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Ford Ranger Starting Problems

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  • rangerboy1rangerboy1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a '97 ranger, 4 banger. I was recently having problems with my altenator shooting the right voltage to my battery, as indicated by a light on my dash and verified with my meter. I replaced the altenator and the battery as this has been a problem I let go long enough to fry the battery as well. The last few times I drove it before replacing these, however, a new quandry appeared that still has me perplexed. That is, when I turn the key the entire electrical system goes completely dead and I get nothing the next time I turn the key. I can disconnect the battery, though, for a few minutes and connect it and get power back to the instruments but will go dead again once the key is turned. With the entire electrical system being affected, I have suspected problems with the PCM or its relay. Am I going down the right path, or is there something I am overlooking? Thanks for your help!
  • jason200xjason200x Member Posts: 1
    I have a 90 ranger 4x4 xtended cab with 4.0liter and automatic transmission. I have a problem starting it in the morning. It takes @ least 2 times turning it over for a few seconds before it will start, and then runs perfectly. It is beginning to get worse, taking longer to start. The temperature doesn't seem to matter. Once i have started it for the day, it starts fine afterward as long as it doesn't sit for more than a few hours. I put the engine in this truck from my brothers wrecked 92 explorer, which also had this starting problem. The only electronics that remained from the explorer are those bolted directly to the engine, so I am assuming one of these sensors may be the culprit.
    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    A couple of possibilities:
    - A weak fuel pump. Any motor is harder to start when cold, and you may not be getting enough pressure to the injectors. The fuel rail will have a schrader connection, where you can attach a fuel pressure guage. Sorry, I don't know the correct pressures you should look for.

    - There probably are two temperature sensors on the motor. (Although, with a motor transplant, who knows what is still hooked up....) One sensor drives the temp guage. The other sensor tells the computer that it is a 'cold start' and changes the gas delivery - basically I think this means it delivers more gas by keeping the injectors open for a longer time. If this sensor is bad, the computer does not know it is a cold start and uses the 'regular' gas delivery, which mean it is tough to start when cold. But warmed up, the 'regular' gas delivery is fine and the motor starts fine.

    I don't know exactly where these temp sensor are at, but my guess would be on or near the thermostat housing. Another guess would be that the sensor to the computer will have a pair of wires, black and yellow, twisted together. Replacing this sensor might be worth a try.
  • rangerboy1rangerboy1 Member Posts: 2
    I discovered the solution (with some insight from a professional mechanic) to my starting problem was so simple I completely overlooked it: a bad connection at the negative post on the battery. The clamp on the post had been replaced bythe previous owner and the wiring coming from it was not making a good connection. I clened the wiring, put a closed-ended crimp connection on each wire, and reconnected to post clamp. I have had no problems since.
  • amazonafaunamazonafaun Member Posts: 2
    My beloved, super-dependable 1998 Ranger 4.0L has suddenly become very hard to start and will only run with pressure on the accelerator. It has had a couple of hard start moments over the last few months (temperature independent), but nothing consistent enough to be a clear problem. However, yesterday morning (it was below freezing) it would turn over, but not start, unless I gave it quite a bit of gas, and once started, it would only remain running with pressure on the accelerator.

    I should also admit that I test drove a chevy the night before, and my truck may simply be punishing me- however any insights as to how to make my truck happy again would be much appreciated. My previous ranger had serious fuel pump issues (went through three), so I am wondering if that could be happening to this truck as well.

    Thanks!
  • hubbleshubbles Member Posts: 3
    To the previous post with a 1998 Ranger 4.0L, that sounds like an Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). I had that problem and was able to temporally fix it by removing it, blowing high pressure air into it to clean it, and putting it back (then driving to the store to get a new one). If it is the IAC, it will start and run fine if you depress the gas, but if you totally let off the gas it stalls out.

    Hope that helped
  • cskodacskoda Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 ranger with six cylinder. When I turn the key I get nothing. No radio no dash no blower motor and engine will not turn over. I do have headlights and emergency flashers. The car has sat for months and the battery died. I changed the ignition switch, battery, solenoid cleaned all battery contacts body ground contacts and starter contact and still nothing. I checked all fuses at the dash location and at the power distribution box under the hood and everything is ok. . Turn the key and it's like it's dead. Anyone that can help I would appreciate it. I'm trying to get it running for a kid in the neighborhood.
  • revmredrevmred Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem starting my ranger, I replaced the battery after a severe cold snap thinking this was the problem, yet it continues, I thought maybe cables you can boost it off and it wills tart. I boosted it off today drove it about 3 miles. Killed it and tried to restart, it was like there was no battery at all. HELP!! I took cables off and am going to replace them, but should I have started somewhere else, or should I try something else first?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Did you have your alternator checked out? That may be your problem.
  • fotd1fotd1 Member Posts: 2
    The original symptoms did not state whether the engine turned over, but did not start. There are a couple of known issues with some years of Ford Rangers that affect starting. The crankshaft position sensor goes bad; the engine turns over, but spark and injector firing are intermittent-if at all. Longer shot could be a problem with the wiring harness (cracked insulation). If the engine doesn't crank (assuming good battery) check interlock switch on clutch/auto trans.

    fotd1
  • 98rangerv698rangerv6 Member Posts: 1
    i had replaced the alternator in my ranger then the battery went bad it was brand new i found out by process of elemination it was the fusabile link under the relay box by the brake booster
  • donnap1donnap1 Member Posts: 1
    I am glad that I found your forum. We purchased a 2008 Ford Ranger 3 months ago, everything was good until it got cold outside. As soon as the temperature is around 0% C. the truck turns over but won't start. (usually have to try 3-4 times before it finally starts, then runs well, as soon as the engine gets cold, same thing, won't start)

    It has been in the shop more in the last month then at home.

    The dealership so far has replaced the fuel pump, fuse panel, a few relays, new computer and still when it is cold the truck won't start. We took it back again today. The dealer seems to be running out of options.

    We are starting to think we truly have a lemon, any thoughts?

    Thanks Donna
  • j_denisonj_denison Member Posts: 1
    hey i have a 99 ford ranger 3.0 v6 flex fuel that is doing the same thing, not starting and i replace the crank sensor , checked the coil pack, the battery is good,,,, i have no clue what it is i'm about to try a new key and see if that works. did you ever find out the problem with yours? please respond
  • stoner007stoner007 Member Posts: 1
    It is getting worst as it is getting colder out... Would just not start but crank.... Almost doesn't seem like its getting fuel or something... It would take me about 15 mins to 20 mins at times to get it started.... Attempting to crank and waiting... At first ... I'd smell alot of gas when I'd get it started ... but not so much anymore... Sometimes pressing down the accelerator helps.... Sounds like its beginning to struggle every time now starting up and the idle seems a bit low.... Any suggestions on getting this fix?? What should I try first?
    Thanks
  • bk12345bk12345 Member Posts: 1
    my 95 ranger 4 cyl starts then dies and will not start after that it did this last sunday on thur i put it on a trailer took it to shop they pushed it in shop next day and it started right up its been doing this for a time and i let it sit for 15-30 min and it would start it will not start today have any ideas
  • rangerhead94rangerhead94 Member Posts: 3
    check and or replace EEC relay sould solve problem.
  • rangerhead94rangerhead94 Member Posts: 3
    check your grade of oil make sure you are using 5w20 or 0w20 sounds like the oil is moving slow.good luck .
  • bartibarti Member Posts: 1
    we have a 91 ranger and the key won't turn any ideas
  • amazonafaunamazonafaun Member Posts: 2
    I had an 89 Ranger, and the "key buzzer" (that annoying sound that supposedly keeps you from forgetting your keys in the ignition) broke and jammed the ignition in place. You could check for that.
  • hubbleshubbles Member Posts: 3
    The key buzzer is problem in many rangers including the 2000, the catch is you can't check it till you get the lock cylinder out which you can't do without turning the key. Take a normal metal key (not one of the plastic PATS keys) but one that is 100% metal and put it in the ignition. Then take a hammer or wrench and tap the key (not too hard) from lots of different angles, and try turning it occasionally, once it turns either start the truck or switch to your PATS key that you need to start it. You can then follow the rest of the procedure in the service manual for removing the lock core/buzzer switches.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Fords are notorious for jamming the ignition so the key will not turn. Assuming this is an automatic transmission.

    Do you know what I am talking about? If the car is stopped while parked on any incline at all and allowed to roll forward or backwards, the next time you put the key in, it may not turn.

    You will have to pull strongly on the steering wheel in one direction or the other to make the steering wheel lock-up linkages free up enough to turn the key. Usually you need to turn the direction where there is no 'play' at all in the steering.

    If you already knew about this, and have already tried this, I think you are going to be going into the key and lock cylinder in the steering column.
  • mtnjimmtnjim Member Posts: 2
    Last Friday I drove my 98 Ranger (5 speed manual trans) to work. After work, I ran a couple of errands then drove home. And parked in my driveway right behind my car. Sunday I go out to move the truck so I can drive my car to work Monday. Stick the key in and....nothing. The dome light doesn't come on, no starter, no headlights. The first thing that crosses my mind is someone stole the battery, but I open the hood and it's sitting right there. Stick a multimeter on it and it is fine, plenty of juice. I checked the fuses and they are OK. So the question is what could cause a truck sitting in a driveway to loose all power? :mad: Any ideas??

    THANKS!! :)
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Bad battery cable/s and/or connections, red and/or black.
  • mtnjimmtnjim Member Posts: 2
    Good idea, but one of the first things I checked.
  • harryp44harryp44 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Ford Ranger XLT with 45,000. In the last week my mechanic has installed 2 fuel pumps and a new battery. He thought the first pump he installed was bad since it died at 65 mph on a busy interstate so he installed another one along with a new battery. After having it one day, it left me stranded again after only driving 10 miles.It wont turn over. Any ideas?
  • dawuidawui Member Posts: 1
    Came home from work on Wednesday night, the truck ran fine as always. Came out Thursday morning to go to work, turned the key, and it was idling as if someone had crossed all the spark plug wires. I checked them, they are all right. cleaned the contacts in the distributor cap and the rotor. Put new plugs in and nothing changed. Any suggestions? 1986 Ranger 2.9L 6 cyl Thxs in advance
  • muncymuncy Member Posts: 10
    my 1992 ford ranger will not start no fire to plugs had the coils checked and modular all so, what else could it be
  • rebelm42rebelm42 Member Posts: 1
    I ran my Ranger low on gas and it stalled out and now it will not restart. I think I hear the fuel pump when I switch it on but am not sure. What else can I check? Is there a fuel reset somewhere?
  • timkellygpitimkellygpi Member Posts: 10
    I went to take off after work, forgot the e brake was on and killed it. Had to push and pop clutch to get it started. Got it home now and put a new battery in it but there is still no power to run lights radio interior light ect. Any ideas? :(
  • timkellygpitimkellygpi Member Posts: 10
    Ok I put a new battery and solenoid in the ranger and still nothing comes on, I can use a screw driver on the solenod and get the engine to crank but it will not stay running.

    HELP????? :mad:
  • peloquinacpeloquinac Member Posts: 4
    Have a 2003 4L V6 Automatic with new battery that won't hold a charge. Truck has been in storage for the last couple years, but it was started and made a few short trips while being stored. The alarm system is what killed the old battery but it is now disarmed. I've recharged the new battery and can go about a day and a half without losing enough power for it not to click the solenoid but not start. The alternator will charge the battery. Any idea what might be drawing down the battery?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Wild guess ??? Bad ignition switch????
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Is this an aftermarket security system? If so, 'disarming' doesn't take it out of the system. I would try to totally remove it.

    Problems like this is why I would never install an aftermarket security system or remote start. Their components and/or crappy connections break down and cause lots of problems as time goes by....
  • peloquinacpeloquinac Member Posts: 4
    No, It was installed when the vehicle was new. I've charged the battery and have pulled the fuses for the alarm to see if that makes any difference. I've also found where all the wires on the security system lead to except the door unlock. Any ideas?

    I also agree not to instal a security sytem. I've had two vehicles with them and had nothing but trouble with them. Never again.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Was it a factory install or dealer install? Dealer install is just as bad as getting one at the local electronics or sound store.

    Otherwise, you are going to have to go into the 'usual' search for a power drain.

    Get a ampmeter that can handle 2 or 3 or more amps. Pull a fuse and put the ampmeter across the fuse contacts until you find the circuit that is pulling a big amp load. This just narrows the problem down to one circuit.

    Or get a Test Lamp that can also handle a couple of amps thru it. Pull one cable from the battery and wire the test lamp in series from the loose cable to the battery. The lamp should light up. Start pulling fuses until the light goes out, or dims down a lot. Again this just narrows the problem down to a circuit.

    To do further testing may just be guesswork of unplugging various things in this questionable circuit. Looking for pinched wires, etc.

    Finding what is draining a battery can be one of the toughest problems in a car. In may cases, a factory shop manual with wiring schemetic will be necessary.

    A tech that is a 'mechanic' and knows little about electronics may not be able to do this.

    P.S. If you have a sticking relay, the above testing may not work. Removing the power to a stuck relay, when you pull a fuse or remove battery cable, might cause it to reset correctly and then you will not be able to see the drain on a meter.

    Good luck. Finding a power drain is tough. I had a Caddy that would kill a battery in 2 days. Dealer did find it - replaced the radio/cassette/CD player. This probably was a thousand dollar part. Happy it was under warranty.
  • peloquinacpeloquinac Member Posts: 4
    Thanks, great info. The alarm is a ford vehicle alarm but installed by the dealer. I had pulled all the fuses and looked for arching across the positive terminal on the battery. That didn't reveal anything so I've pulled the fuses on the alarm and left it hooked to the battery to see if I get the same drain. Thanks again for the help.

    P.S. Any idea where to find a wiring diagram for a 2003 Ford Ranger. I'm thinking of yanking the security system.
  • bmppmffbmppmff Member Posts: 1
    My 05 ranger shut off yesterday while at idle. It sputtered and shut off. It will not re-start..it turns over but won't start at all. No warning lights have come on prior to that and I have had no other problems til now. What else can I do??
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    If the it's dealer installed, I consider it aftermarket. Probably still junk. Failed components inside the 'box/es' could be causing the problems. Cutting into wiring and and/or using the cheep clamp on connectors will cause future problems.
  • blueroachblueroach Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my truck. Check the timing belt..
  • peloquinacpeloquinac Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for all the help. I removed the security system and haven't had any problems. Your advice on the Alarm system was spot on.
  • ronz1ronz1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2003 Ranger XLT 2wd - new problem: sometimes I can't turn the key in the ignition - it's stuck until you jiggle the steering wheel. I don't want to wait until it gets permanently stuck off and needs to be drilled--- So, is there any alternative to taking it to a Ford Dealer to get the lock cylinder replaced ? I also don''t want to end up with 2 different keys - one for the ignition and one for the doors. This seems to be a Ford problem-same thing happend on my Villager and the dealer wanted $400 to fix it. Any ideas ?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Fords are long known for doing this. My 91 SHO did this.
  • arnieboy1arnieboy1 Member Posts: 1
    i drove my truck to store, tried to start 3min later cranked like it wanted to start but didn't check for spark good checked fuel at in injectors good ??????
  • loqutusloqutus Member Posts: 1
    Similar to Arnieboy1, I stopped off at a store and when I turned the key to go home, all I got was a hard click. The engine would not even turn over. I turned the lights on, but even they did not dim after the click. No power to what?
  • yachtmanyachtman Member Posts: 1
    where is the starter relay located on a 98 ranger. i was told passenger side firewall searched for hours and didnt find a thing
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    wow!lots of peep's with old ford troubles..whodathunkit??
    if yiu turn the key,and nuthin happens,think solenoid..find the positive terminal on the battery,usually the red one,and follow it the six/ten inches to a round box bolted to the fender..take a jumper wire from the battery side to the little wire terminal,and this should make the starter work--if it's a stick-make shure it's in neutral-as you're bypassing all the idioit switches,and it WILL run over you!!..if the solenoid's ok,trace down the safety switch on the clutch pedal..or,the starter..
    to the guy with nuthing comes on,it's probably a fuseable link..these are the main power feeds located back at the solenoid,with a smaller wire in them,and should you short something,the wire is thin enough to burn through-like a fuse,before your wiring system does a "china syndrome" meltdown..get a circut testewr,and probe through the insulation-going more than a foot away from the connection at the solenoid..on gm's,it's down at the starter..wher the bater wire isfind a pattern here?/
    --a real primitive method for checking out a fuseable link-is to pull LIGHTLY on the wire..if the wire is good,that's not where the break is,but if it is,then all you will be pulling apart is the plastic insulation..
    be shure to replace with another fuseable link,but-to get home,you could strip it past the break,and make the connection..rember this is the last thing protecting your wires from the battery..a short WILL melt wires-think "cigarett lighter"..?!
    i've also had a "no start-will crank,but not run" situation,and altho i was getting a spark out of the coil,it wasn't hot enough!..replaced coil,and HAPPY MOTORING!!
    good luck! :shades:
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    follow the force,luke(rofl)..seriously,find the positive cable on the battery,and follow it!..it's less than 1 foot from battery,two big brass bolts,with cables bolted to it..one or two small wires,this activates the solenoid(the other big wire-it goes down to the starter..if you "jump" the little wire to the battery terminal,the starter WILL engauge-if it's working,so if it's a stick shift-put it in neutral,and set the brake..auto will be ok..if you jump the solenoid,and don't hear a heavy click,or the starter engauge,replace the solenoid..if you DO hear the click,but not the starter,replace starter..
    good luck!
  • cntry60cntry60 Member Posts: 1
    It has a new solenoid and it wont start. You can try to jump the solenoid between the bolts and all it will do is the enterior lights come on. You can push start it and it`s fine. But if you shut it off you have to push it to start it. Give a guy some advice and thank you.
  • carhandicapedcarhandicaped Member Posts: 1
    I have a 92 ranger 4x2 that i had got from my brother that had the same problem that i am having with it it wont start for the 8 months that i have had it there has been problems starting it i could pop the clutch on it and it would start but now it wont even do that a mechanic friend of ours said that it is an electric prob i put a spark tester on it and on the left hand side of plugs i could get it to blink the whole time i was turning it over but on the right hand side would only blink once when i tried to start it then wouldnt blink again i have asked alot of diff peps what it could be some say the crank sensor some say the fuel pump it cranks over like it wants to start just wont start when it went out on me i was on my way home it cut out just like the cruise control went off but then i hit the gas pedal and nothing so i pushed in the clutch and it died so i put it in 5th gear and it pop started again but still nothing from the gas pedal so i pushed in the clutch again and it died again this went on for a time or 2 more thank god i was less then 1/4 mile from my town pulled it into a strip mall and let it sit went back 2 or 3 days later wouldnt start so i was gonna tow it back to my house pushed it back outta the parking spot and the wife tried it and it started anyone got any suggestions on what to try next
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    if your near a auto zone-there EVERYWHERE here in ohio,or most auto parts places,and have them hook up their computer to your truck's computer..it saves the TROUBLE CODES..and will give you a better idea of where to start than my guesses..if it's not starting with the starter,try starting by fixing that..and going from there..that isn't as hard as push starting it..
    :lemon:
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