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The biggest headaches will be electrical, and often the simplest problem will manifest in truly bizarre ways. Once you get past that down to the hard parts, you're going to fall in love with this truck. You'll need big wrenches for chassis and suspension work, and some odd sizes. Other tricks abound, such as the oil pan drain bolt being 1-1/8" (just the same as the lug nuts).
There's another very active discussion board, full of very knowledgeable people from all over the world. If you approach them sincerely they'll bend over backward to help:
About the auction, it's pretty important to run down the vehicle history by VIN at a Rover dealership to see how the truck has been maintained. You want to make sure she's had plenty of regular fluid changes, and as much documentation as possible. An ideal truck will have a fully complete Passport To Service. Fluid change neglect will show up in an all-alloy engine as premature (EXPENSIVE) wear. The auto trans is pretty much bullet-proof, as is the xfer case. If it has aftermarket lockers in the diffs then see if the owner put in upgraded axles. If not, walk away. If it's lifted, did the prior owner upgrade radius/trailing arms and drive shafts? Is it sagging on the offside aft corner? Also look for corrosion at the bottom aft corners of the rear seat door openings, there will be "a little" there, but better not be very much. Look at the big bolts underneath... has the long-term accumulated crud been cracked away from wrenches? If so, what was replaced?
I can't think of anything else, other than... if you've done a brake job on your Turbo Coupe, you're going to LOVE doing it on a Disco. It's like heaven with wrenches.
Get used to loving the truck early on, because when (not 'if') the nagging problems appear it's the affection alone that will keep her in the driveway. I had a thought this morning on my commute: owning an early Series Rover is like living with a child for years... they complain but they're easily dealt with using simple remedies. Owning a Disco is more like living with an adolescent for years... they have complaints which are more sophisticated and will take more effort to address... and will make you nuts dealing with them. Once dealt with, the good stuff comes pouring back again.
Good luck, -Bob
Many people quickly realize you don't want to replace tinfoil springs more than once, so if they're unlucky enough to replace them on their own nickel they go with Old Man Emu springs or other alternates.
Take a look at the Discoweb, there's a tech section that's loaded with good info.
Hanging out with my service guys at LR (which I get to do quite often , we got on the subject of Range Rover repairs one day.
They were mentioning that if you dent a rim that it costs $600 to replace the rim.
One oxygen sensor for your exhaust is $200, one catalytic converter is around $1800, the complete exhaust assembly (minus catalytic) would be somewhere between $500-700. So, replace the entire exhaust system (plus labor) and you're looking at around $2700-2800.
Not sure what air suspension costs to get fixed, but I would think that it isn't cheap.
I personally would pay the $2700 for the extended warranty. If you never use it, consider yourself fortunate! If you need to use it, you'll be glad you have it - kinda like homeowners insurance.
I was on another mailing list for Disco's and a lot of the guys there were buying 3rd party warranties for their Discos - goto www.msn.com and search for: auto warranty --- you'll get quite a few hits. In some cases, these can be half of the dealer's warranty, and some have a deductible (like the first $50-200 of a repair), which may make great sense.
I put in a 98 Range Rover, 32,000 miles, with manufacturer's warranty still left on the vehicle and I received the following from http://www.auto-extended-car-warranty.com/:5 Years 75000 miles $2195
So, if you're not opposed to paying a deductible and waiting 30-60 days for reimbursement, an aftermarket warranty may be a good option.
Thanks - wasko
There are lots of very knowledgeable folk over there.
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