Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

jeffkiel · August 2004

Check out the post by our mod, he has the details on it. Most important thing is to keep records so they won't have a leg to stand on

nanuq · August 2004

I did the same thing, I bought a 9-month old Disco for significantly less than new. It was rough at first, because apparently the original owner had trouble with it and brought it back. I had trouble but the Rover dealership went WAY beyond the call of duty and fixed it thoroughly, even though I did not buy it from them.

That said, you stand to save a lot of money with the deal, but it may have a checkered past (already). Ask to see ALL records for the vehicle, obtainable by VIN. It will reveal any chronic problem that may have prompted the original owner to dump it. Or it may simply be that you're getting a fantastic deal!

Good luck! -Bob

gtmaguire · August 2004

Thanks for the info. I did a carfax report and it came up clean. Is that the same thing?

Thanks for your help!

Glenn

angelboing · August 2004

i've heard of the manufaturer-to-dealer incentives on outgoing 04 discoverys. my dealer is offering me a zero down, $500/48 mo. lease on a new discovery SE (12K mi/yr). but they've also got a former loaner HSE available with 240 miles, VIN #SALTP19464A836649, for $33,600 (or $1500 down, $500/48 mo.).

what do you guys think about these offers, and whether the price on the loaner is worth it? is it unreasonable to ask for a roof rack, brush guard, or floor mats along with this offer?

can i get a better base price? cap cost? monthly payment?

i'm in the los angeles area, where i have about 5 dealers located within a 30 minute drive, and 3 of them claim to have a very large selection of outgoing 04 discoverys.

thanks in advance!

nanuq · August 2004

Actually no... I think Carfax reveals accident information and lemon complaints. What you want to see is service history. Was it in repeatedly for service or warranty work? Are there chronic problems that caused the original owner to dump it? A Rover dealer can bring up the vehicle's history by its VIN and that will reveal all warranty and service work performed. That will give you a feel for what you can expect from the vehicle in the short term. If you see some problems but you're willing to swim upstream, you can negotiate a good price, then use that remaining warranty and have the problems fixed under warranty. BE PERSISTENT and they'll make your truck right.

That's what I did, and now I haven't had one problem (other than one part that wore out) in 5 years. The boys here at Land Rover Anchorage bent way over backward for me, and I couldn't be more pleased.

devynsdad · August 2004

I just got rid of a 2002 Volkswagen Passat wagon that was sold to me with a clean Carfax. The funny thing was I knew the guy who had traded the Passat in on an '03 4Motion wagon, and knew in advance that he had tagged a fence post with the right front. He had to have a new fender and front clip put on, which is about as expensive on a Passat as it would be on a Disco. However, the work hadn't been reported to Carfax when I bought the car, and when I got rid of it ten months later it still didn't show. So don't put too much stock in Carfax.

Nanuq is absolutely right, you should just ask the dealer to print you a service history. I was looking at a 99 Series II SE in excellent shape on the local Audi used lot, but when I got a copy of the service history it was about as thick as the owner's manual. I passed on it, and shortly thereafter ended up buying a 2000 SE7 that had no major warranty work done and had been well maintained by a dealership.

My local dealer will give you the service history on anything you drive up if you ask. Then they try to sell you one of their service loaners.

lrguy · August 2004

"I would think they'd do the same thing when they kill off the Discovery model altogether".

Discovery is not being killed off. The LR3 will be known as Discovery 3 every else but the US (apparently we like numbers and letters, that way nobody knows what vehilce you're actually talking about). Go to the UK website, you will see it refered to as Discovery 3.

That being said-I should imagine there will be some stupid cheap deals on the '04s

knox · August 2004

Is it normal for the ACE system to make noise when turning? It's not really loud, but I can definitely hear and feel the pump working. The dealer says it's normal, but they say that stuff all the time. Also, does anyone have a squeaky seat problem? Thank God for the loud radio or I would go insane with that squeak. Dealer "lubricated pivoting points" but that's all they could do. It's actually coming from inside the seat...I think it's the heater coils. I'll have the dealer check it out tomorrow when I drop it off beaceuse my HD, TC and ABS lights are on. Any comments about trhe ACE and seats are appreciated! Would love to know if both of these are normal. Thanks!

mrtoad3 · August 2004

Well, a squeaky seat is never normal. I don't think they designed it specifically to sqeak. The ACE does hum while turning. It is a normal sound. Mine actually growls lightly when I turn. Hope the dealer can locate the sqeak. Good Luck.

nanuq · August 2004

Yes there have been many reports of odd ACE noises... I believe that's normal. Many seats squeak as well, you can see it here:

http://www.alldata.com/TSB/68/96680604.html

As for my retraction, I've been saying for years that if you drive with cheap gas and ping it too hard on tough uphills with heavy load, it will "learn" and retard the timing for self-preservation. And that only the Testbook will reset it back to spec.

I was wrong!!! I spent some time with the tech a few days ago just chewing the fat, and mentioned I'd got a load of bad gas and my timing was toast again (grin). He gave me a freebie of official green Land-Rover goo that goes in the tank as a treatment, and said to fill up on Premium gas, then drive the entire tank "like I'd stolen it". So I've been driving the hell out of Anuqa for the last two days and sure enough, the timing is coming back to a nice advance curve and she's running like a cat on carpet! What power! He says over the course of the tank it will "relearn" its driving environment and reset the timing back to the "fun" side of the curve.

You learn something new every day!

-Bob

gtmaguire · August 2004

We just got our used 2004 Discovery SE. I love it, but I do notice one odd thing. While driving over concrete roads, the kind which have a slit in the road every 20 feet or so, I notice a twang. It is almost as if I can feel the suspension flex through the seat. Is this normal?

Thanks,

Glenn

nihilist · September 2004

i dont want to offend anyone here but this post from page 1 is really good:

"That's why I've been wondering when the SUV craze is going to fade. If you don't need to go off road or have to deal with major inclement weather conditions why would you want to put up with an ill handling, ill performing, gas hog SUV beast? Especially when there are so many nice euro sport wagons on the market.

Don't get me wrong, I owned a Range Rover for over 8 years in Colorado and loved it. I was an off road fanatic and really became a dyed in the wool Rover owner. My old Rangie never stranded me and was a very dependable vehicle until I sold it with 160k miles on it.

I was transferred to Florida a couple of years ago so have absolutely no need of an SUV here. We've taken up sailing and enjoy it every bit as much if not more than off roading as a passtime. So we have an Audi A6 Quattro Avant as our hauler here. The Audi's been a perfect match for our new locale.

I can't imagine why someone would want to put up with 1950's era handling performance, gas mileage etc, if you don't off road or have any practical use for what SUV's (especially Land Rovers) are primarily designed to do.

What made me a Land Rover fanatic is experiencing what one will do off road - basically defy the laws of physics. People that yak about that "feeling" a Land Rover gives them dispite never taking it off road make me laugh, what an increadable waste of an incredable off road vehicle"

this post is from 2000 but it's great for today. im actually surprised his RR lasted that long. im an engineer and i do alot of mechanic work and my professional opinion is that they are terribly designed. i think LR has even *more* problems with quality control.
oh well, that aside, i agree with this guy in that it's pointless to drive one of these beasts around as a daily driver. they are dangerous - too heavy, bad brakes, unimpressive crash test scores.
a note to family guys: you dont need a 4x4. get a sedan to keep your family safe. dont get sucked into the "image" void. LRs are costume cars - they make you look rugged and outdoorsey but the reality is no one else cares. they are too busy thinking about themselves.

a note to future off-roaders: avoid LRs. serious off-roading requires serious upgrades. it will also tear up your rig. i advise getting an old jeep for cheap and modifying the heck out of it. expect to destroy it. dont worry though, the cost of a rebuilt transfer case on a jeep is going to be miniscule compared to a LR.

a note to everyone: sorry about the long post. i have owned and worked on LRs and just wanted to pass on some solid advice. i think that they are, financially and technically, a waste. if you feel you must make a $500 a month payment for 5 years, maybe invest it somewhere else. then again, if you have that much expendable income, you probably dont care.
good luck.

lightcahill · September 2004

Well, we live in Colorado. Last time I looked, the mountains were still there. The dirt roads, the backwoods trails, the mountain passes, all still there. Some, where the Hayman Fire burned, are in worse shape than ever. If one wants to take advantage of many of these "off the beaten path" trails, one must have a vehicle that can handle mild rock crawling, even in stock form.

Jeeps can do it. But, try to keep one running. I had one. I know. There are other rock crawlers out there, but none do it any better than the Discovery, and most not as well.

Reliability? After 22,750 miles in less than two years, and much of it going off-road in Colorado, Wyoming, and Montana, the only mishap has been a burned out low beam light bulb. Replaced in a trice with a stock bulb from NAPA.

Gas mileage? 15.8 mpg, city, highway, back woods, mild rock crawling, etc., etc., over the entire 22,750 miles of ownership (a 2003 SE). Long trips to Florida, New Jersey, Washington State, Oregon, Montana, etc. Two Great Pyrenees dogs fit just perfectly in the back. Remove one or two of the back seats and there is still tons of room for fishing gear, etc.

Not rich. Retired. Modest pension. This is the kind of stuff that a Discovery is made for. If one wants to ride around town and not feel the bumps, get something else. Advice is free, and worth every penny of it. For some people a Discovery is the wrong vehicle. For others, it is the ONLY vehicle.
73's,
Light Cahill

highender · September 2004

while I don't have a Land rover or Range rover, I do think they are nice do all vehicles, if one has that need...

We go to snow country at least 2 or 3 times a year, so having a SUV really helps.

On your thoughts about SUVs being gas hogs and ill -performing, needs to be updated., IMO>
...nowadays there are newer tech SUVs that are really pretty good on gas....almost as good as some medium sized performance sedans, but definitely better than many large sized sedans.
Example: Honda CR-V , Volvo XC90, etc..

there are many performance oriented SUVs, which handle superbly, better than most sedans, and even besting some sports cars !!!
Examples: fx45, Cayenne, X5, etc....

although for luxury and offroading, the LandRover and family , cannot be surpassed...

nanuq · September 2004

I just completed a slate flooring project, and the opening move was to get the materials home from the store. I brought home a little over 2500# of slate in one trip with the Discovery, and she handled the chore just fine. Effortlessly. Granted she was squatted a bit in the hindquarters and the rear suspension did bottom on one bump, but once unloaded she is right back to normal.

I have camped and plowed and trooped and skied and sledded and hauled with this truck for 5 years, nearly 6, all over Alaska in all conditions. Since my warranty expired I have had ONE failure: my viscous coupler died from olde age. This truck has lived a hard, but well-maintained, life with me and she still drives as new. Meanwhile every one of my relatives is on their 2nd or 3rd truck since Anuqa came to my driveway, and they have payments and problems.

Oh, and three of those trucks have been Jeeps.

odiopus · September 2004

The jet washers are a snap to replace... You have to get underneath and take if off from the bottom. Or in my case the washer just snapped off and didn't have to take it off (I too got lazy and went through a cloth car washer). The hose is also easy to hook up, there's a clamp that you can tighten once you get it hookep up to the line...

I would also like more info on the "subwoofer noise" job you mentioned earlier...

Odiopus

discoman · September 2004

Nihilist

That's great for you. I am thrilled that he is having so much fun with his Audi(Volkswagen) wagon. I am sure he doesn't miss his Rover.

But, why are you still on the LR website? All people have different tastes, and not everyone looks the same way at a car. In your case it's a tool, so when you didn't need that tool anymore, you put it down and got a new tool.

For some it's image, and they enjoy that image. It makes them feel as good as buying a new shirt. These people will usually get a new one every few years because they want to have the newest and latest. That doesn't necessarily mean the best. I have a 1996 Disco. I wouldn't trade it for a newer one, and when I was getting a Freelander for my wife, the dealership practically begged me to trade it, offering well over blue book. These 96-97 Disco's are the best ones. They have a locking center Differential and don't have all the troubles the Series II has had.

Then you have die-hards. They are the ones who will keep something for as long as it lasts, because as long as it looks good, and runs good, who cares how old it is? I am not a mountain man, mudder, rock climber. I do go off road several times a year, fishing, and camping, and live in a climate where I don't want to have to worry about whether or not it's going to freeze tonight, or snow on my way home from work.

My point is this. Don't knock, mock, or laugh at someone because they like a certain type of vehicle. And if it makes them feel good, so be it. Everyone should be able to drive a vehicle that makes them feel good about themselves. Not everyone has to be practical. Some even have stories about how their Rover saved their lives. Not everyone is as concerned with what other people think of them.

Land Rover's are rugged, tough, will last forever(If cared for), Easy to work on if you have the books (I do my own maintenance because I enjoy it). Classy, Chic, Masculine, etc.

They are also not very fuel efficient, (even though better than some out there),noisy, surefooted, handsomely ugly and I will probably own mine until I get buried in it. You can go camping in the mountains and wash off the mud and then go to the opera, and not feel out of place in either situation. They are timeless, never go out of style. And finally, not everyone had a $500 payment for 5 years. Most who did were happy to pay it. Some have theirs after they are paid for and didn't have to rush out and spend more money. So if you don't like it, Fine. Then go somewhere else and stop telling us what's wrong with our driving Rovers.

jrock80 · September 2004

I am actually posting this question for a friend of mine who is considering purchasing either a used 03 or 04 Discovery II SE. After looking at these fine automobiles I wish I would have almost waited and purchased one myself. I know that Rovers arent for everyone, but he really likes it. Our main concern is that we do not have a local dealer for niether sales nor service. The closest dealer for purchasing one of these vehicles is about 100 miles away. Given your experiences, would this be a safe purchase? Or is this a high maintenance vehicle that would require many trips for service and maintenance. I know each vehicle and owner has differant experiences, but we would be interested to know others thoughts on this purchasing decision.

Thanks!

mrtoad3 · September 2004

Let me say that owning my '01 DII has been so trouble free that I am amazed at its reliability. Many posts have complained about various little annoyances but I don't recall many major problem that people have had with their Discos. The nearest dealer is 60 miles away for me but that has not mattered except for routine maint. Buy the car if you like it. That's my 2 pennies worth.

nanuq · September 2004

Typically any problems with Rovers are in initial build quality... attention to detail. There's an old saying, "once fixed they STAY fixed" and I've found that to be true. Since BMW and now Ford have taken over Rover, a lot of effort has gone into quality control; I'd venture the guess that initial build is vastly better than it used to be.

If you do have any problems, it will be annoying to do the drive and get them fixed. But once they are fixed you won't be going back unless you want to.

My '96 DI has been utterly stone solid since my warranty expired, and I use her HARD here in Alaska. The only time I go to the dealer is for light bulbs (some are hard to find) or lubes... I really like the grease they sell for the swivel ball housings. Otherwise, you can have any competent mechanic work on her for you, or you can get some tools and DIY ... these are wonderfully accessible trucks for the backyard grease monkey.

Here's a shot of Anuqa in her element:
http://www.nanuq.net/Troop215/byronglacier2003/byron_rover.jpg

Good luck, -Bob

lightcahill · September 2004

jrock80,

For one more owners experience with a 2003 Disco SE, refer to my post # 3861. Our Disco has been rock solid since day one. Since our purchase came with free oil changes, I have been back to the dealer twice for that. I was also back to the dealer for one recall. None of the trips lasted more than an hour. I go again tomorrow morning for the 22,500 mile oil change.

I am hoping that they will have one of the new LR3 models in the showroom, but I think it will be too early for that.

That said, I would think carefully before I bought a vehicle where I knew that it was a 200 mile round trip to the dealer, even for free oil changes. If your friend can deal with the long drive, and s/he likes going off road, the Disco is one mighty fine vehicle.

Light Cahill.

nanuq · September 2004

Yikes, I get into the "Alaskan Mode" and forget that 200 miles is a long drive to most people.

It's almost 300 miles to the cabin we're building, and we go down every weekend.

It's good for the truck to take the occasional long drive... it gets the diffs and bearings heated up good so any moisture vents out. Especially if you go wading much!

aztec1sun · September 2004

My local LR dealer sent out letters inviting current customers for a special year-end sales event. Load of garbage! The first words out the salesmans mouth were "So, what color do you want?" There are no discounts, just blatant attempts to screw you out of your money. SE7 lease special was $2600 out of pocket, $560 monthly, 42months/15K miles per year. The $560 became $530 after I mentioned better terms on another SUV. Their trade-in offer was the same as the Mercury dealers, same as the Hondas, same as the Chevys. In not even 4 years of owning the 2000 Disco I lost $25,000 to depreciation. Thanks, Land Rover, great frigging deal! My advise - spend your money elsewhere.

gpp · September 2004

Well, I bought one last week (SE7) and the closest dealer is an hour or so away, assuming traffic. I figured with the prices where they are (about 8K off MSRP in this case) and the fact that I have no interest at all in the LR3, it was now or never. I can't comment yet on reliability, but I like the disco better than any other car I've owned. My only complaints are the steering wheel needs to be raised about an inch and the car is a little noisy. At low gears during acceleration, the engine makes a pattering noise, sometimes accompanied by a high pitched whine that seems to occur when the accelerator is released. I've done the mandatory 500 miles for breakin and plan to leave it with the dealer to see if this is normal when I can find the time (let's hope they can make some adjustments, since it's annoying the heck out of me, but mostly I just want to make sure that any mechanical problems are identified and fixed).

One other thing: The break pedal makes a switching sound and vibrates when the car is turned on. This occurs only when starting the car. I assume this is normal.

(Expert input on either of these issues would be appreciated mightily.)

The pick up is good, especially given the vehicle weight. I have had no problems with handling at all and moderate tests offroad have confirmed what I knew: it's a monster in sand, mud and water. Haven't yet tried her on the beach with deflated tires, but will probably get a chance this weekend. Have taken several day trips and am pleased with the comfortable seating. And I actually like the interior controls: they take all of 10 minutes to get familiar with. The gas mileage is better than expected, about 16 MPG on average which includes mixed highway and in-town driving. We've been using 89 (plus rather than premium gasoline) at the dealers recommendation. Breaking distance is better than expected. This may sound silly, but it has significantly better visbility in the rain than other cars I've owned. In this category, I've had a chevy blazer (complete trash: blew the engine twice, among other things, before I dumped it with only 60K miles) and a 2001 4Runner: this was a very good car, only problem was the cheap sourced rotors that Toyota uses; still the 4Runner lacks the panache and capability of the disco.

As far as routine service goes, it is covered for the first 45K miles. Beyond that I plan to do it myself (maintenance costs look much better now that I've found roverparts.com). Another question for experts: should I plan to change the oil before the manufacturer recommended 7500 miles?

The only extras I need: I plan to add a thule roof rack for canoe/kayak/bike/ski transport once I confirm that the high foot mounting system won't destroy the rain gutter. The roof rails that are installed by the factory are essentially useless cosmetics. I may add a ladder to the rear window if it's too hard to get big stuff on and off.

Greg

nanuq · September 2004

Congratulations!

A couple of thoughts... the whining sound you hear when you lift the throttle is the transfer case. It's gear driven (instead of chain driven) and it's massively strong. I believe it's the only 4WD on the market with this design. It will get quieter over time... I just learned to like it.

For a real eye opener, try driving her in low range... then you're using a set of straight-cut gears instead of helical cut, and they are NOISY. But oh so smooth.

I would change the oil and filter at 3k miles. I'd never go 7500 miles on any vehicle. Sure it *can* be done, sorta, but "oil is cheaper than metal" applies. Set up a lube change schedule and follow it annually or better. Your truck will last nearly forever if you do this. Annually I change my diffs, swivel balls, brake fluid, power steering fluid (ATF), transfer case lube and auto transmission fluid. Anything else (is there anything else?) gets changed evefy 3k miles (oil and filter). In summer I use Castrol 10-30w and WIX filters. In winter I see some COLD temperatures so I use Castrol Synthetic and it's something outrageous like 0-50w again with a WIX filter. You're looking at a lot of lube to recycle but it's worth it. If you're changing oil every 3k miles you don't need synthetic, even though it is a superior lube. Don't use an oil with a "spread" of more than 30 points... that's accomplished via polymers. Polymers are not lubes. Stick with 10-30.

I'm not sure what the pattering sound is. Perhaps some parts getting acquainted with each other?

Don't fall into the trap of replacing your rotors and pads at some ridiculously low mileage. I have to replace my front pads about every 15k miles (rears about every 25k) and I'm still on the original rotors at 92k miles. Get a micrometer and measure the rotors for minimum thickness. That's what matters. Pad replacement is a HOOT and super easy.

Brake pedal switching / vibration... no idea. Is it the ACE system? ABS? Mine doesn't do it but it's also a generation older than yours. I've got ABS but mine doesn't switch or cycle at cold start. I don't have ACE.

For visibility in rain, try Rain-X. I love the stuff. There's also a spray-on kind that you use WHILE it's raining. Great stuff! Who needs windshield wipers?!

I use a Yakima ski rack with my factory roof rails and crossbars. I tried the connectors till I found some that fit my crossbars... something like the A-10 or something. Your crossbars are different. Then the 6-pack Yakima went right on. And I busted them right off driving into my garage the first time. CAUTION!

I use a Rhode Gear receiver hitch bike rack for when I transport more than 2 mtn bikes. It was $109 online (REI?) Otherwise you can easily get 2 mtn bikes and helmets and gear and packs in the back. It'e more secure too.

Try driving in "3" instead of "D" around town at speeds up to 45-50mph. It will give you loads better response and the ECUs are "learning" computers and will quickly figure out what you're doing. Your mileage will be about the same and you'll love the performance.

Enjoy your truck! What are you naming her? Mine is "Anuqa" ... that means "wind" in Yup'iq eskimo.

-Bob

mrtoad3 · September 2004

Congrats on your purchase. You'll love it. As far as the brake noise, I believe it is the ABS/TC that cycles upon start-up. I have left my foot off the brake at start-up so the springy sound doesn't bother me that much. I have an '01 with the 4.0 V8. Change your fluids regularly as Nanuq recommends for best life. I use synthetic oil (Mobil 1 5W40) and K&N filter every 5000 miles for year round use. It gets really cold in winter but not too hot in summer in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. The pattering noise is something I've tried to address with the dealer as well but they can never hear it when the car is warm. It only does it when it is cold. I have 30K miles and it seems to not bother the engine. The tranny noise is normal but will get quieter with time. Hope all this helps. Enjoy.

lbuonomo · September 2004

Hi All,

I am thinking of picking up a 2004 Disco SE from dealer stock. Right now local dealer is giving $33K to buy but $38K to lease ($512 48M 15K) because he said they don't get the $4500 incentive on a lease. Could this be true.

Some dealers from Edmunds are offering $31.9K to purchase.

I Really like the Disco but I am a bit worried that either people love them or hate them.

I am considering the X3 also but I can't get a straight answer on its offroad capability.

I want to be able to drive on a beach and do some light off roading.

I think Discos at this price is a great deal. Wife likes the MDX and BMW because of their reputations.

Anyone care to offer a opinion ??

Thanks
Lou

nanuq · September 2004

Can you describe this pattering noise? What does it sound like? Engine noise? Drivetrain? Straight line only? Heavy or light throttle? Valve tappets? It sounds intriguing. What other sounds are similar to it (like... a shopping cart on a tile floor for example)?

Interesting!

gpp · September 2004

Based on my recent experience you should be able to get at least 6K off MSRP just by picking up the phone or walking in the door on the 2004 discos, probably more. The marketing incentive shouldn't factor into price negotiations when you work with the dealer; it's just icing on the cake.

The X5 is much nicer than the X3, overpriced, and perfectly adequate for light off road. You will get considerably more room in the disco over the X3.

Greg

burosky · September 2004

My 2001 Disco II SE7 had this loud humming sound coming from the engine compartment usually when I'm on idle and the engine is already warm. The dealer said it was because of a warped pulley. They fixed that about 3 months ago. Now the humming sound is back and I think it might be the same problem. I'm afraid it will turn into a constant irritation. Not too big of a problem while covered under warranty but I certainly don't want to pay for something like this every so often once the warranty expires. Has anyone experienced this?

02disco · September 2004

I had the same thing on my 2002. It's the belt tensioner pulley. It's a plastic part that you could probably replace yourself. Had mine fixed about a year ago and so far, no more problems.

gpp · September 2004

Bob, thanks for the info. I just informed my wife that we need to name the truck, so we're racking our brains. We've taken your advice and are driving on 3 in town, which is a mix of country roads and stop signs. We'll see how that works out.

The only other oddity I've noticed is a clicking (my wife says it's a clank, but it sounds like a click to me) sound when the accelerator is first depressed after removing the foot from the pedal while the car is moving; I observed this at 35-50 mph or so. It only appears to happen sporadically and only when the car has been running for some time (say 45 minutes to an hour).

The car continues to perform very well under a wide range of conditions. If it weren't for the gas mileage, I'd probably buy a second so we both could have one.

Greg

mrtoad3 · September 2004

Nanuq, The pattering noise occurs when the engine is cold, light throttle- kind of like it is a diesel engine rather than gas. Tappety is a good description. The dealer can never hear it because by the time I get there it is warm from 1 hour drive. It has always been there since day 1. I tried using conventional oil for first change, then went to synthetic, back to dino without any improvement or change. I currently run synthetic 5w40. Performance is never effected by the noise. Weird! What do you think?

discoman · September 2004

OK THe whining doesn't go away, you just get used to it. My 96 still does it. Like bob said, it comes from the transfer case since it is gear driven and not chain driven. The clank/click/patter happens because it takes time for the engine to get oil covering all the valve lifters when you first turn it on. By the time you get to the dealer, the engine is warmed up and everything is running smooth. It's not good practice to keep switching between Synthetic and regular oils. The engine will gunk up if you keep it up. If you use synthetic, stick with it. Oil changes. I have had no problems sticking with a 5K rotation. But my driving isn't as extreme as Bob's. I agree with the annual diff and transfer case lube change and also the annual tranny fluid. No, you don't need to change the transmission fluid filter every year. My wife has also named ours, but I can't post the name. It has to do with my supposedly spending more time and money with it than her, so she says she is the other woman in my life.

nanuq · September 2004

Pretty catchy title eh? No wonder they call these beasties "Discos".

GPP, you might be hearing the infamous drivetrain "clonk". There is an appreciable amount of play in the drivetrain, and when you get things nice and warmed up and then lift the throttle and reapply it, you get the nice "clonk" tone. Not to worry.

The pattering sound has been happening to mine since day one. I asked the mechanic about it and he gave her a listen and smiled. It's the nature of the beast. I was concerned but now at 93k miles she doesn't use (or leak) a drop of oil, my lifters are tight, and she runs like a scalded cat. It is just like a diesel sound but much "lighter".

For awhile I thought perhaps the oil filter was leaking and draining back into the sump, forcing it to refill the oil galley before it came up to pressure. I experimented with all kinds of filters and none made it go away; some made it worse. I was concerned it was the sound of dry rod bearings. Now I've settled on Napa Gold or Purolator Premium or Wix filters and they all seem to hold oil just fine. For awhile I was running the Wix 51515 which is the replacement for the Fram PH8A ... it's a perfect fit and it's got HUGE filtering surface area. But sometimes it would knock a bit as I started her up and that spooked me. I'm back to the smaller filter body now and I'm pleased with how quickly she builds oil pressure upon start.

One more noise to watch for... the exhaust manifolds connect to the Y-pipe with a flange and three bolts per side. If one of the bolts vibrates loose you'll get a spectacular poofing sound from leaking exhaust gasses on-throttle. The diff side is a pain to get at but all the nuts are a straight shot with a socket and extension... piece of cake to retorque.

Una inuuq aaniqtuuq, -Bob

stever · September 2004

Una inuuq aaniqtuuq,

Does that mean "it's only Sept. 24rd and we already got 6 inches of slushy snow"?

Got your studs on?

Steve, Host

nanuq · September 2004

Studs? We don't need no steeeeenking studs!

YARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR WE GOT SNOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've already been out sliding around in it! BOOYAA!

gpp · September 2004

Once again, great info. So how do I find out more about the infamous drivetrain clonk for my own edification?

Greg

nanuq · September 2004

Google the terms "ROVER CLONK" and enjoy!

What's reported applied to earlier LT230 transfer boxes and some transmissions (manual and auto). It had to do with mainshaft spline fretting and parts redesign. But your new truck should be well past this series of transmissions.

My guess is it's related to the many cumulative bits of free play in your drivetrain and when you go from throttle to lifted throttle back to throttle it hits both ends of the free play. When you get back on the gas it takes up the play and the driveshaft resonates the impact as a "clonk".

Mine has done it for 8 years now with no damage or clonk increase. I just remember to take it easy when I'm rocking fore and aft to unstuck it from a snowbank.

aghadden · September 2004

Help? I've got a 2000 Disco II with about 65K on it. It sat at the airport all last week while out of town, and when I returned the "Service Engine Soon" light on the dash is now illuminated. It's running fine. Is this somehting that can be checked and re-set easily? Thanks for any help,

Greg

nanuq · September 2004

What that means is, you're due for your 65k mile service. That's all. With older Discos it was easy to reset the light, I think the newer Disco IIs require a trip to the Testbook at the dealer.

div2 · October 2004

I haven't looked in on this topic for a while, but my wife has become interested in picking up an older(1999-2001) SII Disco. As always, I plan to do most of the maintenance/repairs myself, so I'm not expecting running costs to be excessive. That said, are there any years I should avoid or problems I should look out for? Thanks!

habitat1 · October 2004

Is the new LR3 intended to replace the Discovery?

I hadn't even considered a Land Rover until a friend suggested it - the vehicles on my shopping list for a December +/- purchase are the XC90 (prefer new V8), the GX470, and the Pilot/MDX.

The LR3 HSE would have an MSRP of around $52k the way I want it. I can get $5,500 off MSRP on a GX470, bringing it down to around $44.5k including navigation. If I could get the LR3 around the same price, I'd consider it, but probably not at full MSRP.

Any thoughts / comments?

davidc1 · October 2004

I have LR3, GX470 and Cayenne on my shopping list. GX seems to make the most sense (perceived reliability, resale, relative value, etc..). But Cayenne's performance is appealing. My guess is that it will ultimately come down to LR3 vs GX since I don't wanna spend more than $50k. I am assuming you'll go for the '05 model for either. I don't know that you can get 5500 off on '05 GX. I am willing to wait six months or more to get the deal.

habitat1 · October 2004

After test driving the XC90 again today and reading early press on the upcoming V8 version(315 hp / 6-speed transmission), I think that is the likely way I will go.

The 2005 GX with the upgraded V8 engine (280 hp) would also be tempting, if I can get a good deal on it before the end of the year. But if I have to wait until 2005 anyway, I think the XC90 V8 is going to be the best fit for us. Not as off-road capable as the GX470, but a far tighter handling vehicle and with the V8, performance that is right in line with the Cayenne S. I would have given Lexus the advantage in reliability but, in fact, there are vibration issues and other problems that seem more prevalent in the GX than the XC90.

After reviewing some reasle data on the Land Rover, I've concluded that you better be damn sure you want to keep one for life or you will get hammered on depreciation. The Discovery is dead last by a large margin in its estimated retained value after 2-3-4-5-6 years, compared to every other SUV we've even remotely considered. The Volvo, GX and Pilot are essentially tied for the best. Even the Touareg has better projected resale than the Discovery and, likely, LR3.

davidc1 · October 2004

Hmm... I am intrigued that you are settling down on the Volvo. I would definitely wait and see if XC90 V8 is in fact comparable to the Cayenne S. Also, I hear that it's a real [non-permissible content removed] to get to the third row. Let me know what you discover. Perhaps I shoud look into it as well. Regarding LR3, I seriously doubt that its resale value will be similar to Disco. It's really an all new vehicle, one that gives Range Rover a run for its money, IMHO. I am having difficult time seeing why anyone would pay 20K+ more for the RR now.

nanuq · October 2004

Of course it's my personal opinion but I'd look for an SD model ... fewer goodies to take care of. I'd also avoid the 99-00 DII model years 'cause there were some teething pains. Actually the last run of the DI would be nice... it was available during those years and it had all the bugs worked out. You can tell it from the DII by the lower tail-lights and shorter rear end. Entrance to the back seats is better and you can see out of the truck better than you can a DII (visibility-wise).

If you go back further than that, avoid a '96. That was the advent of the GEMS-4 system and sticking exhaust valves.

My advice is to go for a '97 - '00 Disco Series I and to find a nice low-mileage version. My '96 still drives like new at 93k miles, and I use her HARD. It also has the locking center differential, which became unavailable on the DII for awhile.

If you do want a DII then I'd start looking more toward the '01 - '02 model years. BMW was involved and a lot of bugs were worked out. It had the simpler Rangie axles and the Bosch engine management system, replacing the often quirky Lucas.

If you're looking under the hood and aren't sure which EMS it has, just look around the blocks and connectors for the words Bosch or Lucas.

Good luck! -Bob

div2 · October 2004

Thanks for the advice. I actually prefer the DI as well. I found a nice 1998 yesterday with only 78K on the clock. We'll see what happens...

nanuq · October 2004

Good find! Give it a close look-over. At that many miles it's barely broken in. Get a full listing of its history by VIN from a dealer. They can do that and it will point out any chronic problems. But chances are, at that age and that many miles, it's been a good truck.

tyresmoker · October 2004

You need to compare apples to apples. The old Disco has its issues, therefore the residuals (and overall demand)reflect this.
Look at the residuals on the new Range Rover ('03 and up) compared to the outgoing model. Because the '03 is light years ahead of the old one, it is a much more desirable vehicle, as a result, strong resale.
I am confident the same will happen with the LR3.

Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

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