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tidester
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SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
At last shudder, The Prince of Darkness was seen buying feeshing boats to use in the oil cleanup, and sending all the native fish farmers south to become coffee farmers.
And "Wreckson" continues to fight their court battle.
About the pronunciation of "Valdez" ... do this: put your mouth in a grimace, as if you're freezing to death. Now bare your teeth just a little, like you're shivering uncontrollably and trying to be happy about it. Now, holding that pose, say the word "Valdez."
See? It's not nurture, it's nature.
Any direction would be appreciated.
But I took her out last weekend and spanked her for the first time on some trails. On the way back, I was driving pretty fast down a dirt road when I hit a piece of broken pavement. Split the sidewall on the right rear tire. Another $200 there.
So, after a $700 week, I was happy to see that the boys in England didn't make me use one of those useless crank jacks to change the tire - there's a pretty high quality bottle jack under the hood that did the job just wonderfully. Entire change took less than 10 minutes - I've spent that much time just wrestling with accordion jacks in the past
Enough complaining now - Lucas has stuck my 2001 Discovery and my 'passion' (or is that anger?) for Landies is now returning again! For awhile there I thought I was driving a Toyota...
Happy Rovering!
Wasko
A contact of ours is looking for a group of luxury SUV enthusiasts who would be willing to come to Irvine, CA August 24th from 9am to 3pm for a test drive, focus group and lunch. Participants will be compensated for their time. If you are interested in participating in this event, please send an email with your contact information as well as the model vehicle you drive to: chotti@earthlink.net.
Thanks for your consideration!
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As for a "clank", that doesn't seem right. These beasts have a lot of play in the drivetrain but it's usually characterized as a "clonk". Lifting off the throttle and then gassing it at speed I feel and hear deep/heaving clonks in the drivetrain but it's obviously big heavy pieces of steel moving about. A "clank" sounds like a driveshaft noise or perhaps u-joints. Crawl under the truck and grab the driveshafts (while in park) and twist hard one way, then the other. There shouldn't be much play at all. If there is, or if you hear the same sound then try to locate it. If anything's worn it's most likely to be a u-joint; check the ends of the shafts closest to the differentials.
You can also try putting it in park and then pushing it from the front bumper... it will roll back an inch or two and then you'll hear the clonk. If it's a clank then have someone do the same pushing as you listen from the side. Is it fore or aft? Just track it down to whatever is loose.
Good luck, -Bob
It's zee tires boss, zee tires. From the flatlands of LA to AR to NM to CO to UT and back. What a ride. I want to post more later, particularly specifics about offroad experiences and unique handling experiences like the HDC, braking, etc., but my primary concern at the moment is the tires, 18 inchers to be exact that come with the ACE system. There is ABSOLUTELY NO QUESTION that thew DII will handle most everything you put it though offroad; it is just one MAGNIFICENT vehicle that keeps going and going, especially compared to the Grand Cherokee.
With such tremendous offroad capability and endurance, why oh why would the Brits put low profile touring tires on it. They don't do rocks very well, if at all, and boy do they go flat easily. Its like putting ballerina slippers on Hulk Hogan. On Rocks, they are in SEVERE DANGER of pinching because of the low profile, even inflated in the rear to the recommended 48 psi. And I guarantee you if you run 28 psi in the front for rock crawling, they will pinch. Even at 48, there precioous little space with the pich down, less that 1/2". It's enough to make me yearn for those big fat 16 inchers you see on the Toyota 4-Runners.
Negociating sand and mud with these tires is also very difficult because of lack of traction, which is not helped with the high psi; but if you're alternating sand and rock stretches of roads like in Moab, UT, you can't constantly be inflating and deflating. So on a long sandy stretch you get a little momentum going and hope for the best while watching the Traction System light up like a xmas tree on your dashboard. Steep rocky and loose sandy inclines, or muddy ones, are the same and unnerving when the drop off to your immediate right is a long way down and the trail "ain't" so wide to start off with. I saw a Jeep Wrangler with decent off road tires make a rocky/sandy ascent quite easily compared to what my DII had to do; that is keep up speed, but not too much because you still have rocks to negociate.
And the flats. Four in all. One the tire repair shop could not find the problem until he removed the tire from the rim and found a piece of wire about the width of a human hair. He could not believe it punctured the tire. Another was a SMALL ROCK. It had to be repaired with a plug because the shop didn't have the equipment to handle an 18" rim.
I also see a post above about a sidewall blowout from hitting broken pavement. Although the tire size is not stated, that sounds like an 18 incher pinching. The cost of $200 sounds like an 18 incher too.
When I bought her (2001 SE7 w/ACE), I expressed concern about the low profile tires off road, but was told they would not be a problem. WRONG. In fact, on one particular pass in Silverton, CO, a local told me he would not attempt it with "those tires". 16" Goodyear Wranglers would be fine, though.
I've looked high and low for a more suitable 18" off road tire to no avail. They are all "touring" models. So unless someone lets me know of a better option, it looks like I may have to spend the money to get a 16" set of rims and decent tires on them. It is a shame that a vehicle like this with such great off road ability comes equipped with tires that won't do the job, nor can you get any that will without changing rims.
Like I said, I will post more later about this incredible climbing/decending machine. It has some awesome features and ability.
Given that statement, I think you should buy a lightly used Toyota Land Cruiser. It will give you 80% of the Disco's off--road ability, 110% of the Disco's on-road ability, and 200% of the Disco's reliability.
I love Land Rovers. but if little bothersome, warranty repairs, glitches and 'issues" will cause you strife, then the Discovery is not for you.
I'm actually quite fond of the last generation Land Cruiser which was replaced in '98. It had a big, torquey, bullet proof 4.2 liter straight six, could be had with 3 locking diffs, and was even more the Disco's equal off-road. A nice '96 or '97 will cost you ten grand less then a new Discovery and give you WAY fewer headaches.
http://www.edmunds.com/used/1996/toyota/landcruiser/4drstd4wdwagon/prices.html
I live a solid 2 hours from the nearest Rover dealer and plan on buying a used Disco in a couple of years. But mine will be out of warranty, and I -lan to do most of the work on it myslelf. Or, I have good, local shops that can work on it.
P.S. if I can get the vin # can you run a check on it for me. Once again I appreciate your help.
You can find these guys at Roverparts.com
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How to avoid "steering shake"
A very common symptom in Classic Range Rovers (and Series I Discos -ed.) is a very bad shake in the steering when hitting road bumps -- especially on curves. It often goes on for several seconds, and can be caused by several possible culprits. Here are some simple things you can do to check the problems yourself:
Power Steering Box - If your steering box is leaking, and it probably is if you haven’t already replaced it, we offer rebuilt steering boxes to solve the problem. If there is excessive play in the steering box it can be adjusted, best left to a mechanic familiar with Range Rovers.
Rear Trailing Arm Bushing - These may be failing - to check, get a straight, fairly smooth section of highway, get to about 40 mph then step on the gas and then let off. Repeat several times. If you have to compensate with the steering wheel you probably have bad rear trailing arm bushings.
Pan Hard Rod Bushing Kit - These may be spent - to check, start the car (in Park, of course), open the driver's side window, stand beside the car and move the steering wheel back and forth (about 25 degrees). If you see the front wheels still and the body moving the chances are you have bad pan hard rod bushings (be sure to change the nuts & bolts when doing the job!).
Tie Rod Ends - Check the tie rod ends for play. Always change them in pairs.
Bilstein Steering Damper - Acting like a shock absorber for your steering wheel, the Bilstein Steering Damper is a definite upgrade over your stock damper (which often suffers leaks leading to poor performance).
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also, ABS system seems to engage with minimal braking at VERY slow speeds. is this a problem or does the ABS in the rover just coddle you more than lesser vehicles?
thanks.
Hmmmmmmmm, your ABS is that sensitive? I activate mine ALL THE TIME in winter, but only very rarely offroad... and that's only under *very* aggressive driving.
Those two together make me wonder about your ABS sensor on the front left wheel. I wonder if it's pushed in too far? It lives in a hole thru a shim stack (that adjusts the swivel pin preload) and I know on the DI it's possible to get it pushed in too far. Not real sure if this is true with the DII, but take a look. See if it "looks" the same as the right side.
Just a hunch, -Bob
it is a trapped rabbit (cat, guinea pig, fox or hedgehog) trying to free itself
it is a chap who made the disco who got built into the chassis by falling asleep on the job
it is a spring in the engine (gear box, aircon) that came loose
it is the clockwork mechanism known to exist in all landrovers that goes "bong" every time it needs wound up
Anyone got a better - or even the right - idea ?
Two turns on the 20mm bolt and no more noise.
I've heard that this problem is very common on older Discos and would like to have Land Rover address the issue with a technical upgrade to ensure I am not in this same boat again next year.
Total repair costs look to be around $1200-1500 dollars. Is this typical as well?
There is a technical solution involving "carbon cutting" valves. Their stems have a sharp lip on the stem that rides inside the valev guide, preventing buildup of gum (unburnt fuel/oil). It only occurs on the exhaust valves and no amount of additives will prevent it. Periodically driving the hell out of your truck will sometimes prevent it happening.
Are you sure it's sticking, to the point of a diagnosed misfire? ODBII will store those codes. Does downshifting and flooring it seem to get your power back? Is there a noticeable loss of power? It's also common to hear valvetrain tick on these engines... and those are two radically different problems.
If it's valvetrain tick with no power loss, then try changing oil and filter a couple times frequently (10-30w) to scrub her out. I'd do it at 200 mile intervals 2 or 3 times.
Can you provide more details? If you do have the carbon cutting valves put in, it should never come back. I had it done at 20k miles and now at 75k I've had zero trouble in 3.5 years.
Whoops! Lord Lucas you DID NOT hear that!!
*grin*
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
YEAH!!!!!!!!!
Do any of you know of any apple cider mills in the Seattle area? Web searches are coming up empty.
Coming from Michigan, this was part of our fall routine - visiting the mills for cider and fresh donuts. As it starts to rain a bit and the nights are getting colder, I'm remembering back to fond trips in the '96 DI to cider mills around MI.
Thanks and Happy Rovering, wasko
thanks for any help, Joe
It was a nippy bike ride this morning, but it has warmed up to 45F again. Not quite time for the studs yet!
-Bob
Odiopus
Also, you cant let anybody know you're rich with a minivan.
Gotta have the SUV!
http://cartalk.cars.com/About/Ford-Excursion/
So far (16K) no major problems, except excessive
wear of both front tires. Judging from the wear pattern,
looks like alignment problem. "Service advisor"
suggested rotating tires (for a $45 fee)...
The book calls for 28psi front and 38psi rear, if I remember. That's partly to guarantee understeer in corners, probably to minimize rollover potential in abrupt lane changes. When I still had my stock tires I bumped the fronts up to 34psi and the rears stayed at 38. I had better handling, better mileage and the treadwear was better. Yours might likewise benefit. But you're on your own as far as risk goes... I'm only offering opinion.
The alignment should be about zero toe. I believe mine is set 1/8" toe-out from straight ahead.
When you have it jacked/blocked up to rotate the tires yourself, check your brake pads. I go thru a set of front pads every 15-17k miles. They are a snap to replace, it's a very gratifying job. When you swap your tires front to back (same side) make sure to reset your pressures.
Best regards, -Bob