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I have an 07 Chev Suburban LT 4x4 with the 5.3 flex fuel with 128k miles (I drive alot) that seems to have a mind of it's own. Here are my issues:
Idles rough (missing)
Check engine light comes on randomly
Traction Control/Stabilitrak light (chimes) come on randomly - sometimes I am stopped in park - sometimes at a stop light - sometimes driving freeway speeds - very random.
When starting up a small incline she will chug or hesitate and the way I get it to go away is give it more gas or take my foot off the gas.
Hesitates on start like battery is almost dead yet the indicator says it's fine.
The rough idle and chug on hills started first - then a few weeks later the check engine light and traction control/stabilitrac started.
Any thoughts? We are flat broke (construction) - am getting ready to list this for sale when all this started happening so we don't have a couple hundred to throw at a dealer for diagnostics - are hoping it's spark plug wire, fuel filter something like that that we can tackle. We had the fuel pump replaced almost a year ago at the dealer.
Also - where is the fuel filter? Is it in the gas tank like the pump therefore it's a lifetime one?
Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!
Blessings
Norene Beaver
Good Luck.
Check your oil. If it looks like chocolate milk, bingo!
I have a 2002 Suburban and a few weeks ago the battery seemed to die. I replaced it with a new one, even though it wasn't that old. Then only a couple weeks after that my wife called me and said it was dead again. I couldn't see how. So after much research I figured it was some parasitic draw on the battery. I hooked up my digital multimeter and traced noticed the drain. It wasn't consistent at all. I would see a little over 3 amp draw then it would settle down to about .6 amp, then back up and so on. After sitting in the car I realized that the radio was cycling ever so often. I could tell because I could hear the CD player run like it was ejecting a CD. This is all with the key out of the ignition and no power on the radio.
One of the posts I read mentioned something about the SEO1 fuse being for OnStar. Since the OnStar doesn't work anymore I figured that would disable it. Tried it again and still the radio is resetting. BTW if I set the clock on the radio and wait for it to cycle then turn the key on the time on the clock resets to 1:00. I have also seen, on occasion the clock on the radio read ---.
At this point I figured it was a wiring problem so I took the radio out of the dash and I does look like a mouse was in there. However; I can't seem to find any wires that are compromised. Also if I wiggle them it doesn't change the behavior.
Anyone have any ideas or suggestions of other things to try? Is it possible that the radio really is the culprit even though when powered on it works fine?
Thanks in advance,
Rindress
I have heard theories that the Body Control Module could be the culprit, but people's anecdotes were not consistent on this matter.
What further steps can I take to troubleshoot this effectively?
How do I get rid of it?
This wheel was in trunk for an extended period with spare on the ground.
When tire was replaced and wheel put back in place - the warning light would not go off.
Here's just a couple;
Bulletin No: 08-07-30-016
08/07/2008
Summary Description: DIAGNOSTIC INFORMATION ON MH1, MN8, MT1, M15 TRANSMISSION SLIPS, WILL NOT SHIFT OR MAY OVERHEAT, SES/MIL MAY BE ILLUMINATED, DTCS P0218, P0894 SET. *PE UPDATED 8/12/08. *PE
Bulletin No: 4133
09/26/2007
Summary Description: TRANSMISSION SLIPS, WILL NOT SHIFT, SES LIGHT MAY BE ILLUMINATED. *KB
Bulletin No: 060604042
01/25/2007
Summary Description:
LR4, LY2, L33, LH6, LM7, L59, LC9, LMG, LY5, LS2, LQ9, LQ4, L76, LY6 THROTTLE ACTUATOR CONTROL (TAC). MODULE CODES, MIL/SES DTC'S P2108, P1516, U0107, REDUCED ENGINE POWER. *KB
Bulletin No: 3893
09/28/2006
Summary Description:
LOSS OF IGNITION 1 VOLTAGE TO THE IGNITION COILS. CONSUMER EXPERIENCED INTERMITTENT STALL, MISFIRE, OR CRANK NO START. THERE MAY BE NO TROUBLE CODES SET. *KB UPDATED 3/17/09. *PE
Bulletin No: 50730017
11/08/2005
Summary Description:
4L60-E/4L65-E AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION/TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH (TCC) SHUDDER, WATER IN TRANSMISSION. *TT
Print out the ones your vehicle is showing symptoms, take it to the Best GM dealer nearby, take some Apples, Donuts or Eye-Candy for bribery purposes.
Sugar gets more results than bitchin.
http://www.ownersite.com/tsb/tsbs.cfm/2006/CHEVROLET/SUBURBAN%201500/
DrVette
Here the issue/fix: If you remove the plastic cover on the motor (5/16" bolt) what appears to be a main harness that comes from the box just behind the battery crosses over the top of the engine. There are a few looms that branch off at the rear of the motor one of which contains a single wire (black w/ white stripe) that goes to ground on the rear of the motor just to the passenger side of center. The wire was corroded and heat damaged (dry, brittle) and easily broke off when I tugged on it (Only one strand of wire still still connected). The wire connects to the motor with a 13mm bolt vertically about four inches below the rear of the intake runners (I used a 1/4" drive 13mm deep socket with a three inch extension) It is a little awkward but still fairly easy to reach. I have no idea what system this wire is part of but when it was disconnected the car wouldn't start and then it didn't seem to recognize that the key was off and out of the ignition (The radio stayed on even after the door was opened and the CEL stayed lit), once I grounded the wire everything turned off. The wire was pretty much exact length so after I cut off the brittle part I had to add a length of wire so it was long enough to reach back to the bolt, I then crimped on a new ring connector, bolted it back on and the problem was solved.
I hope this helps.
One point I'd like to make, crimping wires on low-voltage connections is risky.
A more permanent solution is to solder them. Wal-Mart has a Ronson Butane Lighter for three bucks, Lowes' has some small spools of acid-free silver solder.
Also, FYI a small break in the insulation on lo-volt wires can set up corrosion which is Not visible.
This is especially problematic on engine sensor wires where the voltage is often 5vdc or so.
On a Roadmaster SW, the ATS in the breather showed bad, a New unit still gave a code, checking the weather-tite connections indicated good conn, hmm..
A close look at the wire and an indention was there, someone had closed the wire between the breather lid [TBI Engine] looking at the indention and a small slit appeared, I opened up the insulation and it the wire was GREEN with corrosion.
30+yrs at Southern Co reminded me of a statement,
"electricity travels on the outside of the wire, not the inside"
The wire was not broken, the green stuff kept the 5v signal from traveling.
Cut it out, heat shrink up the wire, a dot of silver solder and it ran perfect, WITH the original ATS !
I'm SO happy someone used their head to find the issue, your method of wriggling the wires while in Drive with an assistant is a new one for me, and I've done this for over 5 decades..
Learning Still
Rusty Wrench
aka
DrVette
"the left front wheel bearing is so bad it looks like the wheel is ready to fall off"
The following is for 2wd Only.
If yours is 4wd, another procedure is required.
The ball joint check for 4wd is not known by me.
The only way you'd know if the wheel brg is bad is to either Hear it or Jack it up and grab the top and bottom of the wheel to check for play.
If the wheel is sitting at an angle, then most likely your ball joint is worn out.
GM has a wear indicator built in ball joints, the grease fitting.
Clean the area around the grease fitting on the ball joints, wire brush them etc. Note the Hex on the fitting where it's screwed in.
If the bottom of the Hex on the grease fitting is flush with the ball joint, then the service life has been reached.
DUHRusty Wrench
aka DrVette
Your mech may be correct, many sensors, solenoids in the trans, , electrical wire connector problems, faulty ECM/PCM etc can all cause shifting issues.
also, [in 87-95 the TV Cable adjustment or TV may have debris]
However, it IS possible that the DRAC is sending erratic signals to your ECM/PCM .
GM issued a TSB for bad DRAC units, TSB Bulletin No.: 448301
Since I have NO idea what year you have, here's a generic usage of a DRAC
For several years, GM used a Digital Ratio Adapter Controller (DRAC), otherwise known as a speed buffer.
The buffer could fail in such a way that the signal to the instrument cluster was fine,
yet the signal into the computer was either erratic or nonexistent.
This would cause either no upshift or erratic shifting complaints.
And since the instrument cluster was providing a good vehicle speed signal, the buffer was often overlooked as being the cause of the problem.
Rusty Wrench
Aka
DrVette
5.3 Ltr engine
164,000 miles
My Suburban has a major oil leak but I cannot see where it is leaking from. With the car in park, if I idle for about 5 minutes it starts to leak like a faucet turned on just above a drip.
Probably related to this issue is the fact that the car has been loosing a large amount of coolant over the last few years. I usually only drive the car 2000 miles a year. Over a two week period I could have to put in 1/2 gallon of water, but sometimes it would be 2 months before I would need this much. It seems like in summer it would burn less. I did not see a leak anywhere or out of the weep hole. The coolant has likely been leaking into the engine oil, because the color quickly because a rust like color even soon after I change the oil. Also there would be some amount of gunk that would drain with the oil.
I have looked all around under the hood but it cannot be seen from there. Underneath the vehicle the oil is dripping closer to the middle of the vehicle, coming from right above the transmission pan. It is not transmission fluid and I have had several people verify the color matches the oil color on the dipstick, and not the transmission fluid color. It is coming from above the transmission and dripping right across the transmission cable and around that side of the transmission pan, but I cannot see above there.
Before I take it to a mechanic I would like to have a rough idea of what both of these problems could be: First the coolant leak, and secondly the oil leak. The first problem probably caused the second, and I’m sure I did not help matters by continuing to drive it for so long while the coolant leak was happening.
Can someone please reply with what the cause of these issues may be and any rough estimate on what it would cost to fix it?
I'm on here to try and find some info on the new suburbans. I know the 2007 through 2010 suburbans are notorious to having many problems with the engine and electrical components along with oil consumption and door locks etc... I want to know if the newer suburbans 2010 and newer have any of these problems? So if you have anything please reply.
Thank you!
My brother-in-law has a 2008 Avalanche and he replaces the front brakes AND rotors two or three times a year. I got 16,000 miles out of the original front brakes and rotors. I then ground out the space a few thousands of an inch on the calipers to give the pads a little more room to slide. I now have 47,000 miles on it and the brakes and rotors are still good. And my gas mileage increased by about two miles per gallon. I tried to tell GM about their design problem, but they just look at me like I'm nuts. Why should they fix the problem while the dealers can make tons of money repairing brakes?
When first shown up it appeared like I just drove over a big and solid something and it dragged underneath the engine a few feet. Nothing there.
30 miles before this it was on a 2000 mile Interstate trip (daughter driving). Nothing noticed then.
I suspect a very bad hub bearing, due to where it comes from, but could be from the front differential. Or a U-joint, but I have never experienced a bad U joint this bad a jerk. Will go to shop shortly, if I can get that far.
Goes into each setting of FWD in and out no trouble.
Is there a limited slip type differential? Inspection underneath shows nothing unusual
Instead, I also now wonder if the jerks come due to the 4H tying to engage, with that shifting piston acting up. Also, wold the switches be in the picture?
I'm looking for a checklist for rehabbing a 97 Burb 2WD that's been sitting in a barn for 2.5 years. When the vehicle was put up everything was running normally but nothing was done to store it properly. What I'm looking for is a checklist that I can go through to make sure that I don't damage anything when getting it back running.
If any of the more capable techs here would respond I would really appreciate it. If you do respond could you include the priority of the steps. I am on a budget and I'm not sure I will be able to do everything on the first day. I will probably do most of the work to save on labor.
SM
1. Drain fuel tank---either you'll have to suck the old fuel out with a pump or drop the tank. Add fresh fuel
2. Change fuel filter and buy a spare one
3. Replace the battery, clean the cable ends.
4. Remove the spark plugs and squirt a teaspoon of light oil (ATF, Marvel Mystery Oil, etc) into each hole and let it sit for a little while. Replace plugs.
5. If you can, use a socket wrench to turn the engine by hand to make sure it is free. If so, go to #6
6. Check oil and coolant levels
7. Crank 'er up. Have a fire extinguisher at hand if you can.
8. Once it starts, let the engine idle, and check for fuel, oil, coolant leaks. CHECK THE BRAKE PEDAL for firmness. CHECK YOUR OIL PRESSURE warning light.
Phase II
Once running, take the car out for a short drive. Check the tires to see if they have sidewall cracks or if they are heavily flat-spotted (you'll feel that as you drive). Minor little cracks might be okay. Flat-spotting may improve as you drive.
After returning to the storage area, drain the oil and filter.
Phase III
After you are sure the truck can run reliably and start reliably, you have the option of draining the coolant and flushing the brake system, based on your own observations and judgment.
If the thumping and flat-spotting has not gone away with regard to tires, you'll have to replace them.
If the coolant hoses seems old and squishy to the touch, or if the drive belts are glazed or cracked, replace them.
SM
I have put some Sea foam into the oil after some research it has become quiet again.
Any thoughts on keeping or selling? The dealer offered me 19.5k and net 52k on a new LTZ.
Should I lease or buy?
Thanks Mark
Nothing in a can is going to replace worn metal in other words, but a detergent action could help a stuck lifter.
I'd say, on a guess, that your mechanic misdiagnosed your problem. He couldn't possibly know about bad rocker arms without disassembly and measuring.