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Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

1…9192949697

Comments

  • connorwingconnorwing Member Posts: 3
    i did not, however i did end up getting some from my mechanic. if there are some out on the market though it would be good to know in the future. thanks
  • abutomaabutoma Member Posts: 21
    Strange! But it obviously is a thermo problem. It is a diesel engine som that is the reason why it is running. Not starting ? Well, does that mean the engine imobilizer does not permit you to start? Or is it cranking but not starting? When you stop it and then immediately restart, does it fire then ? or is it completely dead?
    If you will answer these questions and perhaps give as much info as possible, I might have some ideas where to start.
    Let's hear :sick:
  • landroverblowslandroverblows Member Posts: 12
    OK I have a 2003 Disco SE7.... I have a possible case of the 5 amigos.... Warning lights are:

    1. brake - in red letters
    2. abs
    3. hillscent decline
    4. traction control
    5. service engine soon

    i hear that i likely have an issue with my ABS modulator... i called dealership and service told me $3,000 but i found a modulator on ebay... is this a good purchase to fix my Disco?... is that an [non-permissible content removed]-reaming price or am i crazy?... can i fix this myself?...

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Land-Rover-discovery-99-04-II-ABS-Modulator-p- ump_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a12Q7c66Q3a2Q7c39Q3a1Q7c72Q3a317Q7c293Q3a1Q7- c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem41474f6dbdQQitemZ280369262013QQptZ- MotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

    I also found this on how to change it but is this possible for someone with little experience doing?... what is a fair price from a dealer to fix this?....

    and the "service engine soon" light is a solid orange that came on after those other 4 did... it flashes intermittently when i go uphills mostly... this can happen at 20 mph, 40, or 80... when this happens, my car will simultaneously start to jerk, epicenter seemingly near the front (engine)... at times it seems like it doesn't have enough rpm's to stabilize for the uphill climb... is this related to the hillscent decline light?... or is the hillscent decline light related to the ABS modulator/bad valves?... or all of the above??!
  • landroverblowslandroverblows Member Posts: 12
    one of my visor's grasping clips broke off and now i can't clip the sunroof visor to a "covered" position.... does anyone know where i can find one of these clips?... any idea of price?....
  • landroverblowslandroverblows Member Posts: 12
    DO NOT buy this car... It is not a well made machine... I have a 2003 SE7 Disco 2 and it has some oddities in regards to control placement... I figured that out though... It's a British car and so the controls were designed to be used by a driver on the right side...

    A lot of people have complained about "the 3 amigos", a series of lights that require an ABS modulator pump and/or wheelspeed sensor to be replaced... Dealers are quoting up to $3,000 + to fix this but here's an ebay NEW part if you can fix it yourself....

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Land-Rover-discovery-99-04-II-ABS-Modulator-p- ump_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a12Q7c66Q3a2Q7c39Q3a1Q7c72Q3a317Q7c293Q3a1Q7- c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem41474f6dbdQQitemZ280369262013QQptZ- MotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories.....

    I'm also having a problem with engine misfires... I think this can be fixed by changing the spark plugs...
  • intensityderenintensityderen Member Posts: 22
    Modulator MUST be new and sealed (I bought mine on ebay too). Used is useless. It took the dealer 2 days to install it and get it working correctly. Imagine trying to do it yourself. It is SO ridiculous that there has not been a recall or warranty extension on such a problem part. They have been failing regularly since the series II was introduced in 1999!
  • heyomarheyomar Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2000 Disco. The last time my three amigo lights (Hill Descent, ABS, TC) went on, I didn't do anything about it for about six months. Besides knowing that I didn't have ABS stopping power, I didn't effect my daily driving.

    The jerking problem you describe isn't related to Hill Descent.

    I know there's not one in every city, but find yourself a non-dealership Land Rover specialist. It's saved me a bunch over the years.

    $3000 seems ridiculously high.
  • osunboroosunboro Member Posts: 1
    I GOT MY 2004 DISCOVERY 2 WITH 39,000 MILES AFTER IT HAD A FRONTAL COLLISION, WHICH I FIXED. AFTER I GOT IT TO AFRICA, THE REVERSE GEAR BEGAN TO FAIL. WHEN IT WONT MOVE ON REVERSE, I HAVE TO SWITCH IT ON AND OFF MANY TIMES, AND THEN, SOMETIMES, WOULD WORK, OTHER TIMES, WOULD NOT OPERATE ON REVERSE. BUT ALL FRONT GEARS WORK PERFECT. SOME MECHANIC DROPPED THE TRANSMISSION, SAID THERE WERE METAL FILINGS, INSIDE, AND REPLACED SOME GASKETS, BUT THE PROBLEM CONTINUES. SOMEONE HOOKED IT ON A PORTABLE SCANNER, NOT SURE ITS A LANDROVER SCANNER, HE SAID ITS A TRANSMISSION PROBLEM. I SUSPECT ITS ELECTRICAL, OR ELECTRONIC. BUT YOU CAN HELP ME WITH A BETTER ANSWER, I BELIEVE. WHEN THE PROBLEM OCCURS, IT TRIGGERS THE CHECK ENGINE AND A SECOND RED LIGHT ON THE DASHBOARD. THANKS.
  • discoii01discoii01 Member Posts: 4
    I understand that the 2001 has an electronically controlled transmission. Yesterday a radiator hose hooked to a small plastic cansiter on the right side of the radiator popped off and sent anti-freeze spewing throughout the engine compartment. Luckily, I was at a hardware store when it occurred. I replaced the hose clamp and refilled it with antifreeze.

    To my shock and surprise, when I left the store onto the road, my transmission would not shift properly and I was attaining 3000 or so RPMs before it would finally downshift. By the time I reached home several miles away, the same thing started happening on the upshift, causing the rover to prematurely upshift at too high of speeds making it lurch as it upshifted and raising the RPMs too high.

    Is it possible that the antifreeze shorted something out having to do with the electronic transmission and if so, where do I look for the control module that controls the transmission? If the module is not located near where this hose popped off, what else could have been exposed to the antifreeze that would cause the transmission to act this way. I found it to be too great of a coincidence that the transmission worked fine until the hose blew off, so this is why I'm searching out this possibility first.

    thanks for any reply and assistance.

    Russell
  • landroverblowslandroverblows Member Posts: 12
    perhaps the spark plugs were shorted out by the anti-freeze (water and electricity don't mix) - approx $20 each at LR dealer only x 8 plus labor which ranges from $300 (non dealer) to $550 (LR dealer)
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    On my '96 Series I there's an ECU against the firewall on the passenger side. I removed my hood seals (that run along the fender lips to seal beneath the hood) and when I went through a car wash, it blasted enough water in under that lip that it soaked my ECU and the car wouldn't start. Yes, I have since replaced those seals, but I wonder if you don't have one or more ECUs in the same area, and they're soaked by the coolant? They're not hard to remove, then you remove the screws to open them up and dry them out.
  • discoii01discoii01 Member Posts: 4
    Okay, well with all due respect and appreciation for your reply, we need to think more along the lines of what's technically possible and relevant from the standpoint of the problem. The spark plugs do not produce electricity but rather merely convey it from the plug wire and coil to the fuel in the cylinders for ignition purposes and would not be damaged and need replacement due to exposure to water. So we won't be spending $300-$500 for that maneuver. As for water and electricity not "mixing," they mix all too well by contradiction to your claim and water is an extremely good conductor of electricity. Hence, the reason that electrocution can occur when electricity is "mixed" with water. You know what I mean here, like spraying your house's electrical panel with the water hose. That's about the best "mix" you could obtain when trying to demonstrate the collusive nature between water and electricity. I suppose you meant to express that water or antifreeze in this instance could possibly interfere with the electrical conductivity associated with the plugs. Regardless, it's unrelated to my problem.

    Again, the trouble here is the transmission and the ECU which controls it. I was simply trying to determine whether the antifreeze could have caused damage or interference to the ECU and whether anyone has experienced a similar problem.

    Again, thank you for you reply.
  • tripledbuckstripledbucks Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 discover 11 it will crank fine but once it gets hot it will shut off. It will not crank back up for about twenty minutes.
  • pstantonpstanton Member Posts: 2
    I was driving my 99 Discovery II and all of a sudden the ABS/Hill Descent/Traction Control warning lights (3 separate lights) came on. The tuck seems to be running fine. The lights have stayed illuminated. Does anyone know what caused this?
  • discoii01discoii01 Member Posts: 4
    The lights are simultaneous because all of these functions are interrelated. On most occasions, it is typically one of the ABS sensors on the calipers that initiates the sequence. You can have someone with an OBD reader which can reach deep enough into the system reset the warnings. If an error code appears, then you'll naturally need to have the part responsible replaced. On some occasions, the warning is tripped by an unusual pattern associated with the ABS while riding over especially rough terrain. Subsequently, re-setting the warning system is all that is necessary in these instances.
  • drawlingsdrawlings Member Posts: 11
    This is such a common problem, it's been given the name the "3 Amigos". Below is a reprint of an excellent discussion posted several years back by JE Robison Service Company, Inc. I have the same year disco as you and finally gave up and just put up with the 3Amigos being lit all the time.

    One of the most common ABS questions I hear is, Why do I see the ABS, Traction Control, and Hill Descent lights coming on?

    All three of those systems share a common set of core components. The wheel speed sensors, the hubs, the modulator, the controller, and other parts serve all three systems. So a fault in any one of them will cause a problem in the other two. It is actually rare to have a fault that would only disable one of the three systems. 99% of the time, if one is affected, they all are.

    To see what's wrong you will need to connect a Land Rover test system and read the faults. These systems are not OBD II compatible, so a generic scanner won't talk to them. At Robison Service, we use the T4 or Autologic tools for this work.

    The most common faults are wheel speed sensor faults. The wheel speed sensors in a Land Rover are coils that sense the motion of a toothed wheel that's a part of the wheel hub. The rotation of the wheel induces a sine wave signal in the sensor whose frequency is proportional to the speed, and whose amplitude increases with speed from 0.5 volts to more than 5 volts.

    If your Rover has a speed sensor fault, there are two paths to repair. The first is to replace the entire hub on the affected corner. This is the approach favored by dealers because the toothed wheel — called a reluctor ring — and the actual sensor are both part of the hub. The reluctor can get damaged by rust or corrosion, and it can also get damaged by a bad wheel bearing. The only way to service it is to change the hub.

    As of this writing, hubs cost around $400 and take about three hours to change.

    The sensor can be removed from the hub fairly easily. If you remove your sensor and look inside you should be able to see if the reluctor ring is damaged. The reluctor ring can get damaged if the wheel bearing gets loose. It can also get damaged by corrosion. That's especially true for Rovers that run on beaches. If you see reluctor ring damage, or corrosion, or if the hub has any free play at all - you need a complete assembly. If there is no damage, you may be able to fix the vehicle by changing the sensor alone, a $100 part that's less than an hour to swap.

    The path you choose should be determined by examination of the reluctor via the sensor hole. If the hub looks good you have at least 8 or 10 odds that a sensor alone will fix your problem.

    Every now and then you will see a Rover that has wiring problems, usually at the connector between ABS sensor and body. Always pull that apart and look for corrosion.

    The next common fault in these systems is called shuttle valve failure. The shuttle valve is a part of the brake modulator — that big thing in the location where a master cylinder would be. The modulator incorporates the functions of ABS servo and brake master cylinder into one unit.

    If you have shuttle valve problems, you will see the three warning lights on the dash and there will be one or more stored faults for shuttle valve failure. Land Rover has a test procedure to determine if these faults result from a failure in the modulator or if they are caused by wiring troubles in the ABS harness or grounds. Unless you have corroded grounds and cables your trouble is probably in the modulator.

    Until now, this problem was addressed by replacement of the brake modulator. That's a $1,500 part. As you can imagine, shuttle valve failure produced a lot of unhappy owners and Land Rover finally listened up and developed a fix.

    As of March 2006, Land Rover sells a shuttle valve repair kit for under $100. You will have to remove the modulator and flip it over to install the valves on a workbench. Removal of the modulator, replacement of the valve, and refit to the vehicle takes 3 hours or so.

    This shuttle valve repair is a huge improvement over the former method of addressing this problem.

    The part number for the repair kit is SWO50030. If you buy it from a dealer you may also want to ask for the March 2006 bulletin that gives test and installation instructions.
  • pstantonpstanton Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the thorough info mate.
  • cpr3cpr3 Member Posts: 16
    Hey there-

    I have a 2004 Disco II and the 3 Amigos have been lighting up occasionally for about 4-5 months now ( perhaps twice a month if that). It seems to happened when braking hard or turning hard. I had the front brake done and all 4 shocks replaced in July.

    I brought this into a LR mechanic ( not a dealer) and he is saying that the modular needs to be replaced and is quoting me a price of about $1300.00. This seems a bit high given the fix that is posted above.

    Any insight/ advice is much appreciated -
  • landroverblowslandroverblows Member Posts: 12
    The 3 Amigos fix has been coming back to me at quotes ranging from $1500 - $3000 but I was told it was due to the ABS Modulator... This piece controls all 3 and is often the piece that needs to be fixed... However, I decided against it b/c I have seen several posts from disgruntled drivers stating that the "fix" only fixes the issue for a matter of days before they come back on again... Future attempts had dealers re-setting the codes to buy them another few days and then they tell you it needs other repairs to fix the issue.... These repairs haven't seemed to fix the problem either...

    I have heard that the 3 Amigos is not going to drastically effect the performance of the vehicle, perhaps unless you're doing extreme off-roading... This being said it's best to just leave them be if you can deal with the eyesore on your dashboard...
  • intensityderenintensityderen Member Posts: 22
    Usually the modulator alone is $1300 and then the labor intensive replacement and diagnostic work will run another $500-700. I replaced one on my 2000 disco for $2k.

    I would say until it breaks completely, you can keep what you've got. Remember that when the lights are on (and only when on) the shuttle valve inside is stuck and you have no ABS, Hill Descent or Traction Control functionality. My dealer said that sometimes you can do a controlled "hard brake" from about 30 mph and free the stuck shuttle valve. Land Rover should just admit fault on this widely defective part and institute a recall!
  • cpr3cpr3 Member Posts: 16
    Thanks for your responses - they're helpful, indeed. If I am understanding correctly, I am in no immeidate danger until they come on ans stay on - complete w/ the beep, correct?

    Also was this release mentioned by Robison ( As of March 2006, Land Rover sells a shuttle valve repair kit for under $100. You will have to remove the modulator and flip it over to install the valves on a workbench. Removal of the modulator, replacement of the valve, and refit to the vehicle takes 3 hours or so.
     
    This shuttle valve repair is a huge improvement over the former method of addressing this problem.
     
    The part number for the repair kit is SWO50030. If you buy it from a dealer you may also want to ask for the March 2006 bulletin that gives test and installation instructions.

    Was this put out by Landrover in response to this ubiquitos problem - rather than stating it is a recall?

    Thx again!
  • mepkepricemepkeprice Member Posts: 1
    Greetings,

    You have some very useful advice/knowledge to share... Thanks! :)

    I'm having a problem with my LR. I have a 2002 Land Rover Discovery II. Recently the "service engine soon" light came on. I took it to a local mechanic and they said I needed new spark plugs, wires, etc. so I had a 100K mile tune-up done which cost $760. I got 2 miles down the road and the check engine light came on again, so I decided to take my truck to the dealer where I bought it. The dealer said the plugs and wires were no good AND that I need new head and sub gaskets. They said I've got an oil and coolant leak and so on and so forth. I've shopped all over the internet looking for factor LR plugs and wires and can't find them anywhere. I'm going to take my truck back to the mechanic to redo my plugs and wires because they're going to cover re-doing the original job.
    As for the head/sub gaskets and cylinder #4 not putting out/off enough pounds - what should I do? The LR service shop wants to charge $4500!!! Does that sound right? I know the economy is bad and dealerships are hurting, but I don't want to get raped in car repairs.
    Any advice is greatly appreciated. :confuse:
  • landroverblowslandroverblows Member Posts: 12
    If you only learn one thing from me in life then let it be this: do not sink your money into repairing a Land Rover... There are stories world wide about taking it to repair shops and dealerships for repairs only to have every single problem return a short while later, much like the service engine soon light... LR should have done a recall on every single vehicle they've sold since 1999 but they don't care... They got your money and have already forgotten about you... Stop making the dealerships richer... They're never going to learn their lesson if we keep lining up like suckers... We have to let Ford know that we won't put up with it...

    You're heading down the same road I ventured down (except I refused to get it fixed)... I finally had to retire my LR and buy a 2010 Chevy Malibu b/c en route to my girlfriend's house I had 9 lights appear on my dashboard, 3 were flashing intermittently in non-unison... A few minutes later, my internal and external lights all went dark and soon after, all gauges zero'd out... I was quoted at $3500 just to fix the 3 Amigos lights (a very common problem on LR that also does not get fixed after you take it to get "fixed")...

    These cars are not worth the trouble... Ditch yours NOW
  • discoii01discoii01 Member Posts: 4
    The Discovery Rover will on the average need head gaskets at about 130K, give or take some miles. That entails a new head gasket kit from the long-block up and a ER6621 plenum gasket which is an additional cost. The head bolts will need to be replaced as well. Coolant hoses should be replaced as well if there is any difficulty in removing them, which usually results in a torn or broken hose here and there. It is also not unusual for the timing gasket to leak coolant as well, so that would or should be replaced as well, with a new front seal and if your mileage is around 100k or more, then the timing chain is only $20 so might as well replace it while your in there. You're looking at about $520 in parts and they can be obtained from partsgeek.com or autopartswarehouse.com. Both can provide OEM factory replacement or equivalent. You can find your wires and plugs there as well.

    $4500 is a bit steep for head gasket replacement, normally running about $1000 less on average.

    As for the comments about how bad Rovers are from a service standpoint, the fondness for these vehicles is actually more established in their outstanding off-road capabilities and the trade-off for the repairs is equitable in that regard. If you've purchased a LR as a primary vehicle with the hopes that it will provide you years of pleasure from a low-maintenance service record, then you purchased the wrong vehicle altogether. Their history is no secret and it's critical to consider this when choosing the LR for your needs. Most LR owners perform maintenance and service work themselves and it is sort of a hobby, again with a focus toward its off-road performance.

    If you use the LR as a primary vehicle and you don't intend on repairing it yourself to the greatest extent, then you indeed need to trade it in for something more dependable in that regard. If this is the case, I would not put any repair money into it because the value of the 2002 LR right now is about 3200 to 3500 trade-in value, depending upon which specific model you have. The needed repairs would put you at about $1000 less and dealers usually expect to put about $1000 or so into used vehicles on average to establish them as road-worthy. Depending upon what you're looking to purchase, you can play around with the numbers slightly, but don't expect to get your money out of a LR in this year class. It won't happen, particularly with the economy factors being pressed by the government to urge purchase of high gas mileage alternatives, which causes book values on vehicles like LR to plummet.

    So if you are a diehard LR jockey and you like going off-road alot, then keep it and do the repairs yourself. You can join the LR forum and obtain a free repair manual.

    If you're planning on keeping it and having it repaired as your primary car, it'll empty your wallet in a hurry.

    Best regards,

    RL
  • intensityderenintensityderen Member Posts: 22
    I agree with the other comments - I loved mine but I had to part with it. I ended up with a Hummer H3 with an inline 5-liter that I love (of course Hummer is nearing the end, I guess, but it is really a GM Colorado anyway).

    My check engine light came on with the defect of the O2 sensor. I also noticed some black exhaust and poor fuel mileage when that happened. Changing the sensor fixed my issues. Good Luck!
  • discoissuesdiscoissues Member Posts: 23
    I have a 2002 Disco w/ 110k miles on her Many ISSUES, a new head replacement, whereever coollant could leak it leaked, including replacing the water pump, 2 new window motors (same window within 6 months), ABS issues, etc. My issue now is a starting problem. It will start 9 out of 10 times. When it doesn't start it will just turn over like there's no ignition or it's not getting fuel. A couple times while driving many of the intruments warning lights have come on... although after turning off and restarting they stay off??? When it doesn't start I'll just let it sit for awhile and then she starts up again and runs fine. Is this a fuel pump issue, or perhaps an ignition issue, or something else??? Thx, Al
  • heyomarheyomar Member Posts: 6
    crankshaft position sensor?
  • discoissuesdiscoissues Member Posts: 23
    Where is that located? How would that effect the starting?
    Thx, Al
  • gogodiscogogodisco Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 2001 disco II. Turn out to be crankshaft position sensor. It's a bear to replace due to it location between the exhaust pipes and the engine block on the driver side of the car. Very tight space. I borught the part from atlantic british for $79.00. Good luck.
  • discoissuesdiscoissues Member Posts: 23
    Thanks so much for the advice. I think that did it... crankshaft position sensor. Much cheaper than a fuel pump! Just picked it up and that seems to have been the problem. Need to drive more to know for sure..... Thx!
  • nightfallnightfall Member Posts: 2
    Hey bud,
    Here in San Antonio, just bought a 2003 Disco. 64,000 miles on it for $10,000 mint.
    Already have issues though as was expected. 3 amigos come off and on. Brakes need to be replaced. You mentioned in the above post about getting a free repair manual. Can you direct me where to get this free manual. I most certainly will be doing as much work on the truck myself as I can. Thanks for any advice/info you can give me.
    Rob
  • nightfallnightfall Member Posts: 2
    Great story bro! pics?
    Rob
  • gaz3gaz3 Member Posts: 1
    Hi would appreciate any ideas as to the cause of this problem it has me flumaxed
    car drives normal from cold start for 4 or 5 miles then all power is lost engine revs reduce to 1000 rpm accellarater as no effect temperature gauge normal coolant ok oil ok no warning lights or ODB errors switch of engine wait 30 minutes car will start and drive normally for 2 to 3 miles then fault recurs fitted a new fuel pump and still have the same problem can any one point me in the right direction
    thanks in anticipation
    Garry :sick:
  • discoissuesdiscoissues Member Posts: 23
    Crankshaft positioning sensor. $90 part... most likely the problem.
    Al
  • bravolimabravolima Member Posts: 1
    Have gotten the following error codes recently, some of which are likely parasitic:
    P1590
    P0304, 0303, 0306, 0300, 0301
    P1300, 1319
    Vehicle runs rough at all RPM's below 2350 in any gear. Mostly smooth at 2500RPM in all gears.
    Recently changed out both ignition coils (no change).
    I'm leaning toward some kind of fuel issue:
    Fuel Pump
    Fuel Filter
    Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve
    I thought it unlikely that I would suddenly have 4 +/- injectors go at once so I don't think that there's an injector issue at this time.
    Any thoughts or recomendations appreciated.
    Thanks.
  • discoissuesdiscoissues Member Posts: 23
    Likely the crankshaft postion sensor. I thought my issue was the fuel pump but it turned out to be this sensor. $90 part.... Good luck
  • 99salty99salty Member Posts: 6
    We are trying to replace the fuel filter and don't know where to look for it.

    Help.
  • landroverblowslandroverblows Member Posts: 12
    www.roverparts.com
  • stuartsdstuartsd Member Posts: 3
    Did you get a response regarding the free repair manual?
  • 99salty99salty Member Posts: 6
    When the key is on, before starting Disco II, there is a humming noise in the control panel area. The vehicle will not start now-and has died on my twice while driving. Any ideas?
  • 99salty99salty Member Posts: 6
    not yet. Any ideas?
  • landroverblowslandroverblows Member Posts: 12
    sounds like the alternator belt stays on after you turn it off and is draining your battery...
  • stuartsdstuartsd Member Posts: 3
    I am beginning to think that the LR Discovery may not be the best vehicle to buy. I really don't know about the dash warning lights BUT I would look into buying an OBD scanner and find out for myself what the "Fault" codes were.
    I saw the reference to the Free repair manual in a previous post. This has got to be a good place to start if it is still available.
  • gregsdiscoverygregsdiscovery Member Posts: 1
    Have a 2004 Discovery. Every once and a while it will not start. Sometimes if you move the Park lever or rock the vehicle it will start. Is there a Nuetral Safety Switch override?
  • discoissuesdiscoissues Member Posts: 23
    Could be the 'Crankshaft Position Sensor' - $90 part.
  • lpaclpac Member Posts: 2
    I was driving around in my car this morning doing errands. All was well. When I went to start my car at one point it wouldn't turn over. Silence. The car is in park, the battery seems fine (the interior lights work, the car's bell dings, clock works, the dashboard lights up). Help!
  • lpaclpac Member Posts: 2
    is this easy to install?
  • abutomaabutoma Member Posts: 21
    It sounds like the old problem from Disco I
    Try moving the car 10 m away and it might start right away.
    If it does it is interference from cables under ground and you may have the problem next time you stop in the same area.
    Fix? NO. It becomes a BIT better if you make a longer antenna for the receiving unit.
    The best thing is to mount an over ride switch for the immobilizer. After I did that I do not care where I park. If the immobilizer is kicking in I override it and voila the engines starts
    Good luck
  • jc52jc52 Member Posts: 1
    My disco plastic around the seats is all cracked and I want to know if I can upgrade to the plastic found in disco II's. Does anyone know if it will fit. Also have the same issue with the shifter plastic. Want to upgrade to disco II parts but not sure they will fit.
  • abutomaabutoma Member Posts: 21
    TEmperature -15 C. No starting problem, driving 200 meters. Complete stop as if the fuel was turned off.Though of iceblock.
    Now normal temp i.e. on the plus side. Fuel reaching the injectors, but no way the engine will start. Nothing except the cranking :( .
    Any idea?
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