Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
if the service rep really told you that the battery is too small and that is what is the problem you can go to that dealer and request them to let that service rep go.
If that really was the problem then your car would never start, right? How come it starts when you have the battery charged just a little bit if the battery was too small?
If the problem is not enough juice in the battery then the problem is that the alternator is not charging it enough. Obviously battery itself is not too small since the starting happens if it is charged enough.
You could have an alternator problem or voltage regulator problem, which usually now is built-in in the alternator itself.
Take your car to an Auto Zone or some other car part dealer. They will test your alternator for free and if they say anything at all about it that it may be questionable buy an alternator from them (they really deserve your business at that point), unless your car is still under warranty and the dealer should do it. In that case good people at car part store will understand if you take it back to the dealer as it is them who should pay for the repair. They also understand that there is a good chance that you come back next time when your car is not under warranty any more and you really buy a part from them.
Having your alternator tested at the dealer under warranty might not result a fix as if it is borderline they will say everything is ok. If you have a word from someone else saying there might be a problem with the alternator the dealer might even do the job right.
As bad as it sounds it really seems that warranty with U.S. auto makers don't mean anything any more unless something really breaks in your car that everybody can see. It seems they do everything they can to avoid repairs under warranty even when they know what the problem is and how to fix it. The thing they do not understand is that this way they drive their customers away never to return. Money is too tight to waste any more.
Arrie
:sick:
thanks
:shades:
Vic
It takes time but its worth it-
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/
According to the recall notice it involves a PCM reprogramming, and "possibly" replacement of the fuel pumps on some vehicles.
"FUEL PUMP MODULE AND/OR REPROGRAM PCM "
http://www-5.chrysler.com/universal/webselfservice/pdf/F44.pdf
This was on an 04 model. I recently traded on a new 07 limited and found out there is no light in the glove compartment. Maybe I wasn't the only one with this problem.
The recall fix does not solve the problem
I have a severely asthmatic baby and this is a life or death situation with her in the car. If the weather is too hot or too cold and I can't get the car to start I will have to call an ambulance...but I live in the middle of nowhere and that is why we bought a new car in the first place. The 20 minutes to 1/2 hour it takes to get an ambulance could be too long for her.
I am going to the dealer now that I see others have experienced the same thing and ask how to go about getting out of my lease and into a different Pacifica. I love my car...I am just scared of it at the moment. Has anything changed for some of the posts I read previously? Any new findings on how to fix this problem? It happens almost weekly, though with no apparant pattern and it never happens at the shop.
1) For $60, they should be doing a "load" test of the battery to see if it has enough "reserve" to start after the power items are used (such as tailgate, etc.). See what the results were. :confuse:
2) Have them check for corrosion on the terminals or loose connections between the battery and the starting system. This could explain the inconsistent starting.
3) Have them put an ammeter across the connections to see if there is a short that is slowly draining the battery.
3) For $75, go to Walmart and by a new one. I just did yesterday after I experienced a similar problem with a Japanese brand. Seems the slightest drain on the battery when the engine was off prevented it from kicking over.
:shades:
Thanks
We are having the same problem. Pac doesn't start. Usually it will start like 15 minutes later. When you turn the key it is totally dead, no lights, no turn over of the engine, it acts like a totally dead battery. :sick: Then 15 minutes later it will start. Have you had a fix yet? We had a stalling problem and we think that is fixed. Would appreciate a reply. Thanks.
The car was fine for another year and it started happening again, but this time the ground wire was not the issue as it's connected fine. So, I'm back to square one. The one thing that does seem to help is putting the car in neutral and letting it roll a second and then it starts right up which makes me think there may be something wrong with the shifter wiring.
I love the car, but this is really annoying and the dealer has been no help as usual.
The service shop had the same stall problem once but now all is fine and they can;t find a problem.
Has anyone else had problems with an 07 stalling?
We took it in numerous times and had no luck because the dealer couldn't replicate the problem on the computer, so hence they told us we had no problem. Finally the car went dead and couldn't be revived and went back to the dealer by flatbed. Oh, my goodness you do have a problem, they exclaimed , your car is dead on arrival, no heart beat whatsoever. Yes, we agree, can you please fix it. :sick:
The fix was simple, they replaced our battery cables, apparently they were corroded. The car has been fine ever since. Don't you think they would thunk that would be the problem from the get go? :confuse:
I happen to have the same issue than the one state by tna_stranded with my 2004 PAC. Sometimes when I start, It won't crank and I hear clicks, with lights flickering in time with the clicks.
From what I have read, it seems that it is useless to change the starter. However I saw two recurring solutions that "partially" seemed to solve the problem or at least to help: 1- change the battery (but sometimes it is useless), 2- change the battery cables (when they are corroded). I bought my PAC just 2 weeks ago and I am very disappointed because of the starting problem. I will put in a new battery first and change the cables and will keep you posted.
If any of you has info, thank you for your help.
M.E.
It could also be a sensor not sensing that the car is in park.
good luck.
I've got a 2004 PAC, RWD. Sometimes when you try to crank it, it will give one good solid 1/2 "crank" sound, but nothing else. It sounds like it gets 1/2 way through it's crank and gets jammed/suddenly stops trying. There's no additional sound, just a sudden silence. Sometimes it takes 3-7 turns to get past the single crank and get it to actually start the car. Sometimes, it cranks right up on the first hit.
They've done a drain test on the electrical system, it's well within tolerances (just the little bit needed for things like the remote doors, etc).
- I replaced the battery. No change.
- They replaced the starter (twice). It got more frequent.
- They replaced some computer module known to flake out.
No change.
- They replaced the ignition switch. No change.
When it chooses to start, it acts as though nothing was ever wrong. There's no stalling when running.
It never acts like a loose wire (where sometimes you turn the key and get zero sound, other times it's fine). Every time it doesn't start it still gives one good solid crank sound, but dead silence follows.
The dealer (same one) installed a remote start kit for us 9 months ago, but we've experience no problems starting until this month. I don't think it's related, but mention it just in case.
If anyone has ANY ideas, please please help. I'm afraid I may have a very expensive metal brick on my hands.
Zig
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I just wanted to update you guys regarding my starting problems that may be different from yours. Here were the symptoms:
1- Sometimes it would start perfectly (after a 25 miles trip usually)
2- Sometimes it would start but not very easily
3- Sometimes it wouldn't start at all. But I always heard clicks, and lights blinking in time with the clicks. I have never had a dead silence for instance.
In the last 3 days I haven't had a single starting problem and I am not sure how long this will last. I think the problem may be solved, but I am not sure at this point.
The problem was the battery: 1 cell was bad. I changed it at Walmart, they checked the cables (for $2), the charging system and installed the new battery for free. The final cost was $60. Also note that when you go there, they will not be able to give a diagnostic. Basically, you have to know what you want.
The best of luck to all of you.
M.E.
1- What if you put it neutral position
2- I had once that look like yours (but this was not just half a crank, two or 3)It cost me over a 1500 to solve, while the piece was only $20. I had changed a lot of stuff (starter, batteries and so on...). It was a sensor that was supposed to see the position of the pistons to send the gas to the correct chambers so that the ignition can happen. This sensor was dead and I had this kind of problem you mentioned. It took 2 months to figure it out.
3- There are two connectors (on the PAC) to the starter. I heard that sometimes the small one doesn't fit properly or isn't plugged all the way in. Now you may have some kind of situation that the vibration (after the crank) may cause it to move and short. By the way, if the connector to the starter is not plugged all the way in, then you end up with a dead silence.
The most disturbing part in you problem is the 1/2 crank all the times. I would tend to think you have an electric issue, but it may also be a mechanic issue (jamming or something like that)
Good luck.
M.E.
Started driving it over same route, same time every day to/from work. It became apparent after a week that at 7-10 miles and/or 12-18 minutes it would turn off, reliably. Took it to a small shop, told them that is would stop at 7-10 miles. They said they'd hook up diagnositc equipment and go for a ride. It looked like the Delorean from Back-To-The-Future with all the gages. It stopped, they captured a code for a bad crank sensor. $100 for the Sensor, $100 for install. No problems since.
Do your homework, tell the shops what to fix.
Joel
It may be that your next service visit is past due. That's the problem I have when I have to service my car. After a while the bell will ring to remind me. If this is not it, then check your console to see if your malfunction light doesn't come up.
Hope it helps.
M.E.
to you i have and idea no lights come in the console. thanks.
Keep us up to date. Thanx
M.E.
And you thing happens when? Is there any relation to you gas level in the tank? On an totally different model I had the same issue when the gas tank was below half. There was a pump in the tank that was not working properly. Sometimes it did and everything was OK, and sometimes it didn't and the car was stalling...
Good luck.
M.E.
On first turn of the key, it seemed as though everything was fine. I actaully thought that it had started and went to put the vehicle in reverse. It was at that point I discovered the vehicle had in fact stalled. Second turn of the key and same problem. Third turn of the key, I tried to save it by pressing the gas and to no avail.
During the first two turns of the key, the engine would rev to 3,000rpm and then slowly decline to stall. During the third turn of the key, the engine only rev'd to about 1,500rpm and then stalled.
During all three turns of the key, the engine sounded as though it wanted to start (starter turned over).
Now when I try, there is no attempt to by the engine or starter to start.
I left it over night and tried it this morning.....still nothing at all. No attempt by the starter or engine.
The radio and gauges still work.
I know that people have had similar problems (faulty battery cables, bad grounds, etc) but any ideas from the techies out there?
I have a call into the dealership last night and followed up with another this morning but haven't heard back from them.
PLEASE HELP as my wife was extremely excited to get this vehicle home and now I've had to rent a Hyundai :mad: to haul our two kids around until we can get our "new" vehicle to start!!! :sick:
So far, we have had it in the shop 14 times and a total of 43 days. :lemon:
The main problem right now is it doesnt start after it goes through the car wash, It has to sit hours before it will start. The major problem is when you are driving through a parking lot or up a hill It falls out of gear then stutters back into gear.
This is just the topping of the cake. We have had a ton of problems so far and parts replaced. How do I get help with these problems, dealership says its normal and there is nothing wrong. They refuse to call the district area rep. and the 1-800 number is a total joke. Any help would be great!
I wish they would just fix everyone's Pac with all these problems. :sick: