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Chevy Suburban Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    How did you prove, or disprove that? Did you have to take it to the dealer?
  • falcon2000falcon2000 Member Posts: 8
    I had already replaced the distributor, and coil, which I had intended on doing anyway before the problem started so they were not a factor since I still had the problem. I did replace the ignition switch for the hell of it, but that had no affect either. The biggest tell tale I had was that when the ignition quit the first time the speedometer stayed at the speed that I was driving at even after the I came to a full stop, and didn't return to 0 until I put the ignition switch to off. Looking at the wiring diagrams, engine control, and emission control component descriptions, and the fact that there were no check engine codes there appeared to be nothing that would cause this other then a failure of the ECM. Basically I took a guess. I temporarily installed the ECM from my 93 Silverado and the problem was solved. God knows what a shop would have cost me to find the problem.
  • elorenzo39elorenzo39 Member Posts: 20
    I have a 99 Suburban with a 5.7. I had a leak on my intake gasket and got that replaced. After a week, engine runs rough and showing P0300. Replaced cap/rotors, plug, wires, MAP sensor, Cam Sensor, and Crankshaft sensor. Then I replaced the ecm. Still doing the same thing. Mechanic advised me that it can be the head gasket that will run be about $1200 to $1500. I don't think thats the problem. I did not let them fix the head gasket. After I replaced all the things that I replaced, now its showing p0304 cylinder misfire on 4. Please help if anyone solved the problem. Can it be my EGR valve, fuel injector? I checked the plug on cylinder 4 and it is firing fine. Please help, don't have anymore ideas and running low on my repair budget.

    Thanks,

    Elorenzo39
  • gear_head2000gear_head2000 Member Posts: 10
    Do you hear any hissing sound? (sign of vaccum leak)
    Another indication of a small vacuum leak is that it will probably start running on all cylinders with your foot in it (under heavy load). Check closely for a loose / missing vaccum hose on or around the runner for cyl#4. You can also spray a little brake clean around the gasket area while idling rough to see if that cylinder starts cutting in.
  • spence57spence57 Member Posts: 26
    Your mechanic ought to be able to give a better estimate of what the problem could be before suggesting such expensive repairs. Engines mix air with fuel and use a spark to ignite it in multiple cylinders. Simply disconnecting spark plugs might tell you what cylinders are involved. An oscilloscope can tell if the sparks are consistent. Pressure tests can tell if there are leaks in certain cylinders or their valves. Compare your plugs. An exhaust sensor may tell if the mixture is a problem. Check the vacuum and those hoses and make sure the plug wires haven't been switched. Consider getting a more experienced mechanic.
  • frankholdenfrankholden Member Posts: 2
    my son installed a new long block in my 98 suburban. problem no fire to spark plugs. we replaced new crankshaft sensor,coil,ignition module. we are getting power to coil and ignition module. please help it driving us crazy.engine does turn over.
  • elorenzo39elorenzo39 Member Posts: 20
    Before installing the fuel lines from the back of the motor left side. Did you pressurize the fuel lines? If there is no pressure, engine will not fire up. Do you know if you are getting fuel?

    Please keep us posted. I still need help on my burb myself.
  • frankholdenfrankholden Member Posts: 2
    yes we check and get gas. the problem no spark to spark plug. will look at cam sensor today. does anyone know how to check to see if sensor is bad, before i buy a new one.
  • elorenzo39elorenzo39 Member Posts: 20
    Thanks for the info. I have already checked for vacuum leaks and I dont have any vacuum leak. Thanks for your help.
  • bigtruckuser04bigtruckuser04 Member Posts: 2
    Frank, I am have the exact same problem you are having with you 98. I just installed a new engine in my 99 Suburban and I have no spark. I do not know what the problem is and I was wondering if you found out what was causing yours.
  • bigtruckuser04bigtruckuser04 Member Posts: 2
    Frank, I am have the exact same problem you are having with you 98. I just installed a new engine in my 99 Suburban and I have no spark. I do not know what the problem is and I was wondering if you found out what was causing yours.
  • jlabantjlabant Member Posts: 1
    Friends,
    I recently picked up a junk yard special 4L60E transmission for my 1997 1500 with 150K. Took it to my local transmission shop to have the main shaft switched out to accomodate my 4X4 shaft. ( trans was from a 2 wheel drive truck with 26K on the clock). Had the tech check it you while doing the shaft transfer. He claimed the box had little to no wear and I should be fine. I personally installed the trans and had good success for the first 25 miles, While backing up a hill. I noticed that the transmission was now starting to slip in reverse and it showed a chek engine light. I checked the code with my reader and it showed up as a transmission electronics code failure. Fluid looks perfect, I looking for suggestions, any ideas?
    Jerry
  • jerome4jerome4 Member Posts: 1
    just got my SUV out of the Shop & paid $1192 and its still not running right,Guy said its the Coil Wire and thats why its not running right.It wants to cut off like its not getting Gas and its back fired once If were at a light and take off its like its not getting gas.Had the Flue pump changed,distributor & the cap.Now the guy said Hey it may be all the wiring and he'll need about 4-6hrs to look over it at $85 an hour.ANY help would be used with care.thanks Jerome & Family :cry:
  • rockman59rockman59 Member Posts: 250
    Jerome4 said: ANY help would be used with care.thanks
    ____________________________________________________________________
    Why would you pay someone big bucks when they did not do the job right the first time? You need to take your vehicle to an authorized GM shop. You just paid almost $1200 and still the vehicle does not run right. Unbelievable. It will cost you some more money at a GM dealer but at least you will have a vehicle that will run.
  • spence57spence57 Member Posts: 26
    Actually I think backfiring is an explosion of unburnt gas so it so at least then you had enough fuel just poor timing, a bad mixture, improper spark or somethink else.
  • ptynningptynning Member Posts: 1
    Chevy Surburban 1500 5.7L with thottle bodly fuel injection

    Changed plugs,wires,Dist Cap,Rotor

    Checked Compression on #6 -200 psi

    Unplugged #6 plug wire and not change to engine rough idle which means
    # 6 cycliner not firing

    DO YOU PROS HAVE ANY IDEAS??? * HELP*
  • rustyk1rustyk1 Member Posts: 4
    did you check the rockers? might have a stuck valve or bent pushrod pop the valve cover and see what is moving.Also did you have someone watch the spark plug while connected to the wire and grounded against the head to make sure there is no spark? new plug, new wires, might have a bad one from the box.
  • michelewmichelew Member Posts: 1
    Did it end up being the solenoid?

    We are having the same exact problem with our 1995 Suburban. Thanks for any info.
  • gblairgblair Member Posts: 7
    Complain to Chevy!

    Defective Seat Belts is a SAFETY ISSUE!

    Nothing Makes an automaker jump faster than the threat of Bad Publicity on a SAFETY ISSUE.

    Safety Issues can lead to lawsuits & recalls GM does NOT want to the public to know about! I have the same issues with the center row seatbelts on my 2001 suburban LS, and I do not want to be the only voice complaining to GM on this topic: My buckle housings have split apart and come off of my center row seat & I cannot replace the belts they're sewn to, because GM has sewn them to brackets welded directly to the floor beneath the Center row seat.

    Please tell us what GM does for you!
  • esther08esther08 Member Posts: 3
    I want to try to replace my fuel filter if it isn't too hard, anybody done it before?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    4.8, 5.3, or 5.3 flex fuel? Which engine?
  • flyb412flyb412 Member Posts: 4
    I need to replace the brake master cylinder on my 90 suburban, R1500, 6.2L diesel. This will be my first time. Any helpful advice will be gratefully appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think the removal/installation is pretty straightforward, but you might want to get yourself a Haynes or Chilton's manual to learn the proper bleeding procedure, especially if you have ABS brakes. The public library might have this by the way.
  • ilive2ilive2 Member Posts: 1
    I am a novice back yard mechanic (i.e. I don't know what I'm doing). How do I replace the fuel filter in my 99 suburban 1500 (4wd)?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The fuel filter is located along the LH frame rail.

    REMOVAL PROCEDURE

    IMPORTANT: If the in-line filter is plugged, the fuel tank should be inspected internally and cleaned if necessary. Refer to Fuel System Cleaning.

    CAUTION:

    * Do not drain the fuel into an open container. Never store the fuel in an open container due to the possibility of a fire or an explosion.
    * Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure. Have a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher nearby.
    3. Turn the filter housing counterclockwise and allow the fuel remaining in the filter housing to drain into an approved container.
    4. Remove the fuel filter housing and gasket from the base.
    5. Remove the fuel filter cartridge.
    6. Inspect the inside of the housing for signs of rust or corrosion. Discard the housing if rust or corrosion is present.

    INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

    1. Install a new housing gasket. Apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the gasket.
    2. Install the new filter cartridge.
    3. Connect the housing to the base. Tighten

    o Tighten the filter housing until the gasket seats.
    o Tighten filter housing 3/4 of a turn more.

    4. Check for fuel leaks.

    4.1. Connect the negative battery cable.
    4.2. Turn ON the ignition switch for 2 seconds .
    4.3. Turn OFF the ignition switch for 10 seconds .
    4.4. Again, turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
    4.5. Check for fuel leaks.
  • mycar15mycar15 Member Posts: 3
    hello , i my self am going thru the same thing with my 03 tahoe , i would like to know if you have fixed the problem and what you did to fix it , i have tried looking for bad connections but have had no luck ,i am thinking of taking it to the dealer but, thats going to cost an arm and a leg ,and to make matters worse ,thats the only car i have ,so if you would let me know what you did to resolve the problem i would be very thankful , hope to hear from you soon , and thank you for your time...
  • mycar15mycar15 Member Posts: 3
    i have an 03 tahoe that cuts out when i hit a bump , message #391 had the same thing going on ,any ideas??

    i have an 03 tahoe with an intermitten problem when I hit a bump it seems like my vehicle shuts off and turns on momentarily. Sometimes the door locks just cycle and sometimes the check engine light goes on and off, ABS light comes on and off, brake warning light goes on and off, service brake system flashes across my odometer and chimeing like I just started the vehicle. I also lose power for a second. Sometimes the ABS light and brake warning light stays on. My brakes work fine and the brake warning light goes out when I shut off and restart the vehicle, then after running awhile the ABS clears. At least till I hit another bump. Any thoughts where to start? It seems to be a loose electrical connection. Checked ths grounds off of the engine and it isn't loose. I also had the seat heaters on when it did this and they turned off. No OBD codes
  • batkinsonbatkinson Member Posts: 11
    what is the problem,it won't start sometimes,then it starts
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You will have to give significantly more information than that. Please describe your symptoms in much greater detail.

    As an example....
    When you say it doesn't start, do you mean that the starter doesn't engage when you turn the key, turning over the engine?

    or do you mean, the starter turns over the engine, but the engine will not fire up and start running?
  • thiseythisey Member Posts: 11
    I replaced my battery and the ignition relay ($10). GM has a secret bulletin about this problem. The dealer will deny, deny, deny about it. I was given a copy of the bulletin from a GM warranty mechanic who was employed at the Oil company I was working at. He gave it to me with the caveat to not tell the dealer where I learned this from. GMs own bulletin advised changing the battery and the relay. I bought a new gel battery and have eliminated all of my electrical problems.
  • mycar15mycar15 Member Posts: 3
    well , thanks for all the help but , well , i broke down and took my tahoe to the dealership today at 7:30 am ,by 4:30 i called the service dept. back and was told that they could not get my tahoe to act up but they pulled up two codes saying i needed a nutral safety switch and a new fuel pump in all it was going to cost me $980 some dollars and they said that would fix my problem , well i declined to the repairs , went to the dealer after work ,paid $90 dollars for the computer scan and went home and started to check the tahoe my self ,well after 15mins, i found the problem called the dearler told them what i found ,all they said is that they were sorry and refunded me my money ,man that is really bad ,i dont have any scaners or wiring diagrams or a fancy shop or a whole lot of money, but i did need my tahoe fixed , well if any one needs the fixs for the same problem email me and i'll walk you thur it, thanks for everybodys help and" fatmando" your comment was really dumb . my email is , xr1@live .com . thanks !!!!!!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Why don't you just post what you found, so others may look for it as a possible problem in the future.

    Bad ignition switch? Bad relay? Loose wire?
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    How often should this be done? I've got about 45K miles, never changed it yet. Seems like a prior vehicle (2000 Mustang) recommended it be done at 30K (or was it 40K?) in the owner's manual, but the GMC Yukon XL manual does not mention anything about the fuel filter.
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    Answering my own question here. Edmunds maintenance guide says to replace the fuel filter at 60K. A couple of other things struck me as odd - It never says to change the coolant or transmission fluid, only to inspect and fill as needed. I'll probably flush and replace both of those at 60K as well.
  • bstaples1bstaples1 Member Posts: 2
    I also have a 99 same thing was happening to me I learned that on my truck I have full time hubs or vacumn hubs witch means that the tires are locked to the drive shaft not both at same time but all i could figure is that at high speed the front drive shaft would vibrate and as i would come to a slow speed it would bind as to apear tight when lightly checked how I found out was I droped my transfer case do fix a leek and the drive shaft about fell apart it was so worn out. hope that helps.
  • okierodokierod Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 suburban ws doing same thing I changed the fuel regulator on the fuel rail. It was $50 and easy to change. Make sure to get all the old o-rings out.
  • simmysimmy Member Posts: 5
    I have a 95 chevy suburban 2500 that absolutely will not start. The fuel pump was replaced and I was able to make 4 stops. Well on my 4th stop it wouldn't start back up. The fuel pressure was checked and that was fine. Changed the fuel relay, coil, battery, throttle body, injectors, checked the spark plugs, changed the distributer and the o rings. Still nothing. The mechanic is not figuring out what is wrong. The fuel is coming out when we place a wire from the injectors to the battery, but when we take the wire off then NO FUEL. :( Everything has just about been replaced. Can someone PLEASE give me an idea of what the heck is going on I would greatly appreciate it. I am so frustrated :mad:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Okay let's back up. Were the injectors checked for pulse with a NOID light during crank?

    Not sure exactly which component sends the impulse that tells your injectors to open, but that's where I'd look if the noid light says no impulse.
  • spence57spence57 Member Posts: 26
    Your mechanic needs to stop guessing. He should check to see that fuel is getting to the cylinders at the appropriate time, as is a strong spark. There also has to be sufficient pressure in the cylinders at the right time. If a pressure gauge indicates the
    proper compression pressures then you can assume that the cylinders and valves are in sync. You can then check the number one cylinder TDC point to make sure the timing mark corresponds with it. Then a timing light will tell you when the spark is timed for. Finally using ether will tell you whether the cylinders just aren't getting fuei.
  • bobby61bobby61 Member Posts: 1
    My wife has a 1994 Suburban, today she called me from work saying she could not turn the truck off. She said it would not turn to the back position, but it would turn to the foward or start position. I need to know how hard it is to replace the key switch. It does have tilt steering also. Thanks Bobby
  • bluesiberianbluesiberian Member Posts: 1
    I call a parts Store and a GM dealer in my area They said they dont know what a Ignition relay is. Maybe a starter relay or do u have a part number? thanks julian
  • tlaymantlayman Member Posts: 1
    I replaced the distributor on my 1994 suburban and I can't find the timing bypass connector. any help?
  • jeffrey9jeffrey9 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1990 suburban that bogs down when i give it gas. have changed fuel pump, fuel filter , pulgs , wires , drained fuel tank and changed fuel injectirs and have set the timing. it has 137,000 miles. it idles fine.
  • nash8nash8 Member Posts: 2
    Except for the year, sounds just like mine! Was recently informed by a pretty reliable source that it could be the thermo-sensor (?) in the transmission. Going to check it out as soon as I can afford it. Good luck!
  • bigd35bigd35 Member Posts: 5
    Lots of issues on this one. First off, I am dealing with the speedometer issue that I now realize is a major concern for several people. Second, I have a fuse that blows often. It is a 50 amp that controls the heated seats, power seats and passenger front and back windows. Third, my driver side rear door will not unlock. I can't even unlock it manually. It made some squealing noises prior to it breaking completely. Last issue, I am locked in 4WD HI and can not switch it back to 2WD. This has been an issue since I purchased it new in 2004.

    Any thoughts on what I should expect at the dealership?? Everything has gone downhill on this within the past 60 days.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    If they've let you live with being stuck in 4WD since the vehicle was new, and haven't fixed it.....I would expect nothing but very poor service from that dealership.

    Why have you let this obvious defect go so long? Isn't it out of warranty now?

    Regarding the 50 Amp fuse........you'll need to do some diagnosing to figure out what is shorting out the fuse. I'd disconnect all of the seats first. If it stops blowing, then start connecting back up the seats one by one until you find where the problem is.

    You'll need to take the inside door panel apart to get at the locking/unlocking mechanism.
  • spence57spence57 Member Posts: 26
    It's possible that you have an obstruction in your exhaust. I'd try to bypass your systems as much as possible. Can you check the fuel pressure or feed it from another pump and fuel can? Could something be left in your tank? Does it bog down when you rev the engine in neutral or just when you are driving?
  • tsf7tsf7 Member Posts: 31
    I have an '04 Suburban 4wd w/ G80 rear end. I purchased it in April of this year so today was my first real experience driving it in the snow. Since I purchased it at approx. 4 yrs old, I don't know how well things like differentials and the transfer case were maintained. From the Carfax, it lived in So. Cal. its whole life (now in Utah), so I am assuming the 4auto system was rarely, if ever, used during the first 65k miles, and possibly neglected as a result.

    Two issues I noticed. First, rear end clunks rather loudly when the locker engages. Is this normal? Admittedly, many of the times I was playing around and trying to make it -- the harsh clunk was probably b/c I had the other wheel spinning pretty fast already, so the engagement was more violent than it would usually be. Second, the Auto 4wd seemed to take a half second to kick in (again, screwing around, so...). Has anyone else noticed this? I have driven my dad's '99 in the snow quite a bit. On his Sub, there is no perceptible delay in engagement of the auto 4wd. I don't know if my dad's has the g80 rear end, but again, there is no noise coming from the rear when the wheels spin.

    I'm just wondering if these are signs that the systems haven't been maintained as they should, ie, the differential filled with the wrong lube and/or the t-case neglected because it was never used for 4wd. But before I spend money getting the t-case and diff. drained and refilled, I wanted to see if you all think there might be a problem, or if that is just how these trucks work. Thanks in advance.
  • suburban100suburban100 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 chevy suburban, I have added an alarm system to my vehicle. I have recently been having the problem with my doors locking when it wants to. My alarm atomatically turns on and my doors are suppose to lock but they don't most of the time. But I can leave my truck sitting for about 10 minutes turn my alarm off and on the locks. Is there some kinda power issue with these trucks on the locks or is there something I can change. Someone please help me
  • bcxlbcxl Member Posts: 2
    My 2002 Yukon XL had the same problem and no one knew the answer until luck finally came my way with a service tech at a small Chevy dealership. Seems as though a hole is factory cut in the firewall to accomodate heater/ac hoses that is not sealed and much too large for the hoses.

    The fix requires temporary removal of the wiper motor and controls (under the hood) then calking the hole. The service guy actually could put two fingers in the hole and be seen from under the dash looking up.

    I had this done last spring and now deep into the winter season and cold weather; it worked. Passengers can actually ride in the car without wrapping their legs in a blanket! I had originally thought that there was a vent issue or a leak around the fender on passenger side and searched to no avail.

    The "fix" cost me a couple of hundred bucks, but was well worth it.

    cheers,

    bc
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