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Comments
Also, big blocks especially had a habit of of breaking the exhaust bolts that keep the manifold on the head. Those bolts get red hot and if they aren't made of the right steel alloy they get brittle and break. Chevy used some bad ones for a while.
I'm not convinced your power problem and the ticking sound are related.
G'luck.
1offroader
Thanks
The fuel gauge on your vehicle is integrated with the fuel pump, and is worn to the point of being defective. In essense, it is giving you a false reading at 1/4 tank, and the tank is close to empty. As you mentioned, adding a couple of gallons of fuel cures the problem temporarily.
A replacement pump from a dealer will be about $490, and around $350 aftermarket. I located the correct pump on eBay for $279 and had it installed for $200. A far cry from a dealer quote of $900. Check ebay@conquestauto.com for a new AC Delco pump [factory]. 90% of all Suburbans are flex-fuel, which means the more expensive pump, part #MU1379. If your truck is a 'Z' code it is flex-fuel.
Since the pump is still operable, I recommend you keep the pump in your vehicle for those cross-country jaunts . . . you'll never find a flex-fuel pump in the middle of America when you need one! Incidentally, since the fuel pump is located in the tank, the only thing that cools the pump is the fuel. Keeping at least 1/4 tank of fuel in the tank at all times is the best way to extend the life of the pump . . . and you know you always have a little reserve for an emergency. I've tried to convey that message to others in the household to no avail!
Good luck!
Sirfile
Shut off the engine if it was running and then bang on the bottom of the tank with your fist. If you don't shut if off, it banging won't fix it. For this reason I think that the fuel screen in the tank is becoming clogged and stopping the fuel flow lets the debris fall off. Mine may have started when I used fuel that had been in my boat tank. I've used lots of dry gas and sulfur cleaner and replaced filters to try to fix it.
Those who have replaced pumps probably had their tanks emptied and that would clear out debris. I'm just going to live with it. I haven't been able to get a hose into the tank to suck it out. It's not a bad idea to keep your tank 1/2 full anyhow. If I drove hills and fast highways and heavy loads a lot I'd probably dump the tank.
I've posted before on this condition.
Tell us what you do.
air conditioning pump load. Might be a loose tensioner or bad pump.
Thanks
They replaced some type of air control valve and added insulation. Just got it back tonight. Since no one was sitting in the passenger seat, I don't know if it's fixed. Wife and kids and I will be driving the burb a 100 miles or so tomorrow, so I'll find out for sure then.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
Carl
I did find a small tubing up on the canister, that a mouse had eaten thru. I fixed that connection, and hadn't heard the noise in about a month before I traded it in on a 2007 model.
Carl
Good luck.
Thanks in advance to any replies or help.
My 95 GMC 7.4 ltr Suburban was running fine and died as I was changing the air cleaner filter and won't start again. I replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump and am showing good pressure. The motor will start with a little gas poured down thwe TBI unit but dies right away as the prime is burned off. I replaced the ignition module in the distributer too. I have voltage to the (2) injectors in the TBI unit but they are not firing when I crank the motor. I can make them fire manually with a small 12v battery so the injectors do work.
I'm not sure what to check next; I thought I maight have grounded something with the air cleaner housing or knocked something loose. I'm not getting any codes either. maybe bad crank sensor or ???
Any help or diection greatly appreciated.
:confuse:
I replaced the master cylinder but now the pedal is very difficult to depress. Hopefully, the booster didn't fail already. But, when purchasing the master cylinder, the parts shop said to look at the Service Parts ID sticker to determine JB6 or JB7. I found the sticker, but I didn't find where it identified JB6 or 7. Comparing the two visually, there was virtually no difference.
If I put the incorrect one on, could this result in increased resistance for the brake pedal? Also, can I use the VIN to validate if it's a JB6 or 7 and if so, how?
from experience, the 700r4 trannys have been unreliable and are not durable. i have a 2500 suburban, that has towed an 11 thousand pound trailer for the past 5 years up and down the mountains probably 2 times a month. the transmission is original and it is still rock solid at 200,000 miles. i noticed it looked different than the 700r4 i had in another suburban.
any ideas?
any ideas?
Thanks
Man this is tough without codes. One hardly knows where to start. I'm wondering if a defective fuel pressure regulator could cause this? This regulator is part of the fuel meter cover assembly.
I'm lucky I have a 93 Silverado I can swap parts with to experiment, although that's having a running rich problem at the moment that no one can seem to figure out. That's next on the list to fix.
I definately miss the days of carbs and no computers.
Thanks for the input.
Thanks