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Ford Ranger Starting Problems

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Comments

  • ranger91ranger91 Member Posts: 4
    I called a ford dealer and they told me that the starter is most likely defective. They said that because all the starter want to do is spin that it means that the teath of the starter aren't recessing back into the casing and thats whats causing it to keep spinning
  • freezejc73freezejc73 Member Posts: 2
  • freezejc73freezejc73 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 ranger with the 2.5l. When trying to to start it all i get is a click sound. I pulled the starter off and had it tested. The said it was locked up. I put a new starter on and get the same thing. Just a clicking sound. My battery is fully charged. Is it possible for the replacement starter to be bad? If not are there any other ideas on where to look?
  • ranger_driverranger_driver Member Posts: 2
    Warozz - same problem here. 94 ranger xtended 4 banger pushing 200k. Problem started late last summer swapped a couple possible sensors but once cooler weather arrived problem disappeared. Ran fine all winter. Now with heat and humidity returning problem is back. Starts fine when cold, once at operating temp will not start on hot days seemingly above 80 - below that and it seems to do fine although I have not kept track. When it won't start sometimes it will start after letting it sit for 10 to 30 minutes typically but on a few occasions late last summer and now this spring it has taken several hours the longest being around 4.

    My mechanic has been looking at it off and on for the last few days (and has had it most of the day today) and is so far stumped. He has checked fuel pressure, spark, trouble codes, etc. The latest development just a little while ago (hit 90 today) - I noticed when turning the key to the first position before starting - you should hear the fuel pump pressurize the system then stop when at pressure - the fuel pump is not stopping when ignition is in first position. I am betting that when the fuel pump does stop (meaning it is properly pressurized) that it will start. Letting it cool down as I type this and will give it a go in a bit and report back.

    Have you had any luck on your end? Thanks!
  • ranger_driverranger_driver Member Posts: 2
    Sure enough! Tried it a few minutes ago. Turned ignition to first position - fuel pump ran for a few seconds then stopped - started right up. So it seems when the fuel pump keeps running the truck will not start so I'm assuming the fuel delivery system is not properly pressurized or there is a bad pressure sensor (if one exists) or it is just a faulty fuel pump. Will run my theory by my mechanic and see what he thinks. Will post results.
  • ngroverngrover Member Posts: 1
    My two wheel drive Ranger's starter died. We put a new starter in it and since then it has twice spontaneously started while in gear (both reverse and 1st) and drove itself into a tree and kept on running, digging one of its rear wheels into the ground up to the axel before the car finally died. It does not have a remote starter in it. Has anyone ever heard of such a thing? Could it possibly be the new starter? I have it sold but I don't dare to give it to the new owner until I can fugure this out.
  • ironman9ironman9 Member Posts: 1
    94 ranger 3.0 v-6 drive for a while then shut off no spark wait ten minutes it starts intermite problem but put test light on coil both terminals light stays on even while cranking replaced control module (mounted on radiator support) no diffrence i do believe if you tap on power distribution box it seems to start any help thank-you
  • jsilver19jsilver19 Member Posts: 2
    I was having the same problem and could not figure it out for nothing. The problem is the crankshaft position sensor. It doesn't cost much and it will fix your problem. This sensor send a singal to the coil and fuel injection saying to work and not to work. Good luck.
  • jsilver19jsilver19 Member Posts: 2
    I was having the same problem and could not figure it out for nothing. The problem is the crankshaft position sensor. It doesn't cost much and it will fix your problem. This sensor send a singal to the coil and fuel injection saying to work and not to work. Good luck.
  • wrangergirlwrangergirl Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem at first I thought it was my battery, starter, or alternator. Someone did suggest the sensor or fuel pump. My catalytic converter is fine as far as I know. I got my truck checked and nothing wrong with my starter, alternator or battery. So its the sensor? I have a 95 Ranger and it only happens when its hot out. Below 82 no problems. What causes the hesitation? So what is the problem when its hot it wont start or it'll start and die. I have to let it sit for a couple hours than it starts right up like nothing is wrong.
  • 02edge3l4x402edge3l4x4 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2002 ranger 3.0l 4x4 edge standard cab 5 spd. so with the key on i have power, the fuel pump starts and everything works.... then when i turn the key farther to start it something clicks and the power turns off like the battery is dead.... i tried jumping it, no success. i tried popping the clutch and it works. so i have fuel, spark, and air. but something happens when i turn the key. i am lost. what would cause the car to not turn over and kill all power when i turn the ignition from on to start?

    i am mechanically inclined, worked on cars a lot, but am at a complete loss and have no idea whats going on. if you have any advice please let me know.
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    My truck ran and started fine all day. Took the wife to the tanning store tonight and it will just click with nothing??? I have noticed my positive cable getting corroded and I've cleaned it a lot lately. When I keep turning the key it will click and my door locks will engage and disengage??? Is this an anti theft issue? I've tried arcing across the solonoid with a screwdriver. The battery is new. :confuse:
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    I started out the negative cable needed a new connector. Then I swapped all the relays around in the power distribution box. Still nothing. Guy at the Autozone said there might be some more relays underneath the dash. I found them and swapped them around and got nothing! I got to looking at the starter relay and figured it would be easy to change so I changed it. The truck still wouldn't start. I found my remote and changed the batteries to try and mess with the alarm system. I would hit the panic button and lock and unlock the doors. Next, I decided that I would tackle the starter since there is nothing open this weekend. Well, I finally got it off and had it tested. It failed! I put the new starter in and it fired right up! :)
  • abunoonabunoon Member Posts: 2
    My ranger was sputtering and it finally cut off. Now it wont start. it tries but wont turn over. I flipped the reset switch. any suggestions.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Bad fuel pump?
    Clogged fuel filter?
  • hyrockhyrock Member Posts: 2
    To All Ford Rangers that won't start when HOT !!
    My Dad has a 1994 with a 95-3 liter V-6, with coil type distributer.
    see http://info.rockauto.com/Airtex/Detail.html?5C1125.jpg
    We had the same problem starts when cold, drive around for 30 mins, turn engine off, go to restart and usually won't ignite at all, until a couple hours later after its cooled off. Took to Ford dealer, crooks wanted to replace all sensors, analysis said it was DPFE sensor, replaced it but nothing changed. Replace the plug wires, and just maybe that worked because now the engine problem light on the dash has turned off -- waiting to see, our fingers crossed that this solved the starting problem, but I doubt it.

    Spoke to really good mechanic/friend who has own Rangers, he immediately said it is the square distributor cap (see website above); the problem is the stator/coil inside becomes faulty due to the heat, it is what divides the spark to the plug through a magnetic field. Probably needs to be replaced. The way to check it, is next time your engine does not start, lift one of the wires off of the distributor cap about 1/8 inch or less away from metal in open and see if a spark jumps when someone else turns the engine over. If not, that should be your problem. RockAuto.com is lowest price in nation, $85.
    Good Luck!
  • adobeshadobesh Member Posts: 3
    First of all, i would like to apologize if this has been covered. I used the search but never really found my exact problem.I have a 91 Ford Ranger 4.0L 4x4. Yesterday, i went to work everything was fine. went to lunch, fine as well. After work, i went to start it and nothing. I get power when i turn the key and can compression start it. Also was able to jump the soleniod on the fender. So i replaced the soleniod and still nothing when i turn the key. I also bought a new starter and still nothing. I checked my fuses and ran my wires, everything appears to be fine. Any suggestions? Also, this may be foolish thinking, but oh well. I know my clutch is needing to be replaced. I have to push the pedal all the way to the floor and it starts to engage when only moved about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch :mad: could that have anything to do with it not starting? Because its not reaching its safety point? It still jumps from the soleniod with out any problems, so probably not. Just curious.

    Aaron
  • adobeshadobesh Member Posts: 3
    Nevermind guys, I searched alittle more and an going to try to replace my ignition switch and/or my safety lockout. Still curious if a going bad clutch would cause the same prob tho.

    Thanks,
    Aaron
  • rainnrainn Member Posts: 3
    I am having the same problem with my 93 ranger, did you every find out what was making the starter keep spinning... :(
  • rainnrainn Member Posts: 3
    I am having the promblem with my 93 Ranger 4.0 I have replace just about everything and my starter is still spinning when its running.... is there anything you can help me out with... :cry:
  • jesterdrummerjesterdrummer Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 ford ranger with a 2.3L. Its a manual and it will turn over without issue but wont fire up. I changed the fuel filter and plugs but the same thing happens. I need suggestions please.
  • fosselfuelfosselfuel Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I am experiencing the exact same problem with my '91 Ranger. I replaced the starter with a brand new one and it still wouldn't turn over. Just a loud click every time I turned the ignition key. I'm about to replace the starter relay because I'm guessing that's the problem, but I wanted to check and see how you resolved your starting issue - if at all. Thanks.
  • dimsdims Member Posts: 1
    My 95 ranger 2wd extra cab w/ manual 4 cylinder wont start. @ first I thought I might have turned the key to far to acc. and left the ignition on over night & drained the battery. But that wasn't it. it bump starts fine and re-started for awhile then stopped altogehter. Tested battery "Good", Alternator "Good", Replaced 9 yr old starter.( for piece of mind), and fender wall mounted seleniod. Now instead of a weak clicking sound theres a strong knocking sound from my starter, But still no start...:( I also checked all my fuses.... I need help
  • abunoonabunoon Member Posts: 2
    After sinking alot of money into parts thinking it was those, we realized the timing was off. Now it runs great. All i can say is the only money that was worth it was the $30.00 on a book on Rangers from the auto parts store.
  • dirtyhands67dirtyhands67 Member Posts: 3
    I have a '93 3.0 liter with similar trouble.
    I beleive the problem may lie in the power distribution box.possibly in the contacts for the relay or grounding. i'm going to try cleaning the contacts with contact cleaner and oxy-acetylene torch tip cleaners.i will let you know if this helps.

    My truck is having intermittent fuel pump failure.I have swapped relays,changed fuel filter & fuel pump.Still having the same problem.If the problem is in the fuel pump relay contacts in the power distribution box then changing/swapping relays won't fix the trouble. The contacts may be dirty/corroded or become a loose fit.

    I hope this works, it seems there are a lot of rangers with similar problems.

    If any one knows or has any other ideas please reply. thanks
  • huntluhuntlu Member Posts: 1
    had the same problem with my 1994 replaced the fuel relays worked like a charm.
  • rhsmrhsm Member Posts: 1
    I keep blowing the fuse for the natural safety switch when starting. I have replaced the netuarl safety switch, starter &.ignition swicth. It will start a few times then the fuse will blow no matter what amp fuse I put in any ideas this a 1998 Ranger 4cyl with Manual tarnsmission With 233480 miles I also replaced the battery & starter relay
  • pikelesspikeless Member Posts: 2
    Truck began to start about half the time; other half only a click when key was turned. Replaced solenoid on fender wall and all was good for about 1-2 dozen starts. Then 1 turn of the key got the "click" response; after that another 10 or so good starts before total failure to start with only a click response. Replaced the replacement solenoid with no success. Jumping the solenoid yields the click but nothing else. Apparently there is sufficient charge in battery-lights etc are strong. What should I check/replace next? Thanks for your help.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    If the battery is truly strong, the first thing I would check is the battery cables.

    Both of them.

    Connections on both ends.

    Check for corrision inside the insulation.
  • pikelesspikeless Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice Bolivar. I just checked the cables. I did not see any problem but I moved them to try to isolate them from any points of contact and it started a couple of times no problem. I hope this is not a red herring solution. Thanks again.
  • adobeshadobesh Member Posts: 3
    So i finally fixed my truck starting problem. After changing all of the electrical components(Starter, Starter relay, Ignition switch, Ignition tumbler, and Clutch safety switch), It ended up being a cracked firewall :mad: . I was told from the tranny shop that it is fairly common in the rangers ( whether thats true or not im not sure). When i pushed the clutch pedal in, it was forcing the firewall out and not reaching the safety point on the clutch safety switch. HA who woulda figured.
  • tibranger98tibranger98 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 ford ranger xlt manual transmission 4WD and I just replaced the starter on it, but now I have no power to the dash lights and it wont crank. There are no blown fuses and the battery is good. Any Suggestions?
  • mhubbardmhubbard Member Posts: 2
    Hi I drive a 91 ranger manual. I have had my starter and my alternator checked. I have a new battery in it and checked all the wiring.I had my battery charged and it ran fine next day dont start. It seems like something is pulling juice from my battery when it is off is that even possible. I have standard radio no lights left on ac turned off, etc... I mean you would assume you need to drive it to charge the battery, but to have a battery charged then put it in the truck drive home park it 2 days later its dead. I have done everything I can think of besides taking my truck someplace and spending alot of money. So any help would be great ty so much
  • mhubbardmhubbard Member Posts: 2
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Do you know anything about electricity?

    Do you have a voltmeter and ampmeter?

    Can you find the fuse box?

    If you don't, take the car and pay someone.

    Finding an intermittent electric drain is a tough job.
  • lacrossesoakedlacrossesoaked Member Posts: 87
    I had a similar problem. Finally corrected it by simply taking off the battery cables and cleaning the inside of the clamps and the posts. Apparently, even though everything "looked" clean, that was not the case. After I cleaned everything, I sprayed them with the purple sealer stuff especially designed for that use. Have not had a problem since. That was a year ago.
    What may have caused my original problem was that instead of using the store-bought purple sealer, I used bearing grease to coat the outside of my terminals. I suspect that over time, the grease had invaded the area between the clamp and the terminal.
  • carr0814carr0814 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 95 ranger, having a starting problem, when i turn the key all i get is a click i checked the wires and solenoid, noticed that when all i get is the click my dome light is also out as well as door chime, removed and checked starter, all was fine for about a week and then same problem again , is there something I am missing to check or anything else i can try
  • cam2000cam2000 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 4 cylinder Ford Ranger with manual transmission. Never had problems before. Parked 7pm last night, went back to start it at midnight, roll over good but no start. Push button switch closed, relays and fuses ok. Any suggestions?
    Thanks
  • madattruckmadattruck Member Posts: 2
    I purchased a new 2008 ranger. And now I'm having this exact same issue. My truck will crank and then finaly would not start. It has been in the shop for over 10 days. it is under warranty and they kept stating is was fuel pump. They ordered 3 pumps, they stated the pumps were bad. Then on Dec 3 They stated finally got a pump that works. I picked up my truck. on Dec 7th had the same issue. Now I'm taking it back again today. Very frustrated at this point. I'm and IC and my truck is my living. I'm no idiot! guess what guys it is not the fuel pump. So now another claim needs to be filed and who knows how long this time till I get my truck back. I'm very dissapointed in this 2008 ford ranger. They are suppose to be reliable. HMMMM. So far heater accuator door went out (no heat or cool air), and now startin issues. Ans as for ford? why does it take 3-4 days to orders parts everytime the think they have figured out the problem. They must need the bailout money from goverment to stock parts needed to provide great customer service to their customers which they so proudly brag about.
    BACK TO THE SHOP I GO : :mad:
  • josh40josh40 Member Posts: 13
    ive ran in to this a few times my issue was the crash switch up under right side of dash the plug gets loose and makes intermitten contact
  • dragon1990dragon1990 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 v4 RWD but with 8 spark plugs. recently my truck had an oil leak that i was unaware of until the day it decided to break down. i've fixed the leak and replaced the oil but then it would not turn over due to electrical problems so i charged my battery. now it is actually rolling over but wont hold to actually start. Ive narrowed the problem to either the alternator or the engine itself. I was hoping for someone to tell me if it is at all possible to test the alternator myself without taking it out of the truck.
  • kwikernesskwikerness Member Posts: 3
    Hey all,

    Just finished reassembling my engine after replacing my pressure tested resurfaced heads. I replaced every gasket and o-ring including the injectors since we had it apart anyway. 145,000 miles and this is the first real service we've had to do.
    Truck won't start.
    The battery was disconnected from Dec 14th until yesterday when we tried to start it. IS there any chance the computer needs reset, reloaded or something. :confuse:
  • grim_rangergrim_ranger Member Posts: 2
    Really check ur wires. I have a 1991 Ranger 4cyl 2.3. Even tho they may look ok from the outside they could be broken within the insulation. Yesterday I had the same thing happen for the first time "Drove it 2 blocks got back in and I could hear the solenoid engaging but nothing after that", cleaned everything, replaced the solenoid relay...EVERYTHING. To my surprise I took my ground and hot wires off and one was snapped within the insulation.....I think alot of these problems are simple fixes and are just bad connections "only talking bout the older rangers". CHECK YOUR WIRES. Especially if you cant jump the solenoid nemore its mos def a connection problem. I couldnt even jump my solenoid cause the CONNECTION wasnt there to jump it.

    If you turn ur key and hear the solenoid click "just once" then nothing.....most likely the battery leads or a dead batt. I was so mad when I fixed mine spent over 200 bucks on new parts just over a dumb wire lol But hey atleast I wont be replacing the new parts netime soon. ANother thing is OLDER rangers are oil leakers..... and if u trace ur hot wire back to the starter you will see the wire runs right by the oil res underneath.... I have had friends who had bad starts due to the oil leaking on to the hot wire and alas it wont start. I hope this helps neone who comes to this thread cause i was puzzled and really got no real answers online. So here is my two cents.

    :)

    Dan.
  • grim_rangergrim_ranger Member Posts: 2
    Also I would like to add that I had all power inside the truck "dash, door buzzer, dome light" all worked just the connection was too broke or low to turn the starter. I really hope this helps I stayed up all night tryin to fix mine.... and like i said it was something so small. CHeck the small stuff before u go replacing the starter.
  • jumbo1979jumbo1979 Member Posts: 1
    my 97 ranger was running just fine. I was driving and had to stop at a light. light turned green and the truck then stalled and cut off. I coasted off the road. I then tried to restart the vehicle but got nothing but grinding noise, no turn over. please help with ideas
  • kwikernesskwikerness Member Posts: 3
    Phantoms I tell ya...phantoms. My issue wasn't quite the same. However, after rebuilding my 2002 Ranger V6 4.0, it wouldn't start. We did all the obvious things like clean the terminals of the battery, check all the connections (we thought), even the fuel cutoff was inspected. After discovering the cam positioning sensor was disconnected, (the little bugger hides behind a bunch of stuff) we connected it and the truck turned over just fine. It cut out again so I replaced the sensor and connector. no problems.

    I'm not a mechanic, just a weekend warrior.As an electronics / technology specialist, I do however, understand and appreciate the importance of good contacts and wiring in any electrical system. Inspect all your sensor contacts for wear and be sure they're secured. Also a good idea to use dielectric grease on your contacts too.
  • hutch33hutch33 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 94 ford ranger v6 4.0 and it would start fine in the morning and wouldnt start when i got off work at 11pm it would turn over and not fire i took it to the mechanic and they pulled the codes and they said it was the engine temperature sensor and it has started perfectly ever since
  • buermanbuerman Member Posts: 1
    Hi there Im have the same problem with my 2008 ford ranger. At 4000 miles they replaced the fuel pump, ran fine until today. Its doing the samething it did before,now i have 40000 miles and the wont doing anything about it. Just wondering how they got yours fixed. thanks
  • smiddee10smiddee10 Member Posts: 1
    i need some adivce i have a 2000 ford ranger and it wont start there is power to the truck but when i turn the key nothing happens but the radio and all that stuf will come on ive changed the sparkpulgs and the coils and some realys but still nothing can any one help me
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Can you hear the fuel pump run when you first turn the ignition on? If not, the fuel pump or wiring is bad.

    On older Rangers, there is a 'rollover switch' which shuts down the power to the fuel pump. It is in the passenger footwell, near the tunnel, just behind the upper end of the carpet. There is a pushbutton on it to reset it. And/or maybe wiring to it is bad.

    I assume you've checked all fuse already?

    The fuel pump also has a relay in the fuse box. These go bad. There are usually 2 or 3 identical relays there which can be swapped around.
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