Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

stever · March 2005

The easiest way to look back is with the Search This Discussion box. ->

You'll get hits like this early one:

nanuq, "Land Rover Discovery/Discovery II" #56, 6 Sep 2000 3:22 pm

(High 50's here Bob, but the hill is still open).

Steve, Host

disco97 · March 2005

I bought my first disco in 97, and I just pick up a 2000 seriesll, and that old feeling came back of driving enjoyment.
I had a 95 classic range rover and it was good but having a disco again is great. and site like this one really helps and get a information that you might not have known

thanks

peeete · March 2005

Ok, this may sound like a silly question, but are the batteries on the Disco undersized? My vehicle is only four months old, and yesterday I went out to the park and sat in it reading with the engine off for 2.5 hours, with the fan on the lowest setting. Naturally, the battery was almost dead when I tried to start the vehicle. It did work after I let it rest for a while.

I've done this many times before with cars that I've owned and this has never occurred. I wonder if a larger capacity diehard would make sense.

I guess Discos suck battery power like they do gas.

charlestyler1 · March 2005

I just purchased a 97 Disco. I've never owned a Land Rover. Unfortunately, the previous owner did not have an owners manual. I've searched the internet but have not found one, only "shop repair" manuals. As I'm sure you're aware, I have MANY questions. How to engage the cruise control, how to program the garage opener (my opener brand is a Chamberlain LiftMaster), where to find parts (the power steering pump has a very slow leak), etc. I would appreciate any feedback from the veterans of these fantastic vehicles!

anotherwagon · March 2005

I've seen many manuals on ebay at different point in time. Worth a try. Good luck.

above45th · March 2005

I was going to post a similar question so I'm jumping in on this one....

I also just got my first Disco and it also did not come with a manual. I have seen many on ebay, but was leaning toward the CD service/owner's manuals I have also seen there. They are typicaly cheeper and I would assume contain a whole lot more usefull information. Most of the Disco's I looked at had no manual, is there some black market for them?

Any insite (as always) is greatly appreciated.

Bill

discoman · March 2005

You are right. Many people keep their manuals and sell them on e-bay. Or just keep the nice leather bound binders for other things and throw the manual away. I bought a manual on e-bay, as well as the CD and have never been sorry. Here's some more for you charlestyler1. The PS leak, is common, and almost impossible to stop. Just keep a bottle of ATF handy to top off once in awhile. The leak is on the bottom of the reservoir, and might be fixed with a hose clamp. Be careful not to tighten too much or you will be buying a new reservoir. As far as the Cruise control, it's pretty easy. The switch on the dash that looks like a picture of a bridge going over a highway is the Cruise control master switch. (The symbol actually means "Motorway", which British for "Freeway") Once that light is on, just pull back on the top switch on the steering wheel and it will set it. Keep in mind that the coast function is different than you are used to. You have to pull the bottom switch and then pull the top one again once you are at the new speed. If the master is on, and the c/c won't engage, check the vacuum hoses under the hood. The C/C vacuum hose is a rubber hose that is on the left side of the firewall in front of the driver. You will see it come out and come to a "T". One heads forward to the pump, and the other goes to the accelerator. The hose may be split or deteriorated and not hold a good vacuum. I had to cut a good 2" off mine right at the "T" and re-attach it to make the cruise work.

As far as parts, there are several parts houses online such as Atlantic British or Roverconnection that have parts at a very reasonable price. Just be ready to work on it yourself.

discoman · March 2005

Bob, or Tincup

Have either of you seen this one yet? I have been having trouble lately when I go to start my truck, that I turn the key all the way forward, and nothing happens, then if I let it go back and try again, it will turn over, but not start. I have to turn the key all the way back, and then all the way forward for it to start. I understand the second part, but not the first. All the lights come on on the dash when the key is in the ON position, but when I turn it to START nothing happens. Only if I go all the way back and back to start, it starts right up. It's not the Fuse thing, I already cleaned that. I wonder if my ignition switch is going bad. Any ideas? I don't want to get stranded anywhere.

nanuq · March 2005

It happens to me too when I'm in too much of a hurry.

When you turn on the key in a quiet environment, give a listen to the passenger footwell... there's a lot of solenoid clicking going on over there. If I rush it, I'm guessing something doesn't happen before the key makes "start" contact and the ignition isn't active or whatever. So it will crank but not spark. This is just my gut feeling from how it operates. When I back the key off to "off" position and then go forward again slowly it always works.

Remember all the interconnected systems on these beasties... my advice is to get in and turn the key one click then another, then another and listen to her go.

discoman · March 2005

I understand that part Bob, but in mine sometimes it won't even crank. If I stop the key in ON, everything looks good, all the warnings come on etc.. but when I turn it to start nothing happens. No cranking, no clicking, nothing. If I let it go back to on, and try cranking a second time, it will crank and not start. Then I have to back it all the way to off, and it will start right up. This is a new thing. Never did it before. Also I have been noticing that the lights dim whenever driving at night, and I use any other power, like brakes, turn sigs, windows, etc. No pulsing wqhich would indicate a bad alternator, buit a dimming. Wonder if it's a bad battery???

nanuq · March 2005

You have a '96 right? Take a look at the fuse block beneath the bonnet (I love saying that). It's midpoint at the engine, passenger side, about 8" long by 3" wide, black, with a bunch of cables going in beneath it.

Scan back thru these posts and look for topics about cleaning it. All your electrical systems distribute from there, and if you have bad connections there, everything "downstream" will be weird. All the ECUs depend on clean power, and poor connections at the fuse block prevent that.

Good luck! It fixed ALL my electrical weirdness.

discoman · March 2005

That was the first thing I did. (at least this time I had the radio code :-)) Same thing. I don't seem to have a problem with that fuse block, but I don't go off road near as much as you. I am just concerned about getting stuck somewhere. I can get the electrical part of the ignition switch for about $100. I might just change it out and see if that is it. If not, I guess I can always return it. I do wonder if my battery is going bad because of the dimming (See previous posts) It is about 5 years old. I might just replace it with an Optima spiralcell since that's about the lifespan for a battery.

nanuq · March 2005

Maybe Lord Lucas has found your truck! Have you done an LLD (Lord Lucas Disclaimer) recently? Here's mine:

My Land Rover is the most pathetic, miserably engineered piece of polar bear dung ever to roll on 4 wheels. If its quality of construction was dynamite it couldn't blow out a candle. The electrical system engineering was discovered on the wall of King Tut's tomb, that's how archaic it is. It's a miracle the thing doesn't burst into flames just sitting there. Wait, that would mean there's a working electrical connection someplace and THAT just ain't gonna happen. I loathe this piece of pathetic British junk.

There, think that will keep him away a bit longer? So far so good!

Seriously... do try a new battery. And with your engine running check the voltage at the battery terminals. It should be near 14v. Perhaps your alternator is getting old too? It's time. Same for me.

Good luck! Keep us posted. -Bob

98discotex · March 2005

Am about to head out and see about tieing in wiring to add a trailer to my '98 Land Rover LE. Am going to have one more cup of coffee in hopes I'll get some inspiration! Thanks!

grayghoster · March 2005

We have a 2002 Discovery II, operating in Colorado, 5,000' elevation.

Uphill and down, up in the Rockies or out on the flats, we see an average between 14 and 17 mpg. I don't think we've ever seen anything as low as 10.

grayghoster · March 2005

I have a 2002 Disco II, and just started having that problem. But wait... there's more.

First, the key can go all the way and no engine turnover. Take it out, repeat, same thing. Then try a Windows 98 solution: everybody get out, lock the vehicle, get back in, it starts fine.

New one: while driving, turn on the radio. Nothing. But when you turn off the engine at the end of the drive, the radio goes on.

Repeat the process: start the engine, turn on the radio (no radio), turn off the engine, and the radio starts.

nanuq · March 2005

If you open the right rear corner in the plastic (where the jumpseats go) you'll find the backside of the passenger side taillight housing and its wiring. If I remember right there's a plug right there just waiting for trailer lights. Give 'er a try!

tsxremote · March 2005

hi,

DiscoveryII, no warranty, has drops of oil leak. Dealer said change the head gasket on next service, if it continues. Asking around $4500. too much pricy. Any suggestions?

tidester · March 2005

Any suggestions?

Yes. Don't buy it until the problems are fixed - right! :-)

tidester, host

climatic · March 2005

I am looking into purchasing a 1999 Discovery with 95,000 miles. Carfax comes back clean on it and it is honestly a one owner vehicle, very clean, immaculate actually. The dealer that has it is not a Land Rover dealer and I am concerned about the possibility of huge repair bills. I contacted the local LR dealer and had them check the vin# for service history but only came up with a visit at 74,000 miles for new brakes and a steering box. The purchase price is very reasonable but again I am not looking for a money pit. Just a safe reliable SUV for on and off road use. Any comments or suggestions are appreciated.

discoman · March 2005

Bob, Tincup, and yes, now Greyghoster. Al my problems are solved!!!!!!!!! I went and got a new battery. Yes, A new battery. and now it works just peachey. Sarts right up, doesn't do wierd things like all the locks going up or down whenever I turn the key (A good one I hadn't goten to yet). Turns out the battery I had inherited from the previous owner was getting kinda long in the teeth, and some of the cells were bad. I never woulda thunk it.

nanuq · March 2005

Unbelievable! When I bought mine it had ALL KINDS of weird problems. Bizarre unrelated stuff. In frustration the shop finally tried replacing the battery... bingo. WHY DIDN'T I REMEMBER THAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for letting us know of the good outcome!

nanuq · March 2005

What you have there, is the perfect vehicle. Its history is known and documented and it has had no weirdness. There is no reason to believe it will start misbehaving now. My '96 has 96k miles and it is absolutely stone reliable and rock solid. There is no end in sight for this truck, nor should there be one for yours. I strongly recommend you go for it!

Good luck! -Bob

nanuq · March 2005

My front brake pads wore out yesterday so I picked up new pads today and replaced them. Let's see, is that the 5th or 6th set on the front? I always buy the softest pads possible. They don't last long but the rotors sure do!

I jacked it up, removed the wheel, pulled two cotter pins, pulled the two pad retainer pins, pulled the pads, inserted the new pads, slid in the retainer pins and put in new cotter pins. It took about as long as it takes to type that sentence. Then I put the wheel back on, lowered it and tightened the lugs, and repeated on the other side. Total time? Less than 30 minutes.

C'mon folks, you can DO this stuff! These trucks are so easy to work on!

Cheers!

climatic · March 2005

Nanuq-
Thanks for the input. I took the leap and now am the proud owner of a 1999 Land Rover Discovery SD. After driving the beastie all day I have realized that this machine was built for me. I have never felt so completely comfortable in a vehicle. Being 6'4" I have often found myself slouching behind the wheel of our Explorer just to get a good look out the windshield. The ride of the F-150 we own also pales in comparison to the sure-footed nature of the Discovery. I'm a bear hunting guide in northern Minnesota and cannot wait to unleash this machine and take it through the swamps and logging trails on our land up here. The wife did make me promise though that no bears would ever be riding shotgun. (You never can get the smell out after they hitch a ride.)

nanuq · March 2005

Congratulations! It sounds like you're going to really use your truck, and you're gonna love it. If you spend much time in the muck be sure you check the fluids in your diffs and swivel balls regularly. A hot swivel (from a long drive) when doused in cold water will suck water in thru the swivel seal and contaminate the gear lube inside. If that gets contaminated and if your axle seals aren't good then the milky lube can migrate in to your differential. It's easy to check, and it doesn't cost much to keep those fresh. When refilling the swivel (make sure not to overfill) turn the wheel hard toward that side of the truck and the gear lube will pour in a lot easier.

Enjoy your beastie! -Bob

rogers1 · March 2005

had 4 alternators in 120,000 mls in 96 300 TDI
Someone inthe trade says the Lucas Marelli units have weak bearings so are ther conversion brackets for Nippon Denso or other reliable [non-permissible content removed]/German 100 amp units?

duder1 · March 2005

Is there an answer for exauhst valves "sticking"? I have an 02 Disco II and a few people have said the heads would need to be rebuilt soon due to the exhaust valves sticking. Is it carbon build up that is causing the valves to stick and would a closed loop injector cleaning system/machine would take care of it? Or is there any issue with the valves at all on an 02? Trying to figure out who's blowing smoke :-) My Disco is running fine, no misfires or codes, etc- just don't want a 3K repair bill any time soon. Input would be great! Thanks all.

nanuq · March 2005

You have absolutely nothing to worry about. This started with the advent of the GEMS system in 1996 and they fixed it with a new design of "carbon cutting" valve stems. I had my engine done for free by the factory... it's been redesigned since and there is nothing to worry about. A '95 could have the problem, a '97 might, lots of '96s did... nothing after that.

Cheers and enjoy your truck! -Bob

discoman · March 2005

I have the problem occasionally with my 96. Well it's either that, or the fact I need to get a new Catalytic Converter. But I manage to keep it in check by never buying cheap gas. Usually Shell or Chevron, and every once in awhile I get some valve cleaner and run it through. I also ran Slick 50 at around 82000 and I get the problem rarely. I am running at around 107,000 miles so far. By the way Bob, did you get the recall yet on yours for the Gas Tank? I am taking mine in this Friday. They are goping to give me a new gas tank. I am also wondering if anyone out there has installed the Borla S/S exhaust. I need to get a new one, and am thinking of going with the Borla. Supposedly gives you more HP and better gas mileage. And has a Million Mile Warranty. I wanna put it to the test.

nanuq · March 2005

I haven't heard about this one! Whassup?

duder1 · March 2005

I had talked to the LR dealer- said the 4L had more valving problems than 3.9L in the older models. Whats the GEMS System?? Thanks for the input- any electrical gremlins that you guys have run into beyond the batteries?? As far as the Borla exhaust- Primo stuff. I don't know if Flowmaster has anything for LR but their sound and HP gain are usually the highest gains for the buck. Used to run on my drag car.

discoman · March 2005

Bob

I got a letter in the mail fro LR. They told me that there is a recall out on all Discoveries with plastic gas tanks. (Yeah, Yours too) Apparently they get cracks in them over time under extreme weather and off road contitions. Some might smell of fuel and even leak, depending on the extent of the cracks, so they are recalling all of them and replacing the gas tanks with steel. I go on Friday to take mine. Gonna get the belt changed and throttle body cleaned while I'm at it. After all I am over 107K.

vandy2004 · March 2005

From the messages I have read on the oil forum, it seems that viscosity modifiers can gunk up an engine. So, do I have to use 10W30, etc., or can I use straight 30 weight in the summer. I live in Tennessee where the summer daytime temp. ranges from 60-70 degrees in the morning to 90+ at noon.

The owner's manual recommends 10W40, so it makes sense to me that a single grade oil would work. Can I use it? What is 30-weight oil used for?

nanuq · March 2005

Discoman, buy the serpentine belt tool and DIY ... it pays for itself many times over and it is EAAAAAAASY. Piece of cake. The throttle body is a little trickier, especially the small hoses up around there.

Duder: Yeah the GEMS appeared with the 4.0L engine. That's a global (?) engine management system and it was great but the combination of engine timing and valve stem design led to carbon deposits on the exhaust stems... which is why top end cleaner doesn't help. The carbon cutting valve design sorted it.

Vandy: straight-weight oil is often used in older engines where the bearing journals are quite worn and it's hard to maintain oil pressure in critical areas. A modern engine will often work better with a multi-grade so the oil is thin when it's cold and it flows into tight journals easier so you have less wear on startup. Then it thickens up as the temps rise so you have good oil film under high heat.

Don't go over a 30-point spread from low to high on the numbers unless it's synthetic oil. Big viscosity spreads are achieved via polymers... and polymers don't lubricate. Try a 10-30w oil. I use 0-30w in winter.

dkstar0809 · March 2005

Hey all,

Purchasing an 01 Disco. I've got the option of taking a 6yr 100K warranty through LR, or a 4yr unlimited mile warr. through a highly rated 3rd party. LR warranty is about 900 dollars cheaper, but I'm curious as to what people's thoughts are. Anyone have bad experiences ie. denied claims through the LR extended warranty program.

Also, anyone know of a licensed independent repair facility in the Denver metro area? I'm assuming maintenance costs will be less than through the dealership.

Thanks in advance

virginiadisco · March 2005

I bought the 80K extended warranty and have not had to use it yet but I think it was pretty much the same as the 3rd party ones.

I have an 01 also and love it, but it does require a lot of maintenance. Also.. a word of advice. Make sure your auto insurance has a low deductible for windshields. The windshield on the Disco is tres expensive! I learned the hard way.

Kevin

dkstar0809 · March 2005

Thanks Kevin,

They're charging about 1500 for the 72month 100K warranty, but seems like one out of warranty, major repair could eat that up.

I'd already made a mental note to double check the windshield insurance, after seeing the heating grid in the front windshield.

-Ben

nanuq · March 2005

Niiiiiiiiiiiiiiice! I'd snap them up in a minute if it wasn't $121 EACH to get them here!

*sigh* It's calculating Alaska as a foreign country. As usual!

tidester · March 2005

... no buying and selling on the boards!

tidester, host

gpp · March 2005

I just got back from the former LR flagship driving school in West Virginia: in a word, incredible. I made sure to get the same model Disco I own and it was well worth it. The instructor spent as much time working with me on exploiting the features of the car (some of which I didn't even know about) as specific driving techniques. All I can say is that these cars are beasts; I drove a stocker and had no problems with serious rock crawling, nasty, slippery ascents, and some crazy application of Hill Descent Control: my new, hands down favorite features of the Disco.

Highly recommend the experience to Disco owners to get a chance to really understand how and why their car was built.

mnrover · March 2005

Anyone change out a radiator on Disco II? Is it a difficult job? Any tips? LR wants to charge me $700+ for the job. Figured I would try to save some money and do it myself. Any insight would be well appreciated. Or, can it be fixed? Epoxy perhaps?? The leak is on the bottome seam. Thanks!

calvinist · March 2005

I have a 2001 Disco LE and had to have all the valves replaced at 45,000 due to carbon build-up. It registered missfires in 2 cylenders and triggered the check engine light. Glad it was under warrenty

jtad1991 · April 2005

I have a 2000 Disco II SE and every time I start the ignition, the horn beeps once. It also does it if I just turn the key to Position II (without starting it). There aren't any failure codes or any indication that something is failing initial diagnostics.
What could be the cause of this?
Thanks

jtad1991 · April 2005

Any recommendation on extended warrrany companies?

Thanks

tidester · April 2005

You might be interested in this discussion: Extended Warranties

tidester, host

vandy2004 · April 2005

I have been running my 2004 Disco on mid-grade, 89 octane, unleaded. It runs great, so I don't know if the computer has ever retarded the timing for the lower octane.

I need to tow a horse trailer this summer. If I start filling up with premium, 93 octane, will the computer advance the timing automatically to give me more power or will I need to go to the dealer and have the computer reset? I assume that the 4.6 liter engine will advance the timing until it notices a knock and then adjust to the quality of fuel it is burning, but I may be wrong.

Tom H.

nanuq · April 2005

Any radiator shop should be able to fix it. You remove it, drain it, clean it, solder it, and put it back in. Piece of cake. I did it on a Honda Accord, having NO IDEA what I was doing, in my driveway, with a propane torch and stick of solder.

$700? Forget that!

nanuq · April 2005

Boy I dunno. For the Disco series I it would set back and then stay there. The new ones might not do that. Sorry! I can't answer this one. Can you make it "ping" under heavy load and cheap gas? Does it go away with good gas, then come back again with cheap gas? That might tell you that it adapts the timing forward AND backward. Again, I'm just guessing. I know the Series I took some time for the adaptive ECU changes to take place. It takes awhile to "learn" what you're doing. Maybe the short-term fuel changes won't give it time to learn and then relearn?

Sorry!

mnrover · April 2005

Thank you for the info - I will see what I can do. While I am at it, would anyone recommend changing the water pump as well? Tough job for the weekend mechanic?? Thought I might do the pump as well, the odometer just changed over to 60k. Thanks again everyone!

Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

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