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Comments
Any ideas? What are the chances of finding a rebuilt modulator out there?
For a lark about a month ago, I took it to a Nissan dealer to discuss trading it on a new Xterra (a pretty junky vehicle, compared to the LR) they only offered me $13,000. I was so shocked and disgusted at the lowball price, I walked out on the salesman. He tried to tell me that the 2005 Land Rovers are making the Discovery Series virtually worthless.
Can this be true?
Any ideas?? Advice??
As far as the value is concerned, there is no question that the new LR3 will have an impact. (I just bought a 2004 Disco so I am well aware of it!). In addition, the Disco II has the older engine that was upgraded with many other changes in 2003. So you have a double hit.
I took a quick look at the TMV trade in pricing for the 2001 Disco LE with 54K miles and average condition. THe trade-in value was $13,600. Since Edmunds can be a little high as compared to Galves (in my experience anyway), the $13k offer maybe was a little low, but not that much.
You might want to check out the Real World Trade In Values forum..Terry is an expert in valuing used vehicles.
Good luck!
Just more fuel for my husband..Don't you just hate it when someone says "I told you so" and they are right?
Thanks again...
Lynda
tidester, host
People claim that ABS allows them to steer around obstacles while braking with ABS activated. I have never found this to be true.
Consider that a standard ABS system does not use accelerometers or any other device to measure cornering forces. All ABS does is measure to rotational rate of your wheels, and the change in that rate. ABS is designed to maximize braking traction... ideally it would use 100% of your traction to stop you.
BUT: if you're using 100% traction to stop, there is zero left over with which to corner. Meaning, you can't "steer around obstacles" unless the ABS system is using less than 100% of your braking capacity... which means I can do better with the system deactivated.
I think ABS was developed to help out the folks that tend to panic and stand on the brakes in a slide. For those people it's better than nothing. But for me, I'd love to have a console switch to easily override ABS.
Last point: when you bury your Rover in snow, you can often free yourself by locking the diffs and then "rocking" fore and aft with quick shifts and bursts of throttle. However, there is so much drivetrain momentum that you have to stab the brakes and stop the spin before you switch gears... otherwise it clonks badly. With ABS activated it intercepts that quick stab of the brakes and reduces the braking power available. It allows the drivetrain to continue spinning and prevents you from shifting fore/aft quick enough to rock yourself out of the ditch.
Just my $.02 -Bob
The '99 was about the pinnacle of the SI line, and you shouldn't worry about it being 5 or 6 years old... what matters is the miles. You say it has low miles... how many exactly? Any part will wear out, and at around 100k miles you can start watching for failures of the alternator, power steering pump seals and *maybe* the ABS pump.
Mine is a '96 with 92k miles and it still drives and operates as new. Over the last 6 years it has cost me 5 sets of brake pads, lots of little light bulbs, one viscous coupler (water pump) and many oil/lube changes. That's all. I use it hard offroad all the time. Nothing breaks, but things do wear out.
My '96 is the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned, hands down. That's included lots of Fords, Hondas and Chryslers. The *other* car in the garage is a Ford and I've sunk nearly $6,000 into it over the last 2 years. At this point I can't afford to get rid of it.
It is not a poor choice to buy a 5- or 6-year old vehicle if you plan to keep it indefinitely. Especially if it's designed to be durable. If it's been well cared for there are many good years left in it. You can find out a lot of its service history by VIN at a Rover service center.
Good luck, -Bob
Anyone else with an opinion?
I leased a 2002 sd discovery and the list price was 43900.00 Canadian and after 1 and a half years the offer to by from my local dealer is 19000.00 It has 50,000 Kms and i would have to take a 11,000 dollar loss to get out. I think that i got a bad one and thats why i want out. This might give you some ideas of how much money you WILL loose.
Others to consider:
64 1/2 Thunderbird
65 Mustang
66 Camaro
69 Chevelle
63/64 Corvette
65 Sunbeam Tiger
and of course, the 65 AC Cobra.
I think the Disco over the long term will be a much better "investment" that a ford taurus or an explorer.
When you lease, you generally get gap insurance for such situations.
Steve, Host
Most doors are simple: the armrest has some bolts, remove them. Then there are screws at the door latch, remove them. Then go around the door and pop the innter facing loose from the door frame (via a million little plastic fasteners that pop into place) and voila... the inner face is off. Loosen the plastic water barrier sheeting and lube/adjust. Piece of cake.
While you're in there, lube the mechanism for the window lift too.
Best regards, -Bob
Be sure to try the Advanced Search feature - just click on the link beneath the search box in the left column.
tidester, host
Is this still the case with the 02' model.
Thanks for your input.
Discovery
----------------------------
235/70-16: Stock tire size.
205/80-16: Stock size in many other countries. same height as 235/70-16.
255/65-16: same height as stock
225/75-16: little taller than stock
245/70-16: little taller and wider than the stock size. reportedly, no need for lift, just minor trimming to fit those tires.
245/75-16: popular size for OME suspension lifted vehicles. require slight trimming on the rear wheel well fender, and may also call for adjustment on the steering bumpstops.
215/85-16: same height as 245/75-16. but narrower. seems to be preferred for the snow and mud.
265/70-16: about as tall as 245/75-16, but wider. will require more trimming and steering bump stops adjustments along with taller bump stops over the rear axle.
265/75-16: almost 32" tall. Same as stock NAS D90 tires. Will require even more trimming.
235/85-16: same height as 265/75-16 but narrower. And seems to be the most popular size with OME lift.
255/85-16: about 33" tall...very few people have fitted this size. Lots of butchering for this one.
285/75-16: about 33" also... but very very wide.
Discovery Series II
--------------------------
255/65-16: Stock tire size.
255/70-16: Just a bit taller than stock.
265/75-16: Taller and wider than stock, possible to fit without lift. minor rubbing. Looks real balanced with mild OME lift.
285/75-16: even taller than 265/75-16, r requires a bit more lift than the regular OME lift. some have fitted OME751 from Discovery series I, and changed SLS sensor in the rear to achieve almost 3 inches. Gearing and shaft strenght become issues.
255/85-16: a bit taller than 285/75-15 but narrower. Gearing and shaft strenght become issues.
Thanks for the Tire Fitment. I don't plan on lifiting my truck. Do you know if there are any rubbing problems with 255/70/16? Speedo error? Reduced gas milage?
Thanks,
Kevin
I was sitting at idle at a drive -thru. All of sudden the warning chimes binged and 6 lights came on. I pulled over turned the truck off/back on and it went away.
Cause for concern?
The six lucky winners were
Brake
TC
ABS
HDC
Self Level
Off Road
I have 3 before but the first time for 6.
Best regards, -Bob
Try taking yours for a long hard drive, recreating the conditions under which it will fail, then parking it with the hood up so she cools faster. If that helps then look hard at the fuel delivery system... it will cool down lots faster than the engine block/manifolds.
I hope this helps, -Bob
I have also had good success with cleaning the fuse block beneath the hood. On my SI Disco it lies on the (NAS) passenger side, midpoint of the engine, about even with the rocker covers. It's maybe 8" long by 3" by 3" and has bunches of thick cables coming in its underside. It's made of black plastic. I just take off the cover and remove each link or connector one at a time, clean each metallic surface with a pencil eraser, to ensure good electrical connection, blow out the crud, and reassemble. I was having all kinds of bizarre electrical issues and this 15-minute job solved them.
Good luck!
2000 DII
Gosh, Kacy, that kind of defeats the purpose of a message board which is to share information and views - publicly! Stick around and enjoy the discussion. :-)
tidester, host
Thanks in advance for any help or reassurance. Been awhile since I posted here, but have followed the board enthusiastcally.
Bruce.
Water Leak Head Gasket replacement plus all coolant hoses replaced due to bulging at clamps
$2,800.00
Front and Rear Brake plus rotor replacement
$1,100.00 this is the 2nd brake replacement
Shutter Valve faulty ( you know the lights going off on your dash for no reason )
$2,280.00
60K Service
$650.00
That is a grand total of $6830.00, now this is close to half of what the car is worth ( Blue Book ) Now this may sound crazy but I do love the car, it has never left me stranded on a hunt or fishing trip ( but has left me stranded on highway )so what am I trying to say here? I really hope that the new LR3 is going to have a better track record at only 60,000 miles, I mean come on having this many issue's at this mileage is deplorable......
Anyone had exerience buying the Certified Pre-owned?
Thanks.
Steve, Host
I agree in general that this is obscene. None of these should be problems on a young, modern car (I've never heard of someone having a bad shutter valve at/around 60K, but I'm no mechanic).
Greg
As for the shutter valve, I assume that's an expensive part being replaced? I haven't heard of one. The air mass sensor on my '96 SI Disco is $1100 and I thought that was bad? Read back thru the posts here to see about electrical weirdnesses and possible solutions. I found one for my truck that took 15 minutes and fixed a BUNCH of problems.
Brakes and rotors: I'm at 96k miles and my 4th set of rear brake pads, 5th set up front. I just replaced the rear pads this weekend, it took perhaps 20 minutes per wheel, including getting the wheel off the truck, jacking it, replacing the pads and reinstalling the wheel. I'm on my *original* rotors and all is well. The pads were $34 (2 pairs) here in Alaska. It's easy and cheap... you can easily do this one yourself. I just don't see how the shop can expect you to change rotors. Mine are worn a little but nowhere near the minimum thickness.
The 60k service might be worth the money, they do a pretty extensive list of changes/inspections.
Good luck!
One thing to check is the breather tube that vents differential pressure to the outside. As you drive, that thing gets hot and the pressure has to escape. There's a breather to do this, and it can get obstructed with mud etc. Follow the tube and check the end to make sure it can breathe... overpressurization will forece lube out thru seals. Usually it's the axle seal that leaks but the pinion could do it too.
Best regards, -Bob