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Oldsmobile Alero Starting-Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • mamabetty77mamabetty77 Member Posts: 2
    I have spent a long time reading these forums and tried just about everything mentioned...I have yet to replace anything except the battery because money is tight and I need to make sure and get it right the first time. Here's what's going on...
    an 02 i bought in feb 10 with 104K (i saw right away the ignitioin lock cylinder was bad and had to learn how to giggle it just right in order to start). i put 4K on it and it has sat for the majority of the last 3 or 4 months.First started shutting down in the middle of driving, and then not starting at all. my first success at starting it again was with quick starting fluid, ran for one day and then wouldnt start again, then i found this forum and tried wd40 on my keys, manually locking and unlocking both doors, turning the key in the on position for 10 min (that worked like 4 times).
    So today i decide to take another shot at it after not starting for a month...i turned the key and floored the accelerator pumping it and it started maybe 7 times....now back to nothing.
    i have dreamed of owning this car since the first time i saw it, finally i had the means but i put everything i had into buying the car :cry:
    so has anyone thought of the ignition cylinder or switch? i havent really seen it mentioned on here but i know they turn on systems such as the fuel system
    HHHHHHEEEEEELLLLLLLLPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!! :confuse:
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Nowhere on your post did I see anything about the security light coming on and blinking when you try to start it. If that's not happening, then it's probably not the passlock system. Has the fuel supply been checked? Your symptoms sound a lot like a weak, failing fuel pump, or clogged fuel filter. The ignition switch is a possibility also especially if you had to "jiggle" it to get it to work.
  • mamabetty77mamabetty77 Member Posts: 2
    the security light does not come on or blink anymore, but reseting it did get it to start a few times with no hesitation. how do i go about checking the fuel supply? that was initially what i thought until the security came about...but i guess it is a good place to start. could u also tell me where i could find info on how to change it? i never worked on anything past the mid 90's so i am pretty lost with this car. tyvm. :shades:
  • ataylor3ataylor3 Member Posts: 2
    I bought my 2000 Oldsmobile Alero as of a week and two days ago. It has been legally on the road for maybe five days. Yesterday, it wouldn't start. I turned the key but there was no noise, no nothing. The lights inside would come on, but there was no clicking, knocking, humming, coughing, anything. After about an hour, we went back to the car and with a little trick that I don't know, my father-in-law got it started so that we could go somewhere. He said something about moving it so that the brushes were in the moving position. (I'm a chick that is passable in figuring out basic, major things wrong with a car so I don't know WHAT he was talking about.)

    Anyway, I went out to start my car later that night and after some cranking, it turned on. This morning, no go. It's cranking like it wants to start but it's not going the full distance. I don't know what is going on and it's so frustrating after not having a car for six months, getting one, and only using it a handful of times before it cuts out on me.

    Please help.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    To check the fuel supply the pressure needs to tested with a gauge and the flow measured by volume pumped in a specified time.
    If you mean changing the fuel pump, it's in the tank. The tank needs to be removed for access.
  • needanewcar6needanewcar6 Member Posts: 1
    I am in the same situation as you. I started driving my 04 Alero one week ago today. Went in the grocery store for less than 19 minutes and came out to a car that will not start. All the lights worked, radio, horn everything. It just would not make an attempt to start. I live in a small town so 3 mechanics I knew actually stopped by to help but were all puzzled by the situation. My uncle (a mechanic) took the starter off and had it tested. It was lock up and had no power, totally shot! So I spend $140 on the starter and stood through the embrassment of having my car worked on in the grocery store parking lot. And still that did not work. So everyone is now thinking it must be the security system. I had a new battery installed 4 days ago. Did it reset the system or something. I need some ideas.
  • ataylor3ataylor3 Member Posts: 2
    My problem was the battery. Something was on and it had drained it down to half its voltage.

    The mechanic we took it to to be sure it was the battery informed us about a little snick in the security system: For whatever reason, the starter chip in your key won't be recognized and the car won't start. The mechanic said that you had to leave the key in the starter for like ten to fifteen minutes before the problem corrects itself. Hope that might help.
  • janeo22janeo22 Member Posts: 18
    I learned this trick from this site, and it has been working for 2 years. I drive a 2003 Alero 2-door. Turn the key to ACC leave it there in the ignition for at least 25 minutes. When the time has elapsed, try starting it. If it starts it is the security passlock system locking up and not recognizing your key. Doing this resets it and reprograms your key. It is the only starting problem I've ever had with my car. Thank goodness mine is paid for now. So, I'll just drive it until it dies, and then will get something else. Am tucking monies away and hoping nothing major goes out. A mechanic told me that this usually starts happening between 75,000 and 85,000 miles, not sure how many miles are on your car, but the previous owner could have been nice enough to let you know. Hmmmm?! Hope this is it, as this is an easy fix. Good luck!
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    1. "It just would not make an attempt to start". Do you mean it would do nothing? The engine wouldn't spin when you turned the key to the start position?

    2. "My uncle (a mechanic) took the starter off and had it tested. It was lock up and had no power, totally shot! So I spend $140 on the starter and stood through the embrassment of having my car worked on in the grocery store parking lot. And still that did not work". So I guess it's safe to say the starter wasn't the problem?

    3. "So everyone is now thinking it must be the security system". Did the "security" light come on and flash when you tried to start it?

    Your Alero has Passlock II. The key deosn't have anything to do with it like in the "Passkey" security systems used in the past.
    If the "security" light is coming on and flashing when you try to start it then turn it to the "on" position, wait 10 minutes and see if the light goes out. If so, then try to start it (this is in the owners manual for reference).
    If there's been no security light, and the engine spins when you try to start, then the first place I would look is the fuel supply (pump/filter) and then the ignition switch.
    If nothing happens when you turn the key to "start", I would look at the ignition switch & battery cables first (would say battery, but it's new, make sure it's not dead or rundown). Also check that the power to the solenoid on the starter is present when the key is turned to the "start" position. Unless the solenoid on the starter engages when you try to start it the starter will never turn.
  • cateyez86cateyez86 Member Posts: 1
    I have 2003 alero and I have same issue where everything generates on car but there is no sound period. It has happened to me twice this year once in March, and most recent 2 weeks ago. I had to get car towed to an auto repair shop so they could reset my keys both times. Is there anyway this issue can be resolved w/o the expenses?
  • vince61vince61 Member Posts: 1
    I had problems with my Alero not wanting to start and then when it did it would stall. My mechanic figured out that it was the Ignition switch. I had it replaced yesterday and now it starts and runs great. I hope this helps you out.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I can't figure out what you mean by "everything generates on car but there is no sound period".
    Also, what does "reset my keys both times" mean? The keys in a Passlock II car don't have anything to do with the security system.
    Is the security light coming on and flashing when you try to start it?
  • randy91randy91 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Alero with a V-6. When it's cold, it starts and idles fine. When it's warm, I have to give it some gas to get it to start and I have to hold the gas pedal partially down after it starts or else it dies. Once it's running for 5 or 10 seconds, I can release the gas pedal and it idles on its own, but it isn't a stable idle. Once I put it in gear, it idles and runs fine. Any ideas of where to start looking?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    For those of you who have a 1999 - 2004 Alero and have been having problems with the Security system keeping you from starting the car, read on....

    I am a retired GM Electrical Engineer. I own a 2002 Grand Am, and had this problem two years ago. I bought a Shop Manual for my car ($130.00), and worked out a way of bypassing the Passlock II system on my vehicle. After making the modification on my car, I have not had a single instance of No start caused by the Security system.

    Last week, as a favor to a friend, I performed the same modification on a 2003 Alero. It took less than an hour. (not counting the time I spent taking photos of my progress) The modification was successful on that vehicle.

    Details of the modification are posted on my personal website at:

    http://www.bergerweb.net

    There are instructions on how to do the modification using two methods. Both methods bypass the security module in the ignition circuit. One bypasses it at the connector to the Body Control Module, which is under the glove box. The other does the bypass near the ignition switch, which can be reached by removing the radio.

    Please post back if you find the instructions useful.

    Richard Berger
  • myaleromyalero Member Posts: 4
    Mr Berger
    My local Radio Shaq only supplies 2.2 and 3.3 resistors. I'm needing a 2.7 resistor. Is it o.k. to use the 3.3 resistor? I serously doubt that I'll be able to find a .5 resistor; to add to the 2.2.

    All help is needed. So far, I've taken out the radio, located the yellow, black and white wires. I've straped the insulation off of the black wire.
  • oldsman1907oldsman1907 Member Posts: 7
    Question: Sometimes when cranking, it's like I messed up the process, it will kick over for a sec. or two then not crank. It then acts like it's not getting gas. My mechanic said turn on the ignition and let it stay in the on position for 15-20 min. This resets the computer I think? But it'll start then. Is this what your talking about?
  • oldsman1907oldsman1907 Member Posts: 7
    I don't hace a chip in my key(2003 model) or anything remotly electronic inside my key. I was told that it will reset the computer after 15-20 min.
    Also, if I press hard on the brake, turn on the wipers, radio, raise a window all at the same time of trying to crank, it willllll sometimes crank. NO JOKE!. :confuse:
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Does the "security" light come on and flash? Also, the passlock won't keep it from cranking, just cuts off the fuel.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Myalero,
    I should have mentioned in my instructions that you can use any resistor from about 1000 ohms to about 4000 ohms. I chose a 2.7 Kohm because it's closest to the center of the allowable range. On my Grand Am, I used a 2.2 Kohm resistor, and it worked just fine.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    edited October 2010
    Oldsman1907,

    I'm talking about when the security light comes on and flashes, or comes on and stays on solid. Read my website:

    http://www.bergerweb.net

    Your answer should be there.

    NOTE:
    Definitions: CRANK - The starter motor makes the engine turn over. Rr-rr-rr-rr-rr.
    START - Engine roars into life - Vvrrooooooommmmmmm!
    DOESN'T CRANK - No "rr-rr-rr-rr-rr"
    DOESN'T START - No "Vvrrooooooommmmmmm!"
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    edited October 2010
    Burdawg,
    Well, here you are in the Alero forums too. Did you get tired of helping out people with Grand Ams? (just kidding)
    Dick Berger
    http://www.bergerweb.net
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    No, but they're so similar that most things apply to both.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Yeah, especially the Passlock problem. So far, I've fixed two Grand Ams, One Alero, and two Chevy's.
  • myaleromyalero Member Posts: 4
    AN OPEN RECALL = TO FIX YOUR ALERO FOR FREE WILL EXIST

    IF YOU CALL THIS NUMBER AND COMPLAIN ABOUT THE SECURITY SYSTEM

    1800- 630- 2439
    CALL THIS NUMBER/SUBMIT YOUR COMPLAINT/ AND RECEIVE YOUR SERVICE REQUEST NUMBER

    THE MORE COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE SECURITY SYSTEM THE BETTER :(
    PASS THIS INFO ON
  • myaleromyalero Member Posts: 4
    I actually found the resistor that you used. I took a 30 min drive find it....
    Needless to say, I was so happy. ;)
    Followed your instructions to a {T} :blush:
    The wiring/work look beautiful. :P
    To make a long story short, it didn't work. :sick:
    My security light no longer flashes......
    Today, it stays on consistantly... controlling my battery; as to wear it will not crank
  • myaleromyalero Member Posts: 4
    I actually found the resistor that you used. I took a 30 min drive find it....
    Needless to say, I was so happy. :blush:
    Followed your instructions to a {T}
    The wiring/work look beautiful.
    To make a long story short, it didn't work.
    My security light no longer flashes......
    Today, it stays on consistantly... controlling my battery; as to wear it will not crank
    :sick: :sick: :sick: :sick:
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    edited October 2010
    I'm not sure what you mean by "Controlling my battery; as to wear it will not crank"
    If the light is on solid, it means that the BCM has found a fault with the security system. This could happen if you soldered the resistor to the wrong end of the yellow wire...You can check to see if that is the case as follows.
    * Remove the kick panel on the passenger side so you can get to the BCM. (see instructions on my website for Pontiac Fix.)
    * disconnect the center connector from the BCM
    * find the connector pin that has the yellow wire going into it. It should be the center pin on one side of the connector. Directly across from that pin, should be a pin with a black wire connected to it.
    * measure the resistance between the above two pins. They should read very near to the same resistance as the resistor you soldered into the circuit.

    If your ohmmeter reads a very high resistance or an open, you didn't make a good connection on the ground (black) wire, or you connected the other end of the resistor to the wrong end of the yellow wire. If it reads near zero ohms, the wires are shorted together. If the ohmmeter reads the correct resistance, the BCM is at fault.

    There is one other possibility. In my original instructions, I recommended using a 2.7kohm resistor. That means 2700 ohms. If you soldered in a 2.7 ohm resistor, that is the wrong size. Remove it and replace it with one of the following:
    2000 ohms - color code- red black red
    2200 ohms - color code- red red red
    2700 ohms - color code- red violet red
    3300 ohms - color code- orange orange red
    All of which should be available at any Radio Shack store. After you mentioned in another post that you could not find a 2.7 resistor, I edited my website to make it clear that any of several resistors would work.
    If the color codes for the resistor you used are red-violet-black, you have used a 2.7 ohm resistor, which will not work.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Even if the BCM finds a fault with the passlock, it shouldn't keep the starter from working...........
    I suspect there's more going on here.
  • cheriwaycheriway Member Posts: 4
    My Alero has now been into the shop twice for this same problem. The car turns over, but doesn't start. Eventually I get it to start, but then it might stall out while driving. The security light is not flashing, I learned about that problem several months ago and my mechanic figured it out by reading my owner manual then told me what to do if it happened again. So the first time I took the car in, they changed the crank sensor and this fixed the problem for a week. Then they took out the security system and it drove home just fine. A day later it starts fine and then stalls a few blocks from my house. I got it restarted and drove it home. Not sure what to do, but reading all these posts I'm wondering if it's time to get a new car. Any advice? I just read somewhere that changing out the fuel pump fuse might help?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    A day later it starts fine and then stalls a few blocks from my house.

    This is the classic symptom of a clogged fuel filter. Have that checked first. Fuel filters are much cheaper than new cars.
  • janeo22janeo22 Member Posts: 18
    I agree. Just have your fuel system cleaned and a new fuel filter put in. I have a mechanic friend who says these engines can run to 200 to 300,000 miles, so if you can take the nickle and diming along the way, this truely is cheaper than a new car. Mine is paid for now, so I'm going to keep it going until the engine dies. I really love this car when it is working well. It fits me and is much cheaper than the 2 Acura's I drove in the past, but just as fun! I will add that you need to take it to a certified mechanic between 90 to 100,000 miles and have the transmission (which in mine is sealed), cleaned and overhauled. This ran me $109 and it is zooming on to the freeway now just like the commercial zoom zoom zoom!
  • cheriwaycheriway Member Posts: 4
    Thanks, I'll ask my mechanic to check this if they haven't already and see. I'm really not ready for a new car, but I'm also worried about getting stranded. I would have thought this was something obvious for them to check though when I explained what my car had been doing?
  • cheriwaycheriway Member Posts: 4
    Thanks, I definitely would like this car to make it to 200 or 300,000. I'm at 150,000 right now, so having the transmission cleaned is probably overdue. I'll ask about that and the fuel filter Monday morning when I call to check on my car!
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Cheriway,

    Good luck. If you don't mind, We hope you will update us on the results... whether the fuel filter, or whatever else... solves your starting problem.
  • cheriwaycheriway Member Posts: 4
    I was not the fuel filter. The car wasn't chugging at all, it would just flat out die out of no where in the middle of waiting to turn or turning. My mechanic said it was definitely electrical and the only thing they ended up finding had to do with the turn signal switch. He doesn't know why this would have anything to do with cutting off the engine, but replacing it seems to have fixed the problem. I'll drive it around for a few days and post again to let you know if the fix seems to be permanent!

    Originally when they replaced the crank sensor, this fixed the problem for a solid week. I really think the electrical might fall apart and I'll keep having different problems.
  • janeo22janeo22 Member Posts: 18
    Wow! I'll make a note of this. I guess after reading all of these posts I'm thinking anything can happen with these cars. I hope you get to enjoy it again. Maybe a sensor or computer problem that led to this? I'm just guessing, so don't go by that or anything. I'm just a gal who likes to understand a car so I don't get took when it needs fixing! I did buy the Chilton's book on this car so I can look up items that are simple enough for me to fix myself :>) Best of luck! Thanks for posting the outcome.
  • san12san12 Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem that I hope you can help with. I have a 2003 Alero that I have owned for about 8 months. Recently, I was driving on the interstate and the car stalled. Dash lights came on and the car restarted in a matter of seconds. Three days later, the car stalled again while I was making a right hand turn at a stop light. Dash lights came on again and the car totally died. I tried to restart the car. It turned over but would not start. I waited a few seconds and it started on the second try. Can anyone give me any ideas on what is causing this.
  • jondela004jondela004 Member Posts: 3
    Hello! First i want to say i have a 2002 pontiac sunfire with a 2.2ltr 16 valve ecotec engine! One day i went to start my car and heard a weird noise! I thought nothing of it and kept cranking my engine with no luck of it starting! I should have known by the sound of the cranking that it was not a strong healthy crank sound, it was more like a quick spinning crank with no restriction on the engine itself! After several hours of trouble shooting, checking spark, pressure of fuel pump etc... I came to a point to check for compression! I had no compression from either #1,#2#3. and #4 cylinder. So i removed the valve cover and to my horror i seen 6 broken rollers(rockers). What happened was the timing chain tentioner the one behind the engine in the head went bad and let the chain jump therefor knocking it all out of time and when the pistons came up the cam shafts where pushing the valves down, thus breaking two valve heads, and bending the other 14! the force behind the piston coming up and hitting the valves broke the rollers. Which in all is the reason for none compression! So i ripped down the head, Replaced all 16 valves $150.00 give or take, replaced the head gasket $55.00, Had to purchase a timing chain kit(chain tentioner, chain guide, chain tentioner arm, two cam sprockets, sprocket chain guide, chain, crank case sprocket) $250.00! New oil, filter, anti freeze, plugs, valve cover gasket, ten head bolts in all a little over $600.00! Now i took off the head and did the valves, put on the new head gasket torqued down the new head bolts resat the cam shafts, putting the journals back in the marked spots! installed the new cam sprokets, installed the new chain etc!! What i wont to tell everyone is make sure the timing marks are set correctly on the crank sprocket and both cam sprockets! The chain will be marked with 3 different colored links! First before installing the chain or anything else other then the head and "camshafts" set the engine to TDC Compression! the #1 cylinder is the first one on the passenger side of the vehicle to the left! Now with the spark plugs out set a long screw driver in #1 cylinder long enough so it wont fall in when turning the main crank case! The screw driver will be pushed up at its highest point telling you the cylinder is TDC! Now look at the crank sprocket it will have a little dot on it indicating the timing mark! The mark should and better be at the 5 o'clock position! with the engine at TDC slide the chain down from the top with the links facing out! install the Intake cam sprocket, loosen the 10mm journal bolts and turn the intake cam so the "INT" mark on the sprocket is at the 2 O'clock position! Now tighten down the journal bolts to torque specs. Now set the copper link on the intakes cam sprocket timing mark, Go under the car or on the side and set the other colored link to the mark on the crank sprocket, install the white chain tentioner guide so the chain doesn't move! Now go up top and set the exhaust cam shaft and cam sprocket with the timing mark marked "EXH" at the 10 O'clock position and the last mark on the chain on the mark on the sprocket!( note that the sprockets have off centered groves on them so they can only go on one way). Now fully tighten the cam sprocket bolts, journal bolts,, etc...!!! Once you have the chain set on time install the chain tentioner behind the engine! I suggest leaving off the crank case cover, only setting on the valve cover with two bolts and installing the coil pack with two bolts as well, a few bolts in the exhaust manifold, and all the bolts in the intake manifold, seat the fuel injector body with both bolts and hook up the lines, plug in the coil pack,, the fuel injector body! I only say this so in case of error you can quickly rip it back down if you need to! I installed everything on my first attempt and had to rip it back down again do to the new faulty cam sprocket that broke and bent the valves again! But if you are cocky enough and think you have it all set and ready to go then go ahead and install everything! Now with everything installed, or partially go ahead and crank it! It may take several attempts to achieve success! If you have any questions you need answered or have problems i will be glad to help!!!!
  • jondela004jondela004 Member Posts: 3
    Sounds to me like a bad fuel pump! or Clogged fuel filter!
  • janeo22janeo22 Member Posts: 18
    When mine did this, the battery and the alternator needing replacing. I bought a pretty expensive battery, recommended lifetime warranty battery by Tires Plus here in Minnesota. It happened to my 2003Alero at about 70,000 miles. I'm at 91,000 now and it is still running. Sometimes it has a hot smell, but the temp. gauge is not reading hot, so I'm not sure what that is about, will have it checked the next time I get an oil change. Bring it is for analysis, if you can. It is no fun being stranded, that's for sure.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Is it hard to get access to the timing chain tensioner? I would like to examine mine to see if it is doing OK. A little preventive maintenance can save a wheelbarrow full of money.

    Dick B.
  • jondela004jondela004 Member Posts: 3
    No not at all! It's located on the passenger side of the car! It's on the exhaust side of the head! Its a bolt head that i believe if i remember right it's 1 1/2 inch tool to remove it! Be careful taking it out though! It's a possibility it might fall apart, pull it out slow after you unscrew it! Tell me if this helps!!
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    That information Does help. Unfortunately, I won't get around to actually checking it until the weather is a bit warmer.... around May or so.
    Thanks.
    Dick
  • altalbertaaltalberta Member Posts: 2
    Fially solved after 18 Month's of grief. Yes I have been through most of you fellow Bloggers have been through. Five car tows, several visits to an array of repair shops, huge amounts of frustration and dollars. But at last a solution. During last weeks visit to the shop, to try my latest & last try before buying another car. Which was to try switching out the computer ignition module, to see if that was the problem, it was not. But while it was in the shop, they could not start the car either. In the pursuing trobleshooting, they pulled out the ignition Switch unit to inspect it. Upon which the problem bacame evident. The ignition switch when turned operates some leaf switches in the unit. One of which is required to make to allow the start permissives to be checked. This switch had burnt & pitted over time & intermittently did not make proper contact. After replacing the unit last week the car has started 100% not even a hesitaion. Maybe this is not every ones solution. But having seen the condition of the switches, it could very well be the common cause. Good luck on yours, from one relieved owner. Thanks Al. Taylor. Canada
  • oldsman1907oldsman1907 Member Posts: 7
    You will never believe it!!! Another mechanic said, since the trac off,security light, and the RPM's jump up & down while going down the hwy....it has to do with my torque convert in the transmission. I think a bad silinoid switch. I'll know by sat. AM
  • netski56netski56 Member Posts: 7
    Did that also fix the stalling out problems when driving? My car just cuts out when driving - also sometimes doesn't want to start but eventually will start. It also has the horn go off at random times even sitting in the driveway. a mechanic friend also mentioned it may be the ignition switch or someone put in an aftermarket security system. Hopefully he will have the time to check it out but I was just wondering it it stopped the cut out problem when driving. thanks. Oh by the way its 2003 alero and everything else seems to be ok. it has 112,000 miles on it.
  • bluejack010bluejack010 Member Posts: 1
    I Tried this concept and It WORKED! in the first 10mins the security light went out and the car started right up! I wish I could have found the solution earlier. I have had this problem several times before and it has cost me plenty at the repair shop and towing. I think I might have been raked by several service people who took avantage of this simple fix! But now I Know what to do if it happens again. Thank-You!
  • janeo22janeo22 Member Posts: 18
    Simpler than that, is to never have to wait 10 minutes by simply going very slowly when you put your key in. Pause at the ACC switch on the ignition with your key as your guide, and then it will start EVERY time. I have been doing this for about 50,000 miles and it is working EVERY time. A mechanic friend told me to try this after I had the ignition replaced and was still having problems. This may not seem to you to be a fix, but if the car becomes dependable because I have to be a little patient, (no more than 20 seconds), then that is fine with me. Good luck! :surprise:
  • an2gan2g Member Posts: 1
    I am having a hard time finding your website that discusses how to remove the kick panel could you please give me the link?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    On my website, I don't exactly describe how to remove the kick panel, but it's held in place by two fasteners. There is a hex-head screw about 2 1/2 inches below and slight to the left of the left corner of the glove box. On the other end of the kick panel, just below the right corner of the glove box is one of those panel fasteners that simply pop out when you pull on the center. Remove those two fasteners, and you can then remove the kick panel, revealing the BCM, hanging from a bracket.

    The website URL is: http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm
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