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Comments
You can have a key made anywhere. There's an ILCO blank that works fine. If you need a "clicker" to remotely unlock the doors (was that available in '94?) look at Ebay... $20.
The radio reset code is identified by VIN, and the dealer can give you that.
I haven't heard of software to read the codes; the dealers have the Testbook (laptop styled machine) to do so. For my truck OBDII readers are available but you can't set parameters or reset the CEL unless you have a Testbook. As for your '94 ... I have no idea.
Congratulations! Check that gas cap.
Anyway, enjoying the truck like no other....
I think I've pretty much had it. The truck has been great to drive, but I just can't perpetually deal with these kinds of bills. I think the truck gonna have to go.
Had to replace the muffler on my 96, and decided to go all out and replace it with a Borla performance exhaust. What a difference. It feels like someone let go of the brakes. I have about 20-30 more HP and better torque too. Also got an extra 50 Miles out of a tank of gas. Sounds like a muscle car too. I did the work myself (almost) Turns out both studs on the catalytic converter Y pipe snapped off clean. Then I found out the old muffler can't be removed without cutting the pipe in half, and then it was a pain to get it of the hangers. But I was lucky enough to be in the military and working at an Auto Hobby Shop on base, so help was at hand. There were a couple other guys there and the shop assistant. And they all came over to help. One of them had a Pneumatic cutter, and cut the pipe. Then the shop guy came over with a couple of Vise Grips and a pneumatic hammer and some penetrating oil. We managed to get the studs out and replaced them with bolts. Then we put everything back together and when I started her up, I thought the guy next to me had started up his Mustang, til I stepped on the gas and was in heaven. The old muffler went into the scrap metal bin, but the most interesting thing was that I looked behind me as I was carrying it and noticed all the chunks of loose charcoal and honeycomb inside falling out. :surprise: No wonder it was sluggush. Now it's smooooth :shades: and a little loud, but unleashed. Anyone else ventured to the Dark side?
I'd say it will be fine and 100 miles to the dealer for the Big Checkout will be no problem, as long as it's charging and all the components are turning with the belts.
Good luck!
Regarding the Check Engine light. I read something on the Robison Service site where the statement is made that "disconnect the battery no longer clears fault codes on a '96 and newer rovers". My assumption from this is that disconnecting the battery on a 94 is an acceptable technique to reset fault codes. Anyone know if this is okay to do?
Oh, and nanuq, the diff lock worked fine, was not seized at all. I did the deep mud test you described. Hehe, what fun it was too...
This weekend I am going to replace the fluids, the serpantine belt looks a tad worn so I'll change that too. Can anyone think of anything else I should address? Some of the hoses are looking a tad old, any notorious ones I should check and replace?
First step, tighten the gas cap and then go for a 15 minute drive. Then stop and open the cap... it should go WHOOOOOOOooooooooooosssssssshhhhhhhhh and all the fumes come out (it will be pressurized). If not, there's your problem!
The sticking exhaust valves started around '96 and were covered by warranty. At least mine were......
More details please?
Does it matter what brand of fluids I use? Are all oils created equal?
Anyway, I thought the sticking exhaust valves thing was solved PDQ after it started appearing in '96 with the GEMS system. It's hugely expensive, a warranty item, and the factory would want to put an end to that pronto! It might be something else. The fault codes can mean any number of other things too. Does it run weak, like it's not firing on several cylinders? That's what mine would do, then it would kick in again and run fine. They also thought it was the mass air sensor. Are they POSITIVE it's sticking valves? I'd be highly suspect. Highly.
Lack of oil changes won't make the valves stick in the head. That happened because the head design and valve timing allowed unburnt fuel / carbon to accumulate on the exhaust stems, eventually sticking them in the guides.
Really REALLY chronic lack of oil changes will produce other tell tale signs. Open the filler on the valve cover and look down in there. Wipe a finger around and pull it out... is there grunge and black crud on your finger? That means not enough detergent has been thru there... the oil has been neglected.
Have another opinion made for the truck. I bet it's something else. There are also places to look on the web regarding obdII error codes for a Rover.
How does it run? What told you something was wrong? Did anyone do a compression / leakdown test?
Cheers!
To change the auto trans, just open the drain bolt and drain it. Then put the bolt back in and refill it. You need to check it, I believe idling in park, and replenish the fluid as necessary. DO NOT OVERFILL. If you want to really get a good swap on the fluid, do this three times over the course of a couple weeks. My truck has no drain in the torque converter so it takes awhile to circulate the new lube into the converter, and to mix the old/nasty with the new/clean. Then you change it again, and repeat. Eventually you'll get out probably at least 90% of the old fluid. I am not sure if the 2000 DII is like mine... caveat emptor.
Same with bleeding the brakes... put a clear tube over the bleed screw and then applying brake pressure, you crack open the screw and let the pedal drop to the floor. Then you close the screw before letting the pedal back up. If you put the downstream end of the clear tubing in the catch tank into which your old brake fluid is running, then you cannot suck air bubbles back into the caliper. Make sure to replenish the brake fluid as you do this so you don't let the fill tank go empty. You should see a color change to the fluid as the old stuff gets worked out of the lines and the new fluid arrives at the calipers (hence the clear tubing). Make sure you don't allow ANY air bubbles into the brake system, or you'll have spongy brakes.
Cheers!
Please provide a product/model type?
thanks,
matt
I see we share a delimma, I also recently purchased a :confuse: 2000 LR Disco II, and I enjoy my weekend jaunts, even with the cost of gas these days. However, I am interested in obtaining maximum gas mileage. To this cause I purchased a fuel optimizing device with hopes of stretching mileage. But thinking that locating the fuel line for application isn't as simple as I anticipated and my attempts to locate the fuel line are not successful. Short of consulting a mechanic any suggestions on where I can find text or diagrams or just plain assistance that would lead me to the incoming fuel line.
Any/all assistance is appreciated.
thanks,
matt
I have a 1996 Land Rover Discovery. Recently the radio was disconnected from the battery and the theft mode was activated. I have the special code to reactivate it, but apparently some extra buttons have to be pressed before or after the actual code is pressed. I know the answer is in the 1996 Discovery Manual, but we lost that. Anyone with answers?
Thanks,
Azyrea
Azyrea
Go to Schucks or Napa or wherever and GET THE CHEAP PADS. Those are the soft ones that wear out quick and save your rotors. I paid under $25 a pair for the last cheapies I bought.
1 - Loosen the lugs nuts
2 - Jack it up and use jack stands
3 - Remove the lug nuts, then the wheel
4 - Remove the cotter pins from the two pins holding the pads in place
5 - Slide out the long pins that hold the pads in place
6 - Use two long screwdrivers and gently but firmly press the pad/piston back into the caliper. Make sure you push the pad/pistons in on both sides. There will be lots of gap between the pads and the rotors when you're done.
7 - Pull out the old pads (pliers)
8 - Slide in the new pads (there should be enough room if you pushed the pistons far enough back into the calipers)
9 - Slide in the long pins to hold the brake pads
10 - Put on new cotter pins
11 - Put the wheel / lug nuts on firmly
12 - Drop the truck and torque the wheel lug nuts
Presto! 15 minutes work.
CAVEAT: Step #6 says to just push the old pads and pistons back into the calipers with screwdrivers. This does work but you can push cruddy old brake fluid back up the lines into the ABS pump. If your brake fluid is old, don't do it. What that means is, you have to crack open the brake bleed screw on the caliper as you push the pistons in, making a big mess. Then you close the bleed screw and you bleed the brakes. It's easy. That's how I do it but it's a little harder.
Seriosly, you can do a pair of brake pads in 30 minutes on a Disco. Replace the rotors when they wear thin... not before that.
Cheers!
I calculated approximately 19.25 miles to the gallon! I never thought this possible. Around town, I get 9 or 10. It is especially surprising as the EPA rating is 12/16.
My old Infiniti G35 was a gas hog too, getting 15 mpg around town, but 25 on the highway. So I guess the substantial increase was warranted.
If it was only 19 everyday!
I wouldn't think it would mean that much.
Thanks!
I wonder if you got the wrong drain plug back after the oil change?
There is indeed a copper washer that is supposed to be in between the drain plug and the oil pan. It's copper so it will compress and fill in any uneven or scratched surfaces and prevent leaks. It should be replaced every time you change your oil. I always buy my K&N oil filters from roverconnection.com and they include a new washer with each filter. I don't know about them replacing your pug with another. Most cars oil plugs are much smaller than your disco's. A point of trivia is that your drain plug is the same size as your lug nuts. or 1 1/8" Most other cars/trucks use a much smaller 9/16" oil plug. So if they replaced it, it was most likely a genuine one. Keep in mind that most times the plug does fall in the oil catcher pan, and they take it out and wipe it off with a rag. So it would look new, just because any road grime would be wiped off.
I have read the past 10 pages of this forum, and by all accounts you seem to be an expert on discos, which is why i am directing my question towards you.
I have never owned a LR product. I have always heard they are unreliable. It is hard to quantify this statement, and looking on message boards isn't exactly the answer because most people who comment are complaining so the results are skewed.
My wife is really wanting a LR. She has found one at a local dealer (not a certified LR dealer). It is a 1996 Discovery with 115k miles on it. The body is immaculate, no rust, dents, signs of repair. The inside is ok, with the exception of the leather being somewhat cracked and the plastic just below the gear shifter that is SUPPOSED to slide is stuck and the plastic broken. I test drove it and it performed quite nice with the exception of a "ticking" noise anytime the gas pedal is being engaged. Also the shifter for the 4 wheel drive hi/low is frozen.
The price on it is right, at $4,800 (sticker was 6,500 for whatever that is worth). The dealer (who also runs a mechanic shop) said he would fix the shifter (he reiterated what you've said about it being caused by non-usage) and would look at the ticking noise (i have no idea what it could be as unfortunately i am car repair illeterate). Of course, I would have my own mechanic look it over (i'd take it to a LR dealer, but the nearest one is about 150 miles away).
Is there anything I should look for or know about this model? Are they as unreliable as some would have me to believe? Are the repair bills ridiculously expensive? How many more miles should i expect it to last? Can you run 87 octane gasoline in it or is premium mandatory?
Any info would be most appreciated, thanks.
Jim
P.S. Although I directed this message to Nanuq, I'd be happy to listen to anyone who may have some info.
A friend in California (Mike Green) owns West Coast British. Last time I talked with him (a couple years ago) he had 650,000 miles on his '96 with one rebuild.
If you get a good one of these trucks, you're in for a treat. At 115k miles I think it's a good one. That's a lot of years of consistent use.
My wife ADORES this truck... she says it's the most solid, most fun thing she's ever driven, and that includes a bunch of sporty cars and Mercedes. It has excellent outward visibility and it's very maneuverable. It also sucks gas so try to limit running around town in it! About that... sure you can burn 87 octane but it will eventually retard the timing a bit for self preservation... that just reduces performance a bit. Every 3 or 4 tanks give it the good stuff and let that clean out any deposits.
Can you look up its history by VIN? The big thing to look for is sticking exhaust valves, tho that should happen within 30-40k miles. I bet it's been done.
Have the compression checked. Make sure there are no leaks in the head gaskets. Check the fluids and see if they look nasty or if they've been maintained. Take a look beneath it... are the swivel balls leaky? HAVE they been leaky? Is there any 90w in the balls or are they dry? Have the diffs been changed? You'll see marks where fasteners are frequently loosened and replaced.
The ticking could be a loose exhaust manifold / Y-pipe connection. Above the front diff there's a flange with 3 bolts and this can come loose. Same with the driver's side. Or it could be a cracked exhaust manifold, or a bad CV joint (see my comment about dry swivels) or the rear end of the aft driveshaft could be going bad at the Hookes joint... that's a screwy rubber/plastic piece that can break.
If you are serious about it, consider a trip to a Quicky Lube place and have the transfer case and auto trans fluids replaced. Diffs too. That will tell you a lot about their condition. Look for "milky" hypoid lube from the diffs... that means it's been waded with leaky axle seals.
Do the lifters tick? If they do then it's had long durations between oil changes... that says a lot too.
One nice thing, these trucks are EASY to work on. Get a set of tools and learn to change your own fluids and brake pads. You'll love doing it. It really is easy. Change all the fluids at least every year, engine oil every 3k miles.
At this age you're looking at replacing the alternator, power steering pump, perhaps the ABS pump, perhaps the rotors. These are each maybe $300 - $400 repairs. The ABS pump will be higher (or you can pull the ABS fuse and ignore it).
You can do any of these repairs yourself. A mechanic could do any of these jobs in under 2 hours... you're looking at parts plus maybe $200 labor.
My advice is to have your mechanic look it over closely. Check the history by VIN. Pull the OBDII codes and see how it's been running. If it all checks out, then take a chance on it... that's a good price and it has lots of life left in it.
Good luck!
Thanks for the rapid response. I am printing out the info and taking that with me to my mechanic so he can look for what you mentioned. I'll let you know how it turns out (hopefully it won't be sold before I commit).
Jim
Couple other things. Look underneath and take a good look at the mufflers and make sure they are in good condition. I hav a 96 also and aroung 109K miles on it. Everything works great. Had a couple bumps and grinds along the way, but everything is great now. Nanuq is right about the alternator. Just had mine replaced. Muffler, I replaced myself with a Borla. A bit pricier than an original, but it sounds really cool, has a bit more power, and increased my highway mileage. Also check the battery cables. Make sure they are in good condition. The plastic insulation tends to get brittle and crack with age, and then shorts out. Same with Spark plug wires. I just had to have my negative cable replaced. Some of the Disco 1's (Mine included) had a modifiation performed which replaced the 90W in the swivels with a heavy grease that never needs replacement, nor does it leak. Also there was a recent recall on the gas tanks. By the way Bob, Did you get yours replaced? After the mechanic fixed the diff lock, I would suggest shifting it once a month to lock, and back after a couple minutes, and shifting it into low at least once a quarter. This is if you don't off road all the time like Nanuq. I also recommend you replace the fuel filter about now too. It's not too hard to replace yourself, but you will need to remove the right rear wheel to do it. Best thing you can buy is the maintenance CD. It had ALL the information you will need as far as maintenance, repairs, parts, wiring, etc. I recommend using synthetic or synthetic blend oil, and if you don't off road all the time, 5000 miles is OK. Manufacturer says 7500. anything else you need to know we are all here to help each other (some of us anyway) I don't like the guys who do nothing but complain and whine. This forum is so we can share remedies as well as problems. Hope you get your truck. The 96's are really in demand.
Thanks for the additional info. As I mentioned earlier, my mechanic abilities are lacking. I looked online and found the manuals you referred to, I've always wanted to learn how to work on cars and this could be my opportunity. The only thing holding me back at this point is my trade-in. It is a small dealer so he doesen't really like to carry alot of inventory, but he told me i could sell it on his lot on consignment. I got her cleaned up and am taking it over there today. I really hope it works out, as reading this forum has me excited about it.
Thanks again,
Jim
Oh, and just to clarify, the vehicle will seldom if ever be offroad, my wife just likes the way they look (of course, i may have to test it out on occasion)
jim
You've got me all psyched up for tinkering with my truck. I just changed my transfer gear box oil. Put in a Valvoline synthetic. Think I'll change the plugs this weekend. I also desperately want to change the auto transmission fluid. I called Jake Kaplan's (local Rover dealer) - they quoted me $400 for a new filter and fluid - seems steep to me, but I understand that the filter change is complicated (the Hayne's manual doesn't even begin to explain the process - it just says "See Land Rover Dealer"). What if I leave the filter in there and just change the fluid every few months? Good enough, you think?
One more question - anybody know of a weblink that details where the grease fittings are on Series 1?
Dogcorleone, I have had my '98 (99000 miles) for 3 months now, and I'm loving it. Haven't taken her offroad yet - want to get the shocks replaced first - but will soon.
Thanks,
Josh
It's easy to change your swivels and diffs too... use your socket wrench for the diff plugs. Before you open up the swivels clean the plugs well so no dirt falls in the hole. Also turn the steering wheel hard over to the side you're working on so the toothed gear is not in the way of the new lube going in.
Good luck! Also try OME shocks... Old Man Emu.
It looks like it has the stock Dunlops, you can go a size taller for better ground clearance.
One piece of good news: the 4.0 engine saw the advent of the GEMS system and that's when the exhaust valves begun sticking. Your 3.9L will NOT have that problem... no way. Make sure it's a 3.9 if it's a late '95 (I'm thinking so because it has '96 wheels on it).
It looks like the passenger seat is reclined... is it broken? Are you SURE? That's expensive. And you'll love the leather on the interior... it's the absolute highest grade leather available worldwide, period. Two grades higher than Cadillac and that used on Jags and fine furniture.
It looks like it has new rear springs... there's good wheel well clearance. Front springs might be a little low.
Check the rear window electric lifts... do they work? Common problem with the ECU card behind the glove box failing a solder joint.
You will also be pleased to know that it probably has heated seats. If there's no switch to activate them, it's easy to put one in. I think all '95 and '96 came with the elements in place... to get heated seats you just put in a switch to turn them on.
Man that looks like a sweet Disco. I just showed my wife and now she wants to fly us down there, buy it, and drive it back up the Alcan to Alaska.
Here's a shot of my Disco up by Byron Glacier. Cheers!