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Isuzu Trooper Start Problems
troopscoop8
Member Posts: 1
in Isuzu
Trying to find out if I am wasting my time attempting to switch my starter out on my 00 trooper. I have the tools, but am unsure if it would be worth taking to the pro's to do. Is it possible to do? If so, how long will it take? Any recomendations??? Thanks,
TroopScoop
TroopScoop
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REMOVAL
Battery ground cable.
Disconnect Heated O2 Sensor connector (1).
Remove exhaust front left pipe (2).
Remove heat protector (3).
Disconnect starter wiring connector from terminals "B" and "S" (4).
Remove starter assembly mounting bolts on inside and outside (5).
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a5529d!v=
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a5529c!v=
Remove starter assembly toward the bottom of engine (6).
INSTALLATION
Install starter assembly (6).
Install mounting bolts and tighten bolts to specified torque (5). Torque: 40 Nm (30 lb ft)
Reconnect the connectors to terminals "B" and "S" and tighten Terminals "B" to specified torque. Torque: 9 Nm (80 lb in)
Install heat protector (3).
Install exhaust front left pipe and tighten bolts and nuts to specified torque (2). Stud Nuts Torque: 67 Nm (49 lb ft) Nuts Torque: 43 Nm (32 lb ft)
Connect Heated 02 Sensor connector (1).
Reconnect the battery ground cable.
I have replaced the starter on a 1995 and a 1992 trooper and it isn't to much trouble. There is only two bolts that hold the starter up and you can get them out by using a long extension on your ratchet. You can remove the wires to the solenoid before or after you remove the mounting bolts, whatever is easier for you, BUT MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE CABLES FROM THE BATTERY unless you like to see sparks flying from under you car LOL. There is a trick I have learned to get the started out without removing any of the exhaust or A-Frame to the front left wheel. The starter must comes out twords the front of the vehicle. You have to remove a vaccum line that is in the front drive shaft. It sits on top of the shaft and goes straight down into it. You will see what I am talking about when you get under there. Then bend the bracket that holds a couple wire harnesses up slightly to make some more room. Now the Trick is to TURN the front wheels all the way to the RIGHT. This will make enough room for the starter to come out in between the front drive shaft and the steering linkages to the front wheels. You have to position the starter just right but trust me it comes out. Put the new one in the same way you removed the old one and your done. Since the starter is like $200.00 all by itself I would hate to see what they would charge you to replace it at a shop. Hope this helps. Good luck!!
Some mechanic from Trapper Creek stopped and messed with the distributor cap and got the timing adjusted enough to get it going and I got back home fine. Or maybe he fixed a flaky ground while fooling with the cap, since clicking usually means the relay or starter solenoid. Since the starter checks out, I'd check the battery connections at both ends before checking the cap, but who knows.
Well, someone here should know better than me. :shades:
I hope this helps. Are you sure the fuel line is OK now? Cranking on a starter for long periods will overheat it and eventually kill it. Trying to crank with low voltage and a dragging starter have been known to keep an engine from starting due to the electonic ignition not having enough volts to fire the system. Good luck. If you need more help, post again. I don't have a manual at home for your vehicle, but will check again Monday at work. Let us know how you do...
so i cross the starter to get it going drove it do the road and back shut it of and it started right back up drove it all the next day started up just fine then it done it again i push it off and no it doing it and wont start it like the battery deed but it check out ok so any one have a clue what it mite be i was think starter relay but i'm not sure is there in help out there
I'm having a problem on cold mornings with a sluggish starter. The battery is nearly new and checks good. The alternator seems to be working fine and shows about 13 volts at idle and normal driving. The trooper has a feature where the alternator kicks out under a load or during acceleration. This makes it difficult/impossible for the parts places to check the alternator. Their meters require you to rev the engine whick causes the alternator to kick out and the meter says it has a problem, but I don't think it does as the guage shows it charging good during normal driving. I am wondering if the starter may be getting weak. It is a 97 trooper with the 3.2 and cranks fine after it has warmed up. Anyone have any suggestions.
I have a 99 trooper and i'm having problems with the starter, initially I drove the trooper to a store locally and when I attempted to restart the vehicle it made no noise what so ever. The dash lights came on and blinked when the key was engaging the starter, the headlights appeared strong. I towed the trooper home and after some investigating took the battery out to have it bench tested at autozone. The result was a bad battery, I bought a new battery, but again no noise from the starter, but the dash lights stayed on durning the process. I then checked the relay under the hood, in the fuse box, as heard a clicking while engaging the starter, but still no noise from the starter. I then removed the starter, took it down to autozone and had it bench tested. It passed all tests so now i am at a loss, I thought maybe it couldn't work under load but i hear nothing from the starter to even get under a load. If any one has a suggestion please let me know
Sorry. I know this doesn't help you. Good luck with your problems.
As to your particular model, I know because I have done it on my older model that you can get the starter out without removing any exhaust even though the service manual says to remove it.
I got the tip from another owner that you drop the starter, remove the wires, then turn the steering all the way to the right and lock them in that position (turn off key). Remove the axle vent tube by carefully twisting it and pulling up until it comes out. Once that is done, unhook the lower wiring harness from the clips and rotate the starter to put the solenoid in a better position and pass it forward, moving the harness out of the way to do so. You may have to bend some of the thin bracket to allow the starter to clear, but it is pretty obvious once you are down there doing it. Once it is clear of the harness, turn the starter so that it is parallel to the steering drag link and it will drop down through and it is out! Reverse the process to reinstall.
It does work because I have done it....twice. It is a little tricky getting it past the wiring, and I know that others have done it, including one guy who paid to have it done and found out that the dealer had done it as I describe but still charged the service manual rate.
I cannot say for sure on your newer Trooper, but the engine and starter are virtually the same so I don't see why not.
Good luck.
The cutting and welding of the exhaust seemed pretty extreme.
Thanks
Thanks for your help.
It always makes me wonder who engineers these things to make it so difficult to get to things.
I have an old 1987 Trooper that I had to change the water pump on, I had to pull most of the front of the motor apart.
I took a quick look at
www.myisuzuparts.com
to see if I could find an inline fusible link for your vehicle. That site is a great site and is free, so check it out.
I did not see any fusible link in the starter area, but I don't have your year so I am not familiar with your harness.
You should ask the mechanic exactly which link he replaced....you paid him so he should be able to tell you how he knew to replace it. Isuzu put all the links I am aware of in the underhood fuse box, so it is interesting to hear there is one inline.
Let us know what you find out, and you may get some more replys.
One guys opinion, Good luck.
Thanks in advance
Sorry I look to be late answering this one...just now noticed it is about 6 weeks since posted.
Bill
i have a 93 4x4 that is doing the exact same. except now it makes no noise or action when the key is turned. the battery is new and shows 13.7 volts at full charge. jumper cables made no diff...just dead silence when the key is turned . i checked the fuses and found no problems.....so did you get yours figured out. i have pretty much decided my starter is fried. but if any one has a cheaper solution i am all ears.
Mike
Mike
Mike
I was driving it home and all of the sudden all of the dummy lights came on. Gas, Brake, Battery, O2. The car kept running with all of the lights on.
When I got home, I turned off the car and tried to turn it back on and it would start up and die immediately. I can get it to stay on if I leave the key in the "start" position in the ignition but once I let it back to "On" it dies.
After I replaced the entire fuel system (except the pump which is a year old), the Air Mass Overflow, and the fuel pump relay and the main engine relay - it still wouldn't start.
That when I looked at the fuse box. I took out the main engine relay (big blue one on the outside of the fuse box) and it fired up. It started and ran really rough. All of the lights were off and I could drive it around - barely.
When you put the MER back in, the lights come back on and when I turn it off, it won't restart.
I'm basically out of ideas here. Anyone run into a similar problem? Or have any ideas about what else I should replace