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I searched the boards for Nanuq's view on Extended Warranties but couldn't come up with much. Can you give me a posting #, or paraphrase his arguments?
I have recently been researching extended warranties for my 2000 D2 that is about to have it's factory warranty run out. All the quotes I have recieved have been $3300-3800 for a 5yr/100K exclusionary contract. Seems extremely expensive.
nanuq Jul 29, 2003 4:14pm
Steve, Host
For your other question about turns on highways, I didn't notice much swaying or leaning to one side with mine, if any at all. I don't have ACE installed. I read somewhere that 2003 Disco handling is even better on turns than pervious year models.
When it's cold, I use the block heater to speed up warmup. Any other hints as to how I can minimize the hurt for the engine in this kind of use?
Thanks, experts.
Bruce.
I have two different AT&T GSM phones (Sony Ericsson T616 and Siemens C56) that are causing extreme radio interference (loud buzz saw) when in use in the front seats of the Disco, particularly the nearer to the radio such as in the cup holders. Also, when the phone is not making/receiving a call, the periodic electronic check-ins the phones make to the mobile system every few minutes makes a rapid pulsing buzz sound as well. This has been present since initial vehicle delivery.
Happens when:
Engine is on or off.
Using FM or AM bands.
Listening to any radio station (frequency).
Does NOT happen when:
Radio is off.
Tried on two other Harman/Kardon equipped Discos (One ’03 HSE, one ’03 SE)
Any other mobile phone service provider phone is tried (Nextel, Sprint, Cingular, etc.)
The dealer is stumped and is requesting a troubleshooter from Rover fly-in to take a look.
Anybody have this problem or have any ideas. My Disco has been in the shop for a month now!!
Thanks in advance.
I have an 03 HSE with the Harmon Kardon and have the problem only with certain types of phones, radio phones like Nextel and such. It seems that phones that rely heavily on frequencies to transmit and send info cause the problem.
Not sure there is much you will be able to do about this, but if you find something that prevents it please post it out here.
Thanks
Sick of my Jeep Cherokee...looking at an 00 Discovery II.
VIN # SALTY12421A295683
Do you see any problems?
Thanks to all of your posts that take the fear out of those of us who see a JD Power ranking and just about bail. I get more excited about getting a Rover everyday...
Matt
JOHN ESSER
Thanks in Advance!!!!!
Josh
Has anyone else experienced this or even heard of a Disco having this problem? Anyone know of any trees I can bark up to get LR to replace the engine outside of warranty? I've heard from a few people that LR has openly admitted a compression issue existed with the 4.0 engine. Any help would definitely be appreciated.
When they pulled the head, the technician was wiping out the cylinder walls and noted that his rag was catching on something in one of the cylinders. Upon closer inspection, they found a three to four inch vertical crack in the steel cylinder liner. It was tiny in width but definitely visible when you got down there for a look. Ouch!! They asked me if the engine had been running hot or exhibiting any unusual conditions but I had not noticed anything. They informed me that no one from Rover had ever seen this before.
Fortunately the vehicle was still under warranty and they replaced the “short block.”
The “compression issue” you noted from other sources may be related to this valve recall.
Not sure if you have a crack as well but it sounded plausible. Good luck!
On my recent visit to nearby dealer for 15K scheduled maintenance service,they recommend to replace rear break pads and rotors as well.
They reported on 16541 miles
Front brake pads have 58% remaining
Rear brake pads 33% and rotors at minimum thickness.
I think that it could have been a defective rotors or pads from a manufacturer.
Because, both front and rear brake pads are original ones and never replaced.
Rotor life should be much longer than brake pads.
If rotor and pad should be replaced at the same time, either rotor is too soft or pad is too hard.
However,the dealership said it is normal wear and not covered by warranty.
As per the procedure for a problem resolution on LR Passport to Service, I called LRNA customer care center and talked to the rep. Rep repeat the same "It is a heavy vehicle. Brakes can be replaced even at 5000 miles depending on driving habit. It is wear item which is not covered by the warranty"
I read the messages on this board about the similar problems. I do not think every rotor has same hardness. But isn't there any industrial/manufacturing guide line for the hardness of rotors? I would like to have input from the experienced people on this board if the life of rotor could be same as single pad life.
http://www.expeditionexchange.com/disco2brakes/
I have over 43k miles on my orig pads and rotors and plan on replacing both this Spring.
Question: Anyone had any luck with drilled or slotted rotors and also the EBC Brake pads?
Dominick, what exactly do you like better ("..better is so many ways") about your 2004? Is the handling crisper?
Incidentally, I'm not sure that seeing four LR vehicles at the same upscale (thanks indeed for pointing this out to us) suburban intersection is my idea of fun. Now, maybe if it was the same onramp onto the Maine Turnpike in a Nor'easter or the only vehicles to make it back to Kabul before nightfall, that would be different.
By the way, I never said the Main Line was upscale. I just said there are 3 Rover dealers around here, so people end up buying them. Years ago there was a Lotus dealer in Collegeville (about 20 miles from here) and there were a couple Esprits in the neighborhood. It had nothing to do with being upscale (which Collegeville probably isn't), it was just that having the dealer there meant people saw the cars, drove them, and ended up buying them!
Reverse snobbery / elitism on Landrover ownership gets old, too (Rovers should only should be owned by people who drive them off road, etc.).
I grew up on The Main Line, and I'll tell you that there is a lot more diversity of backround and income here than in any post WW II suburban tract house edge city. The Main Line has plenty of apartments, small businesses, and locally owned shops along with multi million dollar houses.
As for what I like better about '04:
- Engine feels more responsive
- Handling is improved
- They got rid of the "auto lock you in" feature when you start driving
- Scheduled maintenance paid for this time around
- Prefer the new wheels
I though the WRs would be great in the snow given Nanuq's rave about the Hakka's but disappointed given the snow we just had here in NJ - it wasn't sure footed as I expected at all, felt light and drove like a minivan. I don't do offroading but hope to this year and I definitely want a good snow tire given that we go skiing every weekend. I probably have one chance to take back the the Nokian WR (cross my fingers) to STS Tires, the question now is what should I go with. Much resistance from dealers here if you change speed rating and/or stock size. Is suppose I can go to a larger tire 245/75/16 like a Hakka LT10 Nanuq runs on but its a N rated tire (max 87 mph) and I'd be on my own. Same w/ BFG AT, have to change tire size and speed rating.
Any thoughts?
Josh
I've been lurking for some time, and it seems I've been smitten with the same bug as everyone else. I'm looking at a 2001 Disco II with 42,000 miles, just off lease. Price is $21,000, car is beautiful, and I do most of my own work, so cost of dealer service isn't too scary (that will come back to haunt me, I'm sure). I'm wondering if anyone (tincup?) can help me with VIN check, offer words of wisdom, etc.
VIN is SALTW12481A703903
Many thanks and appreciation for any and all help/advice! I hope to motoring smartly in a LR soon!
Jason
I know you will make the right decision since you have such a solid educational background! We share the same alma mater! I became a black shoe a year before you. GN-BA!
John
Yup, I'm a fellow Canoe U. grad and black shoe too(of the nuclear kind, anyway). My first car was a Triumph Spitfire, so I gained an early appreciation for high-maintenance British vehicles!
I ran a Carfax on this VIN, and it turned up clean on all counts, for what that's worth. However, I have a couple of questions/concerns that I hope someone can help me with:
1. I noticed that the transmission mode selector light only comes on for Sport mode. The Manual mode light will come on for 3 seconds on startup, just like it's supposed to, but it doesn't stay lit while the transmission is in Manual mode. Does this mean anything? I've had the pleasure of replacing several automatic transmissions on vehicles past, and would like to avoid that again.
2. Something else I noticed that may or may not be related to #1 is what appears to be a slight AT fluid leak (red, oily consistency). I'm not at all familiar with the layout of the engine compartment, but it appears to be coming from a hose connection near at the driver's side valve cover (perhaps an AT cooler hose?) The car seems to drive just fine, but....
3. How do I tell if the Disco has ACE?
4. According to Carfax, there is 14 months or 8,000 miles left on the warranty. Any hassles when you transfer the warranty? How has your collective experience been with dealing with the dealerships and service? If I buy this Disco and the transmission goes up in 3,000 miles, am I covered? Anything else I should be aware of regarding common warranty issues?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Jason
I also welcome you, and am sure you will make the right decision. I also sail the ocean blue lie ytou and John and have since 87 too.
The thing about Rovers it that you have to do the regular maintenance on a REGULAR basis to keep them running strong. It's easy to get used to an American or Japanese car where you drive them forever and then occasionally remember to change the oil somewhere between 3-10,000 miles. Most of the work can be done by you in your garage at home. I never take mine to Rover. I do all fluid changes and underneath work on the rack at My NEX Autoport. Make sure you clean the undercarriage once in awhile to make sure you can find any new or important leaks and to keep running smoothly. By the way I recommend Quaker State 4X4 5W30 synthetic blend, unless you live in the desert, and need something thicker.
I have discovered the Land Rovers are very Home-Mechanic friendly. The service manuals are straight forward, and if you can get the wiring diagrams (I have all the manuals on CD) Talk to me I will give you the hook-up.
I haven't had any problems with either engine or transmission. I do have a Veeery slow leak in the PS system, but it's too slow to worry about. I would definitely put some cardboard under it in the garage, since these trucks can, and will develop leaks. Most of them do have some kind or another. Just make sure you check the levels regularly and top them off when they need it. Just about everything bolts on easily, and can be replaced at home. Otherwise you might want to take it to LR and let them diagnose for you and then ( asl ong as you can drive away)tell them you are going to think about it, Or bring it back later, then go online to Atlantic-British, or Roverconnection (My favorite)or one of the other places, and order your parts and fix it yourself. Of course living with O's I don't know if you like getting your hands dirty (BIIG Grin).
I have found my LR to be about the best vehicle in the world to transfer overseas or anywhere else with because parts are available in just about any country in the world, as well as the damned computer to diagnose them.
Charlie
Well, I found the answer to my question about the manual mode light. I just learned that manual mode is only selectable in low range. I was confusing Normal mode for Manual mode in high range. Oops!
I left active duty in '92 and now actually work for a living :^) but I'm very willing to get dirty. I've never owned a vehicle with less than 60,000 miles on it, so I've managed to get very familiar with a number of "well built" American vehicles as well (I could change the halfshaft in a Taurus in my sleep).
You make some excellent points about the care and feeding of a LR. It's my nature to want to be intimately aware of the mechanical workings of my vehicle (explains the attraction to black shoe types!), and as long as I don't have to needlegun the frame, prime it, and paint it haze gray once a year, I'm a happy camper!
I'd be very interested in your recommendations for getting service manuals, electrical diagrams, etc. I've seen some CDs on ebay, but it appears that there are some scams as well.
Your advice and encouragement are much appreciated!
Thanks,
Jason
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 04V005000 (ABS)
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 04V006000 (ACE)
Has anyone taken Discos to nearest dealership yet? I have not received any mail or call from LR or my dealer.
I'm sure sorry your Nokians aren't what you were looking for. You might consider BFG Trac-Edge tires. They've got a nice open block at the edges for mud and offroading but I don't know how the rubber will "feel" in the cold.
-Bob
Anuqa has been grumbling a little over the last few weeks, and it's been hard to isolate under the hood ("bonnet" for you Brits lurking here). I thought it was the alternator or PAS pump, but they seemed fine. Then coming home from a glorious gut-bomb feast 2 nights ago, I was treated to that familiar sweet smell, and clouds of steam from the engine room.
"Yikes" I thought, as I nursed her home, keeping a baleful eye on the temp gauge. Upon arrival I checked things over and my first clue as to things amiss was the steady stream of coolant running from the water pump inlet flange. Hey, at least it was easy to diagnose!
So I can chalk up my FIRST failure with my trusty Disco in lo, these 5 years of pleasant (although harsh) ownership. And I wouldn't even call it a failure, it's just a part that died peacefully from olde age.
Meanwhile, my brother's new truck and my in-laws' new SUVs are going through transmissions and axles like popcorn at a movie.
I think I'll stick with Solihull, thank you very much!
1. All rear bulbs burned out at once with no cause ever found.
2. Induction manifold gasket failed.
3. Water leak over passenger roof post
4. Tensioner pulley failure
5. Unresolved (after 3 tries) drive train "slam"
6. Defective Homelink module
7. Water damaged headliner
8. Fuel door lock failure
9. Squeaking passenger seat
10. 2 failed wheel speed sensors (resulting in two hub assembly replacements @ $800 U.S. each!)
11. Failed throttle deizer plate and gasket
12. Abnormal wear on OEM tires (termed normal by dealer but widely recognized as a tire flaw by tire dealers) resulting in poor ride for over 25K miles.
13. Failed spark plug wire (this is my favorite since the wire only costs $33 U.S. but engine design requires time consuming removal of several parts before wire can be replaced...total cost for 8 wires, $600 U.S.!)
New problems since original post >
14. Failed power door locks
15. Jammed seat belt height adjuster
16. Random alarm failures...sounds when key is place in ignition
Based on discussions with other owners I've met during my all to frequent visits to the Land Rover service department, I don't believe my experience is unique. Also, I checked into buying an extended warranty and discovered (no pun intended) that I'd have to pay roughly twice what it would cost to cover a equivalent Japanese SUV. Clearly the actuarial analyses done by these insurers confirms how poor Land Rover products truly are. Finally, foolishly thinking that Land Rover might actually agree that I've had more that my fair share of problems, I asked them to provide me with an extended warranty at no cost. In addition to saying no flat out, they suggested I purchase a newer model since they have improved greatly since I purchased mine. Clearly an admission that earlier models were flawed and a bloody ignorant response to someone in my situation. Hope this helps others avoid wasting their precious time, money, and patience.
Charlie
I'm having the cold starts and an occasional case of the studders, but seems once the automatic transmission gets to third gear it's fine. I've ran a couple bottles of injecter cleaner through it only to find that it actually runs better on the mid-grade gas.
I bought used after rolling 280,000 on my '91 Explorer and am floored at how well the Disco handles and rides... Off-road it's simply the best!
I'm wondering if there's a way to turn off my CHECK ENGINE light now that I'm slightly over 60,000 miles.
I've also heard of a home repair web site that has Rover repairs laid out really well. It's alldata.com and then go to Land Rover... About $30 annually to subscribe and even details wiring.
Only other drawback is a slight leak on the rear differential.
Another jewel I've found regarding the Rover is how easy it is to clean. No nooks and crannies to vacuum!
Happy Rovering ya'll!
As far as my current problem, I have concluded that I somehow got some bad gas. For several reasons: It doesn't do it right away when you start it, nor does it do it when idling. Onl;y after tha gas gets mixwd up from driving does it get the loss of power and shaking, and then it comes and goes. I am still going to change the fuel filter, But I am pretty sure I have some water in the tank somehow. We'll find out in another half tank when I need to fill up.
I was asking around about Toyo Open country AT's but, nobody replied.