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Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

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Comments

  • 02disco02disco Member Posts: 2
    Hopefully someone can help. I have an '02 DII SE with just under 29K miles. In third gear, I feel a surging sensation starting about 35 mph and continuing to 50 or so. I only feel this when I leave the gearshift in third. If I have it in Drive, I guess it shifts to overdrive soon enough so I don't sense this. I had a mechanic at my LR dealer drive the truck with me riding in it and he said that all he could feel was the torque converter locking up and that everything seemed normal. If it's the torque converter, mine must be locking and unlocking every few seconds. Other than this, my truck has been trouble free, and one of the most fun to drive vehicles I have owned. Any thoughts as to the issue with the TC would be greatly appreciated.
  • lblairlblair Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2001 Discovery II w/ 54k on it. The other day, the ABS, TC and Hill Descent lights came on and didn't go off. I knew the front brake pads needed to be replaced and took it to a shop (not the dealer)The lights were still on when I got it back. They said to take it to the LR dealer. I called the dealer to inquire about the lights and they said it could be the ABS Modulator. There was a recall for the supports of the modulator, and I had that done at the 40k checkup. From what I understand, the ABS Modulator is around $2,500 just for the part. I'm going to take it in next week and pay the $75.00 for them to tell me what it is. At this point, the ABS is not working and it takes a lot longer to stop. If the problem turns out to be the modulator,there is no way I can afford to have it replaced. IF LR knows there is a problem (since they had a recall on the supports) is there anything that can be done? Obviously the recall did not address the entire problem. The dealer did say it could be a sensor, but from what I've read on this forum, that can be hit-or-miss. I'm in a panic over this. I bugged my husband to let me get this vehicle and he is not a happy camper. I can't trade it in now with those lights on and I will be stuck with a truck that has no value whatsoever. Not to mention a husband who says "I told you so"..(he's a Saab man) need I say more?
    Any ideas? What are the chances of finding a rebuilt modulator out there?
    For a lark about a month ago, I took it to a Nissan dealer to discuss trading it on a new Xterra (a pretty junky vehicle, compared to the LR) they only offered me $13,000. I was so shocked and disgusted at the lowball price, I walked out on the salesman. He tried to tell me that the 2005 Land Rovers are making the Discovery Series virtually worthless.
    Can this be true?
    Any ideas?? Advice??
  • peeetepeeete Member Posts: 136
    I cant help you with your technical problem, you might want to check out the forums on Discoweb for that. They are highly specialized.

    As far as the value is concerned, there is no question that the new LR3 will have an impact. (I just bought a 2004 Disco so I am well aware of it!). In addition, the Disco II has the older engine that was upgraded with many other changes in 2003. So you have a double hit.

    I took a quick look at the TMV trade in pricing for the 2001 Disco LE with 54K miles and average condition. THe trade-in value was $13,600. Since Edmunds can be a little high as compared to Galves (in my experience anyway), the $13k offer maybe was a little low, but not that much.

    You might want to check out the Real World Trade In Values forum..Terry is an expert in valuing used vehicles.

    Good luck!
  • lblairlblair Member Posts: 11
    Thanks for your input, even though it wasn't exactly what I wanted to hear. I'll check out the RWTIV forum, but I suspect they will only confirm what you (and the salesman) have said.
    Just more fuel for my husband..Don't you just hate it when someone says "I told you so" and they are right? :)
    Thanks again...
    Lynda
  • rhinopaddlesrhinopaddles Member Posts: 1
    If anyone out there is using the rectangle K&N Filter that drops into the factory intake I would SERIOUSLY reconsider. I have been using one for about 1000 miles on my 01 Discovery II and I recently had the Service Engine Soon light illuminate. The dealer read the code and said the engine was receiving reduced airflow. Furthermore, Land Rover has just released a factory bulletin stating these filters will void some warranty work on the vehicle. In layman terms, the filter is releasing fibers that damage an optical sensor in the intake which costs about $700-1000 to replace.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Here's the link: Real-World Trade-In Values

    tidester, host
  • mnrovermnrover Member Posts: 52
    Been noticing a lot more offroad accessories for the DI than the DII. Are the DI's better than the DII's as a truck for true off roading? I own a DII, and would like to look into purchasing a DI as a weekend offroad warrior. Any years of the DI's to avoid? Thanks!
  • kscctsksccts Member Posts: 140
    Yes, the DI is a better off-roader than the DII. Although the DII is no slouch.
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Member Posts: 1,150
    Not to be argumentative, but I thought that in the real world ABS will have only minimal impact on braking distances? (Granted they will help avoid locking up the brakes in an emergency stop.)Yes, no?
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Here in Alaska I disconnected my ABS and just live with the orange light on the dash. When reactivated ABS will modulate the brakes and supposedly give improved brake performance in snow, BUT... I haven't found that to be the case.

    People claim that ABS allows them to steer around obstacles while braking with ABS activated. I have never found this to be true.

    Consider that a standard ABS system does not use accelerometers or any other device to measure cornering forces. All ABS does is measure to rotational rate of your wheels, and the change in that rate. ABS is designed to maximize braking traction... ideally it would use 100% of your traction to stop you.

    BUT: if you're using 100% traction to stop, there is zero left over with which to corner. Meaning, you can't "steer around obstacles" unless the ABS system is using less than 100% of your braking capacity... which means I can do better with the system deactivated.

    I think ABS was developed to help out the folks that tend to panic and stand on the brakes in a slide. For those people it's better than nothing. But for me, I'd love to have a console switch to easily override ABS.

    Last point: when you bury your Rover in snow, you can often free yourself by locking the diffs and then "rocking" fore and aft with quick shifts and bursts of throttle. However, there is so much drivetrain momentum that you have to stab the brakes and stop the spin before you switch gears... otherwise it clonks badly. With ABS activated it intercepts that quick stab of the brakes and reduces the braking power available. It allows the drivetrain to continue spinning and prevents you from shifting fore/aft quick enough to rock yourself out of the ditch.

    Just my $.02 -Bob
  • kscctsksccts Member Posts: 140
    The only purpose of ABS is to keep the brakes from locking in a hard, panic type stop. They do allow you to possibly steer around an obstacle at the expense of possibly prolonging your braking distance. Overall, a safety improvement.
  • phillseaphillsea Member Posts: 11
    I have always liked Discovery's and I have a friend that is getting rid of his 99 with low miles. I am getting a decent price for it, but I am wondering about reliability. Does anyone have experience with the 99 Discovery (it is not a Series II, it's the older model)? Is this going to become a drain to keep repaired? Is it just a bad idea to buy a 5 (almost 6) year old car? How about what is going to happen to the value of the car with the new LR3 in 2005?
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    This is something we've discussed here several times; just search back thru the posts for lots of good thoughts.

    The '99 was about the pinnacle of the SI line, and you shouldn't worry about it being 5 or 6 years old... what matters is the miles. You say it has low miles... how many exactly? Any part will wear out, and at around 100k miles you can start watching for failures of the alternator, power steering pump seals and *maybe* the ABS pump.

    Mine is a '96 with 92k miles and it still drives and operates as new. Over the last 6 years it has cost me 5 sets of brake pads, lots of little light bulbs, one viscous coupler (water pump) and many oil/lube changes. That's all. I use it hard offroad all the time. Nothing breaks, but things do wear out.

    My '96 is the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned, hands down. That's included lots of Fords, Hondas and Chryslers. The *other* car in the garage is a Ford and I've sunk nearly $6,000 into it over the last 2 years. At this point I can't afford to get rid of it.

    It is not a poor choice to buy a 5- or 6-year old vehicle if you plan to keep it indefinitely. Especially if it's designed to be durable. If it's been well cared for there are many good years left in it. You can find out a lot of its service history by VIN at a Rover service center.

    Good luck, -Bob
  • phillseaphillsea Member Posts: 11
    Thank you for replying, Bob. I went through quite a few posts yesterday and all in all it sounds pretty positive. Your response just confirms what I was thinking. It sounds like a '99 with only 56k is going to be a pretty good gamble. It sounds like the S1 fits the bill pretty nicely. Thank you.

    Anyone else with an opinion?
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    I'd say he's taken the truck "over the hump". It has enough miles to have been used regularly, and that's good. If it was REALLY low miles then I'd say either he doesn't need the truck or it was such a gremlin-ridden pig that he hates it and he's dumping it. This smells like a good deal to me.
  • elgordoelgordo Member Posts: 1
    here is a little bit of info that might give you some help.
    I leased a 2002 sd discovery and the list price was 43900.00 Canadian and after 1 and a half years the offer to by from my local dealer is 19000.00 It has 50,000 Kms and i would have to take a 11,000 dollar loss to get out. I think that i got a bad one and thats why i want out. This might give you some ideas of how much money you WILL loose.
  • buroskyburosky Member Posts: 90
    To those I might offend, I apologize in advance. I don't understand it when people are so worried about the resale value of their cars. Are they buying cars as an investment? Unless a car is bought through a lease (in which case resale value doesn't apply), I thought the intent was to keep the car. If one is inclined to change their mind often about their choice of cars, leasing might be a better way to go. As for those who fear that reliability might be an issue then maybe that isn't the car for them. I maybe mechanically challenged but I do my homework before purchasing my car. This includes the financial aspect of owning it. If it turns out I still want the car, I go for it. If resale value is such a worry, perhaps going with the manufacturer and model du jour would be the thing to do. It seems that resale value is related to whatever is the most popular at the time. I suppose this is the simple rule of supply and demand. As for me, I could care less if my car was popular or not. What matters to me is I like it. If it turns out to be popular as well then that's just a bonus (I guess). In spite of the negatives that were revealed in my research, I felt the Disco was still what I wanted. This is why I opted for it. You can disagree but I am not interested in any debates. Just voicing my opinion.
  • kscctsksccts Member Posts: 140
    Very well said. No matter what vehicle you buy, it is a depreciating asset. If all one cares about is resale value then I would recommend leasing.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Hmmmmmmm. How about early SIII Rovers? I bet a good one is worth more now than it was new.

    Others to consider:
    64 1/2 Thunderbird
    65 Mustang
    66 Camaro
    69 Chevelle
    63/64 Corvette
    65 Sunbeam Tiger
    and of course, the 65 AC Cobra.
  • kscctsksccts Member Posts: 140
    Averaged out, the yearly return, even on a lot of collector cars, is not very good. Plus from whatever raw dollar return you have, you must deduct the time value of money, insurance, maintenence, as well as possible restoration costs. Of course, there are exceptions but essentially every auto is a depreciating asset. Outside of a few vehicles, no one should be buying cars as an investment. Unforutnately, this is a hard concept to get through to a lot of people.
  • peeetepeeete Member Posts: 136
    I just bought a 2004 SE new, and I have no doubt that it will depreciate like a rock. However, the Disco has a unique attribute. It will be, for may years to come, one of the best off-road vehicles in the world. The legions of die-hard off-road fans will keep buying them used. The declining supply will keep them in demand, if for nothing else as parts cars. (Maybe I will dismantle mine and sell the parts on ebay when the time comes!)

    I think the Disco over the long term will be a much better "investment" that a ford taurus or an explorer.
  • kscctsksccts Member Posts: 140
    Exactly. You're happy. That is what matters. If all people want is transportation, then buy a corolla or a civic. Something cheap with good gas mileage.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I tend to drive my cars a decade or more but I do worry about resale in the first two or three years of ownership. If someone hits my ride and totals it and the value has dropped like a stone, then I'm probably going to lose money replacing it.

     

    When you lease, you generally get gap insurance for such situations.

     

    Steve, Host
  • phill27phill27 Member Posts: 31
    My rear, passenger side door lock doesn't always unlock. After a second press of the button, the lock moves. How can I fix this problem BEFORE I need a replacement? I remember reading about applying lube to the locks. Can someone describe this procedure?
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    You can try squirting lube into the latch mechanism from the jamb side, but I don't think it will do much good. What's needed is to open up the door and lube/adjust it. It is super easy, definitely a DIY job. Google the terms and see if there aren't links to discoweb.org or lrna or atlantic-british with tips. Heck, look here at Edmunds first... maybe there's some info here.

     

    Most doors are simple: the armrest has some bolts, remove them. Then there are screws at the door latch, remove them. Then go around the door and pop the innter facing loose from the door frame (via a million little plastic fasteners that pop into place) and voila... the inner face is off. Loosen the plastic water barrier sheeting and lube/adjust. Piece of cake.

     

    While you're in there, lube the mechanism for the window lift too.

     

    Best regards, -Bob
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Heck, look here at Edmunds first... maybe there's some info here.

     

    Be sure to try the Advanced Search feature - just click on the link beneath the search box in the left column.

     

    tidester, host
  • botat1botat1 Member Posts: 12
    We looked and did our homework,we drove a variety of vehicles,and decided to purchase our 2oo1 disco .My wife and i like and enjoy the car,resale was number 10 on the list of concerns back in 2001,today we could care less, if we ever plan to sell it,we will deal with that monkey when the time comes!.For now we will deal with today,for tomorrow has enough trouble of its own.Just putting in my 2 cents today!! tomorrow ?? could go down to 1 cent.
  • kkonekkone Member Posts: 61
    I have a 2003 Disco with 18" wheels. I want to put some 16" Mirage rims with 255/70/16 BF Goodrich All Terrains instead of the stock 255/65/16. My truck is stock in height. BF Goodrich does not make a 255/65/16. Has anyone mounted these slightly taller tires on their Disco?
  • markodenmarkoden Member Posts: 1
    I'm thinking of buying a 2002 Disco II SD7 and it has only the stock radio/cassette player. Several years ago I had an earlier model and then it was nearly impossible to install an aftermarket stereo/CD player due to wiring problems (it would only take the LR single CD radio for $600).

     

    Is this still the case with the 02' model.

     

    Thanks for your input.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    From another site:

     

    Discovery

    ----------------------------

    235/70-16: Stock tire size.

     

    205/80-16: Stock size in many other countries. same height as 235/70-16.

     

    255/65-16: same height as stock

     

    225/75-16: little taller than stock

     

    245/70-16: little taller and wider than the stock size. reportedly, no need for lift, just minor trimming to fit those tires.

     

    245/75-16: popular size for OME suspension lifted vehicles. require slight trimming on the rear wheel well fender, and may also call for adjustment on the steering bumpstops.

     

    215/85-16: same height as 245/75-16. but narrower. seems to be preferred for the snow and mud.

     

    265/70-16: about as tall as 245/75-16, but wider. will require more trimming and steering bump stops adjustments along with taller bump stops over the rear axle.

     

    265/75-16: almost 32" tall. Same as stock NAS D90 tires. Will require even more trimming.

     

    235/85-16: same height as 265/75-16 but narrower. And seems to be the most popular size with OME lift.

     

    255/85-16: about 33" tall...very few people have fitted this size. Lots of butchering for this one.

     

    285/75-16: about 33" also... but very very wide.

     

    Discovery Series II

    --------------------------

     

    255/65-16: Stock tire size.

     

    255/70-16: Just a bit taller than stock.

     

    265/75-16: Taller and wider than stock, possible to fit without lift. minor rubbing. Looks real balanced with mild OME lift.

     

    285/75-16: even taller than 265/75-16, r requires a bit more lift than the regular OME lift. some have fitted OME751 from Discovery series I, and changed SLS sensor in the rear to achieve almost 3 inches. Gearing and shaft strenght become issues.

     

    255/85-16: a bit taller than 285/75-15 but narrower. Gearing and shaft strenght become issues.
  • kkonekkone Member Posts: 61
    Hey Nanuq:

     

    Thanks for the Tire Fitment. I don't plan on lifiting my truck. Do you know if there are any rubbing problems with 255/70/16? Speedo error? Reduced gas milage?

     

    Thanks,

    Kevin
  • anotherwagonanotherwagon Member Posts: 301
    Any ideas what would cause the dashboard to light up like a Christmas Tree??

     

    I was sitting at idle at a drive -thru. All of sudden the warning chimes binged and 6 lights came on. I pulled over turned the truck off/back on and it went away.

     

    Cause for concern?

     

    The six lucky winners were

    Brake

    TC

    ABS

    HDC

    Self Level

    Off Road

     

    I have 3 before but the first time for 6.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    I went with bigger tires on my SI Disco, but I don't have the actual size handy. They're about 2" larger in diameter than stock. They rub a little under extreme angulation but it's liveable. The one plus is that they completely corrected my speedo error! Now comparing my speedometer to my GPS indicated speed, it's spot on. My mileage hasn't changed that I'm aware of but I do have another inch beneath my diffs now.

     

    Best regards, -Bob
  • roveratlastroveratlast Member Posts: 7
    I have a major problem which my local LR dealer has been unable to find/diagnose/repair and I truly need help with this. The problem is that my Disco (2001) will intermittently refuse to start. This has been going on since May of 2004 and happens approximately once every 3 weeks. IF there is a pattern to this -- it appears to fail to start after having been driven at highway speeds for at least an hour and then having been parked for an hour or so. In other words, it always happens that I am stranded when I have driven out of town. However, I have now learned that if I wait at least 2 hours, it will start just fine. I initially took it to my Land Rover dealer and they were unable to locate a problem and told me I would need to bring it in when it happened (they are 90+ minutes away from my home). By coincidence, I was in their vacinity for an appointment the very next day and it refused to start. Had it towed in and they found a problem with the security system and replaced the BES module. However, the failures continued. After it failed again, I had it towed to the dealership (which took several hours) and by the time it got there, it started without a problem. They kept it a week, but could not reproduce the failure to start. I had thought that it was related to heat (both engine and hot weather) since it was most problemmatic during our hot summer (coastal N.C.) and seems to start after the engine has cooled significantly. However, it happened again just last week -- and it certainly wasn't hot then. Any ideas/advice/comments would be greatly appreciated. I have only 7K left on my warranty and no one can fix my problem. If I can't solve this, I am going to have to sell it due to this unreliability. I have been stranded too many times.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    The Series I Disco has a fuel rail that forms a loop in the vee of the intake manifold to feed the injectors. When I've had a hard climb with mine and park it, then come back in less than an hour, the fuel in the lines is vaporized and it refuses to run correctly. If I get it running and keep it going with the throttle for a couple minutes, the fuel pump pushes nice cold fuel up the lines and around the fuel rail, displacing the vaporized gas... then she runs like a scalded cat again. If I just put on the key and wait, I can hear the fuel pump running the system up to pressure but it can't push the vaporized fuel from the rail. If I can get it running (99% of the time) then all is well. She stumbles like crazy at first and then quickly gets over it.

     

    Try taking yours for a long hard drive, recreating the conditions under which it will fail, then parking it with the hood up so she cools faster. If that helps then look hard at the fuel delivery system... it will cool down lots faster than the engine block/manifolds.

     

    I hope this helps, -Bob
  • roveratlastroveratlast Member Posts: 7
    Nanuq: Thanks very much for your suggestion -- I am ready to try anything. However, when it "fails to start", the engine simply won't turn over so I'm not sure that I can get it running. I will, however, certainly take it out and try it.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I had a similar issue and my dealer spent thousands of dollars trying to fix it. In the end it turned out to be simply a bad battery.

     

    I have also had good success with cleaning the fuse block beneath the hood. On my SI Disco it lies on the (NAS) passenger side, midpoint of the engine, about even with the rocker covers. It's maybe 8" long by 3" by 3" and has bunches of thick cables coming in its underside. It's made of black plastic. I just take off the cover and remove each link or connector one at a time, clean each metallic surface with a pencil eraser, to ensure good electrical connection, blow out the crud, and reassemble. I was having all kinds of bizarre electrical issues and this 15-minute job solved them.

     

    Good luck!
  • roveratlastroveratlast Member Posts: 7
    I am now also wondering about something "electrical". Noted today when I filled my gas tank that the gas needle only moved up very very gradually and was still not showing full when I stopped about 20 miles later. When I cranked it later today to come home from work, the gauge did indicate that the tank was full. This was the second time that I have noticed this happen with the gas gauge. Does that sound related to you or simply coincidental????
  • kscctsksccts Member Posts: 140
    This happens all the time to me if I leave the key in the accessory position or if I leave the truck running while I fill up. Eventually, the gauge reads full. Odd, but I don't really find it a problem.

     

    2000 DII
  • kacykkacyk Member Posts: 4
    I had a 2000 Disco that I absolutely loved but it was in the shop for little things all the time. I finally sold it but have missed it as well. I'm looking at a 2003 with only 7,000 miles on it. It will be my wife's car. What has been your experience with '03 Disco's? Please, only comments from real owners please. We have 5 kids and I do not want my wife to be stranded. Please send comments to kacykang@hotmail.com. Thank you. Kacy
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Please send comments to...

     

    Gosh, Kacy, that kind of defeats the purpose of a message board which is to share information and views - publicly! Stick around and enjoy the discussion. :-)

     

    tidester, host
  • anotherwagonanotherwagon Member Posts: 301
    We have an 01 SE7 - two kids. Can't imagine 5 kids in that truck at all!
  • reiclimbreiclimb Member Posts: 1
    You should be able to. Although I have a disco I and they come with 235/70/16, I put on 245/75...The wheel wells on all disco's is and should be larger to fit a size taller tire. Some places may say they wont do it, but just keep trying.
  • brucewheelsbrucewheels Member Posts: 6
    I found a little puddle of what I assume is diff lube under the rear diff of my '00 Disco last night. Maybe two tablespoons. I called my dealer (whom I like and trust, BTW), and described it. He said it sounded like a pinion seal and that I should get it in as soon as I can for replacement. He can't take the truck until next Tuesday, however, and I've got to put about 500km on it between now and then. He didn't seem too concerned about that but... Is there someone here who can explain to me what this bit is and whether it's likely to escalate into something horrible if I keep driving for a couple more days?

     

    Thanks in advance for any help or reassurance. Been awhile since I posted here, but have followed the board enthusiastcally.

     

    Bruce.
  • raiderfan1raiderfan1 Member Posts: 12
    Hello all, from a LR fan who is a bit disturbed by my recent quote for repairs that need to be done. Here is the list from my Portland Land Rover dealer service shop:]

     

    Water Leak Head Gasket replacement plus all coolant hoses replaced due to bulging at clamps

    $2,800.00

    Front and Rear Brake plus rotor replacement

     

    $1,100.00 this is the 2nd brake replacement

     

    Shutter Valve faulty ( you know the lights going off on your dash for no reason )

     

    $2,280.00

     

    60K Service

     

    $650.00

     

    That is a grand total of $6830.00, now this is close to half of what the car is worth ( Blue Book ) Now this may sound crazy but I do love the car, it has never left me stranded on a hunt or fishing trip ( but has left me stranded on highway )so what am I trying to say here? I really hope that the new LR3 is going to have a better track record at only 60,000 miles, I mean come on having this many issue's at this mileage is deplorable......
  • murphy4murphy4 Member Posts: 92
    a used Land Rover. I love the old "Classic" that they made until 1995 and alos do like the looks of the Discovery. Anyone out there had experience in buying one as old as 1995?

     

    Anyone had exerience buying the Certified Pre-owned?

     

    Thanks.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    While waiting for responses, check out the links on the left side of the Certified Cars page for some buying tips.

     

    Steve, Host
  • gppgpp Member Posts: 13
    A few suggestions: 1) find an independent repair shop. A friend just got a three grand quote from a VW dealership, took it to a local shop, and got his problems solved for $600. 2) Do brakes/rotors yourself. Not sure whether you can do the rest yourself or not.

     

    I agree in general that this is obscene. None of these should be problems on a young, modern car (I've never heard of someone having a bad shutter valve at/around 60K, but I'm no mechanic).

     

    Greg
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Boy do I agree with that! These are not complex engines and any competent mechanic can fix a head gasket. I've done it a half dozen times on an old Honda I had... 8 hours max. Of course this V8 is more complex, but it's not an impossible job.

     

    As for the shutter valve, I assume that's an expensive part being replaced? I haven't heard of one. The air mass sensor on my '96 SI Disco is $1100 and I thought that was bad? Read back thru the posts here to see about electrical weirdnesses and possible solutions. I found one for my truck that took 15 minutes and fixed a BUNCH of problems.

      

    Brakes and rotors: I'm at 96k miles and my 4th set of rear brake pads, 5th set up front. I just replaced the rear pads this weekend, it took perhaps 20 minutes per wheel, including getting the wheel off the truck, jacking it, replacing the pads and reinstalling the wheel. I'm on my *original* rotors and all is well. The pads were $34 (2 pairs) here in Alaska. It's easy and cheap... you can easily do this one yourself. I just don't see how the shop can expect you to change rotors. Mine are worn a little but nowhere near the minimum thickness.

     

    The 60k service might be worth the money, they do a pretty extensive list of changes/inspections.

     

    Good luck!
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Don't sweat it. You'll be fine driving a few days. Don't prolong it though. That's an expensive differential. You can pull the plug yourself with a socket wrench and check the level. Refill with 80w gear lube as necessary. Check your book to make sure whether it's a hypoid lube.

     

    One thing to check is the breather tube that vents differential pressure to the outside. As you drive, that thing gets hot and the pressure has to escape. There's a breather to do this, and it can get obstructed with mud etc. Follow the tube and check the end to make sure it can breathe... overpressurization will forece lube out thru seals. Usually it's the axle seal that leaks but the pinion could do it too.

     

    Best regards, -Bob
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