Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Oldsmobile Alero Starting-Stalling Problems

13567…10

Comments

  • nbeltnbelt Member Posts: 13
    I have a 2000 Alero with a 3.4 V6 but i only get about 12 mpg!?! The security light comes on almost every day. Ive changed the plugs, wires, and fuel filter with OE replacement parts and tried some recommended fuel injector cleaner and still it gets crap gas mileage. Ive also had the mechanic scan it but got nothing. The dealer says without the engine light they probably wont find anything. Im ready to smash it. PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!
  • uabusiuabusi Member Posts: 1
    My car:
    2000 Oldsmobile Alero V6 cyl 3.4L Two Wheel Drive Automatic 140K miles

    Today when I drove on the free way at about 75mph, engine rpm was about 2200rpm. the engine suddenly shut off, at first the engine rpm shaken between 1000-1500 rpm for 1-2 seconds, then shut down to zero.

    It happened last Dec. when I drove on the free way, exactly the same way. but after I tried to start several time, about 20 minutes later, it can run and and I drove it well while nothing wrong with it until today.

    Today, I tried to start again, it seemed that the ignition worked and engine run to 200-500 rpm, shaken and dropped to zero again. I tried several time. the engine still won't work. I asked AAA to tow it to a local shop, at the first shop( it is a junkyard), one person tried to start( about 1.5 hour later), won't work, he asked me to tow to their another shop. 20 minutes later, we reach another shop. this time the car can start!!(about 2 hours away from the time the engine shut down), amazing!. After diagnosed the car, the mechanics can't tell me the exact problem and his suggestion was to change a crankshaft position sensor.(He though maybe the sensor was over heated and shut down the engine. but after it cooled down, it will not affect the engine). Since I am in a hurry, I declined and paid him the diagnose fee. And drove all the way down home ( another 150 miles), Now it runs like nothing happen.

    Btw. the mechanics has read 4 codes from engine which were: 1106,1189,1404 and0420. I knew that 1404 and 0420 were always there, and even 0420 was there for more than one year ( the engine light was on for about 1 year), The men tell me that 1106 and 1189 had also nothing to do with the engine shut down.

    any idea? thanks
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    The first place I would look is the fuel pump based on your description of the problem.
  • kck3888kck3888 Member Posts: 5
    I previous owned a 86' Cutlass Ciera S Coupe :shades: till 01' then I bough this 03 Alero right b4 they went out of business. Used to love it, but now, I hate it so much~~~! :mad:
    Like everybody else, the car will not start when the temperature is hot, put in new spark plugs, new coil, new fuel filter, no goal.

    I notice that if I disconnect the battery cable, and put it back, I can start it right up.
    Not sure if it is the PCM computer, or the something else.

    I had an after market alarm system, when the car won't start, I could hear the horn chirped and doors unlocked. I thought it must be the alarm, I pulled the fuse to disable the alarm, but still getting the same problem.

    Do you guys think that it is the alarm, or it is something else?
  • joyce6joyce6 Member Posts: 7
    i have a 2003 alero and it started doing this , come to find out there is a recall on our car, it has something to do with the computer modular reprograming , am taking to dealership in the morning to have it done, wish me luck.
  • mudster66mudster66 Member Posts: 8
    Wow! I would be very interested to learn how that works out for you. I too have a 2003 Alero that has had starting issues recently. I have been amazed in reading all these posts how common this problem is and I felt I needed to contribute my experiences as well. My problem appears to be the sort where it does not start in the afternoon after sitting in the sun. Not that hot in Illinois yet (Maybe 50 degrees) but the sun beating down on it seems to do it. It starts fine in the morning and evenings or when it's cloudy, cool and/or raining. Yesterday I walked out of work at 4:15pm and it took until 5:05pm to get the thing started. Same thing happened last week...same scenario/conditions. Somebody at work came over and suggested the "ACC & wait 15 minutes" trick which was the first I'd heard of that prior to reading all the accounts of it in these threads. My Security light never went out and it had been over 15 min. I tried to start it but no luck. I repeated the process, this time waiting about 20 min, and the light never went out but the car started. Runs fine once started although I was having stall issues in the winter after the car had been running awhile.

    With the stalling I suspected some kind of sensor issue where it was getting too warm and killed the engine to prevent overheating. It does seem to be related to the heater/blower some how though. Whenever it seemed like it was going to stall, I'd kill the heater and it would run fine. I tested it by pulling over and parking and let the car idle. It was just fine but withing seconds of turning the heater back on full the car stalled out.

    Firestone had recommended having the computer reflashed but when I took it to the local dealer (a Chevy dealer) they didn't seem convinced that would do it...and of course not...they can make so much more money off me by telling me it's this, that and the other thing!! I'm really leaning towards a reflash of the computer unit now. VERY FRUSTRATING as I know you can all relate!!
  • joyce6joyce6 Member Posts: 7
    i had the recall done and so far working, havent had any trouble with starting in the heat though we live in nc and it get's hot.

    i think the pass lock system is in the manual if you have it, but remember the 10-15 minute rule if needed,
    also, take car to dealer, or better yet, look up car in oldsmobile.com and check your vin # and see if u have a recall, no cost to you, good luck,
  • mudster66mudster66 Member Posts: 8
    Glad to hear your Alero is running again. I sincerely hope you've seen the last of this problem. As for myself, I'm still having issues. I left work yesterday at 4:30 being almost certain that my car would not start...which it didn't. I felt confident I could get it going though thanks to all the great tips from the other Alero owners that posted on this site (Thank you ALL!). I did the lock/unlock thing using the remote entry as I walked out to my car. I then turned the key to "ON", put the car in neutral, waited a few seconds and then tried to start it. NOPE!! I tried a couple other things but the battery died quite quickly...I'm assuming due to all the failed start attempts over the last couple weeks. While I was waiting for the tow truck I tried turning the key to "ON" (not "ACC") and left it. After several minutes the security light, which had been on solid (not flashing), went out. I suspected it would start with a jump start. When the AAA guy showed up it, sure enough, fired right up! So, just after 6pm, I was on my way home. At least traffic cooperated and I was home in about an hour. I went out to Wal-Mart and picked up a portable jump start battery for $70. It also has a DC outlet for a cell phone car charger (because my cell phone battery almost died on me too) as well as an air compressor. At least I'm set if (and when) this happens again.

    The interesting thing (okay, more "frustrating" than "interesting" maybe) is that I took it back to the dealer this morning to inquire about the recall. He brought up the recall list and I had actually had this done already back in May of 2004!! The car had 26,500 miles at that time (has 116,000+ miles now) and the Labor Operation is listed as "Y0002 - POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE - REPROGRAM". Looking back through my records I found that I first had the problem with the no-start issue about 2 yrs after that (in April 2006). At that time I had the Fuel Pump and fuel filter replaced. Total bill that time was over $900. Now here we are almost exactly another 2 years later and I'm having same issue. Hmmm... I asked the dealer to verify that the PCM has the most current version of software on it and, if so, told him to then park my car in the sun all day (supposed to hit 70 here today I think...wooo hooo) and around 4pm try to start it hoping they can re-create the no-start condition and then put a scanner on it to get a diagnostic code (or codes). Failing that (or depending what the diagnostic calls for) I believe my next step is straight back to Car Max to trade it in and get something new(er). I'm thinking Honda or Toyota. Possibly a Saturn because I'd like to stay with American-made and I've heard good things about them but I definitely purchased my last Oldsmobile. It's sad because, aside from this issue, it has been a very good car for me...and it was paid off last December...Ugh!!

    Jeff (Bolingbrook, IL).
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    "I tried a couple other things but the battery died quite quickly"
    Are you sure your battery is not weak? It shouldn't go down "quite quickly". A weak battery in todays cars with dozens of processors can manifest itself in many ways. Even if you had starting problems before it sounds like your commute is more than adequate to charge up a low battery that is otherwise in good condition, so barring a charging system problem then your battery shouldn't be weak.
  • mudster66mudster66 Member Posts: 8
    I'm certainly not ruling out a possible bad battery and/or charging system and yes, my commute (which usually runs anywhere between 1 and 1.5 hrs each way) should be sufficient to charge the battery. Would that lend itself to the no-start issue though? It certainly sounded like a healthy battery Monday night when I was trying to get it started and it also started with no problem this morning when I drove it to the dealer. Back in January I was having trouble with the stalling issue. I was in bumper-to-bumper traffic doing the old switch between neutral and drive, braking with the left foot and gas with the right. It stalled on me a few times and on the third time there was not enough juice left to turn it over (not fun). When the officer showed up he was nice enough to push me out of traffic with his squad car while I waited for my wife to show up and jump start me. I was thinking at that time I would need a new battery but when my car was in being serviced I was told the battery and alternator checked out fine.

    To add to this whole scenario now, I just got a call back from the dealership. They were able to re-create the no-start scenario but it didn't log any codes when they hooked it up to the scanner. Then the battery died on them too while they were testing it out. They put a charger on it and it started right up. So maybe it is something with the electrical?? I'm about ready to punt at this point. There were a couple things he told me they could check for relatively easily, one being the ignition switch and the other I was some connector under the hood but I can't remember what he called it. If those checks reveal nothing I am unloading this car as soon as possible. This has just been insane!!
  • kck3888kck3888 Member Posts: 5
    My DAMN car is the same thing, won't start in the afternoon, but in the morning or evening.

    The PCM box is what I suspected went bad.
    It is under neat the passenger side glove box right next to the heater duct vent.

    What a great idea to put your computer box next to the heater (it could be AC during summer time) vent?~!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Next time if your car won't start, try disconnect the negative cable for 10 seconds and put it back, for me it starts right up.

    Let me know, since GM won't help us, I guess we have to help each other who bough :lemon:
  • joyce6joyce6 Member Posts: 7
    we havent had any nore trouble with out 2003 alero after we had that recall done, wih us luck, have u checked the recakk on the aleros.
  • cleangrylcleangryl Member Posts: 4
    Hello viewers, I have a suggestion to all Oldsmobile Alero Owners. Please call Oldsmobile complaining about the issue. Tell them to create a ticket number for you before you tell them about the issue so there is a record of your complaints(keep up with these numbers). Next, tell them the problem. Be very aggressive about how you had to pay for the repairs and the problem still exist. Tell them this should be a recall which they disagree with, tell them you know it is not a bullentin issue since no owners are ever given a ticket number when they call, and stress to them that you know other oweners of the alero that has the same issue and is told the same thing when they call oldsmobile and does not receive a ticket number.
  • kck3888kck3888 Member Posts: 5
    I've got that OBDII recalled done on 2004.

    I just found an eBay Powerseller with 100% positive feedback that sells PCM for our Aleros on eBay for around $80-100 dollars.
    He will also use the same program GM used to reprogram/flush the PCM before he mails it to us.
    Ebay ID: spareecm

    I will look through my repair manual (yes, I bought that from Autozone) tonight and see if I can handle the PCM swap, if it is not that hard to do, I will buy from this eBay seller and put it in to see what happens.

    At the mean time, has anyone tries to discount the negative battery cable and connect it back to see if their cars can start backup?
  • kck3888kck3888 Member Posts: 5
    What is the phone# that we can call? :confuse:
  • mudster66mudster66 Member Posts: 8
    This is a great suggestion. I am, however, somewhat skeptical as to the effectiveness of this approach being that Oldsmobile is no longer in business. I have managed to come up with a couple ways around this problem though but I need to decide which route to take. Do I go with a Honda Civic or a Mazda 3 ? Hmm...decisions, decisions. :confuse:
  • mudster66mudster66 Member Posts: 8
    I would love to know how this works out for you! Please keep us posted because I am almost positive that my problem is also related to the PCM module. If you're able to do the swap yourself then I will probably attempt this approach also.

    My car is actually back at the Chevy Dealer this week. They are charging me for only 1 hour of labor no matter how long it takes them to diagnose the problem. This is day #2. A couple interesting side notes also:

    1) I had this problem last Sunday again when it was sunny and warm. Saturday was cloudy and cool and it started like a champ several time throughout the day. On Sunday, I was able to get the car started (on 2 different occasions) by first putting it in Neutral. That was one of the suggestions I got from this forum.

    2) I brought the car to work on Monday and Tuesday (being a little more confident now that I have a portable jump starter in the trunk). I also did not lock my doors either day and it started both days. I was secretly hoping the car would get stolen but it actually starting for me was a nice consolation I guess. Tuesday was a typical sunny warm day where I expected it not to start. However, it did stall out on me once on the way home. Luckily I was able to get it going right away...from neutral...and it didn't happen again.

    As for the battery cable, that was going to be my next thing to try if I couldn't get the car started because when I think back to a couple weeks ago when my car wouldn't start...I killed my battery in my attempts to start the car and then it started right up with a jump start. This was also the case at the dealership. I'm guessing that killing or disconnecting the battery actually resets something in one of those modules that is keeping the car from starting.

    Good luck with the PCM swap!!
  • snooflesnoofle Member Posts: 1
    I have had problems for over a year with starting my Alero & have had it towed numerous times, only to be told later that it started fine for the mechanic.

    I have finally solved the mystery & you will be amazed at how simple (and inexpensive!) the solution turns out to be.

    Simply detach your car key from all other keys. That's it! For some reason, having additional keys attached somehow interferes with ignition.

    This also explains why the damn car would always start for the mechanics--I only left them the single key! (I'd begun to think that the towing process somehow fixed the problem...)

    So, give it a try! I sincerely hope that this trick works for all you Alero owners out there--

    Michael
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    GM has had a TSB out for some time about too much weight on the ignition switch due to a lot of junk hanging on the keyring. It causes the switch contacts to wear abnormally.
  • kck3888kck3888 Member Posts: 5
    I will try that tonight.
    I am still hesitate to replace the PCM box, even though it is not that hard to replace, but I am not sure if it is the answer.

    Everyone has the same symptom, but different causes.

    GM is more looking like Ford now, Fix Or Repair Daily.
  • mudster66mudster66 Member Posts: 8
    I've read that in some the other posts here as well where take all the other "crap" off your key ring. That may be part of the issue but a couple weeks ago, when I last had this problem, I only my car key and the remote lock/unlock thing-a-ma-dooey (what are they actually called again? I forget). Anyway, my car was back at the Chevy dealer Wed-Fri of last week. They charged me 1 hour of labor to diagnose the issue. On Thursday they had decided that the ignition switch needed to be replaced. Of course, they decided this too late to actually get it done on Thursday so I had to leave my wife without a car for one more day. I picked it up last Friday and so far ($500 later) I have not had the issue. However, we have not really had a very warm day here in the Chicago area since then so it really hasn't sat in the sun at all. That will be the true test and I'm still skeptical as to whether the new ignition switch was really the answer. I have my fingers crossed. I agree with you on the "FORD" thing though!!
  • joyce6joyce6 Member Posts: 7
    we live in the south , north carolina and after we had the recall installed we havent had anymore problems, does your car need the recall?
    i dont have that many keys on my keyring maybe 3 or 4, so i dont think that would be my problem, good luck.
  • lund3lund3 Member Posts: 1
    My '99 Alero wouldn't start last night and the security light was on. I knew of the problem but I have actually never experienced it myself but now I'm worried it will do it again and next time I'll be late for something because of that.
    I want to bypass the system but I cannot figure out how. Is there a fuse for it, or is it not that simple? Please let me know if you have figured out how to bypass the system with out taking you car to a dealership. All I see is people talking about how to leave the key in and yes, it worked for me last night, but it took a while and I would rather just bypass the system if possible.
  • lalania1970lalania1970 Member Posts: 1
    :sick: By reading all these I can relate but my vehicle is an Oldsmobile Achieva. It starts and within 5 sec it dies. My automatic lights dont work, and not even my security light come on. But when I turn the light,radio, blinkers, windshield wipers on they all work. My car has been parked for almost 2 weeks now because I cant afford the 500 + mechanic bill, the Olds dealer here said I need a new ignition because the security system is in the ignition and this year and model didn't come with a remote entry. Does anyone know how to bypass this besides with the T-harness as I cant seem to find a part store that sells them. I would think there would just be a certain wire that I could disconnect. If anyone has any ideas let me know. I have tried keeping the key in so so many times and didn't work. Does it make a difference in reprogramming either you take off the positive cable or negative cable? As I have tried taking off the positive and it started once (even though it was still in safety lock out), but now I cant get it to do it again. THANKS
  • jtchristiankjtchristiank Member Posts: 4
    I got this fix from a Grand Am post, but I'll explain it here.
    Same problems...intermittently, the car just won't start. I went through the 10 minute waiting period several times until I just got fed up. I've owned a 2003 Alero since August of 2007. This "malfunction" occured the first time March, 2008. Since then, it has happened 5 times. I love the car, but the security is a major flaw.
    I'll update if this fix does not work.
    Remove the radio/AC/heater covers. Pop them off with a screwdriver. Remove the radio. You shouldn't have to disconnect anything. Behind the radio and to the left are three thin wires wrapped together: black, white, and yellow. Turn the car on, cut the YELLOW wire, and turn the car off. I taped the ends of the yellow wire out of habit, mostly. This took about 10 minutes, including time to get over the fear of tearing up the faceplate of the AC/Heater. We'll see...
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    You can bypass the hall effect sensor on the ignition switch that way, but remember that if your battery goes dead, or is disconnected for any reason, you'll have to remove the covers and the radio again, connect the two wire ends back together, and then start the car. Once it's started again you can disconnect the wires again. That's why a lot of people put a small toggle switch somewhere hidden and connect the wire ends to it. You can simply close the toggle switch if needed instead of taking it all apart again.
  • jtchristiankjtchristiank Member Posts: 4
    At 40 years old, you'd think I would know if something sounds too good to be true it probably is. Thanks for the info. What is this "hall effect sensor", and why have to reconnect if the battery is disconnected?
    Thanks again,
    Chris
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Once you cut the wire with the engine running you deactivated the security system (the "security" indicator in the cluster should have come on). It will remain that way until power is interuppted to the BCM (body control module) by disconnecting the battery, having a dead battery ("dead" meaning a low enough voltage for the BCM to be "off") or disconnecting a harness connector that supplies power to the BCM.
    The hall effect sensor is nothing more than a magnetic sensor on the ignition switch that operates a set of contacts when you put the key in and start the car. If you try to start it without the key, the switch remains open and the BCM disables the fuel injectors so it won't run.
    It's actually more complicated than this. There's an excellent write up on the web about how it works and how you can fix it yourself, but the URL escapes me right now.
    I'm on my third Grand Am, and out of the three I've only had the problem once, and when I did I didn't have the time to fuss with it myself so I just had it fixed at the dealer ($375). I used to have an excellent Pontiac/GMC dealer close to me, but now they have changed hands and I'm not sure it's the same.
  • damijedamije Member Posts: 2
    I own a 2001 I was having the same issue with the car not starting. I luckly have a good friend who owns his own repair shop. The trick is to turn you key to accessories and sit and wait until the security light starts to flash should take about 5-15 minutes. it can be a real pain but at least the car will start. I have also had the recall on the signal lights takin care of and a new ingnition switch since the switch was installed I have not had any problem with the security sytem it been about a year. (knock on wood) Do not know if they are related. If anybody has success with this please let me know
  • damijedamije Member Posts: 2
    It is the security system. When this happens turn your key to accesssories and wait for the security light to start flashing. about 5-10 minutes. The car will start right up. I had the same problem for a while but luckly know a mechanic and he advised me to do this and it worked every time, fortunately I have not happen in over a year, The only other work i had done was a new ignition switch, do not know if that had anything to do with it.....let me know if it works it cost anything but time.
  • dostroskydostrosky Member Posts: 3
    Do you remember the Web site that would help me fix this. My daughters 2004 Alero ran fine until today. You turn the key on and nothing. I can jump the purple and red wires under the hood and the engine turns over but will not start I assume because of the fuel injectors being disabled. Please help.

    Thanks
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    "You turn the key on and nothing". Do you mean the engine doesn't even spin? Is the security light coming on when you try to start it? When passlock is tripped the engine will still spin when you turn the key to the start position, but won't start (it may run very briefly). Also, the security light will flash on and off. If it's different than this, then you might have a different problem.
  • dostroskydostrosky Member Posts: 3
    Yes, I turn the key and nothing happens. If I try to hot wire wire the motor will spin but will not start. It just spins and spins like it is not getting any gas. It is almost like the ignition has been disbled and the fuel injectors are not working. I am starting to get concerned that it is not the ignition. Please help.
  • dostroskydostrosky Member Posts: 3
    Yes, I turn the key and nothing happens. Lights come on but nothing after that. If I try to hot wire wire the motor will spin but will not start. It just spins and spins like it is not getting any gas. It is almost like the ignition has been disbled and the fuel injectors are not working. I am starting to get concerned that it is the ignition. Please help.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Well, I'm not there, but from your description the first place I would look is the ignition switch since you can bypass it by "hot wiring" it and get the starter to operate. It doesn't sound like passlock from your description.
  • pteggiepteggie Member Posts: 2
    Hey Ive got the same situation with my 01 Alero. For the longest time, weve had the security issue where we would have to wait 15 min or more to start the car at various times. Now, the battery acts drained, clock reads 12:00, and car has a hell of a time starting. Does that hall effect sensor have an affect on the battery and where is this sensor located so I can disable it so my wife isnt stranded at her job.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    It doesn't have anything to do with the battery. It's on the ignition switch. Your choices are to replace the ignition switch or bypass the sensor. The procedure to bypass has been discussed here many times in both this forum and the Grand Am forum, do a search for it.
  • mudster66mudster66 Member Posts: 8
    Just to throw my 2 cents in to this, I can let you know that my issue from back in April was resolved by them replacing the ignition switch. It's been starting fine ever since. Not sure what was up with the old one that it would start fine in the morning and evening but not after sitting in the sun all day though?
  • freyamafreyama Member Posts: 1
    I started my Alero and them went off I try start it again and won't start the security light is not blinking the car turn so I know is not the Battery if sound like if was not getting any fuel but the tank is at 3/4 full I try turning the key to acc. and wait to see if the security light goes out but it won't go out so I don't think is the passlock the engine turn but don't even try to start please help me Thank You
  • jtchristiankjtchristiank Member Posts: 4
    My limited experience is just what I posted. By the way, since I cut the "yellow wire", I have not had this problem recur.
    If your engine turns over but won't start, it could have a faulty fuel pump (assuming it's not the electrical issue). Take a can of carburetor cleaner and spray a little in the canister that houses the air filter. If, right after you've sprayed, the engine trys to "catch" but still won't completely start or stay running, it's probably the fuel pump.
  • joyce6joyce6 Member Posts: 7
    you didnt happen to put wrong key in did you?/ if that's not it did you get that recall done. i did both and it hasnt happened anymore
  • sammy27sammy27 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 alero 2.2 ecotec engine with 50,000 k (30,000 miles). The engine cranks but it won't start. I can detect the smell of gas when I take the air cleaner cover off. The security light does turn off.
  • sammy27sammy27 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 olds alero 2.2 ecotec engine 50,000 K. I went to start it this morning and when I fired it up it ran for a second and I heard a thump from under the hood, not a metallic sound but more like a belt breaking sound. The car stalled. I checked under the hood but couldn't see any problems. Car will now crank but will not start. I took the airfilter out and can smell raw gas after I crank it so I am assuuming that it is getting gas. The security light stops flashing when I turn the key.
  • ssjs304ssjs304 Member Posts: 1
    Hey just wanted to reply to ur forum I didthe same thing and 5months later it started again this time they said it was the passlock sensor just to give u heads up that 500.00 for the sensor mor than the ignition switch
  • ahembreeahembree Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 alero. When you try to start it, it just makes one click and does nothing else. All lights are working as well as windows. It has a V6. Can anyone help?
  • fschoefflerfschoeffler Member Posts: 7
    A good writeup (with pictures) on disabling the Passlock security feature can be found at http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm
  • eleykimberlyeleykimberly Member Posts: 2
    On September 17, 2008, the wiring harness on my Alero caught on fire, while driving the road. It started smoking, so I immediately pulled to the side of the road, cut the ignition switch off, and jumped out the car. The fire department came, and after looking under the hood of the car, and checking inside, they're solution was to take it back to the car dealer ship. I only had the car for four months, so that's what I did. The car dealer transferred me to their auto repair shop, which they explained that the warranty wouldn't cover the damages, because it wasn't a mechanical problem, but just a electrical problem. My insurance company wouldn't cover it, because it wasn't in a collision. The repair shop explained that it was a malfunction within the wiring harness itself. I'm still paying payments on a car that I can not drive. I have called the oldsmobile recall center, which they are doing an investigation on. The car dealer, Drive Time, out of Chesapeake, VA are giving me the run around. They claim to refer me to the total lost. The repairs, with labor, the diagnoses, and taxes, all together is $3,533.45. That's another car, which I feel that this shouldn't be my responsibility. Then I did some research on 2003 Oldsmobile Aleros, that there are many recalls on these cars. I'm waiting on the total lost department to call me, which I haven't got a call yet. I have been in a rental car for four weeks now, and my insurance company has went to my limit, and now I'm paying out of my pocket, which I'm out of funds, and don't know what else to do.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    How old is the car and what mileage? I assume it was used when you bought it from your description. What kind of warranty, if any, did it come with?
  • eleykimberlyeleykimberly Member Posts: 2
    The year of the car is a 2003, so it's 5 years old, with 87 miles on it. When I bought the car, it was used, and it had only 80 miles on it. I only had the car for four months before this wiring harness fire happened. The warranty that was on the car, was for 180 days, which covered the axle, transmission, and motor, but nothing within the dashboard, or radio. Everything was manufacture inside the car. My insurance wouldn't cover it, because it wasn't in a collision. The only thing they would cover was the radio, which was a $11.56 check, with the deductible of $250.00 that I would have to pay. I hope that helped, I pray that you could give me a solution. I called the oldsmobile manufacture recall center, so they have gotten involved. I'm just waiting on them now. My next step is to the media, and a lawyer.
  • patriot79patriot79 Member Posts: 4
    I FIXED MY ALERO. My alero was not starting and have to wait 10 min with key on. My gf's cousin brought his car computer over and hooked it up. At the end he said it was a bad ground for the computer security bla bla bla. I looked under the hood and I found 3 or 4 ground wires, 2 grounding to the Driver side fender, One on the front in front of the air hose, driver side, and one on or around the fuse box itself. i got a wrench and loosened the bolts a little and wiggled the wire connectors and then tighten them back up, The car has STARTED EVERY TIME SINCE, NO PROBLEMS :) !!
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles