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Comments
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
- A weak fuel pump. Any motor is harder to start when cold, and you may not be getting enough pressure to the injectors. The fuel rail will have a schrader connection, where you can attach a fuel pressure guage. Sorry, I don't know the correct pressures you should look for.
- There probably are two temperature sensors on the motor. (Although, with a motor transplant, who knows what is still hooked up....) One sensor drives the temp guage. The other sensor tells the computer that it is a 'cold start' and changes the gas delivery - basically I think this means it delivers more gas by keeping the injectors open for a longer time. If this sensor is bad, the computer does not know it is a cold start and uses the 'regular' gas delivery, which mean it is tough to start when cold. But warmed up, the 'regular' gas delivery is fine and the motor starts fine.
I don't know exactly where these temp sensor are at, but my guess would be on or near the thermostat housing. Another guess would be that the sensor to the computer will have a pair of wires, black and yellow, twisted together. Replacing this sensor might be worth a try.
I should also admit that I test drove a chevy the night before, and my truck may simply be punishing me- however any insights as to how to make my truck happy again would be much appreciated. My previous ranger had serious fuel pump issues (went through three), so I am wondering if that could be happening to this truck as well.
Thanks!
Hope that helped
fotd1
It has been in the shop more in the last month then at home.
The dealership so far has replaced the fuel pump, fuse panel, a few relays, new computer and still when it is cold the truck won't start. We took it back again today. The dealer seems to be running out of options.
We are starting to think we truly have a lemon, any thoughts?
Thanks Donna
Thanks
Do you know what I am talking about? If the car is stopped while parked on any incline at all and allowed to roll forward or backwards, the next time you put the key in, it may not turn.
You will have to pull strongly on the steering wheel in one direction or the other to make the steering wheel lock-up linkages free up enough to turn the key. Usually you need to turn the direction where there is no 'play' at all in the steering.
If you already knew about this, and have already tried this, I think you are going to be going into the key and lock cylinder in the steering column.
THANKS!!
HELP????? :mad:
Problems like this is why I would never install an aftermarket security system or remote start. Their components and/or crappy connections break down and cause lots of problems as time goes by....
I also agree not to instal a security sytem. I've had two vehicles with them and had nothing but trouble with them. Never again.
Otherwise, you are going to have to go into the 'usual' search for a power drain.
Get a ampmeter that can handle 2 or 3 or more amps. Pull a fuse and put the ampmeter across the fuse contacts until you find the circuit that is pulling a big amp load. This just narrows the problem down to one circuit.
Or get a Test Lamp that can also handle a couple of amps thru it. Pull one cable from the battery and wire the test lamp in series from the loose cable to the battery. The lamp should light up. Start pulling fuses until the light goes out, or dims down a lot. Again this just narrows the problem down to a circuit.
To do further testing may just be guesswork of unplugging various things in this questionable circuit. Looking for pinched wires, etc.
Finding what is draining a battery can be one of the toughest problems in a car. In may cases, a factory shop manual with wiring schemetic will be necessary.
A tech that is a 'mechanic' and knows little about electronics may not be able to do this.
P.S. If you have a sticking relay, the above testing may not work. Removing the power to a stuck relay, when you pull a fuse or remove battery cable, might cause it to reset correctly and then you will not be able to see the drain on a meter.
Good luck. Finding a power drain is tough. I had a Caddy that would kill a battery in 2 days. Dealer did find it - replaced the radio/cassette/CD player. This probably was a thousand dollar part. Happy it was under warranty.
P.S. Any idea where to find a wiring diagram for a 2003 Ford Ranger. I'm thinking of yanking the security system.
if yiu turn the key,and nuthin happens,think solenoid..find the positive terminal on the battery,usually the red one,and follow it the six/ten inches to a round box bolted to the fender..take a jumper wire from the battery side to the little wire terminal,and this should make the starter work--if it's a stick-make shure it's in neutral-as you're bypassing all the idioit switches,and it WILL run over you!!..if the solenoid's ok,trace down the safety switch on the clutch pedal..or,the starter..
to the guy with nuthing comes on,it's probably a fuseable link..these are the main power feeds located back at the solenoid,with a smaller wire in them,and should you short something,the wire is thin enough to burn through-like a fuse,before your wiring system does a "china syndrome" meltdown..get a circut testewr,and probe through the insulation-going more than a foot away from the connection at the solenoid..on gm's,it's down at the starter..wher the bater wire isfind a pattern here?/
--a real primitive method for checking out a fuseable link-is to pull LIGHTLY on the wire..if the wire is good,that's not where the break is,but if it is,then all you will be pulling apart is the plastic insulation..
be shure to replace with another fuseable link,but-to get home,you could strip it past the break,and make the connection..rember this is the last thing protecting your wires from the battery..a short WILL melt wires-think "cigarett lighter"..?!
i've also had a "no start-will crank,but not run" situation,and altho i was getting a spark out of the coil,it wasn't hot enough!..replaced coil,and HAPPY MOTORING!!
good luck! :shades:
good luck!
:lemon: