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Comments
The old fashioned way. Have someone pump the pedal and bleed each unit.
check the post with my name on them this will lead you too many threads with this subject.. just click on the green linked (ttaupier), there have been a lot of posts ..about this >> and the NTSB/NHTSB.. could not careless, unless you cause a 300 car pileup.. just my .5 cents
There is a stainless steel kit you can order ($300~), then about $300-$400 to put on.. as far as the problem being >>> a Low millage thing.. I'm not understanding.. sounds like someone talking out of their silly part, BUT..I don't know.
let us know how you make out..
I reported my brake line which failed on my 2003 to the NHTSA about a year ago and recently they have responded asking for more details on the problem. Who knows, maybe something will come of it if more people continue to report the issue.
Good luck
My problem is when I am coming to a complete stop and I brake, the peddle begins to go down, the truck keeps moving slowly, the brakes push down a little further, then I come to a complete stop. It's almost like the peddle goes down, you can feel the brakes being applied, then it feels like the brake crunches and goes down a little further coming to a complete stop. Also when I am turning and braking, sometimes there is a weird grind noise coming from my front rotors.
I took the truck into the shop, they bled the brake line, adjusted my rear drum brakes, and even put on two new tie rods. They told me they saw NO leaks and everything was ok. After I drove it away, the problem still occurs.
My thoughts are it might be the a bad master cylinder, or ball joints, but I am not sure why it does this. ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED PLEASE!!! I WANT TO GET THIS PROBLEM FIXED!
Sounds like the parking brake may need to be repaired or adjusted, if there is a grinding noise and all the "DISC-BRAKE", side seems good. I would be leaning to investigate the back side.. the non visible side or parking brake linkage and springs....
I have a about 65K miles since my last brake job(130K total on truck)...and need to do a brake job.. I also never use my parking brake...so my guess is.. this is the part that may be rubbing and not resetting..
I also have SSBC/Tri-piston in the rear and notice that the brake pads wear much quicker than the front. The rotor seems fine but the pads definitely see more action than the stock pads. I've not had any issues with anything sounding like rubbing...with the SSBC calipers, however..
The reason I changed the calipers in the rear to begin with, was my front rotors were warping once a month due to the back calipers, factory one piston disc, were frozen to the slide guide pins, just make sure your rear calipers are not frozen to the guide slider pins that allow the caliper to align on the rotors..
Hopefully this helps.. let us know what you find..
Cheers, Ted
wow sounds very close to my original posts, way back when I was having my new truck brake issues.. The rear calipers are junk.. I'm so disappointed with GM on this full size truck issue, for about $1500, at the factory they could have upgraded the brakes to something worth while..
My truck had the same issue, and GM mechanics have know about the issue and the TSB for some time, maybe the problem its so old now none of the new mechanics are even trained on it.. search my name and look for my earlier post's i describe this problem and the issue that GM knows they have..
Basically.. the rear calipers freeze on their slider guide pins and then the caliper can not grab the rotor...
e-brake was backed off all the way so as to eliminate any confusion about brake adjustment. what I hope is the solution is that some how (1) to much grease on the caliper bolts, (2) bled the rear brakes incorrectly and I hope this is the solution. Heading back out to reinstall the new seal and take it for a testdrive, hope it works.
i noticed while i had the rotor off, the the spindle was pretty woblly.
hey ted, have you ever had the front knuckle apart? it seems pretty straight forward.any tips or cautions would be appreciateld. also after bleeding all the brake lines again, I dont have a great pedal. Has it become obvious that I dont do this very often. any suggestions would be welcome.
Why should some owners be burdened with the cost of repair and some not?
Why is this real safety problem not addressed? Is Toyota's problem bigger?
Do I have to have a break failure and run over a lady with a baby for it to be a recognized problem in all states?
I am from GM Customer Service. I would recommend taking it to the dealership to have the concern diagnosed. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
If the front and rear are the same size, see if rotating them makes the problem move.
I hope someone can advise me. I'm a senior who buys Chevy's all the time. This is the first time I have experienced the problems I am having with my vehicle. I don't know where to go as the dealership is giving me poor service. The service personnel are the pits. I have been having problems with the brakes from the time of purchase on 2007. I have taken the vehicle back to the dealership many times and they keep saying they can't find the problem. The ABS light stays on and when I can hear a 'hissing' sound in the brakes; sometimes they even hesitate when applying them and often there is a squeaking noise. Additionally, the right front door makes a cracking sound every time you open it and all the dealership did was oil it. I have taken the vehicle back to no avail. Now they say my warranty has expired without notice. Any advice would be helpful. (My granddaughter found this site and typing for me I am not computer savvy to say the least. My vehicle has only 24,717 miles as I am afraid to drive it with the brake issues.
I am from GM Customer Service. Can you please email me at socialmedia@gm.com so I can ask you a few more questions about your concerns? Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
Also, is there a way to do this without loosening the leaf springs and sliding them over to get at the bolts to the caliper?
Lastly, the cv boot on the front passenger side ripped and the bearing is going bad. A mechanic I talked to said I am better off cutting the shaft off than spending a bunch of money on labor to do it. Is this something a pretty good back yard mechanic can do on his own.
The wheels/tires should be checked for trueness and roundness. I watched with a little anxiety while a machine shaved rubber off the tread of a set of Continental tires 35 years ago. The results were an excellent ride instead of the previous washboard. The Continentals came with the car from the factory, but I didn't buy Continentals as replacements when the time came for new tires.