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Toyota Tundra Engine Issues



  • cskycsky Posts: 4
    Thanks for the reply . another ? for ya ,will this [ dual exhaust ]
    increase hp and mpg ? This is pretty much my soul purpose for dual exhaust .
    Thanks again .
  • apptunapptun Posts: 18
    The gains will be extremely small. The system will sound really cool! Just be careful to refrain from driving harder to enjoy the sound improvement or your mileage may actually decrease. I am hoping that the addition of a cold air intake will allow the exhaust to produce some additional improvements.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    The only thing a cold intake will increase is the noise in your cab and the silicone in your oil. But hey all the truck owners who swear a marked increase in seat of the pants power with a catback and air intake can't all be wrong can they?

    Toyota sells a supercharger. I'd have the dealer install that and be done with it. That way you'll have the fastest and quietest Tundra on the street. :shades:
  • market525market525 Posts: 27
    If you look in your owner's manual, you'll see the interval is every 90,000 miles, so you are long overdue for this service. Also note that the 3.4 engine is an "interference" engine -- meaning if the timing belt breaks, you will have pistons hitting valves. If that happens, you'll be looking at either finding a junk yard replacement engine, or stepping up the the plate for thousands of dollars in engine repair.

    Change the timing belt & water pump, or sell the truck! You could find an independent garage that would do the job cheaper, but I'd be very cautious there, especailly what brand of parts they install I've alway used genuine Toyota parts on maintenance of this nature. Good luck, Steve
  • toddhmtoddhm Posts: 35
    Hello all, I am considering the purchase of a 2008 Tundra 5.7 that was manufactured in late 2007. Have the issues with the 5.7 (knock, etc.) been isolated to a certain period of production, and if so, after what month of production have the issues been addressed and corrected on the assembly line? Is there a way to check the VIN on the particular truck I am purchasing to ensure that it is unaffected? Please help.....
  • I actually did some research on my own after posting the thread.What you said is correct.I contacted an independant garage to do the work and saved approx $300.00.All the garages that I contacted recommended the water pump replacement along with the timing belt replacement.the pump was genuine Toyota bur the belts were Gates.The water pump actually had a leak and was calcifying.The timing belt almost looked new and the 3 drive belts had little wear.Nor bad for 120.00 miles.will certainly repeat the procedure in another 100,000 miles
  • jimmyg8jimmyg8 Posts: 1
    I also have a knock in the motor of my 07 tundra its piston knock when its cold it sounds like a diesel but when it warms up its not as bad but i can't get any satifaction from the dealer or the service rep so i guess the lemon law is next
  • My 07 Tundra makes a Grinding noise sometimes when I make a slow right turn. When I back out of my driveway and put it in drive it does it every time. It's definitely not coming from the engine. It sounds like its coming from around the right front tire. It never does it while driving on the highway. It seems to be noticeable at right turns most of the time. It's like a rough/settling/grinding sound.
    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks, R Budinich
  • dfulcedfulce Posts: 2
    How was the diagnose made as piston slap? My dealer swears there is no problem!! They don't even hear the noise! I am currently trying different oils to see if it helps. I have 30,000 miles on my truck - the noise is not any better or any worse. I make sure anytime I have service done that the complaint is noted on each work order.
  • ppisanoppisano Posts: 16
    Hi all, have th 03 tundra v8 and about to try and replace the bank1/sensor1 after a po0031 code.
    How the heck do i get to it? wheel well? underneath? I'm lost.
    Thanks much appreciated. :confuse:
  • kpg712kpg712 Posts: 1
    I just bought an '02 tundra with the 4.7 engine. My question regards oil pressure. I have noticed that when the truck is at idle in drive the oil pressure drops to the first hash mark on the gauge. When I accelerate from a stop the pressure increases to about midway on the gauge. Is this normal for the pressure to drop that far when at idle? The truck has 52,000 miles on it & is in great shape. I don't know what weight of oil is in the engine, but it looks clean so I'm assuming that it's was changed recently at the dealership. What oil do you guys run in your Tundras? Should I switch to synthetic? This is my 1st Toyota, I traded in a Dodge Dakota for it, so I don't know squat yet about the Tundra. Thanx for your help.
  • wiesjonwiesjon Posts: 1
    Don't know about the exhaust per se, but do like the tires I put on mine. They are the Bridgestone Dueler AT/Revo. Got them at Tire Rack on the internet for a lot less than the local dealers. And then had them installed at one of their recommeneded installers. They will even ship directly to the installer. And if you ever need winter tires the Bridgestone Blizzak are like driving with chains (not quite of course, but really make a big difference). But I change from season to season as the Blizzaks are a true snow tire and don't get the tread wear of a summer tire.
  • mikonmikon Posts: 7
    The O2 sensors are a chronic problem on 2000 to 2005 Tundras (don't know about 2006 & up). HOWEVER, I had two sensors replaced by the Toyota dealer on my 2000 Tundra IN WARRANTY. There is a 5-year warranty on those parts. Since you have a 2003, check to make sure you are out of warranty before doing the job yourself.

    Further, a third one went out on me about 3 months ago. I found that I'm getting BETTER gas mileage with it out than when it was working....just FYI. A catch 22, if you must pass the engine inspection service light test for a smog test (like in most counties in CA), they will NOT smog test it until it is fixed.
  • I don't think you have a thing to worry about. I have an 04 Trunda and mine sits at around the 1st mark at idle and stays in the middle when driving, especially when the engine is warm or hot. Look at your owners manual and I think you will find this to be an acceptable level on your gauge. I run Mobil One 5-30w extended peformance synthetic oil. Enjoy your new Tundra, I have enjoyed mine. Gary
  • Did you dealer do anything ? My dealer wont . I would like to talk to your dealer can yoy email me your dealers telephone number to [email protected]
  • JPN1JPN1 Posts: 3
    The 5.7 Tundra V8, introduced about two years ago has had many problems including failed camshafts, extreme engine noise and high ilde speed on cold start-up to name a few. Most 5.7s used in Tundras and Sequoias are manufactured at the Toyota engine plant in Huntville, Alabama. The "sweet" 5.7, sans problems, is manufactured in Japan and is installed in each new Toyota Land Cruiser and Lexus LX570. To validate this observation, read the federally mandated disclosure statement in the window of each new Toyota/Lexus product with the 5.7 V8. This disclosure statement shows the country of origin of the major vehicle components
    (i.e. engine, transmission, etc.) Not all 5.7s are created equal!
  • I have a Great 2000 Tundra with the 4.7 and 120K miles. While coming to a stop while parking, the truck began shaking and stalled. It restarts, idles and revs fine, but put into gear and stalls immiediatly. I had a buddy who is the lead mechanic at the local Lexus dealership take a look at it and he says he's never seen this with the Lexus version of the 4.7. He tells me that the throttle body is the only thing that goes wrong with this engine. No check engine lights are on and even though I had just fueled the truck after letting the fuel light go on 4.6 miles to this happening, he does not feel it's a fuel pump or filter issue. Any thoughts before I throw myself at the mercy of the dealer????
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    sounds like a bad idle air controller.
  • 1972ck1972ck Posts: 56
    Your "D" light behind the instrument cluster in the dash is blown.
  • I have had this same problem, First try to adding octane booster to a full tank of gas. If this doesn't work you need to clean your throttle body. hopefully this will solve the problem.
  • any other problems Brian Jamie with your Tundra speaking
    from miles of experience, road construction???
  • This is a widespread problem with the 5.7 (and 1st generation 4.7) engines and TMC is basically giving all the owners the middle finger salute because it will cost them many millions to fix. They have rushed a product to market before testing it fully and all of us unfortunate early buyers are paying the price in terms of long-term durability and resale value. It is particularly heinous in that Toyota will eventually reap the benefits of their bad engines by selling replacement parts in much greater quantities than they would otherwise. If we work together on this and spread the word it is much more likely that they will admit the problem and honor their contract with buyers. In the 1980s Honda introduced the Accura line of cars and when a snow storm hit back east it was found that some of their automatic transmissions would grenade if the car was rocked (due to poor engineering). Instead of ignoring the problem and telling owners to get screwed like TMC is doing to Tundra owners, they worked very quickly to identify the problem, come up with an engineering fix, begin building the new transmissions, inform customers and dealers (not to rock their cars until the transmission could be replaced) and systematically replaced all the transmission as quickly as possible at no small cost. I know because I was involved in the process. That is the kind of customer service that TMC should be offering to Tundra owners. Let's face it, TMC could do the right thing here or they can do what they are doing and ignore the problem hoping it will go away (or your warrantly will run out). I can guarantee you, I will never buy another Toyota if they continue to ignore the problem and I am going to work to ensure no one else does either. The only leverage we have is our wallet or potentially a class-action by a good law firm and then only the lawyers win as the settlement would probably amount to a $500 coupon for the purchase of a new truck and free oil changes for owners while the law firm makes $150M.
  • High RPM at startup is the least of your worries. Unless you are one of the few lucky 5.7 owners without piston slap you will notice that when you put a load on your engine that it sounds like an old Detroit Diesel with 300,000 miles on it. TMC refuses to fix the piston slap problem must owners are experiencing saying it is "normal." Piston slap is not normal and us owners that made the foolish decision to buy a truck that clearly wasn't tested properly are now going to pay the price in short engine life and poor trade-in value. Sooner or later some legal eagles are going to file a class-action against TMC over this issue. If you are reading this thread and contemplating the purchase of a new or used Tundra be advised the engines having major piston slap problems. Anyone that tells you that piston slap is normal doesn't know what they are talking about or works for TMC.
  • mule4mule4 Posts: 36
    I own a 2007 tundra .Bought April 2007 great truck. I had GM trucks all junk .They would not fix the crap even under warranty.The engine is the best on the market. makes a person think that you work or own one of the big 3 or a lawyer wanting a job. The big 3 have lost their market share.No matter what you say .People know better.I also bought a 2009 toyota avalon a nice car that gets 31 to 32 mpg.Alot nicer car then the big 3. I wish you the best on bashing toyota
  • what do you say about the man talking pistons are like motorcycle pistons explaining possible noise? the slap will wear the piston out? i read the fords forum having some radiator problem burning out early #8 piston. what truck(s) do you recommend purchasing? what would you do to fix the slap issue? i am not mechanic but would like understand engineering fixes to this problem before purchasing toyota tundra. have you spoken to local engine enthusiasts/ seasoned veterans of tundra engines. Is this something motorcycles experience this issue will burn out piston overtime how many miles do you have on yours? how many more miles before you expect major ,,stop engine problems? no go toyota

    maybe there is some arbitration available through toyota for your redemption? how are ongoing discussion with those who understand problem and are seeking answers to fix this issue?
    similar victims, communicating other boards/forums tundratalk

    how exactly was honda explanation resolved?
    i did see nicer 2002 chevy 2500hd man wanting $1500 above edmunds price parked on road,,looked in nice shape,maybe retain some american jobs/investment in the country while things go back to efficiency? customer value/response most important marketing moving forward giving back to investors>purchasers
    things can change with enough communications what about the 20/20 programs
    John Stossel interviewers
  • is this problem existing on 2008s 2009s? is there fix in?
    do you have any survey of current engines?

    those with newer acquistions? speaking to this issue,

    what about other owners pulling loads??
    is the survey 1 in 100 owners
    with similar problem 1 in 1000, 1 in 10,000

    any other factors occuring @ same time pulling load,,major hills?
    flat ground? exxongas? 10% ethanol?
  • I left GM and Dodge trucks. So I went to Toyota thinking that they had higher standards and quality, but was i wrong. I bought a 2007 5.7 liter Tundra that has developed a piston slap like a diesel, this is not what I bought. I was told by Toyota that this was the GREATEST engine Toyota has ever made... well THEY DO NOT BACK UP WHAT THEY STAND FOR.. I have been to the dealer a half a dozen times about this, and called Toyota Corp.and had 2 Reps down from Chicago 3 times just to tell me this is the nature of the 5.7 top of the line high performance engine, and i just have to LIVE WITH IT. Thats BULL... they are not going to stand behind their product. ( BOTTOM LINE ). Now I have to listen to this all day long and what will happen when the miles rack up? or i go to sell it and resale is reflecting this issue? You pay over $37,000. you would think that it would run and sound the way it is suppose to be, especially for a Toyota? I'll NEVER BUY TOYOTA AGAIN, if they don't make this right. and i will TELL EVERYBODY, I PROMISE. DO NOT BUY TOYOTA TRUCKS... BUY AMERICAN.
  • toyota tundra V6,003. engine cranks, but doesn't start right away.drove on highway,when I slowed down to get off highway the truck stalled, tried to re start, but would only start and keep running with my foot on the accelerator. continued to drive ,but when I came to a stop the engine would die.would only re start and drive with my foot on the accelerator. the next day it stated up ok,but engine idled a little rough. Is my fuel pump bad?
  • To All you gentlemen who are posting messages reference piston slap during cold start ups, and piston slap during low rpm acceleration.

    1st--I spoke to a 20 year mechanic about engine oil type for my 08 5.7. I was told that these new high tech engines(especially Toyota) have very small and narrow passages in some parts of the motor, which make it difficult for oil to pass thru especially during cold start ups. That would explain the ping while cold. My 08 revs high during start up, but I do not hear a ping. I use a FULL synthetic oil..

    2nd--As far as piston slap during low rpm acceleration, that sounds like a fuel octane problem. I dont care what anyone says(or any manual says), use 91 octane in your tundra. You must be running BAD fuel in your tundra. Use fuel from Chevron or Shell.

    3rd--My last suggestion. Do to your tundra what I did to mine. ( Let me clarify that at no time have I ever experienced piston slap during start up or during low rpm acceleration). For several months, I researched a cold air intake system and a plug in computer chip for my tundra. Understand that these tundra's are equipped with stock air filter systems that ARE A JOKE. The engine can't even breath. No wonder it only gets 13mpg in the city and only has 381hp stock. I removed the stock air filter system and self installed an AFE cold air intake box in 1 hr. I already felt a noticeable difference in throttle response. And you know what MORE COLD AIR entering in the engine means--better gas mileage, more hp, and more torque. Then I put the icing on the cake by self installing a plug in UNICHIP computer chip to the tundra's ECU. Understand gentlemen, these 5.7 motors can generate tremendous horsepower and torque, but are tuned DOWN to meet safety standards. The tundra stock computer chip is programmed to allow the engine to generate only a small portion of its capable horsepower, torque, and gas mileage. (THEY GOTTA KEEP THE OIL COMPANYS HAPPY BY MAKING SURE YOU FILL UP YOUR TUNDRA'S FUEL TANK AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE). The UNICHIP I installed safely tells your stock tundra ECU to produce way more hp, torque, along with increased gas mileage. These 2 totally safe modifications to your tundra will cost you about 1100.00, will not void any factory warranty, are do it yourself projects, and will allow your tundra engine to effeciently breath and burn fuel. What does it all come down to?? At least 37-40 more HP, at least 35-40 more TORQUE, and a 2-3 MPG INCREASE. AND VERY POSSIBLY NO MORE ENGINE PING due to stock air intake system...
  • Bet they got that sludge... that is the way of them ones now. Good luck on this one now!
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