the car is on jacks.
Circulate the transmission fluid by starting the engine in Park.
Move the gear selector from Park to Reverse.
Note: Allow each gear to engage fully when shifting gears.
Move the gear selector from Reverse to Neutral.
Move the gear selector from Neutral to Drive.
If the wheels are free running, press GENTLY on the brakes to stop them and return the gear selector to the Park position. (stopping wheels too quickly could throw car off jack stands).
Check the A/T fluid by allowing the engine to idle until the A/T fluid temperature reaches 102 degrees Fahrenheit. (39 degrees C) I will suggest a diagnostic tester, a digital thermocouple temperature sensor on the transmission pan or just touching the transmission pan and feeling for 102 degrees which is the temperature you would have on your forehead with a very bad fever.
Remove the overflow plug located on the bottom of the transmission pan with the engine idling. Use a 6mm hex key. The plug seals the overflow tube. The tube extends further up into the transmission to establish the proper fluid level. Only the overflow tube plug is removed. The transmission fluid must be filled to rise above this tube and then down through the overflow tube and out where the plug is removed.
Check that fluid comes out of the overflow tube while the A/T fluid temperature is in the range of 104 – 113 degrees F. (40 – 45 C)
If fluid comes out, reinstall the overflow plug.
Note: The transmission fluid could be low and the overflow tube could have a small amount of transmission fluid in it. Don’t let this fool you. Make sure the transmission fluid flows for a second or two.
If fluid does not come out add A/T fluid. (Genuine ATF WS Transmission Fluid) by removing the refill plug on the left side of the transmission.
Add fluid until it comes out the overflow tube.
After the A/T fluid temperature drops below 102 degrees F, recheck A/T fluid level again by running the engine until the transmission fluid reaches 104 – 113 digress F. You can use a hose with gravity feed or a hose and squeeze bottle to put transmission fluid in the fill hole. Make sure fluid gently streams out of the overflow tube. Then reinstall the overflow plug.
Install the refill plug.
This procedure and pictures can be seen at http://tkpro.com/trans.htm
Transmission flush.
It is my guess the sealed Toyota transmission is subject to the same flushing conditions as any automatic transmission. You cannot remove all the fluid and then replace all the fluid. You must insert fluid as fluid drains. You can only drain a percentage of the fluid because the torque converter retains a lot of fluid.
If you drop the transmission fluid pan you will remove 3 to 4 quarts of transmission fluid. Then you reinstall the transmission pan and add the same amount you drained. Use the above fluid check to make certain the level is correct. If the car holds 12 quarts of transmission fluid and you replace 4 quarts you will replace 33% of the fluid. The next time you repeat this same procedure you will replace 33% of the 66% that remained in the transmission from the first flush. This is as efficient as any form of transmission flush where you do not remove the transmission from the car. The percentages of transmission fluid renewal are as follows.
Removal of 4 quarts at a time. (this could be done on every other oil change)
1. 4 quarts or 33% of 100% = 66% unchanged.
2. 4 quarts of 33% of 66% - 43% unchanged
3. 4 quarts or 33% of 43% = 29% unchanged
4. 4 quarts or 33% of 29% = 19% unchanged
5. 4 quarts or 33% of 19% = 12% unchanged.
As you can see, by the 5th change you have replaced 88% of the transmission fluid if 4 quarts can be changed on every other oil change.
You will have to make note of the condition of transmission pan seal and determine if it needs replacement. You can also clean the pan and the magnets in the bottom of the pan that catch metal particles. I do not know at this time if there is a filter that needs to be replaced. Most transmission places tell me not to replace it if the transmission is functioning properly.