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Toyota Tundra Engine Issues



  • washu64washu64 Posts: 1
    I have had the same problem. Mine is a 2000, 4.7 V8 with 110K. Yesterday morning the battery was dead for no apparent reason - jumpstarted it - idled and drove fine until I stopped to make a turn and the engine died. It restarted fine, and runs, but won't idle on it's own.
    Today the battery was dead again and wouldn't take a charge. It was VERY old, so we replaced it. This did not solve the idling problem...
    My fuel filter is only 4 months old, I don't think that is the problem. Would an O2 sensor cause this?
    Already scheduled for some maintenence on Wed. I'll let you know what they tell me about this Luke.
    Any other ideas or explanations would be appreciated before then.
  • luke21luke21 Posts: 2
    my guess is that it is the idle air control, I read sometimes they stick. let me know after you're maintence check. Thanks.
  • Are you still following this discussion? I'm interested in your reply, if any, to posts after yours.
    Pistonslap Lady
  • supertsupert Posts: 2
    I started to get rust spots on my rear bumper on my 2008 tundra . Anyone else hear of this problem
  • webgoodwebgood Posts: 95
    Are you sure they're truly "rust", or are they maybe "environmental" or "rail dust" deposits? If they're rust, the spot typically has a tiny center "pimple" with a dark brown ring that develops around it. Environment deposits are just like a hard little speck of medium brown sand grain, no ring or "halo" around them. Another check, with the truck washed, run your hand over the vertical part of the bumper and then the painted tailgate surface near the bottom. Do they feel about the same? Then it's probably environmental deposits.
  • supertsupert Posts: 2
    They just replaced my brothers on warranty at sherwood park toyota. Alberta. I am expecting a recall or tsb on this.
  • farmerrubefarmerrube Posts: 33
    Rustin and bustin... that is the way of them forien ones now! If you need one for workin.. and lastin long... look to them big3 ones now. Good luck on this one now!
  • msalsburymsalsbury Posts: 8
    Do you mean they replace your brother 5.7l tundra engine for the knocking sound? Hey can you email me the details of the rep. or tech that Ok'd the work at I will drive to Alberta to get my engine fixed there if thats the case because my dealer is giving me the run around .
  • webgoodwebgood Posts: 95
    I think you mixed the thread...supert's was about rust spots on the rear bumper.
  • cfazcfaz Posts: 2
    I'm going through the same issues can you supply any information you received so I can try and get mine fixed too!
  • cfazcfaz Posts: 2
    If I have the right thread. Looking for someone who has any information on how to get the Toyota Tundra knocking sound fixed under warranty. Sounds as if someone was able to get it done in Alberta . Get 5.7 engine replaced. If anyone has any information about who to contact or dealer who did work or anything I can bring to my dealer for backup would appreciate. This knocking developed about 33k miles and been battling now for months and only have only 6000 miles left on warranty. I had this issue with 1997 Ford 5.4 about same mileage when it started. Turned out to be Ford had some engines produced that were machined improperly.They finally gave me a new engine. Took almost year and many miles latter to get it because of back order of replacement engines but I got it. Went to 235k before selling it. Never thought I wopuld have this issue with a Toyota engine.
  • eric70eric70 Posts: 2
    ive had the same problem cause was to much oil on the k&n after cleaning
  • mikeswiftmikeswift Posts: 1
    :sick: 2001 Tundra 2WD with 3.4L 6 cyl. throws rod through right side of block. Looks like #1 from outside. 109,220miles. Light usage. Truck never worked hard.Very discouraged. Been bragging my 3 Toyotas up now this. I'm a 3Kmi. oil change type. Local TOY garage says they've never heard of this at this low milage. Other local other type dealers I know say the same. Engine still in truck so no idea what happened yet. Have yet to hear of this problem anywhere. I'm always the guinea pig. :mad:
  • umbi2011umbi2011 Posts: 1
    Another Toyota defect! We have a 2003 Toyota Tundra, V6, 4WD with 96,000 miles.
    Other than the manufacturers defects (rust frame) our 2003 Tundra was in mint condition until yesterday. We were driving the car on a residential street, 30 miles per hour, and suddenly heard a noice. My husband immediately shifted the gear into neutral, pulled over and shut the truck off. It then began leaking oil. We towed our Tundra to the Toyota dealership in Tyson's corner. The Toyota dealership claimed that it is our problem and they blamed us for not enough lubrication (oil). We have documents to prove that we have changed the oil every 3000-4000 miles since 2003 and we have always used high grade Castrol GTX 5W-30 oil. Our oil was changed 400 miles ago and when the car was towed it the tank was still 3/4 full. It turns out that the piston rod blew a whole in the side of the engine with ceased the engine. The only way that this can be explained is a bad luck and a manufacturers defect. We now need to replace the engine, at our own expense, for upwards of $7,400 for a used engine. Bad enough, we have been waiting for Toyota to honor their recall for rusting for over a year to no avail. Now this. We are so discouraged as we believed in the Toyota brand and we really like our truck but we have been plagued with problems. What is there to do now?
  • fromerfanfromerfan Posts: 1
    Stopped at the end of my driveway when the engine started to race with the vehicle in drive. My foot was one the brake and pressing harder as the rear wheels overcame the ABS and drove me out into the road. The tundra hit a vehicle coming down the hill from the left and continued to push it clear across the two lane road. The engine just as suddenly stopped revving and stopped. Once out of the car, I witnessed the engine take off again thankfully the vehicle was in park. This was witnessed by the two occupants of the other vehicle. Is there any one out there who has also experience this type of failure? Is there any record of this type of fault?
  • I have had trouble with 2005 Toyota Tundra engine dying with codes P0171 and P0174 lean fuel on both banks at 60,000 miles. 5 Toyota Dealerships later Ive replaced the MAF spark plugs, both catalytic converters and they say it may be O2 sensors at $400 times 2 and 150 times 2 for the rear ones. This truck has almost gotten me killed more than a few times because engine dying in heavy traffic. Luckily I hope I found an independant technician who in 15 min ran an amp ramp test on the fuel pump. It failed and was aflat line aqt 4 amps when it should vary between 4 and 10 or 12 and down again. Dealers test fuel pressure but not volume of fuel which he says this does. So we'll find out tomorrow.
  • Replaced on their advice the mass air fuel sensor MAF, the spark plugs, both catalytic converters and they washed out the air plenum all at 60,000 miles. After the cats were replaced it ran okay for a couple of months and then 1500 miles from home it does the same things again. Dealership suggests new O2 sensors but an independant tech ran an amp ramp test of the fuel pump and he says that it has pressure but no volume because the metered amps were a flat line at 4 amps instead of varying from 4 to 10-12 back to 4 again. So they will show me tomorrow whether it solves the problems I and others have had.
  • As per my last message the amp ramp test is the correct test. The NAPA Technicians at TUNEX took the fuel pump out and replaced it.
    I took the fuel pump apart and found it plugged with coffee grinds. Thanks evil ones.
    Replacing the pump fixed the engine dying and no power problem as proved by the scans which showed the amps at 7.5amps up to 9 amps and down again. Another scan proof showed the short time and long time fuel numbers at near 10 and over 30 respectively the injectors trying to compensate for lack of fuel. Those numbers came down to under 3 and 10 respectively and going down more as the averages count the new improved low numbers. The new pump installed actually led to the engine light going out by itself as it recognized the repair.
  • pvtcablepvtcable Posts: 7
    the problem maybe with the flex fuel.I have had to resort to the lemon law and get an attorney. Toyota knows of the condition problem but refuses to tell anybody about it when they're selling these cars. They will not stand behind it they will not let you off the least it will not give you a replacement vehicleregardless of how much you spent or how many Toyotas you driven in the past.there is some type of problem with the mixture of oxygen in fuel. It's a software problem they say. They know about it but they do not have a fixed and not telling any new customers. When the problem happens it makes the truck run rough, start had and hesitates during acceleration and when using passing gear so be very careful. the only cure so far anyway is do not drive for less than 5 minutes at a time, do not run on less than a quarter of a tank of fuelonly drive in temperatures of over 50 degrees.the problem also happens after the seventh or eighth fill up.they may offer to make a monthly payment for you or to extend your warranty but that does not fix the problem. When you drive as much as I do the car has to go in for service about every 2 weeks.I would check this out carefully before you sign anything. Or at least look into the lemon laws first
  • dbagz1959dbagz1959 Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 tundra, bought it new, 83000 miles, when it gets to operating temp it develops a miss while at idle, and the check engine lite comes on, seems fine when crusing. took it to one shop and they said the code showed that some of the plugs were loose, repaired that, check engine lite was now out. five days later same problem. took it to dealership, same codes for plugs.they replaced all the plugs, problem fixed. two weeks later same problem. any one have this problem or any ideas what is causing this? thanks for your sugestions.
  • pikalpikal Posts: 1
    At 2:00 AM July 30, 2013 a friend of mine woke up when he heard what he thought was someone stealing his truck. He armed himself and made his way cautiously out to the truck to confront the thief/s. There was no one there! The truck had "started itself" with no keys in the ignition? He went and got the keys, shut off the truck and went back inside his home. Several minutes later it started up again without the keys in the ignition! This time he shut off the truck with the ignition key and removed the negative battery cable. The truck did not "start itself" this time. When he starts the truck with the ignition key now, he is unable to shut it off unless he slightly turns the key to the start position and then quickly to the off position. He then leaves the battery cable disconnected until he is ready to start it again.
    The Technicians @ Toyota Dealership were unable to use their Computer to try and diagnose the problem? Not sure why?
    Unfortunately the truck's warranty has expired and the Dealer is not prepared to further investigate the problem.
    ...this story is factually true and scared the hell out of him thinking someone was stealing his truck.
    Has anyone ever had a similar experience with this make and model???
  • My check engine light came on .so went do a code check, it gave me a 43 which is a purge value sensor, or replacement part. Please help with this so i dopnt spend a lot of money
    an not fix the problem. Thanks
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