Oldsmobile Alero Starting-Stalling Problems

appellof · January 2010

OK here is the cost of the starter motor. I had to replace mine earlier in the week. It was $169.99. That does not include the core charge which is $35.00. I don't know what the labor would cost because I did it myself. usually most repair shops will charge between $65 and $85 dollars an hour for labor. It took me about an hour to install. I also found out when my car won't start, I can force it. Here is what I do.
In my previous posts, I have mentioned that the ignition switch is multi-layer and the switch contacts that keep the signal voltage hot to the ignition module is opening and the starter motor just runs but the engine does not start. Here is what I do to by-pass the ignition switch issue. There are 2 terminals on the starter motor. One is a large terminal that a large guage wire from the battery connects to. The second terminal is much smaller and there is a small guage wire that connects to it. With the key in the "ON" position, take an Aligator clip lead, Radio Shack has the clip leads, put one end on the smaller terminal of the starter motor and take the other end of the clip lead and touch the positive terminal of the battery.
The starter motor will engage and if there is no other unforseen problems, the engine will start.

I hope this helps someone some day
Daniel

dark_knight · January 2010

Here goes the broken Record, I have an 02 Olds Alero V6 Engine power everything, I've encountered and overcome the Driver side wheel bearing issue... the High Fan Only Cycle is looking at me from the ugly corner of the garage, and I am currently fighting with the Ignition Lock Cylinder. :mad:
I purchased the Ignition switch, but it turns out that it was not the problem (because there was no change in how the car operated, security light still flashed)... after hours of questioning my basic mechanical know how of cause and effect, I was finally able to remove the lock cylinder, returned the switch and started toying with the pass lock reset... I was up til 3AM last night. I noticed that the security light stopped flashing from the onset, not like before (up to 10 minutes) I am thinking about testing out the direct starter bypass... how much of a gauge should i use, and is there an appropriate size (volt amp) for toggle switch (for the starter, and pass lock wires, or just the pass lock after the car turns on) or will just anything work... or am I creating a can of worms that will open up on me later down the road. Sorry I am frazzled and no amount of coffee will make the migraine go away. Any suggestions... Thanks.

appellof · January 2010

Dark Knight,

I have not really had to work with the passlock system yet (notice I said YET).
I do know that when the security light flashes, it does lock out the ignition mudule. How to Bypass? I really don't know the answer yet. But I know I will someday. As far as the guage of wire to be used for the starter bypass, I use a 18 AWG with aligator clips on each end. If you are looking to install a permanent starter bypass switch, I highly recommend a momentary push button instead of a toggle switch.
As far as the current rating, make sure it can handle at least 5 Amps. Have you tested the Crank Shaft position sensor? Also make sure that the Camshaft sensor is working. I know you will not like this, but go back to the ignition switch plug assembly and verify that you did not inadvertantly loosen or broke a wire off of one of the terminals.

I hope this helps

Daniel

dark_knight · January 2010

Daniel,
The wires were in good repair... I've once made the mistake applying too much pressure on the screwdriver prying one off before... I'll look tonight for the camshaft & Cranks Shaft Position Senor and check them out...
I couldn't get the starter motor to turn while still mounted on the engine... Yes I followed the "Haynes" Instruction Manual: raised the car on jack stands, chocked the back tires, and engaged the parking brake. I removed the starter motor, BTW it took me a good 15 minutes to find the 2nd bolt to the transmission splash guard, Small engine compartment + Husky Guy = aches & pains all over arms and back muscles. I took it to the local Auto Parts Store, he got it to engage... of course he started trying to sell me a new one for $169, Lifetime Warranty, or $136 One Year warranty, "but oh, how about that we just plum ran out." I finally convinced him I was not interested and left with my starter. Not that I'm throwing in the towel but I will re-install the old Ignition switch, take it to the mechanic who got it running the first time ($55 smackers the first time), and then "Macgyver Rig" (bypass) the yellow pass lock wire with a toggle switch. Wish me Luck...

When it rains it pours... Maybe it's the cold spell (see were in the 70's here in Deep South Texas, pull out the parkas!!!) But the alternator (I'm sure) is slacking in charging the battery... 1st clue is the Gauge in the dash will, after a while of running and the screeching stops, go past 14. So I make sure to get a good charge before I turn it off and for good measure I've got a fully charged portable charger and booster cables.

appellof · January 2010

Dark Knight,

Before you install the Ignition switch, You might want to get some good contact cleaner and spray it in the switch contacts and get them cleaned before you reinstall it into the car. Just a word of advice. That starter should have engaged while it was still mounted to the engine. I wish it was in the 70's here. Heck, I would be happy if the temp was in the 40's here in Little Rock Arkansas.

Good Luck My Friend

Daniel

jaedee1 · January 2010

Yes, you are right! It was the wrong advice... the problem was with the tester. I used another compression tester and it held the compression at 153 153 153 135 on the cylinders. However, my no-start problem is still persisting. I have applied every trick in the books to solve this with no success. The final stage of the car now, is that it seems to not be burning the fuel, as there is fuel deposit on the spark plugs tips after trying to start it. It does sorta starts for half a second and idles rough, but that is if I turn to ignition several times before actually starting -- and flooring the pedal while starting.

Now, someone pointed out that it could be a spark problem... Well, I dismissed that before because I did a test and saw spark; but I didn't no there was such a thing as weak spark -- mine is weak and yellow-ish, instead of bright blue and sometimes you don't even see any. But just this afternoon I grabbed the complete compartment (DIS ignition) that includes the icu, the coil, and the boots from another vehicle at a junk yard, and I'm getting the same, what is to me, weak spark. Could it be that the part from the yard is also no good?

I'm ruling out timing because my compression seems pretty good on a cold engine not start for a month now. I'm ruling out fuel, because fuel is being deposited on the plugs, and the car acts like it wants to start (and technically does very shortly). I have new spark plugs in there and gapped appropriately - so it couldn't be them.... Man, I'm tired of this car, it's been a month now. Could it possibly the the f*cking passlock bs, causing this? I ruled that out way earlier in my quest since I did the 20 min. wait procedure and still no go - but my ignition is sorta broken and the key hardly turn... Is the darn computer thinking that the car is being broken into each and every time I turn the darn key. Pardon my French... but you can see my frustration!

Should I resort to buying a pair of coils for $129?

appellof · January 2010

Jaedee1,

If you are getting a weak spark then the coils are good. So there is no reason to go buy coils. Have you replaced the ignition module that connects to the coils? I have found out in years past that when a part is purchased at a salvage yard, it is a 50/50 shot if the part you are buying is really good. Have you replaced the fuel regulator? Maybe it is not regulating and it is sending too much fuel to the cylinders. Also check to see if you are getting a signal from the crank shaft position sensor. you can do this by using a volt meter and a couple of paperclips. It should be putting out approximately 1 to 2 volts A/C while the engine is being cranked. Also, have you tried by-passing the ignition switch "START" contacts with a jumper wire from the positive battery post to the small stud on the starter? Understand that you don't leave the jumper wire in place. once the engine starts, then remove the jumper.

I hope this helps
Daniel

janeo22 · January 2010

Yes it could! I had to put my key in, position to the first "click" and wait the entire night one time. Twice it sat in the dealers lot waiting out the same thing, as they could not find anything else wrong. The thing that is happening with my 2003 Alero, is that once this happens, and it reset's itself successfully, (the car starts) it doesn't happen again for a couple of months. I've been llucky though, as my ignition went out too, when the car was still under warranty. I've also had two new keys made and "set" by the dealer, so all is fine for now. The dealer where I bought the car, has been able to fix every quirky thing that has happened the 5 years I've had it. It's almost paid for and then it's outta my possession! I''m getting another Acura, never, ever had problems with the 3 I owned previous to this car. I live through MN winters so it's important I have a dependable car. I'll be praying for a successful outcome for you with this.

jaedee1 · January 2010

Thanks Daniel, for coming back to the rescue on this. Obviously, some mechanic gave me the wrong advice which caused me to brake off our previous thread... But once again, you are telling me some good stuff that I didn't think of. So weak spark doesn't necessarily mean bad coils?? OK, I think I know what the fuel regulator is, and I can look into changing that. Though, I don't know how to go about checking the crankshaft position sensor - I have no clue where that sensor would be. No, I haven't done the ignition bypass... I'll have to look online and see where my starter is on my car - Is that step intended to bypass an issue with the ignition switch itself?

Since you mention the fuel regulator, my biggest turmoil now is deciding whether my problem is too much fuel or too little spark. Pay attention to the following and see if you can somehow discern the problem and shade some light on this for me:

1) The fuel pumps kicks in
2) If I keep the fuel pump relay in the car while continuously trying to start it, it'll just crank, and make no sign of trying to start. Spark plugs will be damped with fuel when removed.
3) If I remove the fuel relay after the above sequence and try to start the car, it will begin to act as if it's starting... If I floor the pedal then, it will indeed start for a brief second and sound rough, then die... It'll kinda rough-short-start again a couple more times, then it'll go back to not trying to start at all -- (obviously at that point the left over fuel had dried since the relay is not in.)
4) If I put the relay back in and turn to ignition 3 times before I start, it'll will sorta start when I turn the key all the way in on the fourth time... But then with the relay back in, the car eventually floods again.

So, this is the nightmare I'm having to deal with, and I can't call it. What do you get from this? I'm awaiting your advice before I buy any parts. Thanks!

jaedee1 · January 2010

Boy I'll be darn if the issue has been with the ignition the whole time - I've put in two weeks of troubleshooting so far. The thing is, I discarded the possibility of that being the issue since I read up what people on this forum have done - and went and waited my 20 minutes - and got no result. But now I'm hearing, there are different positions the key needs to be on, there are different amounts of time for it to reset, that there's this, that, and what-have-you... I'm confused! Also, I removed the battery several times to get it recharged, so I figured any computer records preventing anything from initiating properly would be erased... I don't know, I've done so much to this car unsuccessfully that I have to reconsider it being an ignition-computer communication issue. Thanks for your insights!

PS. Acura's are great, I love the 91-95 Legends!

jaedee1 · January 2010

Hey, how is this endeavor against GM coming? Did the talk about this forum air yet? I wanna join in, cause I one _issed-off customer!

appellof · January 2010

Jaedee,

OK, lets start with the coils, As you are aware, the coils are just that. A coil of wire wrapped around a ferrite core. The coils will either work or not work. If you are getting any spark at all weak or strong, the coils are fine. I have a 2000Alero with the 2.4L 4 cylinder engine. If yours is the same as mine, the starter motor is actually simple to get to. When I replaced my starter motor, I did not have to climb inder the car to change it. It was nice. When you are standing in front of the car, the starter motor is right under the Air intake for the throttle body. After reading over your meassge, My first thought is the Fuel Regulator. Here is my explanation on why I feel it is the Regulator. If you have the relay in, the spark plugs come out drenched in fuel and the engine won't start. It is because the fuel pump is pressurizing the fuel line up to about 75 PSI. The Regulator has to regulate that pressure at approximately, 40 PSI. The fuel injectors can not handle anything over 45 PSI. They start to leak fuel into the firing chamber at the wrong time and it soaks the spark plugs. With the relay removed, the fuel pump is not keeping the fuel line pressurized and the left over pressure will indeed cause the engine to start briefly. However with the lack of pump pressure the engine will run rough and it will die because it is starving for fuel. As far as the Ignition switch by-pass, (as I call it)
yes it by-passes the ignition switch "START" contacts. I have to go to work now, But I will post another message here shortly and tell you where to look and what to do to test the Crank Shaft position sensor. I hope this helps.

Daniel

kfische6 · January 2010

I'm also having some serious issues with my 2000 Alero...The security crap was happening and before I saw this website i dumped $700 into getting a new ignition switch and starter, but now the car stalls all the time (happened yesterday going 75mph on the thruway) and now it still starts, but the the panel with the gauges and stuff won't light up anymore...I have no idea and have seen no posts about this problem

appellof · January 2010

Kfische6,

When you say it won't light up, are you meaning that the dash lights don't come on? Or are you saying that none of the guages including speedometer and tachometer (RPM) and the digital display for the odometer does not work. Please be alittle bit more specific. Then I MAY be able to help figure out it's problems.

Daniel

jaedee1 · January 2010

Yes, Daniel, this helped a lot; and indeed, we do have the same engine on our cars, so I think the configurations are the same -- this should help!
OK, great, so I'll do the ignition by-pass first; if no-go, I'll proceed with changing the fuel regulator. I plan on doing that tomorrow. I'll post the results and await your advice on the crankshaft sensor test. Thank you so very much again!

1998lincoln · March 2010

You can tell if the water pump is bad when it leaks water from the bottom of the pump, and it will over heat the engine !

1998lincoln · March 2010

sounds like your "Mass Air Flow" sensor is bad, go to Autozone they can test it !

widoc · March 2010

I bought a 2004 Oldsmobile Alero in April of 2007. I was having the same problem many of you are having...car not starting, security light on. Although it seems everyone has just slightly different symptoms, so I'll try to describe mine the best I can.
A few months after I bought the car I had my first experience. We couldn't get it started, left it sit over night, still no luck the next day. We had it towed to the deal we bought it from. I believe they got it started right away, but then they couldn't recreate, the problem. They sent us on our way. The problem happened again a little while later and the dealership told us to try the put the key in the ignition in the "on" position and wait for the alarm system to reset. That worked. We were also told to try disconnecting the negative battery terminal, I tried but that didn't work. On here I've read if you do that, to leave it disconnected for 5 or 10 seconds, which I never did so I'm not sure if that works.
Over the next three years the problem came and went in spurts. I couldn't pin point a reason or specific condition that would bring up the problem...until recently. All last summer I don't remember having any issues with it not starting. Then this winter it got bad. One thing I noticed that would bring on the problem would be if you didn't turn the key long enough while trying to start the car. It wouldn't start, then when you tried again it would just turn over but not start. So...sit and wait. When it would start sometimes the security light would stay on while I was driving and other times it would go off, not sure what caused that.
Eventually the problem would occur even if I gave the key a good crank. It still wouldn't start. This last weekend the problem happened to me 5 times in 2 days. I had enough, I needed to figure out what was going on and how to fix it. I started searching these forums. I didn't want to pay $300 or whatever it would have cost to fix it at a dealership. On one of these forums I found a link to this website...
http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm

The website actually references a Grand Am, but he mentions several times that it is the same on an Alero. I followed his instructions and was able to fix my car...so far. I did this on Saturday and since then haven't had any problems, only 4 days, but I'll take it since the two previous days I had the issue arise on 5 occasions.

It is definitely worth it to. I bought a 5 pack of resistors at Radio Shack for $1.00, so $.20 a peice. $.20!!!, well worth it for the frustration it was causing. The process sounds complicated, but if you take you time and go step by step it was rather quite simple. I hope this helps someone. So far I'm very pleased with the results.

burdawg · March 2010

What you have done by following that procedure is bypassed the Hall effect (magnetic) sensor on the ignition switch, which is the problem in well over 90% of the time with passlock. The only downside is the car can now be started easier without the key. I don't think there's a long line of car thieves out there waiting to steal your Alero or Grand Am though.
Your symptoms are classic for Passlock problems, the secuity light was coming on while driving to warn you that the Passlock was failing, and the randomness in the no start/having to wait for reset is common.

ja33 · March 2010

I guess it is time to repeat my simple solution to the Alero or Grand Am owners' passlok problem as described in my post # 187, dated July 8, 2009. At that time I posted it after 8 months of success. And now after 16 months I have not had a single starting problem. I posted it on the Grand Am site Those owners who admitted having tried it, were successful. Other experienced Grand AM owners tried to explain it. Believe me, this solution is not rocket science, OR maybe I'm just lucky. And I QUOTE .............

At 36,000 miles my 2001 Olds Alero started having passlock starting problems. At first it was every other month and then after 2 years it happened with every other turn of the key. Since I am not the least bit mechanically inclined, I tried any and all procedures suggested on the internet except cutting wires, or installing a new switch. Eight months ago I decided to clean the grooves on my ignition key with a squirt of 3 in 1 oil. THE CAR STARTED RIGHT UP. I did it again for the next 3 days to gain little confidence in the procedure. THE ALERO CONTINUES TO START EVERY TIME
Now once a month I oil the key, push it in and out of the switch slowly a couple times. When starting the car, do not jam the key in quickly and turn. Take your time. It seems to be a very sensitive switch, and needs a little TLC to prevent dirt build up. Try it. A little 3 in 1 oil squirt might save you a $500 repair bill. I told my GM dealer mechanic about this solution. He said "Yeah, it might work" UNQUOTE

If this procedure works for you, or any other Alero owner I would appreciate hearing your results-good or bad. Don't use any fancy ignition key lubrication from an auto parts store. Just a little dab of plain,old 3 in 1 oil (Grandma's old sewing machine lubricant).................Ja

PS I am tempted to send 3 in Oil Company this unsolicited testimony, since it really did save my wife from trading in the Alero. We must start the car at least 8 times a day

timsyk · April 2010

where do you get the 3-in-1 oil? what brand and name? i have a friend who is a mechanic and he tested with his equipment and said that my car has a problem with security system and can't recognized my key. i have changed the system and updated with security code from dealer about 3-4 years ago, but happened again. i was about to do the same which cost me about $700. please give me your answer in detail. thanks.

ja33 · April 2010

K-Mart, Wal-Mart, Ace Hardware,Grocery store, Target, Home Depot, any place that sells WD-40.. It is branded 3-in-ONE oil. Small black and white container with a nozzle. Just a couple of bucks.

pain_007 · April 2010

Hi all,

After reading all this post on this issue, I think I should trade in for a different car. We bought this car in Oct 08 with 41K miles, 03 model from a dealer. we ran into issue right after 15 days as it was covered under 1 month warranty the dealer said that the issue was with the Passlock system and it needed to update the code and the problem went away. After a month the car was running low on fuel so we decided to put fuel, and at the gas station after filling it the car wont start. but after 10 min it started again, and after few days when my wife was coming from work the car died on one of the most busiest intersection of the city. I got the car towed to the same dealer, and he said that the fuel pump was dead, but this time it was not under the 1 month warranty. I wanted to just leave the car right there with them, but the cost for driving that car for 45 days was 1500$ so I decided to go ahead and replace it for 400$. They have charged me 300$ for the new pump, but online Delphi pump was available for 185$ so I fought with the dealer to give me back the money and he gave me 100$ back. Everything was working fine until last month when all the gauges in the car wont work but the car will work fine. The gauges would come back online after 5 min or sometimes 10 min but there was no starting trouble. After going to all the problems and reading this I had bought an extended warranty to cover all the future repairs. Now last week the car died on a freeway and my wife was on the left most lane and it is tough to bring the car to right side. after 5 min the car started again. We took to the dealer as we have warranty on that car, but he couldn't recreate the problem. so we are back on the road and it didnt give any prob for 3 days and again gave the starting prob. so we took to another dealer who diagnosed the problem with ignition switch, fuel filter and some ignition contact. total 800$ so I called the warranty people and they say in the contract ignition switch is not covered, but ignition module is covered, so I am planning to go to the dealer and ask to change the whole ignition module and the switch and charge it to the warranty direct people. But after reading every post here, I tried the 3 in1 oil stuff and some more precautions and the car is starting now and didnt give much trouble. so I am waiting for taking to back to dealer, and if the problem persists I will by pass the PAss lock feature.
Anybody has some insights what should I do... I dont have any problem trading this car to get a new car if it comes to that

Rgds,
Nitin

zandria · April 2010

Hello...I hope someone can help because I am at my wits' end with this! My car stalls out when I am idling and/or making a turn..it will cut right back on but it has happened twice while I was in traffic and most frequently when I am making a turn. Work I've had done recently: tune up 2 months ago, thermostat replaced 2 weeks ago; most recently replaced my fuel filter and, in the hopes that it would fix the problem, an idle air control valve. That last part improved the problem only slightly. Up until today, my service engine light wouldn't come on, and when I'd have someone put it on the scanner/diagnostic machine, no codes would come up at all. I don't want to have to continue to spend money replacing parts in the process of elimination, but that is what I'm doing. I know it could be the throttle position sensor, the mass air flow sensor, or it could be the idle air control position sensor, and a couple of other things; I went up to the dealer this morning to get an idea of what they think; those fools only told me that my transmission mounts need to be replaced. Okay, fine, but what's causing the stalling? When I asked him, he said, almost as in afterthought, "Oh, your catalytic converter is clogged." Gee, thanks...now I'm not even sure I can trust anything you tell me now because you were more concerned about picking up a $1000 job than you were about addressing the issue I'd brought the car in for in the first place. I'm sorry for rambling; I'm just really frustrated and I'm hoping that someone can please help me figure this out! Thank you!

pteggie · April 2010

Based on previous experience, have your CV boots checked. Sounds like one CV boot could be damaged, causing a strain on your engine when you are turning. Also, check your EGR valve, that could be going bad causing the car to shut off on idle. Sorry that I could not narrow it down anymore for you.

pain_007 · April 2010

Hello All,

My wife called me today and told that the car died on the same exact spot it died after running for 10 minutes while coming from work. Same spot and same location. We took the car to the dealer and he said it had to do something with the anti-theft not been programmed properly. Today also same thing happened. Do you think that I should just by pass the security. I cant come up with any other solution. Do you think that the car dying while running has something to do with Fuel filter.
I am getting more and more inclined towards trading this car in
Any insights would be appreciated.

texasroz007 · May 2010

First of all I just want to say how glad I am to find other people who feel my pain.

I have a 1999 Alero and am having constant trouble with the car not starting. I just spent a $100 at the dealer to do a diagnostic and found it was my Security Passlock Sensor and would cost $500 to fix. I think what i need to do is bypass the security system, and have found instructions how to do this. If anyone thinks I should do something else please let me know. I am currently unemployed and money is tight so am trying to find the cheapest way to get the dang car running and not having to wait 10 minutes everytime i go out to the car for it to start.

We will all survive this car I know, but it's doesn't seem like it sometimes. thanks for all the help in advance.

texasroz007 · May 2010

Hi, how do I get in on this class action suit? I have had my Alero 15 months and the passlock sensor problem is almost daily now. Thanks for your time.

jepa · June 2010

Hi, my son attends school and he bought a 2002 Alero to get to his part time job. He can't afford $400 or $500 every month or so to keep this crappy car running. Thanks a lot GM.

You deserve to go bankrupt. If it was up to me you wouldn't have gotten bailed out!

I can't believe how many hundred posts I've read in the past few days on this same problem, and GM still won't take any responsibility for it at all.

Message to GM execs: What goes around comes around!

shooter79 · June 2010

Quick background.
Had security light flashing. Then went solid and car is no start even with the 10 minute wait.
1. Changed key cylinder housing and light is no longer on or flashing. Car still wont start.
2. Sprayed the throttle body... started for a moment.
3. Changed the relay because there was intermittant buzzing from there and no start.
4. Checked the schrader valve on the fuel line and no pressure at all.
5. Changed the fuel pump. Once in a while you could hear the old fuel pump run when you turned the key on but now the new one doesnt at all and there is still no fuel.
6. Tested the injectors for power and there is.
7. Tested the plug on the bottom of the car and there was 5v to 2 pins. Will check for 12v tomorrow at pump.

What else could this be? Could it be the BCM? The key cylinder itself without flashing the security light? Is there another relay for the fuel besides the one in the fuse box under the hood?
Thank you all and I hope that someone can help soon!
Travis

appellof · June 2010

Travis,

I looked at the print and the fuel pump electrical circuit does not go through the Body Control Module. It is wired directly to the Fuel Pump Relay. I don't know what engine size you have, but according to the print, there is a Grey wire that runs down to the fuel Pump from the relay. There is however, a Junction Point. the Junction Point is referred to "LEFT I/P JUNCTION BLOCK" Be very careful when working with that junction block because that junction block also has the DATA LINK wiring on it and if you accidentlly disrupt that wiring, or break a wire off and not realize it, then the computer systems will not work at all. That DATA LINK is the life line of the car. Also make sure that the connection on the FUEL PUMP relay is not broken. I have seen in the past that when relays get replaced, the connection pins on the relay push the wiring out of the back of the relay socket.

I hope this helps,

Daniel

2002carowner · June 2010

My "security" system disabled the car. How do I remove it? You mentioned you know how. Can you please share that with me? Thanks, Randy

oldsman1907 · June 2010

I have a 2003 alero. When it is hot outside, it will crank & run for 3-4 sec. then go dead. After 5-7 attempts to keep it running, it finally stays on but I have to keep it idled up high and when at a red light, etc. I have to quickly put it in nuetral to keep it running. Then after 10 miles down the road, it'll stop doing this. yesterday, when the rpm's got below 2000, the rpm needle started jumping ...this was flying down the road at 50-65 mph.
help!!!! i put a idle control valve on 3 weeks ago @$407..10 months a new fuel pump. in the morning it runs great. but evenings when sitting in the sun? it does this everytime!

appellof · June 2010

Oldsman1907,

I was reading your post and you described some of my problems. I have a 2000 Alero with a 4 cylinder. When I drive to work first thing in the morning it runs great.
I don't have the issue with it not staying running, but I notice that after I get to work, and I go to lunch, it starts acting up. The engine starts to drop out as if it is loosing fuel. I really notice it when I load down the engine (i.e. A/C running and when I am stopped at the red light with it in gear. I have a theory, There is a temperature sensor on the air intake duct that might be bad. I am not telling you that is the problem with our cars but it is just a theory. I will be replacing mine today or tomorrow. I will let you know what I find. Something else I should mention though, I had this issue just a couple of weeks ago. On the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor the vacuum hose deteriorated and the engine just plain quit. You might want to look at that.

Daniel

oldsman1907 · June 2010

I'm having to park under a tree at work if i get there early enough. Everyday I park under the tree....it starts!!!! Freeky ain't it? What will cause this?? I've had it towed 7 times for non cranking due to a fuel problem.

janeo22 · June 2010

Hey, try having your fuel filter changed and your fuel system cleaned. This was a suggestion from a mechanic friend, and seemed to help mine. (Drive a 2003 Alero). I also got a new battery a little over a year ago. Things are going good right now (knock on wood.)! I will say I've only been stranded once and that was when the battery died. I do find my self praying every time I go for a longer drive, that I make it there and back home. From the way things sound here, I'm very fortunate. Good luck!

oldsman1907 · June 2010

if it is not kicking over, it might be the fuel relay in the box under the hood. just an idea. My AC relay is the same size. At times, I just switched them and it would crank right up!!!

janeo22 · June 2010

I pause on the ACC point when turning the key for a few seconds every time I put the key in. The only time I interrupt the security sensor and cause a problem is when I try to jam it in quick and turn it over. That never works. Then I have to turn the key all the way back off, and let it sit on the ACC spot on the switch for at least 20 minutes, until the security light stops blinking. This trick has never failed me. So, I have not been stahled, ever, without my car but once, and that was because the battery died. I did have to have the ignition switch replaced, only once, and that was when the car was still under warranty.

joyce6 · June 2010

i have a 2003 alero 4-cylinder, had this problem was at work, had to have it towed, and the fuel pump and everything in the gas tank , hd to be replaced, been working fine since, mechanic said it was the fuel sensors in the tank. $350. worth but everything fine.

oldalerolady · June 2010

I have a 2001 alero 4 door 4 cyl with over 170,000 miles. I have had intermittent engine starting issues. New fuel pump, new battery, reset the security light, etc. This last time it kept me out of work and I called the trusty AAA and was towed to the nearest station. They could not figure it out and could not keep it started. They said everything looks fine and the car would start then quit right away. They suggested I have it towed to the place I bought it from and they could figure it out. Well, that is over an hour away, definately over $100 to tow it. I decided to buy a different car so I would have reliable transportation to work. After I bought a different car, I read the forum here and the one thing I had never tried was cleaning the key so I thought what the hay, cleaned it once and it didn't work. Really soaked the key and even used a bit of oil after I dried it off and the car started!! I couldn't believe it and neither could the mechanic. Has started every time I have tried it since although it has been sitting a lot because I bought a new car. It will be my daughters car when she gets her license. Except for that one thing it has been pretty much our old reliable. Way better air conditioning and more comfortable than the new car.

ja33 · July 2010

You might want to keep that old reliable 2001 Alero now that you have found the 3 in 1 oil solution to your passlok problem. I don't know if you read my post #275 regarding 3 in1 oil, but it will probably reinforce your continued use of the oil at least on a monthly basis with a little TLC when turning the switch. We are now in our 21st month of successful starting our 2001 Alero on the first crank..............Ja

dead03alero · July 2010

My wife bought this car over 4 years ago. It has about 99k on it. The engine died while she was driving home from work last week, so we had it towed home. We have tried the "turn the key to on for 10 mins and let the passlock system reset" trick and it worked a few times but now it is like it gets no fuel at all and can't recognize the key no matter how long you let it sit. Is there some way to disable the passlock or reset the passlock or whatever? I saw someone had taken theirs to the dealer and had it reset for like $75. Is this still woking? I am looking for any help. We can't afford to buy a new car right now.

burdawg · July 2010

The key doesn't have anything to do with it on a passlock system, only on the passkey system, which you don't have. I didn't see anything on your post about the security light coming on - which will happen when the passlock is tripped. Also, if the passlock becomes tripped while driving the engine won't shutdown, but the security light will come on solid. You may have a failing fuel pump, that fits your description better.

oldsman1907 · July 2010

I had a new fuel pump put in a few months ago. I have a 2003 alero. I had been having the same problems. also, if it is hot outside, when i try to start it...it'll run for 2 seconds and go dead. it's like the fuel is shut off!!!
Now it is refusing to crank. Again, just like it is not getting fuel. I've got a data collector from a GM mechanic wired to my car. They said when I'm having those problems, hit the big red button and it will record all activity for 20 seconds.
This is the 2nd time it's been put in my car. They still can't find the problem.
2 months ago, they put a new air control sensor that cost parts/labor $407.
HELP!!!!!

05wagon · July 2010

We had the same starting issues. Fortunately we had extended warranty on our 2002 Alero. Two weeks before expiration of Ext Warr they put in a fuel pump. But they would not honor this problem after the warranty period because their computer could not identify the problem and so pinpoint what they where liable for.
We traded in the Alero on a Ford product. Got excellent trade-in value. But we really loved that Alero. Why would GM not want us as customers to be happy.
We will never buy another GM product.
If they won't fix a relatively inexpensive problem like starting issues - what would they do with major expensive problems??? SHAME on you GM>

janeo22 · July 2010

Maybe because Olds' is out of business, GM doesn't really care about these "left overs". I suspected that would happen when I bought this car back in 2004, but a 2003 Alero with all the bells and whistles & only 12,000 miles for $10,500 was too good of a deal for me to pass on. It has been a really good car, except for the security light (passlock) issue. I have only been stranded twice since owning it, and one of these was because I needed a new battery. I drive it nearly every day. I have found it to be a great commuter car. Good mileage, comfort, music, etc... I have a few tricks that I do that I've posted before. I will keep until it dies, and I'm forced to buy something else. Cars are big black holes to throw money into, so the lesson I've learned is not to pay too much for them when you buy them. Typlically, I shop around for a long time before making a decision. And I try to read Car and Driver every month and have been for years and years. Good luck to all of you fellow Alero owners.

alerosucks01 · July 2010

ok so i have an 01 alero that i purchased in 2005. since then i have had to replace the ignition sensor(passlock sensor) 3 times($450 each time). this past march i got in my car and it started to stall while driving and by the time i got around the corner to my house it said i didn't have any gas(filled tank the day before) then it cut off. tried to start it and it beeped at me. the radio and everything still works. tried to start it later on that day and the battery had died. because this has happened to many times before i know its the passlock system. i cant afford another sensor. i have read post on disabling the passlock but they all say the car has to be started. my p.o.s. wont start and the 10 min reset doesent work!!! any suggestions!!!!!!!

05wagon · July 2010

Totally agree that our 2002 alero was one of the best cars that we have ever owned. We would also have liked to keetp it till the wheels fell off.
Funny thing, we too paid $10,500 and felt we got a steal. But after 30,000 km the starting problems began.

Why my disgust with GM (Olds parent co.), was the deceit and lack of concern with the handling of this problem.
By chance, I thought of checking on the internet about this problem after being told by my dealer that it was a just a matter of keep towing it in and we will see what we can find - all at my expense even though I bought the extended warranty - which I had used not once till the fuel pump replacement , which was not the solution.
We now know that GM knows all about this matter and the confused expressions and same old take the money for solutions that probably don't work. There should have been a recall for the sake of the original owners if nothing else. Then repurchase owners would now have the solution by GM' diligent study of the starting issues. (By the way my neighbour tells me he had a Grand Prix with identical issues - he got rid of it)
My point remains . many of us had to sell a car we loved because GM makes money servicing the alero with no cost absorbed by GM. (Remember, we had an extended 3 yr warr at the time the trouble started - and the GM service rep told me there would be no financial assistance after warranty period expired.
Great customer loyalty. Ofcourse GM was going into receivership and who cared about tomorrow anyway?
Glad you have found a solution and the trouble is only intermittent. For my money, I will not buy a GM product again. I will never find a GM product I could possinbly enjoy as much as we did the alero. Why reward their total disregard???

burdawg · July 2010

1. Three hall effect sensors in that amount of time is excessive. Was the "security" light flashing when you tried to start the car these times?
2. Passlock won't cause it to stall while driving under normal circumstances. If a passlock problem is detected while driving the security light will come on solid to warn you a problem has occurred.
3. Passlock won't cause the battery to go dead. Also, did the battery go dead because you ran it down trying to start it or just on it's own?
4. Has the fuel pump been checked?

appellof · July 2010

Ok, I agree with Burdawg, 3 hall effect sensors usually don't go bad in that short amount of time. The price you paid for the first one, there should have been at least some sort of warranty on the part. I assume the fuel guage is saying it is out of gas If it is telling you that it has no gas, but you filled it up the day before, that leads me to believe that the connector on the fuel pump assembly has loosened up or corroded. Also you might want to check the fuel pump fuse and relay to verify that they are in good working order. When you had the Passlock sensor replaced, did they clean the contacts of the ignition switch? I have a 2000 Alero and when the temerature is below 50 degrees F, my car won't start because I need to clean the contacts of the switch. I also had an issue with my MAP sensor vacuum hose recently as well. I don't know what engine size you have, but on mine, I have the 4 cylinder 2.4 L engine. If you have the 6 cylinder engine, there is a fuel test port that you can connect a fuel pressure guage to and see if you are getting fuel. On cars that have the 2.4 L engine like mine, there is no test port so it is difficult to connect a fuel pressure guage to it. Back to my point though, the ignition switch is a multi-layer switch. If one of those contacts gets dirty, it will prevent the car from starting.
Something else I learned just the other day about the passlock system. If the engine starts but immediately quits within 3 seconds, the Passlock system assumes that the car is being stolen and it will lock out the ignition module.
The sad part about the Alero is we love the car. It is fun to drive and it has alot of great features. The most frustrating part is when it breaks, it usually fails at the most in-opportune time and the cause of the failure is not one of the sensors so looking at the computer codes does absolutely no good. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) computer only monitors the sensors. Let us know if you have any questions.

I hope this helps

Daniel

Oldsmobile Alero Starting-Stalling Problems

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles