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The only way to avoid that, is to transport your new car to your state, where you will register, and pay sales tax there.
Check the laws of your particular state BEFORE you purchase.
What I'm saying if you add more options,there are more rooms for negotiation.
So I suggest $6K is a starting point because MSRP $49K.
27 Months
10k Per Year
$48,109 MSRP
$1,000 drive off (cash)
$1,000 loyalty (second RX in 18 months)
$510/mo
Good Deal?
2013 RX350 FWD
Package Options:(FT, 3T, WU, NV, HS, PA)
RX350FWD base price: $39,310
Package Options: $5,274
Destination Charge: $895
MSRP Price: $45,479
Location: Bay Area California
Realistically speaking can I ask for a $6k off MSRP price? I want to set a price but wanting to be realistic also. Any help is greatly appreciated.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I've gone to one of the local Lexus dealers here in the DC area twice. The first time was to drive the RX and the RX F-Sport. I didn't even know about the RX F-Sport but after I saw it and drove it, I really felt that was the preferred car of the two. The salesman told me then that most of the RX F-Sports on their lot will come with everything (like Navi). The only extra thing to really choose would be Blind Spot indicator at an extra $500.
He said I'd be at $51k-ish for it. For the Non-F-sport equipped the same, I'd be at $49k-ish. When we talked price, we were looking at $50k + $3500 in fees (that's the way they divided it up on the paper.)
Looking at Truecar.com, I'm not sure what the exact likely models on their lot they had, but I know that the 2013 Lexus RX 350 AWD 4dr F Sport configured with:
NAVIGATION PACKAGE at $2,775 (which includes the LEXUS DISPLAY AUDIO PACKAGE at $860)
INTUITIVE PARKING ASSIST at $500
BLIND SPOT MONITOR at $500
would put me at:
$47,000 + $3,775 in options + $895 destination = $51,670 before the Tax, Tags/License
TrueCar's average paid pricing has:
$44,736 (base) + $3,359 (options) + $705 (Regional Ad Fees) + $895 Destination = $49,696
TrueCar is saying that my Target price should be $50,411, giving me a Potential Savings of $1,259
I'm liking what I'm seeing here about $6k off MSRP being what to shoot for, but I don't know if I could aim for that much off on the F-Sport since that's a bit higher in demand? Perhaps on a Non F-Sport RX.
Is there anyone else considering the 2013 Lexus RX F-Sport?
I'm heading back there again to see what they would give for a trade-in for my IS 350. And to see how much lower I can push the price. I'd like a number to push towards that's unreachable on their end so I can easily walk. I want to see how low they can go but don't want to commit to anything today. I still want to visit Acura one more time with my trade-in as well (I talk about Acura pricing here if anyone is interested).
I know the RDX is cheaper and RX is the better car, but I only want to commit to the RX if the price window between the two is at a certain point. OTherwise, I'll go with the RDX.
I, too, considered Acura when I purchased my new RX350. I love it.
My suggestion is to call several dealers and tell them that whoever meets your price that you'll buy from them.
I'd be firm as to your price. Take 10% off the total MSRP. Don't back down and also say No Doc fee.
You can also ask the sales rep to check the inventory of other nearby dealers.
From my experience and what I've heard is that you can always get below invoice. For a $50,000+ RX, you should be able to get it for 10% off.
Steve
Make sure you put yourself in the controlling position. Make your offer to them, not vise versa.
Good luck.
Steve
Usually the December event ,as well as other NATIONAL events which is sponsored by the Lexus Factory, means they are making a incentive to the dealers, so that they can offer you a lower price, as they get extra money from the factory.
If you need the car sooner, then as other said he..go with his ideas now.
Good luck and let us know how it works out ?
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That is a fantastic price.
What are the interest rate they are offering.
Thank You.
They are offering 1.9% for upto 60 months, plus $1000 loyalty discount if financed or leased from lexus.
Thank You.
thanks.
It's best to not ask the sales rep for a quote. You quote a price to them so that you are in control.
That way you can get 10% or more by forcing the manager to enter the picture .
Steve
Hope this helps and good luck.
The stories I am reading here on this forum almost seem too good to be true ($6k below MSRP, etc). How the heck do they drop the price that far? What am I missing?
BTW - I am not trading in my old SUV, I have a family member buying it.
Thanks for any insight.
The mistake you've been making is when you ask the sales rep for a quote. Give them your price which should be a specific number which should be approx. 11% off MSRP.
Once you do that the sales rep will bring the manager into the discussion.
Don't tell them how you arrived at that price except to say that you will buy today if they meet your price.
Also say no to Documentation fees.
Do the negotiation on the phone.
It's best to do this on the last week of the month.
Good luck
Steve
Thanks for the advice, makes good sense. Interested in why to say no to the documentation fees, they're peanuts in comparison to the rest of the deal.
Just to be clear, I didn't ask the one salesman for the price when I visited the showroom, he just threw the $1k off at me as we were wrapping up and that's when I headed for the door.
WES
I have an existing Lexus so should be able to get loyalty discounts etc.
Any idea, what could be a bottom line price which I can offer to the dealers? One vehicle I liked had MSRP of $51925.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated for a first time lease buyer so I can avoid costly mistakes.
rk
I've seen documentation fees as high as $500 and $600. I fight for every dime.
I even balked at a $29 charge (on a $50,000 car) for Massachusetts license plate fee. I didn't need to pay that since I live in NH. After insisting they remove it, they did so.
Good luck, hope it helps.
Steve
Steve
I felt it was worth the 60 miles (120 round trip) to save $750. I still intend to have it serviced at my local dealer.
I'm surprised your dealer felt it was a "hassle" to save $1000 with a 150-200 mile drive. It makes perfect sense to me.
So you discovered that when the dealer feels they are not competing with other dealers, they can charge what they want. Its like a mini-monopoly.
At the end of the month you have lots of leverage.
Also, make sure the sales rep is forced to have the sales manager or general manager enter the negotiation. Typically as sales rep can go as low to a certain point, below which they need to escalate the process. I never buy a car without forcing management to get involved. Why would anyone do otherwise?
Good luck.
Steve
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Steve - the doc fees in Ohio are much less, we paid $250 for wife's G37x in '09. But I like that idea of telling them to pay it.
Thanks for the help!
WES
As for doc fees they are dealer specific. Each dealer decides what they want to charge.
In South Florida I've seen them as low as $395 and as high as $795. In Mass, they seem to be less; $300-$500. In NH I've seen them no higher than $400.
In all cases you can negotiate them; most often they can reduce the price of the car somewhat, but it's work on your part. They whine about the cost of the paperwork, but shouldn't that be included in the price as the cost of doing business. They don't charge you a fee for electricity, employee health ins, lawn care, bldg maintenance, etc. Its a crock...
Good luck.
Steve
Steve
The end of month is the best time and provides the most leverage on the buyers part.
I also like to use round numbers. Also, say no to documentation fees. For your model I'd offer $46,000. Maybe go to up to $46,400 if forced, but not higher. If they balk tell them you will call other dealers.
Of course then you add state sales tax and license plate fees, but no dealer documentation fees.
Good luck.
Steve
Steve
Thanks
WES
As for eliminating holdback don't believe anything a sales rep says. That's a strict rule.
Another rule is not to disclose how you arrived at your quote. It just puts you on the defensive. Don't even discuss holdback, invoice, etc.
I just tell them that in order to earn my business this is my price.
Steve
I almost left this dealership(@Steven Creek) when I had bad experience with ANOTHER sale person. This person made me feel “very stupid” when I mentioned the internet price. Her/His sharp tone humiliated and forced me to agree with her/his number. I felt so degraded. I would not deal with her/him again. This sale person might have had a bad Thanksgivings weekend. BUT I forgive her/him!!
If you want to get a good deal, contact Edward H.
Brian C., Finance manager is a nice guy. He gave me a good deal for extended warranty 8yrs/100K for $1900.
I will give Lexus@Steven Creek a good review after all.
I posted back in late october that I was eying the RDX, RX, and X3. For the RX, I was really interested in the 2013 RX F-Sport, but that didn't work out (I'll give details in a later post).
The 2013 Lexus RX 350 I'm now eying is a non-F-Sport. the details on it are:
$40,710 for the model MSRP
+ $7,960 for the optional equipment (Comfort Pkg, 12 speaker premium audio package, navigation system, park assist, premium package w/ blind spot monitor, wood & leather steering and shift, and cargo mat, net, wheel locks, and key gloves)
+ $895 Delivery
= $49,565 total MSRP
If I could do 10-12% off that, I'd be at around $44,500. If they gave me the $1k off because of my 2008 IS 350 purchase, I should be getting $1k off putting me at $43,500.
Then I would have to add on these fees for MD which are:
1) Tax: 6%; however I do have a trade in valued somewhere between $16.5k and $18k which should lower that tax amount
2) Tags/License Plates: a $100 to a few hundred (I think, can't remember)
3) Dealer processing fee: $200
So this is the picture I believe I'm looking at if I go the RX route. Looking to see from you guys if people are getting better.
All that being said, I think the RDX is the lead contender for me. The best prices I'm seeing others get for the 2013 RDX AWD w/ Tech Package seem to be $36,500-$37, 250 before the fees (Processing, Sale Tax, License Plate, and whatever else the state may have. For example VA has a Purchaser's Online System Filing Fee and Dealer Business License Tax but I haven't seen that mentioned in any of my MD discussions). That's up to a $7k price diff.