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I have a 2.0L SE with the CVT. I do drive to maximize mileage (lots of coasting stops, gentle acceleration, etc.) except when I have to run with traffic for safety reasons. Now that summer's over I've gone up to an average of 28 mpg, with a range of 26-29. On the highway I usually pop at least 30 mpg and I've had 32-33 a few times.
I live in the South so there is really no need for me to have an AWD, and I passed on that option.
Just to note, the SE does not have a tachometer or trip computer standard. I'm not able to do the straight-2000-rpm trick although I do try to keep the "tone" of the engine as even as possible. I'm also calculating mileage manually. (I really wish I at least had the tach...anyone know if it can be done aftermarket?)
One thing I've noticed is that it's not very forgiving about weight in the back end. The one and only time I went below 30 on the highway involved me taking a bookcase between Atlanta and Raleigh. I ran about 27 the whole way up, but the first tank after the bookcase came out was the highest I've ever gotten - 33.9 mpg.
My D.C. (that's her name) is now just under 8K miles. The manufacture date inside the driver's door is June 2007 so I've not asked the dealer for the TSB.
Thanks everyone for your input. As of today, I have a new 2008 Caliber SXT with 2.0L and CVT on order. I will post updates after the car arrives. Doubtful I will get it before Christmas.
Other than pushing a button on a computer (which could make the car manufacturer look good ) most drivers have no clue on how to derive their true MPG.. Step #1 Go to a gasoline station, park the Caliber on the most level area of the pavement. #2 Turn off engine. (Leaving the engine run while re-fueling can screw up the on-board computers; it is against the Law; and most importantly can cause an explosion which can kill you, your passengers and other re-fuelers.) #3. Fill your gas tank until the nozzle's automatic shutoff stops the flow of fuel. (DO NOT squeeze a few more ounces or even drops into your tank. It's truth time, remember. ) #4. Assuming your Caliber has an accurate trip odometer, reset the trip odometer to 0000 and resume your normal driving routine. Drive the Caliber for several days or until the gas gauge reads half full. #5. If possible, go back to the same gas station and same fuel pump and repeat step #3. When the nozzle's automatic shutoff stops the fuel flow...immediately write down the Gallons Purchased number on a piece of paper. #6 Divide the trip odometer number by Gallons Purchased...that number is your Caliber's true MPG.
The WheelMan
Automatics have improved substantially and are a close second. Automatics, of course, are favored for stop and go city driving.
The WheelMan
"One thing I've noticed is that it's not very forgiving about weight in the back end. The one and only time I went below 30 on the highway involved me taking a bookcase between Atlanta and Raleigh. I ran about 27 the whole way up, but the first tank after the bookcase came out was the highest I've ever gotten - 33.9 mpg. "
It's more likely a fill variation between your two tanks of gas, than the book case (unless your hatch was open and it affected the aerodynamics).
I usually have pretty consistent mileage based on my commute, but if I use a different pump, or go to another gas station, or especially if I fill up on a slight angle, it can throw the mileage calculation off.
Over 18,000 miles of driving, I have averaged approximately 32 mpg on my stick shift Caliber. Pretty good, but I drive very smoothly and have a largely free-flowing freeway commute in a mild climate that seldom requires aircon and is never below freezing, a couple of common mileage killers.
The WheelMan
(catalytic converter to the tail pipe) exhaust system. #5 Inflate tires to "firmer" pressures. #6 Drive close to the speed limit.
Expanded: #1 Full Synthetic oils signicantly reduce friction. Less friction means your engine strains less to do the same work. #2 to #4 Each of these assemblies adds approximately 8-10 hp by allowing your engine to 'breathe" and "exhale" easier without adding any load to your engine. More horses to move the same weight (Caliber and passengers) easier #5. Inflate the tires to what the tire manufacturer recommends...not to what Dodge recommends. Most car manufacturers want you to travel in smooth comfort, so they recommend a 'softer' tire pressure. "Firmer" tire pressures deliver better MPG by providing less rolling resistance. IMPORTANT:DO NOT OVER INFLATE YOUR TIRES. HIGHLY OVER INFLATED TIRES REDUCE TREAD LIFE AND CAN LEAD TO DEADLY CONSEQUENCES.
#6 Speeds above 65 mph wastes fuel. Period.
Your Dodge dealer's Parts Department can get you prices for items 2,3,4 and their Service people can install these parts. These assemblies are genuine Mopar and are specifically engineered for your Caliber. NOTE:Performance parts/assemblies may affect your warranty so get all the info before you open your wallet.
If you plan to keep the Caliber until the wheels fall off the performance modifications might be a way to go.
Much of 2,3,4 is a digest from Pat Goss of Goss's Garage, MotorWeek on PBS
"Drive like your life depends on it."
The WheelMan
The first month of ownership(Oct. 2006) I averaged 31+MPG. As the weather got colder & lower energy winter mix gas was used, individual tanks dropped to 25 MPG, dragging overall average down to 28.4 MPG. During February & March, 2007, weather warmed & higher energy summer mix gas returned, & individual tanks averaged 33+MPG with highway highs of 35.6MPG. Slowly overall average rose till October 2007 when my YEARLY overall average topped out at 31.4 MPG for 50+ tanks of gas. My average going over 4000 foot mountain passes was 32.7+MPG.
My 2 previous cars were very reliable & averaged 42 & 45MPG. I bought the Caliber because I'd been waiting for a cheap reliable CVT for 16 years. Tho I got less MPG than my previous cars, I have feather footed the Caliber & the CVT returned as good MPG as I could have hoped for. Many people have had bad Caliber MPG. But my SE Caliber & feather footing have done a pretty good job.
Furthermore, my SE Caliber has been 100% mechanically reliable & NOT ONE creak, squeak or rattle has developed anywhere in the car. I'm happy!
The car has 36,500 miles on it. No big problems. Minor stuff like water leak around 3rd tail light, squeaking bushings in rear and door alignment(just after delivery).
No complaints. Car rides nice, handles well. Love it!
Synthetic oil is overrated. The minute amount you'll gain in mileage will be countered with the price of the stuff. At best, it's a complete wash.
DO NOT GO BY THE TIRE MANUFACTURER'S PSI. This is not smart. Fill them to "firmer" and you will wear them out faster. There is a reason to follow the car maker's recommendation and it's called safety. The vehicle was designed for tires to be filled to a certain PSI for handling, braking and ride.
I've been in the auto industry for fifteen years and you ALWAYS go by the "book" when it comes to tire PSIs.
fillup tank guage was still showing 1/4 left ( I know that's not
how to determine mpg/liters per 100 km).It took 40.922 liters
to auto shutoff,worked out doing the math that's 28.9 US or
8.151 L/100kms/34.65 mpg CAN.All under city driving conditions
with max speed of 90 km/hr.
I use Shell 87 exclusively Mopar oil and filter on my SXT 2.0/CVT
which is 3 yrs old and 39,000 kms on the odo.
I'm happy with the car.
:shades:
http://dodgeparts.mopar.com/dodge/caliber-accessories.html......
then click on lighting and electrical and click fuel saver device
Just bought a 2012 Avenger.
I am told that the Avenger has a different suspension so could explain things.
I liked the Caliber otherwise. The Caliber was very reliable as is the Avenger I have now.
when I run the numbers in Fully it only gets up to 20.5 never any higher....
Does anybody have a idea or two?? stumped...