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Oldsmobile Alero Starting-Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • netski56netski56 Member Posts: 7
    We had this car for about 2 months and it randomly just cuts out when driving - no warning it just shuts off. It does start right back up though so it's not a security issue. My mechanic said next time it does it to go to auto zone which we did and there were no codes indicating anything was wrong. We bought this car for our teenage daughter and obviously don't want her to drive it with this happening. Any suggestions? Otherwise we love the car and would hate to sell it. I've tried having nothing on the key ring, better gas - that did not work.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Fuel Delivery - Replace Fuel Filter, Check Fuel pressure
    Spark - Have it tuned up... new spark plugs
    If neither of these cures your problems, it could be an ignition module, loose connection to ighition switch, ignition switch, or fuel pump.

    If it's low mileage, that's a nice car. Have it fixed and keep it.
  • appellofappellof Member Posts: 54
    Okay It has been awhile since I posted anything here. The only time there will be readable codes is when the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" indicator light is on. So, there is no prior indication (i.e. Engine surgeing, loss of horse power from the engine, rough idleing, etc.) before the engine quits. There are only a few things that will cause this without the sensors throwing errors to the computer.

    1) Loss of fuel pressure to the injectors. Cause, Intermittent fuel pump power due to faulty fuel pump relay.
    2) Too much fuel pressure to the injectors. Cause, A failing fuel pressure regulator.
    3) Loss of 12 Volts to the ignition module. Cause, Intermittent Ignition switch contacts.
    4) Failure of the ignition module due to heat. Cause, Heat sink compound deteriorated and not pulling heat from module.
    5) Failing ignition coils. Cause old age.
    6) Clogged fuel filter. Cause, Debris from Fuel tank clogging output of filter.

    These are the first things that come to mind. Now, if you throw enough money at the car, it will fix itself. They put 2 types of engines in the Alero.
    A V-6 or a 4 cylinder. If you have a 4 Cylinder engine, there will not be a test port (Referred to as a Schrader Valve) for a fuel pressure test guage.
    Your machanic will have to install one for the test. Since the car is a 2003 model, and you only had it for 2 months, I would replace the fuel pump relay by default. You don't know the history of the relay. Your machanic should have the test equipment to test the ignition module. If not, Auto Zone or O'reillys auto parts should be able to test the module. The fuel pressure regulator is a problem. I go through 1 regulator a year. I have a 2000 Alero. I really love it. The Ignition switch is a complicated thing to try to diagnose. Does your Alero have electric door locks? The answer will spawn my next reply. The coils can partially fail meaning they will work for alittle bit but fail due to over heating. If you decide to replace the coils, I recommend replacing all of them at the same time. The fuel filter should be replaced every 80 to 100 thousand miles. That too should be replaced by default, since you really don't know the history.

    This is just my 2 cents worth. I have dealt with these issues for the past 2 years on my Alero.

    Daniel
  • netski56netski56 Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for all the info I printed this and will talk to my mechanic about this. I forgot to mention there is an after market security system that was installed in the car. It is disengaged but is still in the car and from what I have heard it could still be wired and causing problems. Do you think it would be worth it to bring it to a place where they install these and have them take it out? One place said they would do it for about 40.00.

    Thanks!

    Annette
  • janeo22janeo22 Member Posts: 18
    You're welcome. This is a good place for information on this car. I have found lot's of useful information. My mechanic friend says yes, have them take in out. Any loose wires can cause big problems with your electrical system. Have them check and make sure there is not loose that should be connected because of this being installed in the car.
  • appellofappellof Member Posts: 54
    Annette,

    I would highly recommend that you have the after market security system professionally removed. Any time the electrical system of any vehicle
    after 1990 has been altered, it has a tendency of messing it up. I know you will not be able to make sure that they do it correctly so PLEASE make sure that the place you take it to is a reputible company. $40.00 is a very good price. Let me know how it works out.

    Thanks,

    Daniel
  • lsmithelsmithe Member Posts: 1
    Please let me know if you end up finding out what is wrong with this car. Mine has been doing the stalling thing while driving down the road for about two months now. My car also won't start Unless my Service Engine Soon light is on, which allows my gas pump to prime. I really shouldn't be driving the car, but I can't afford a new one right now. I also can't afford multiple random repair bills. I have talked to a few mechanics and even the dealership shops and they keep saying they don't know what is wrong. I have a 2001 Alero SE with a V6.
  • treduce1975treduce1975 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 oldsmobile alero and while driving the vehicle it will just cut off for no apparent reason. The vehicle starts up with no problem but after driving it for about fifteen or twenty minutes, it will just cut off. I have to turn the ignition about four or five times and it will start up again. Is there anyone out there that has had this problem because I don't know where to start. I was thinking that it might be the fuel filter or a circuit that is causing the problem but I am not sure. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    If you have the original fuel filter in the vehicle, that is the most likely cause of your problem.
    The fuel pump may giving you problems
    You may have wiring issues, or a faulty ignition switch. (not likely)

    You probably don't have a bad coil or bad ignition module. If you did, you would most likely lose spark to only two of your four cylinders, since there are two coils and ignition circuits, a feature built into GM cars to prevent walk-homes. (thank you GM)

    Good luck. If you have a service manual, just follow the troubleshooting procedure in the book.

    dick B
  • janeo22janeo22 Member Posts: 18
    My 2003 did this when it needed a new alternator. It also did it once when the battery needed replacing. I bought a new lifetime warranteed battery at Tires Plus (it's guaranteed). Look for coupons and you could pay around $50 for one. Also, check your plugs and wires.
  • netski56netski56 Member Posts: 7
    We ended up taking out the after market security system and also the mechanic noticed the battery cables were a little loose and he tightened them. Knock on wood it has not stalled out since. Not sure which problem it was but those are the two things he did and like I said it seems ok now. Thanks to everyone who responded and the mechanic did say after market security systems can cause alot of problems.
  • rsellarsrsellars Member Posts: 2
    I have a 3.1 litre 2004 alero. It has been driving just fine until lunch time today, when I tried to leave work. The motor is turning over, it just doesn't start. I got it to run for a brief few seconds, and it was running very rough, and the idle was surging up and down, until it ultimately died, and won't start back up. It acts like it is out of gas, but there is a quarter of a tank, and I am not on an incline of any kind. I checked all plug wires, and have within the last six months replaced all plugs and wires. Any ideas or advise would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Randall Sellars
  • appellofappellof Member Posts: 54
    Randall,

    I have had the same experience. After looking at my log book, I found that the fuel pressure regulator failed. When you mentioned engine running rough and surging it brought back memories. Of course Mine failed, as did yours, at work. The way I determined my regulator had failed was, I pulled the vacuum hose off the top of it. Then I turned the key "ON". DO NOT TRY TO START IT. Just turn the key on and watch for any fuel comming out of the top of the regulator where the vacuum hose was. If there is a stream of fuel shooting out, then the regulator has failed and too much fuel is getting to the spark plugs and therefore causing the engine to run rough and surge and quit.

    Just my .02 cents worth.

    Daniel
  • rsellarsrsellars Member Posts: 2
    Daniel,
    I wanted to thank you for your input on my car starting issues. You hit the nail on the head, and the fuel pressure regulator was the problem, and after replacing it, my car runs great. You really did save my butt, because I am on a very tight budget, and I didn't have the money to have it towed, or to go to a shop. I found the part at autozone for about fifty bucks with a one year warranty, and once I had replaced the part and started the car, it ran funny until the air was purged out of the lines, and now it runs like a champ. It was exactly as you said, I took the vacuum line off of the top of the regulator, and gas shot out, and after the replacement, it actually runs better than it did, I had noticed some loss of power, and now that is all in the past. Bless you, and thanks a million!!!

    Greatly Appreciated!!
    Randall Sellars
  • appellofappellof Member Posts: 54
    Randall,

    I am glad you got your car fixed. I can relate to being on a tight budget.
    I bought my 2000 Alero in August 2009 it had 101,000 miles on it when I bought it. I have had my rounds with it though. I have the Haynes repair manual for it. But my log book is thicker than the Haynes manual. I keep a log book because my memory isn't as good as it was years ago.

    I am glad I was able to help.

    Daniel
  • clbzippoclbzippo Member Posts: 1
    :sick: i heard if disconnected the battery and you pull the radio out and look in the left corner you will see wires that do not go to the radio open the wire wrap and see if you find a yellow wire /black wire/ and red wire cut the yellow wire . take the black wire and cut the plastic wire covering off of it but don't cut the wires and then take the yellow wire and tie it into the black wire b4 you put everything back together connect your batter and wait 10 min's and then try to start the car the Ignition disable should be disconnected :)
  • jille57jille57 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Alero which has been running great. The only issue I have with it, is that over the past year, periodically it will not start. After thinking the problem had been resolved, out of the blue, it did not start again today. It is believed that the security code needs to be reset when this happens as the car thinks it is being stolen. Has anybody else experienced this problem?? If so, how did the problem get resolved, once and for all? Any suggestions would be gratefully accepted!! Thanks so much!
  • jille57jille57 Member Posts: 3
    I discovered the answer to my own problem!!! The answer is located on page 2-20 of the 2001Owner's Manual!! It is a LIFESAVER!! This problem is related to the PASSLOCK theft-deterrent system, and I quote:

    'During normal operation, the SECURITY light will go off in approximately five seconds after the ignition key is turned to ON and the engine is started.

    If the SECURITY light flashes with the key to ON, wait 10 minutes until the light goes off. Then turn the ignition to OFF before attempting to start the engine'.

    It is that easy! I know this is a very common problem! I tried this first thing this morning and it started immediately!! Hallelujah!! :-)

    I hope this helps... .

    All the best!
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    clbzippo and Jille57,
    The answer is a simple modification which you can do at home. You can follow the instructions at:
    http://bergerweb.net/AleroSecurity
    or..
    http://bergerweb.net/PasslockFix
    Either method will work. The second solution is for people who cannot solder.

    Dick Berger
    http://www.bergerweb.net
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I suggest you follow one of Dick's tutorials he put links to in his post if your able. Just resetting it won't make the problem go away. Usually it just gets more frequent as time goes on and becomes a nuisance.
  • jille57jille57 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks very much to you Dick Berger and burdawg for your help! I am getting this taken care of right away! Greatly appreciated!

    Rgds,
    Jille57
  • netski56netski56 Member Posts: 7
    OK I'm back again- When we bought the 2001 alero the horn would go off an keep blowing-we took it to a mechanic that said the aftermarket relay switch was the problem and took one off of a junk alero and it worked fine for the last few months than all of a sudden I get a call from a neighbor after a weekend away that said the horn was blaring and wouldn't go off. Well I guess it finally did by blowing the fuse. Of course now the horn doesn't work w/o the fuse but we don't want to put it back for it to happen again.

    Does anyone out there have an idea of what else would cause this? Thanks
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    The most likely problem is a short in your horn button, but even if the horn button itself isn't the problem, there is probably something in the steering wheel or steering column that is causing your horn to go off unexpectedly. Your Alero should be similar to my '02 Grand Am. You'll find a wiring diagram of the horn circuit at:
    http://www.bergerweb.net/graphics/HornCircuit.gif
    It's a pretty simple circuit. You should be able to find where the horn wiring is shorted to ground.
    The only other possibility is a problem in the Body Control Module. Try cutting the black wire that goes into Connector C1, pin A4 of the Body Control Module (behind the kick panel on the passenger side of the car, just underneath the glove box. two fasteners hold the kick panel in place) If that doesn't solve your problem, you can always splice the wire back together.

    The problem is not likely in the Body Control Module, since it is not active when the ignition is off. (Not likely it would have gone off while you were away on vacation.)
  • jille58jille58 Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 Alero was worked on by my mechanic to disconnect the Passlock Security system and instead of fixing it, he now cannot get the radio to start, nor can they even start up the car. I was planning to take it on holidays on Monday, but obviously that will no longer be happening. Nobody knows what to do. Please if you have any solutions to this mess, I would really appreciate your input!!?? AAAGGGHHH!!

    Thanks in advance!!

    Rgds,

    Jille 57 (58)
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    edited August 2011
    Jille58,
    Sorry for your bad luck.
    The passlock system is the same for all Alero's from 1999-2004. Have your mechanic go the link "2003 Oldsmobile Alero Passlock Repair" on my website at http://www.bergerweb.net and follow the instructions to the letter.

    If the radio is locked, it's because the mechanic removed it while the battery was connected. This only happens on rare occasions, but to get it working again, you will have to take your car to a Chevrolet Dealer, have them connect the Tech II scan tool to the vehicle, and unlock the radio. This should cost about $25. (more expensive at a Buick or Cadillac Dealer)

    If the radio was working before the mechanic removed it, you should get him to pony up the $25.00 to have it re-activated.

    Dick B
  • iiicolliesiiicollies Member Posts: 1
    burdawg

    I'm experiencing a related problem with my 2004 Alero. It's still starting and it hasn't stalled yet, though sometimes I feel the engine's power cutting off for a fraction of a second. What is happening is loss of power to my automatic headlights, radio, ventilation and power windows. It started about a month or so ago showing up just in my radio and windows, now the wider failure is occurring more frequently. One thing that is interesting - this only happens in the morning when I start up the car, not yet in the afternoon commute. The only variation was when I drove it in the morning to the gas station. It was fine in the one mile trip but failed when I restarted. My headlights and dashboard lights go on when I switch on manual lights but my radio and instruments are still out. So far, if I drive for another mile or two, everything starts working again, except sometimes my power windows. Concurrent to this problem has been a tendency for the cruise control to kick itself off seconds after activating. Then I can't restart it until the next trip. I'm wondering if the electrical problems are related. My biggest worry is that my car may start stalling as some of the others on this forum. Hope you answer me soon, I have a Saturday appt at the local Chevy place. Thanks
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Trace through the wiring diagram for your car (in the service manual) and see which circuits have an effect on the items you mentioned. Find the common component, and replace it. If you aren't good at tracing electrical circuits, find a mechanic who is. It shouldn't take long to determine the most likely culprit. A good first guess is that the connector between the wiring harness and your ignition switch is loose, corroded, or has some broken wires going to it. You're going to have to dig into your dash to check on that.
    Dick Berger
    http://www.bergerweb.net
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I have to second Dick's recommendation. These electrical intermittents can be very difficult to find. I usually gravitate to the ignition switch first, since it has mechanical contacts that do wear over time. Also, it's been reported that having to much weight on your keyring can cause premature wear of the ignition switch. I had a Ford Taurus once that did the very thing you describe, and when it occured simply pulling over, shutting it off and restarting it would take care of it. Changing out the ignition switch took care of it.
    Your comment that it's fine in the afternoon but a problem in the morning leads me to wonder if it's a mechanical connection problem due to temperature, i.e. a electrical contact that is expanding/contracting due to the ambient temperature (cooler in the morning, warmer as the day goes on). Just a possibility, we see that often in the aerospace world.
  • janeo22janeo22 Member Posts: 18
    I have created the habit of keeping my key in my middle council. I take the remote everywhere with me, but I only use the one key to start and drive the car. I had the mechanic who replace the ignition components the 2nd time (while still under warranty) give this advice, and the car has not had a repeat issue with this repetitive problem since 70,000 miles. I'm currently at 103,000. This car is still fun, it is just a big baby :>D
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Concurrent to this problem has been a tendency for the cruise control to kick itself off seconds after activating. Then I can't restart it until the next trip. I'm wondering if the electrical problems are related.

    This could be related to a sticky Park Brake Cable or lever. If the Park Brake Switch (which activates the "Brake" light on the dash) gets even the slightest momentary contact, it will cause cruise control to shut off. The cruise control can also kick itself off if the level of brake fluid in the reservoir is too low, also causing the brake light to blink on intermittently from vibration. Make sure your brake fluid reservoir is full, and check to make sure your brake light goes out with still some free play left in your park-brake lever.
  • rockyb35rockyb35 Member Posts: 4
    I had a similar problem with my 2003 alero. I found that the contacts in the ignition switch were dirty. I removed the switch, which you access it by removing your instrument cluster, then I was abble to disassemble it on the bench and cleaned the contacts. The replacement switch runs about $100 at most autoparts stores, But it was fairly simple to repair it. The problem has not come back after over a year of driving.
  • rockyb35rockyb35 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2003 Alero, the car runs fine, but shakes real bad when in gear,stopped at idle, especially after the car is warmed up or on a hot day. I have done a basic tune up with plugs, fuel filter and air filter. I have also replaced the tps. Any thought?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    How many miles on your engine, and which engine is it? Stick or automatic? This would be helpful information.
    Also, when in neutral, what is the engine rpm? (If less than 800rpm, it could be a sticky Idle Air Control.)
    Are there any trouble codes stored in your PCM?

    Dick B
  • altalbertaaltalberta Member Posts: 2
    Please read blog # 350 by altalberta. After struggling for 18 months going through all thie issues described in all of these blogs. the answer to them all was replace the ignition switch. It has leaf switches at the back of the ignition barrel that burn or wear out over time. These switches have to be making contact to enable all the permissives. Including the security pass. The ignition switch & changeout cost me somewhere in the $275 range. Yours altalberta.
  • appellofappellof Member Posts: 54
    All,

    I agree with altalberta about the ignition switch. I have made several posts about replacing or cleaning the ignition switch. It usually wears out first because of the heavy use it gets on a daily basis. Also, I think that maybe Oldsmobile got a lot of bad switches form the manufacturer when they built the alero. Also, it does not take much dirt to get in there and cause the contacts to wear out faster. Especially since thay are waffer switches. I have yet to replace mine. My alero will start only if the temperature is above 50 degrees. On cold mornings, I have to use a hair drier to heat it up before I can start the car.

    Daniel
  • samuel15samuel15 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 alero with 107000 miles. When I use the turn signals they suddenly blink irregularly and the car stalls. I'm not sure what to do. Also it has trouble starting at times, especially when it rains.. Believe it or not. Any suggestions?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    I have a feeling the two problems are not related. I can't help you with the stalling problem, except the usual advise.... check your fuel filter.

    On the subject of the turn signals, you might find this link helpful
    How to Fix Alero Turn Signals

    Dick B
  • dwight8dwight8 Member Posts: 1
    Motor will start after ether injection. Then it runs fine. It will start then for a few days, but then returns to not starting without ether. Replaced crank and cam sensors. Replaced and flashed ECM. Fuel pressure is fine. Spark plugs fine. Injectors fine. Wondering if this is a PCM problem, and if so, why?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    How many miles on this vehicle? I suspect you have low compression. That would be the next thing to check. Does it refuse to start after sitting for an extended period, or does it happen if only sitting overnight? It could be that you lose compression after your lubricant gravitates down into the crankcase.
    That's the only thing I can think of.
    Dick B
  • netski56netski56 Member Posts: 7
    OK I'm back again- after going since July with no problems the car is stalling out while driving again -it's basically the same thing as before except before it would stall and start back up and keep driving - now it stalls and now we have to wait a few minutes b4 it will restart and when it does it keeps stalling out. It did finally start and stay running thankfully my daughter made it home. Again it's random but does seem to be getting worse.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Wait, Wait.....
    On your last post, you said the horn was going off. That's not basically the same as your current problem, which is the car stalling out while driving, so let's work on getting it to stop stalling.
    1. tune up, including replacing the spark plugs.
    2. Replace the fuel filter
    3. Check the fuel pressure

    My money is on the fuel filter, but you may have a weak fuel pump. If you haven't had a tune-up, spark plugs could be fouled, causing stalling while at idle.
  • morgan71morgan71 Member Posts: 25
    Hello,

    I could really use someone's help. My wife has a 2000 olds alero with 218,000 miles that we have spent a whole lot of money on to keep it goin. The latest issue is that one day she drove the car and it ran fine. She made a few stops i.e the store, kids school...and when she came back to the car it wouldnt start. It would crank and turn over but no start. We towed it to our mechanic and he told us it was the ignition switch which I found to be a lil odd. He said it started for him but the switch was sticking a bit. We went and got the car, let it sit a few days and it started for a whole week. She finally drove it 5 mins away to the store, came back and it would not start again. I checked the fuel rail and it appeared that it wasnt getting any gas so I checked the fuel pump by turning the ignition key to the on position to see if I could hear it and i didnt. So I checked the fuel pump fuse under the hood and it seemed ok so we took it back and had the fuel pump replaced. Our mech told us it started up so we went back to pick it up. She drove it for 3 days and it was starting with no problem...and now its doing it again! We are at our wits end...any ideas, advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Can it really be the ignition switch that is preventing it from starting?

    Thanks in advance.

    Dee
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Dee,
    When the car will not start, is the "SECURITY" light blinking? Is it on solid?
    If the answer to these two questions is "NO", replace your fuel filter. (at this mileage, you should have already replaced it three or four times)
    If the "SECURITY" light is lit, refer to the instructions on my website at...
    Bergerweb.net
    There are three methods of bypassing the Passlock system. Use the one that seems best for you.
  • mdatkins71mdatkins71 Member Posts: 2
    I still own some money on this car and now it won't start. It will crank over but it won"t start. There are no security lights on or anything on the dash. I hear the fuel pump hummm at key in on position. I pushed in the sharder value in the engine and fuel can out so I believe it is getting gas. It has 1/4 in the tank. It does has made a funny noise when trying to start it. It sounds like the starter when u try to start a car that is already running. Yesterday it sounded like it was about to start and then the noise and nothing. It did that twice and then just turned over but no start. I have had the filter replaced and cleaners put in the tank and in the engine about 4000 miles ago. What should I be looking for to fix this. Please HELP.
  • mdatkins71mdatkins71 Member Posts: 2
    It was the security light. I had not notice it before. I did want a lady said that was in the book about the security and waited a few mins. before starting it and rumm it started. Its in the owners manual
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Follow the link on post 399
  • pilchermtpilchermt Member Posts: 1
    I'm working on 2003 Alero that I just replace the whole front core support on. I was able to start and drive the crashed car into the garage before I tore it down and fixed the body. The only wiring I touched was the string for the headlights, radiator fans and coolant bottle. and they were not cut or damaged in anyway due to the accident. After measuring up the front end, and welding the new front end on with no battery in the car so no electronics should have been cooked from the welding; I reassebled the car and put all the new sheet metal on. I ground the battery and the engine to the old ground locations next to the battery. and everything should be plugged in correctly. I got in the car turned it to the on position and all the lights and horn worked like they were supposed to, no security light, no check bulb light, the fuel pump primed the system and it was ready to go like it should. Everything looks correct, I then proceed to start the car, and I get nothing only the click from the relay for the headlights turing on and off. all of the lights go out on the dash and headlights go out. I used a test light to determine if I was getting power to the signal wire on the starter silinoid, and I am NOT. So I began checking everything in the system.
    I have RESET the security multiple times even though no security light shows up. with no change in the condition of the car
    I have checked all of the fuses and cables including fallowing them to the neutral position switch, fuse box, relays, switching relays around to see if there is a change, and there is none.
    I have by-passed the relay and the starter Cranks so the starter is still good.
    I have used a test light on the crank fuse, and when the key turns to the start position the crank(10A) fuse lights up and works.
    I have switched batteries and put chargers on them to make sure I have good battery power.
    I have put the car in neutral and all other positions and still the starter doesn't crank.
    I have hooked up a code reader and the reader would not connect to the car/ would not recognize a connection. ( I dont know why?)
    I did notice the radio said calibration on it but I'm not sure what that is trying to tell me.

    I'm Out of ideas and need help, I find it hard to believe that the ignition went bad and I need a new tumbler and set of keys when their has never been a problem.

    PLEASE HELP!!
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    From your description, I would guess one of three things are causing your problem.
    1. Broken wire in the control circuity, caused by the original crash.
    2. Park/Neutral Switch not engaged properly. (must be in park/Neutral to start)
    3. Clutch Switch not engaged. (clutch must be depressed to start)
    Here is a wiring diagram of my 2002 Grand Am, which should be very close to what you have. I hope it helps.
    image
    You can left click on the image and choose "view image" to get a bigger view.
    Dick B
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Sorry, What I meant was you can "RIGHT CLICK" on the image in the previous message and choose "View Image" to see a larger view.
  • erikoldserikolds Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2011
    Car has had problems starting for a couple weeks. Usually have to give it a little gas to start. Car started and got me to class, I got in the car to go to work and it wouldn't start. The battery is good and had terminals and wires replaced a week ago. When trying to start it, it made almost a dry quiet clicking and sort of a hiss. Tried to hit the starter with a hammer with no luck( did get some sparks) but nothing. Now car battery is slowly dying. Tried to jump the car but still no turnover, same starting sounds.No security light but the check engine light has been on since I bought it. It's supposed to snow bad here tomorrow. I have 2 small children and would like to get this figured out and don't have much money right now so I'm hoping its nothing too bad! Please help.
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