Caravan/Voyager Heating/Cooling Problems

dixiepeep · June 2006

Minivan Plymouth Voyager blows hot air. How can I tell if the compressor is shot? I looked under hood but I know nothing about cars so I dont know what I am looking for. S.O.S. How do you tell if it is the compressor or something else? I can't afford to be ripped off.

thedogmobile · July 2006

bought the van used with no a/c belt, just put one in and its really noisy ONLY when a/c is turned on. compressor does not appear to be seized (belt wheel spins freely with no resistance). have not checked a/c coolant level yet though. any ideas what would cause loud noise?

aktroy · October 2006

I have an 02 Grand Caravan that has front and back climate controls. The blower only runs at the highest setting on both front and back. I checked fuses and could not find one blown. Any ideas???

vcheng · October 2006

Check the blower motor resistor packs. The front one is on the firewall, but I do not know where the rear one is for sure on your model. It is probably in the blower motor housing at the back.

beth38 · November 2006

I have a 2000 Plymouth Voyager and am told the Heater Resistor is bad. Where do I find this and is this something I can replace myself??

r_pierce · November 2006

I have a 2001 Voyager. The problem I am having is with the ac/heater. If you turn on the heater it blows cold air through the floor vents. And sometimes changing the temp control from cold to hot doesn't produce the expected results. Has anyone else had this sort of problem?

bariv · December 2006

Has anyone ever replaced the metal coolant lines that are the supply and return for the rear auxilary heater? I have a 2004 grand caravan and the metal lines have rusted out just rear of the front wheels. I have disconnected the hoses and removed the 2 mounting bolts but the lines aren't easily removed from behind the engine. Any suggestions?

brattygratty · January 2007

Last week the heater fan in my 1992 Caravan stopped working, and at the same time the airbag light came on. Then the airbag light went off and the fan started blowing again. After I shut off the van and started it up again, no air moving and airbag light on, and noticed that signal lights don't work either. 4 way flashers work so it's not my lights. Can someone please tell me if there is an electrical connection between the signal lights and heater fan? Sure hope someone can help me.

ahchi · February 2007

I have same problem with my Grand caravan 2005 SE, I noticed that my feet were getting progressively colder, even with the heat on high. pouring out of a vent on the floor, but next to it where the center console is, warm air is coming. It is impossible to drive when the temperature is lower than -10. I got dealers to check 5 times already. all they said is nothing wrong with it.
Could any one help?

ahchi · February 2007

have same problem with my Grand caravan 2005 SE, I noticed that my feet were getting progressively colder, even with the heat on high. pouring out of a vent on the floor, but next to it where the center console is, warm air is coming. It is impossible to drive when the temperature is lower than -10. I got dealers to check 5 times already. all they said is nothing wrong with it.
Could any one help?

07carshopper · March 2007

My 97 Dodge Caravan ES (USA) is not putting out the volume of cold air it once did. The air I do get is cold, but at one time it was a real frost-biting guster from the dash vents. Now it's just barely a whisper. Could it be that there are vacuum operated doors that are stuck in the mostly closed position? Any suggestions as to how to free them up? Or is it another problem? I live in southern Nevada and the summer 115° days are just around the corner.
We did use the heat a few days this winter, and it seemed to work fine. It's just the A/C that has the low volume. Thanks in advance.

cshaffer4 · November 2007

cshaffer4 · November 2007

I currently have a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan and 2 years ago the heat went out. I was told there was a problem with the a/c & heater module panel and that would need replaced. I did that and the heat worked fine. This year the heat does not work again and I purchased another module panel and this time it still doesn't work. Has anyone else had problems with the heater? Thanks. I am reluctant to take it to a dealership before I know what to have them look for. They usually end up getting you for numerous things and $2000 whether you needed it or not. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

drewlittle · November 2007

I have a 2000 Chrysler Voyager and a year ago I had the same problem. We replaced the hearter core and it seemed to work until last night. When you replaced the ac/heater module where did you ge tthe part? Junkie or Dealer?

debwoman · December 2007

debwoman · December 2007

Hi, everyone!

I was driving the other night when all of a sudden, I heard a loud noise from the passenger side under the hood. At the same time, the car seemed to lose power where it would not move more than 5 mph.

It was taken to a shop I am not familiar with (I just moved to the area) and the initial diagnosis is that the AC compressor was bad and was draining power from the car. Having said that, the guy says it will cost 932.00 to have it fixed and he doesn't know if that will fix the power problem.

First, the noise happened at the same time the power problem happened so how could it be two different things at one time? Also, is it even posssible for the AC compressor to cause this?

Any help would be appreciated.

keithmc · January 2008

Have them purge the lines, more than likely your compressor imploded and the pcs went through them. The dealer put 3 compressors in our 05 sxt before they realized what had happened and had to replace all of the lines.

gmike · January 2008

On my 1998 Voyager SE there is very little heat coming out of the floor vents, even on high, any suggestions for a fix would be appreciated.

lrt48 · January 2008

i have a 2003 voyager where is the resistor located and can i fix it and get the part

vapete · January 2008

Hi,

i have a 1999 plymouth voyager expresso. the problems is that the blower is intermitten and when it does run it is running at low speed. it also make noise like it is dragging. does it need to be replaced? if so where is it?

thanks

muggelberg · January 2008

I believe my heater core has plugged up or is in new of being replaced. I have a 2001 caravan with only the front heat. how hard is it to replace the heater core in this model??
Any help would be great...
Bill
.
.

shipo · January 2008

Hmmm, what brings you to the conclusion that your heater core is plugged? I ask because I haven't heard of this being a problem, and I've been tracking this and other minivan boards for a number of years now.

Best Regards,
Shipo

muggelberg · January 2008

My only reason for this is that I haven't seen any leaks and the vans not over heating(lack of coolent) The only thing it did do, is it threw a little heat for a second or too when I raced the engine a couple of times, but now there is nothing coming out but cold air.. I've let it idel for 30 mins and the coolent gauge shows that the van is plenty warm... just no heat what so ever soming out.. I'm was going to start with a rad and core flush(start cheap) and work towards the more $$$ things.. The local auto parts store has a core in stock, $90.00 and advised me that the dash would need to come out...yikes!!

Thanks for the reply also...
Bill
.

shipo · January 2008

I'd be inclined to suspect the blend door in the HVAC system before the heater core. I've never had to tear one of these apart and as such don't know what is involved, however, I have heard from some other folks that this task isn't too involved.

Best Regards,
Shipo

muggelberg · January 2008

Well, I've figured it out.... Last night before I went bed I put extra coolent in the reserve. This morning on the way to my buddys oil change shop to flush the Rad, the heat came back...Hummm that's odd I thought.. I was going to turn around and head home( figuring out that it was fixed) but I stopped by his shop... He and I began to flush the rad anyway, and what do I see??? coolent flowing from the bottom of the motor!!!!! The water pump did go bellyup.. and I had NO coolent in the engine(therefor no heat) So, it's in my other buddy shop to the tune of about $400 with parts and labor

... Thanks everyone for the input....

Bill.
.
.

pinmed · February 2008

I didn't see a reply to an inquiry like this one. someone out there have any suggestions. :confuse:

shipo · February 2008

This is a very common problem, all you need (typically) is a blower motor resistor ($17.69 from NAPA).

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=ECH&Par- - tNumber=BR266&Description=Blower+Motor+Resistor

Best Regards,
Shipo

gg1328 · May 2008

I purchased a 1998 Plymouth Voyager Expresso 3.3 engine last week. I also purchased the Hayes Repair manual. It states in order to put R-134 in, the compressor has to be running. If not, jump the LOW PRESSURE CYCLING SWITCH with a jumper. It does not show a picture of what it looks like, nor where it is located. Can any body please clue me in on the exact location and what it looks like? Thanks in advance.

nclake1 · May 2008

98 Caravan: Replaced serpentine belt at about 100,000. Belt squealed when A/C is turned on and intermittently at highway speeds with A/C on. Had belt tightened, temporary relief. Belt began to squeal again when A/C turned on and intermittently at highway speeds with A/C on. Did not squeal with A/C off.
Replaced belt. Temporary relief, but squealing began shortly again.
Have had this problem for 50,000 miles and mechanic does not seem to be able to figure it out.

Now the belt squeals when ever the A/C or the heater fan is turned on and squeals intermittently at highway speeds with either A/C or heater fan on.

I love my mini van, but I am afraid the belt will break in some desolate place or worse. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

shipo · May 2008

Had belt tightened, temporary relief. Ummm, these vans have a spring loaded "belt tensioner", so unless you had your mechanic replace the tensioner with a unit that has a higher tension, then there is no such a thing as "tightening" the belt.

Over the years I've read about many belt issues on these vans and squealing is almost always one (or more) of three different issues:

1) Cheap belt. I've personally had to deal with this one, I was too lazy to replace my own belt a couple of years ago and so when it was in for the annual state inspection, I had the shop put a new belt on. Needless to say, they bought the cheapest belt they could find. Damn thing squealed from Day 1. I finally got tired of the squealing and bought the best NAPA belt sold and put it on, squealing gone and has remained gone for the last 20,000 miles.

2) Oil, Power Steering Fluid, or Coolant contamination: As engines and accessories, age they tend to leak, fact of life. Check to see if there is any contamination on the belt surfaces.

3) Failing or failed A/C clutch or compressor. Of the two I'm thinking that the compressor is most likely. Do you hear any noise or racket emanating from the compressor when the A/C is working?

Best Regards,
Shipo

Edit: It just occured to me that you might have a 4-Cylinder engine or the Mitsubishi 3.0 liter V6, all of my comments were made assuming you have either a 3.3 or a 3.8 liter Chrysler engine. If you have either of the two smaller mills, disregard my comments.

nclake1 · May 2008

Thanks for your input. I should have been more definitive regarding engine.

The mini has the 3.0 engine.

Question: does this negate the "spring tensioner"/ belt tightening observation?

Thanks.

NClake1

shipo · May 2008

"Question: does this negate the "spring tensioner"/ belt tightening observation? "

Ummm, I don't actually know, even though I've worked on many-many Chrysler minivans, I've never even seen one with a 3.0 liter engine.

I'll ask around and if I come up with something, I'll post the results.

Best Regards,
Shipo

ccdlpd · May 2008

Hi,

I have the same problem with my van. Have located the switch? If so, how do you go about jumping it?

Thanks
scott

jwp1775 · June 2008

'97 GC Sport -- Runs perfectly unless the AC is on. Then I hear a growl that sounds like it is coming from the transmission. This more prominent from a standing start that at highway speeds. However, I can make it stop at any time by just turning off the compressor.

Any ideas?

shipo · June 2008

My bets:

1) The growl isn't coming from your transmission.
2) The growl is coming from your A/C compressor.

Keep us posted.

Best Regards,
Shipo

jwp1775 · June 2008

Thanks.

Seems logical. But then why does the growl not continue at highway speeds? The compressor is still engaged.... But I can't hear any growl.

It is also not audible at idle.

But upon acceleration, it is quite loud.

shipo · June 2008

Why not on the freeway? Probably because of too much wind noise, and/or the RPMs are too low.
Why not at idle? Probably because the RPMs are too low to cause the compressor to make the noise.

FWIW, compressors get noisy as they age. The compressor in our 1998 DGC is starting to get a little loud as well, and that is causing me to consider a prophylactic replacement before it grenades. FWIW, when compressors go, they usually send lots of shrapnel around the cooling system, and that stuff is a pain to evacuate, and if it isn't done properly, then the debris can cause replacement compressors to grenade as well.

jwp1775 · June 2008

Thanks.

driver101801 · July 2008

Shipo, I have a similar problem to the the GC's A/C and trans issue.

2000 Chevy Impala, 3.8L 200 hp motor, runs well. When the A/C is on and the car sits idle for more than 30 seconds or so, the transmission will jump the next time I accelerate from a dead stop. I try to keep an eye on the temp gauge while this is happening. Typical GM temp gauge, low 140, high 260, the needle always stays one tick below the middle. Recently, however, when I notice the problem, the needle climbs to the middle tick or slightly above. This is when the jump is most noticeable. I'll slightly tap the gas (I'm trying not to gun it) and the car will rev up, but not go anywhere. Then first gear will engage at the raised RPM, causing the car to lurch. If the A/C is off, this happens significantly less unless it's a very hot day.

I took it to a local mechanic who told me that the transmission was going bad and needed to be rebuilt, which on a FWD car is very expensive. He said something about the first gear not holding pressure and therefore not engaging properly. But I disagree with his analysis, seeing as it only happens when the engine runs hotter than normal. When the engine is cold, I can slam the gas pedal and it will take off without a hitch.

I considered taking the car to another mechanic and having them flush both the trans fluid and the coolant and see if that improves anything. But then I ran across your advice about the compressor sending shrapnel through the cooling system on this feed. When I turn on the A/C in the car, there's a slight clunk as the compressor kicks on, and then a whirring/buzzing noise when I rev the engine. Also the engine seems to work twice as hard. Do you think the compressor is going bad? Or does it sound like an old coolant/trans fluid problem? The car has 74,000 miles on it; neither fluids have been replaced while I've owned it (since 38k mi). I was under the impression that both flushes could wait till at least 100k mi. I don't want to spend any more money than I have to, and if the compressor is no good, a fluid flush won't help that situation. What do you recommend?

shipo · July 2008

Problems like this are hard to diagnose over the internet, however, it doesn't sound like your A/C system is the issue on your Impala. I'm more inclined to suspect your transmission and the ATF in it. I'm not so sure that I'd jump to the conclusion that your transmission needs to be rebuilt, but if it is acting up, a good first place to start is a simple pan drop, filter replacement and a top-off of fluid.

FWIW, transmission "flushes" can cause waaaay more problems than they solve, and I would NEVER allow any automatic transmission I own to be subjected to a flush.

Best Regards,
Shipo

steelcitybelle · July 2008

Stumbled across these car forums a few months ago and found them quite useful for a female who had a dad who worked with cars for a living, and refuses to have the "shop guys" stick it to her. However, I haven't been able to find a solution to an ongoing problem that I am having, and would love any assistance you can offer.

I have a 1998 Dodge Caravan, SE that overheats when stopped in traffic or running idle for any extended periods of time. I had it at the shop and they said they believe it is the computer. They said everything they tested worked, wires, relay I believe, but the fans would not kick on.

Also, I had previously fixed a 'flashing lights' issue I was having on my climate control, but that too has defaulted again to being a problem. The same solution no longer fixes it this time, and when I hold the two top and bottom, left most button to recalibrate the system (the solution that once worked), the top left one flashes once, and then the middle one seems to be counting out a code of 24569 and then repeats itself. We also have no heat in the winter, or AC in the summer. I'm also pretty sure the only vent the air blows out of is the defrost button on the dash. Any ideas on what this could be and how I can fix it without getting a new computer?

rgincanada · August 2008

Hi all,

I own a 1998 Caravan (aka "The Thunderwagon") with 310,000 kms on it, and it seems to have developed an appetite for coolant. I don't ever see fluid under the vehicle, but after a long drive there is an odor of coolant around the engine.

In the last month or so, the amount of coolant has risen significantly, and I am topping up with water almost every time I take it out. It seems like it only leaks when the thermostat is open?

If it was leaking into the crankcase at this rate there would be more water than oil there and this is not the case.

Any low $ suggestions? This is now an intermittently used second vehicle that sees less than 5000 km/year

The engine is on its third set of heads after repeated lifter failures.I'd like to nurse this vehicle through one more winter, and then send it to that great Autobahn in the sky.

shipo · August 2008

Which engine (3.0, 3.3, 3.8)?

rgincanada · August 2008

Thanks for the speedy response! It has the 3.0L engine.

shipo · August 2008

Ahhh, I figured as much given your comment about replacing the heads. Unfortunately I have no hands-on experience with that motor, hopefully someone else will chime in here.

Best Regards,
Shipo

rlmvillegas · August 2008

where can i locate the radiator fan relay on my 1999 plymouth voyager?

patti10 · August 2008

I have a 1998 Plymouth Voyager...3.3....Yesterday the fan wouldn't kick off....put a new sensor on it and the fan kicked off.....Today the temp went up on it and the fan will not kick on.....Anyone have any ideas?

bazzarh · December 2008

my blower motor would only work on high speed then 2days ago it stopped working after reading through the fourm i replaced the resistor but still have on fan help please it getting cold up here in canada oh sorry it is a 1997 dodge caravan 3.3 engine

thall10 · January 2009

thall10 · January 2009

Hi, I'm hoping someone can help me. I have a 98 Voyager. The fan motor started to make some noise a couple of months ago. Then it stopped. I would hit the dash above the radio and it would start working. Now it has stopped all together. Hitting the dash had always worked. The fan motor is quite aways away from where I would hit the dash, so I'm not sure that is the problem. The control head had been replaced probably 4 years ago or so. That little piece is not cheap! Any help would be appreciated.

Tom Hall

xwesx · January 2009

If it started making noise prior to failure, I would suspect it is the motor itself, but you would have to test the lines to verify that.

Caravan/Voyager Heating/Cooling Problems

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