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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems

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Comments

  • guilfoylejjguilfoylejj Member Posts: 2
    Wow, I have a 2000 Chev Silveraldo, Z-71. I'm doing research on the same issue. It started about a year and a half ago after taking the truck to Carquest and having the front breaks and roters replaced. Then I moved to chicago and didn't have an oportunity to take it back. When I did, the warrenty for the roters was up and they couldn't get the issue to replicate. Now, it happens more and more often and seems even rougher when breaking. It felt like, at first, the ABS kicking in, but now, it seems more aggressive than that. I just replaced the tires and while it was in the air, the tire guy ran the truck so I can watch to see if I can see if something is loose. I couldn't see anything, but he could definatley feel what I was talking about. And you can see the roters and everything connected to the front in jerking and the breaks wouldn't lock up. I had to put it in 4WD to get the front roters to turn. He suggested a friend at a local mechanic shop. Without looking at it, he thought it was something in the ABS system, but also felt that the ABS light should come on. He also said that sometimes it doesn't come on if the ABS moter has gone bad. I'll continue to research. Please email me at army dot strong @ sbcglobal dot net. obviously, replace the dot with a . and no spaces. I'll do the same for you. Thanks.

    Joe
  • guilfoylejjguilfoylejj Member Posts: 2
    I'm not noticing any growling, but when comming to a stop, it feels like the ABS kicking in and won't stop until I let off the break and push down again. Started about a year ago and getting more and more aggressive and feeling like a rock or something is between the pad and roter. Was this the same problem you were having? I searched a GM part store for the wheel bearkings, but it didn't say anything about the wheel speed sensor attached. Is that something differant or do all of the wheel bearings come with the wheel speed sensor? Thanks,

    Joe
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    The wheel speed sensor is located behind the rotor. In other words you need to take the rotor off to change the sensor. Not sure what the wheel bearing has to do with that.

    Has your mileage decreased since installing the rotors?

    Without looking at the truck I'd say there's a good chance your rotors are warped. I'd have a qualified mechanic look it once over. What really doesn't sound good is having to put it into 4wd to get the rotors to turn. Sounds like the calipers are locking up.
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    edited March 2011
    jim here, I'm the one that hit a pole at Lowes, because of the SAME thing. I didnt hear any growling either, but my 2001 did the SAME THING. The bearings are probably starting to go. I learned on this site, that when the bearing starts to wobble, the abs sensor believes that the truck is going too fast, and gets confused, and starts the abs, which in turn causes the truck to have NO brakes. You can purchase an abs sensor, but the bearings i bought came as a whole unit, with the new abs sensor installed. You just take the wheel off, brake caliper off, then a couple of bolts holding the bearing on, slide it off the axle shaft, dis-connect the abs cable, and replace the whole unit. If you do have a bad wheel bearing, worth checking just in case, you'll know once you get the wheel off. It would be worth the time and money to buy a bearing with a new abs sensor anyway.
    With any luck, you'll get yours fixed BEFORE you hit something, unlike MY experience. jp.
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    One thing different about your description and my experience-letting off the brake and re-braking didnt do much for my truck, when the abs activated, i just had no brakes. As for GM, i would expect them to sell the abs sensor, and the bearing as two different parts. I have found that GM is out for every penny they can stick you for. I know that they come attached on the front, without looking, i cant say for sure about the back.
  • daveinsocaldaveinsocal Member Posts: 1
    edited March 2011
    I have been getting this strange almost whiny type sound from my front driver side wheel area. Everyone I have spoken to suggest replacing the wheel bearing. I am curious to know if I have to replace the hub as well or what. I have been searching online and all the parts places only have the rear wheel bearing listed individually. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also when I turn the wheels sharply like making a U-Turn or something when I try to apply the brake the brakes will not engage (step on brake pedal and it does not move) until the wheels are near center again.

    PS. It is for a 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3L v8 LS
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hateful_jim,

    As of today, how is your ABS system in your truck doing? When did you first notice this happening when you were braking? How many miles do you have on your 2001 truck?

    Michelle P., GM Customer Service (assisting Christina)
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    Working great now that i changed the bearings. That fixed the problem on my truck, but i havent taken the time to check the brake lines yet. This all happened a few months ago, long about the time of my first post. As of today, 3/25/2011, my truck has 137,348 miles on it.
    I changed the bearings, with bearings that had the abs sensor attached, and it solved my problem, however, a little late, since now i have a bent bumper, and yellow paint.
    Funny thing, i had to go to this site to finally figure out what the problem was. Even the mechanics at "SMOKY MOUNTAIN CHEVROLET, in Franklin NC didnt know why the abs kept coming on when the brakes were applied.
    (They ALSO said there was nothing wrong with the 4 wheel drive, although i kept getting a "CHECK 4WD" light. They said the sensors needed cleaning, HOWEVER-I came HERE, and found out about the 2 MOTORS, AND after changing BOTH motors, AND the push button control, thats fixed TOO.)
    Turns out that the LOCAL CHEVROLET DEALERSHIP isnt worth much for FIXING CHEVROLET TRUCKS, seems ALL THEY ARE GOOD FOR ARE BUYING DEFECTIVE CHEVROLET TRUCKS!!
    Just so you'll know, my NEXT truck, MOST LIKELY WONT BE A CHEVROLET.
    yOURS TRULY, HATEFUL JIM !!
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Member Posts: 70
    Same truck and year, but a GMC. Lost mine at 50,394 on 3/9/09. The front left line fails at the top of the A frame. Unfortunately, I only replaced the fronts. This week (3/23/11 at 65,000 miles) during a snowstorm, someone pulled in front of me, hit their brakes, I hit mine and the line from the master cylinder to the the ABS failed. Luckily the truck kind of stopped and the car in front swerved into another lane. That line failed in the same area by the front tire. I reported the last one to NHTSA and they are asking for photos and samples. Just bought a Stainless set and they are reporting that they are selling lots of them for the 2001 - 2004s. Do yourself a favor, if yours look very rusty, just replace them now and save a life, (yours, the guy n front of you or your child's) Report to NHTSA and hopefully GM will eventually take notice. It is a shame this is being ignored. When it comes to life safety, this is not the place to be saving money on cheap steal and no protective coating. GM knows this, as the new trucks have a coating. These trucks should not have been sold in the North, or GM should just say, Replace brake lines every 4 yrs or 35,000 miles.
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Member Posts: 70
    Brake Update: Brake line going from master cylinder to ABS failed during emergency stop. Same location as the front left line failure. Finally going to SS and replacing all. They report they are selling many of these sets for 2001- 2004s This failure was at 65,000 miles, 3/2011. Truck is a 2003.

    PS Update: PS pump rusted at nipple, causing loss of fluid, while towing. Makes it tough to turn and worse, you lose the power for your brakes due to hydroboost. Just need strong arms, legs and grit your teeth. That failure occurred 7/19/2010, 60,312. replaced pump, remaining rusty lines and unfortunately steering box due to seal leaks. Cooler and other lines were replaced prior.

    All fluid lines constantly corroding as if there is some type sacrificial anode corrosion going on very odd. Still need to replace fuel lines ( one splice repair so far). Classic tube is making fuel lines in SS also.

    Why keep this truck? have so much invested in replacements at this point, hoping to get another 3 yrs. Maybe GM will come clean with the recall.
  • tglinktglink Member Posts: 2
    The abs system on my 2007 silverado is causing the brakes to pulse every time i stop regardless of conditions. I had the problem diagnosed as a bad wheel bearing and repaired,however the problem returned. I was wondering if anyone faced the same problem and managed to have it repaired correctly and what was the cause.
  • sparkmarksparkmark Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2009 Chevrolet 1500 Ext Cab. The brakes went out at 7000 miles, front & rear. The dealer replaced front pads & rotors & the rear brakes & drums. At 10,000 miles the front pads were replaced again. At 15,000 miles the front pads, rotors, rear shoes & drums were replaced again. The truck now has 40,000 miles and the brakes, front & rear, have been replaced (8) times. The dealer says they can find no problems with the brake system. I've taken the truck to an independent shop. They have replaced rotors, pads, shoes & drums twice. They also can find no other problems with the brake system. Can anyone offer any reasons why this is happening?

    Thanx
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    What kind of mileage are you getting?
  • sparkmarksparkmark Member Posts: 4
    I'm getting 11.9 mpg according to the truck's computer.
  • fishwishinfishwishin Member Posts: 3
    I am not sure what the variations on brakes were on the chevy silverado line, but I have a 2003 silverado 1500 HD crew cab with the quadrasteer option. The truck is used about 10% of the mileage for towing my 4000 lb boat trailer to the ocean. It has 118000 miles on it and still has plenty of life on the original brake pads! Now we can talk about the emergency brake which has never worked right from when I bought it new...
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    Not trying to be funny, or offend, but you dont drive with both feet like alot of folks, do you? Some people i have rode with use the right foot on the accelerator, and the left foot on the brake. I'm pretty sure that you wouldnt be asking about this if you did that, but just in case. jim
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    sparkmark,

    Would you mind emailing me your VIN and involved dealer please? I’d like to look into this further for you.

    Thanks,
    Laura
    GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Tglink,

    First off, let me apologize for the lengthy wait for a response to your situation. Since, you had posted your situation on here, have you taken the vehicle back to dealership for further diagnosis? Could you please, provide us with an update?

    Michelle P., GM Customer Service (assisting Christina)
  • sparkmarksparkmark Member Posts: 4
    The dealer is MK Smith Chevrolet Chino, Ca. The VIN #1GCEC29J49Z145670
    They did the second brake job replacing the front rotors & pads & the rear drums & shoes. I have done the brakes myself and Chino Hills Transmission has replaced everything twice. Chino Hills Transmission was the last shop to work on my truck. Last date of service was 4/01/11.
  • sparkmarksparkmark Member Posts: 4
    The truck has not been back to a dealer. I took it to an independent shop. Last service on the brakes was 4/01/11.
  • jdforsten21jdforsten21 Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys I work for a hunting club and they bought a 2009 2500 hd in March of 09. I just got the 4th set of brakes put on it this week. I am on my third set of rotors also. I only have 23,729 miles on it. This truck is a work truck and is in the mud on the club 99% of the time but this break thing is getting a little old. Any thoughts?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    sparkmark,

    When was the last time you spoke to the dealership regarding the brakes? Have you contacted customer assistance?

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • tglinktglink Member Posts: 2
    Michelle P. In response to your question, no I have not taken the truck back since posting my message. The diagnosis was made at an independent garage rather than a dealer and I had hoped to narrow the potential solutions before returning to either one. This is apparently not an isolated problem and I am attempting to educate myself in an effort to avoid unnecessary and costly repairs
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Member Posts: 70
    Yes, please post the results of your situation. Parts that wear or fail are understandable and different quality vehicles have different levels of reliability. However, parts that fail within years of new and affect life safety is an incorrect and unsafe design. Living through 2 premature brake line failures, I am now wondering if ABS should be replaced for safety purposes. You are doing GM truck owners a service by keeping us posted. I have heard of no recalls yet from GM.
  • perks0000perks0000 Member Posts: 2
  • perks0000perks0000 Member Posts: 2
    I tried to replace the drum shoes on my truck last week and everything was going smoothly until I attempted to remove the emergency brake line from the old shoe. I think I can see how it needs to be done. I think i need to pull the cone like head of it and push it down at the same time until it can move freely in the spring. I could be wrong but even if that is correct I couldn't seem to do it. Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    edited April 2011
    tglink,

    Please keep us posted on any updates.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    barnowl3,

    Are you currently experiencing any issues with your vehicle?

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Tglink,

    Thank you for providing us with additional information about your situation. I can understand the quest for more information to assist in saving money with parts and repairs.

    Please, don’t hesitate to contact Caron or Christina if you have further questions or concerns.

    Michelle P., GM Customer Service
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    My truck had the brake failure, that occurred when the wheel bearings went bad, and the abs system stopped working, and dis-allowed the brakes to work,- AND ITS A 2001. I keep up with this forum pretty much, EVERY DAY.

    My observation is this, and i'm wondering- A CHEVY SILVERADO, made in 2001, and now, 10 YEARS LATER, I still see posts of fellow Chevy truck owners, with the very same things with their newer trucks. HOWEVER- THE CUSTOMER SERVICE AT GM wants "ADDITIONAL INFORMATION",

    10 YEARS OF TRUCKS SOLD, AT OUTRAGEOUS PRICES, 'AND' A STIMULUS FROM THE OBAMA BUNCH- SEEMS TO ME, THAT AS MANY GOOD CUSTOMERS, AS GM HAS SEEN IN THE LAST 10 YEARS, You would think that GM would actually give a crap, and reimburse their customers for the trouble, or at least give a RE-CALL on their defective trucks. Guess i dont know much about business, BUT I KNOW WHO I "WONT" BE BUYING MY NEXT TRUCK FROM!! I wont forget, i have that big dent in the front bumper to remind me how well the brakes worked when i needed them, EVERY TIME I GO TO GET IN. HAVE A GREAT DAY- HATEFUL JIM!!
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Member Posts: 70
    Yes. I lost my brakes last month during a panic stop due to a ruptured steel brake line. :blush: 2 years ago, at 50,000 miles, my front brake line ruptured requiring me to run off the highway to miss a slowing tractor trailer. :confuse: The entire brake line line system had incredible, significant corrosion ( no protective coating). My oil cooler lines corroded and ruptured at 3.5 yrs old and 30,000 miles, causing a complete loss of oil pressure, luckily, I was in a parking lot. :cry: Last year my power steering pump corroded losing all fluid, causing loss of power steering and brake boost while towing my boat. :mad: Some of the power steering lines were on their second replacement. 2.5 yrs ago, my fuel line corroded and caused a fine gasoline mist under the truck, since that line was pressurized. Today, the fuel lines are extremely fragile and will require complete replacement right up to the fuel rail, as the steel fuel crossover at the top of the engine is also oddly very corroded. My truck only has about 65,000 miles today. I have never experienced a chain reaction of corrosion like this. My first GM was a 65 Pontiac and I still own a 67 and 68 after 30 yrs. Oddly, my rear bumper started rusting two weeks after I took delivery of this Sierra HD. Do you think that this is normal for GM trucks or could my truck possibly have some type of defect causing all these lines to fail so prematurely? ( transmission lines and air conditioning lines have also required total replacement). I have saved my brake lines if you would like to examine them, as the NHTSA is also asking me for samples.
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Member Posts: 70
    Jim,
    Hard to disagree. At this point, I think I am further ahead keeping what I have vs. risking another $40,000. Though I have new front bumper, I have chosen to leave the original one on, that GM recoated under warranty. The significant rust is such a stark contrast to the rest of the truck, that many people ask what has happened. I show them the corrosion under the hood and it stuns them. Typically, these people are interested in buying new trucks, so it makes them think twice. 2 people this week alone have asked and I have l told them the problems. This has caused at least one person to hesitate with GMC and I keep those I know updated. I Have been a staunch supporter of GM for 30 yrs, so now I'll just continue in hopes GM may listen. After pricing a new 2011 last year, almost ready to pull the trigger, I asked about what has been done to correct these issues. I received a shrug. Then the service department explained that they would not replace my rusted SS muffler ($1100 !!!) under the 8 yr emmisions warranty ( catalytic is welded to it). Said, well it's not all stainless. I had my window sticker , and showed him what it said ' Long Life Stainless'. He then shrugged. The last straw, "well we must reduce your trade in value as the front bumper is rusted!" I asked, but that IS a GM defect, that you did not properly fix under warranty. A third shrug. I left the 2011 sitting on the lot and the contract in the salesman hands. Frankly, with all the hassle and trips to the shop I have been patient with, I will continue to patiently wait for resolution. I had very good dealer, 3 purchase of new GM vehicles in 10 yrs. All future purchases are now on hold. I may pull in to a few more GM dealers though and show off my specimen to more customers. I've met some nice people that truly appreciate the information.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Jim, the reason the GM representatives are asking for additional information is because info posted here is not verifiable. We do not ask for any proof that you are who you say you are or own what you say you own when you register to post here.

    The GM reps ask you to contact them off-list with that verifiable information so they can properly document your complaints. Otherwise, it's just words on a screen... from an otherwise anonymous source.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    Yeah, i know ya'll are just looking for information. I took my truck to smoky mountain chevrolet, and they said that the reason my abs light came on was that it was dirty, and needed to be washed out, after a trip to Florida. Yeah, right..... Turned out to be a bad wheel bearing, found out too late, AFTER the abs wouldnt let the brakes work, and i had to use a big yellow pole at LOWES in Franklin NC to get the truck to stop!! They also said that the Check 4wd light didnt show a code, but i had to bring the problem here, to find out that the truck had 2 motors. I changed both motors myself, AND the pushbuttons before i got the check 4wd lite to go out, (THAT THE MECHANICS AT THE LOCAL CHEVY PLACE SAID THEY COULDNT FIND ANYTHING WRONG, EVEN THOUGH I COULDNT GET THIS PIECE OF CRAP TO GO INTO 4WD). I still owe 3100.00 on this 2001 Chevy. It kinda straps my butt that ya'll took a stimulus, but you cant even hire mechanics that can find out whats wrong with the trucks ya'll design and build.
    I'm 49, and since i graduated in 1979, i have bought 5 new chevrolet trucks, over the last 29 years of marriage. Ya'll are just looking for information. Ford Motor REFUSED the stimulus, and they just re-called over a million trucks. I have NEVER OWNED a ford truck, but I SEE A FORD IN MY FUTURE!! KINDA WISH i had totalled this thing when i hit that pole. The clutch is now starting to slip, and the rear end pops too. (AND I STILL OWE 3100.00 ON IT, BY THE TIME I GET IT PAID FOR, IT WONT BE WORTH FIXING!!) YA'LL might want to tell your buddy O'bama, you need another stimulus check to help figure out what your doing wrong up there in motor city!! From some of the posts on this site, it kinda sounds to me like I"M not the only one that regrets buying a Chevrolet. Personally, i dong give a crap if you believe me or not about my truck, I guess the dealership here doesnt keep a record of the service requests, that would probably cost too much for ya'll to keep up with the problems you build into your trucks, huh??
    You have a great day, and if this thing will crank in the morning, maybe i will too!! (pardon me if i dont hold my breath!)
  • 77077707 Member Posts: 4
    2010 Silverado 1500. With 9500 miles on it total.Just had a service at the dealership and was informed that the remaing thickness of the brake linings were fronts at 10mm and rears at 5mm.Just what are the original thicknesses of these linings.This sounds pretty premature to be down to this stage.And believe me I dont ride the brakes or deliver parcels.Tnx.
  • 19camaro6919camaro69 Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 is also suffering from rusted brake lines. My son was driving the truck this past summer when one of the steel lines ruptured above the fuel tank. My local garage repaired the problem. Today my brakes light came on. Upon inspection, the steel brake lines are badly corroded and fluid is leaking just below the firewall on the drivers side.

    1. Does anyone know when I can get stainless preformed lines for a 2001 Sierra extended cab?

    2. Has GM had a recall on this as this appears to be a serious safety concern.

    3. The brakes have been spongy since I bought this truck used in 2006. The GMC dealership said this is normal???

    I am a loyal GM customer and would like to continue to be one.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    edited April 2011
    If it had spongy brakes back in '06 I'm wondering why would you buy the truck?

    My '00 never had any issues that were brake related though I did replace the lines on my Silverado and my '02 Denali with the stainless steel version as it does wonders for a spongy feel with stainless you eliminate any flex in the line. When I refer to stainless I'm referring to braided stainless.

    Try www.summitracing.com enter your truck make/year and search for stainless steel brake lines. You will have quite a few kits to choose from. Good luck.
  • jimp99jimp99 Member Posts: 4
    FYI EVERYONE!!I just got a card from the U.S. Department of Transportation National Highway Traffic Safety Administration about the rusty brake line issue. They are "investigating an alleged defect in certain GM Model years 99-03 C/K Pickups and SUV's for brake line corrosion." I have to comment and answer a few questions and send it back. If I have any Questions I can also call a Robert Esser the Federal Safety Defects Engineer at 1-800-262-8309 x265 His email is bob.esser@dot.gov :)
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    Hateful Jim here- At this point, i'm just trying to pay this piece of plastic crap off, although i bought it USED, and still had to pay about 12000.00 for it. I still owe about 2500.00 on it, and it only has about 134000 miles on it. Was driving down the highway sunday, and right out of the blue, the transmission goes out. Fluid level was fine, smells ok, a little darker than i like it to be, but otherwise seemed to be ok, except that with a small trailor on the back it did seem to have a little trouble in the towing mode.
    My guess is that GM has decided over the years, that they can make more money on replacement parts, and repair service, than they can make on sales. Obviously, they dont NEED your business, in the sales department. They just need another STIMULUS from the government, since they are losing your business, (never mind the fact that their workers are OVER-PAID, AND UNDERWORKED). Its alright, the big city UNION will take care of them.
    I called a local transmission shop, 1300.00 to rebuild the transmission, and NO- IT WASNT THE CHEVROLET PLACE. ANYONE THATS INTERESTED IN KNOWING HOW MUCH MORE THEY WOULD CHARGE, JUST LET ME KNOW AND I'LL GET A QUOTE FROM THE LOCAL GM DEALER, JUST SO WE ALL CAN HAVE A LAUGH AT THEIR EXPENSE.
    2500.00 + 1300.00 =3800.00, I think i can find a used TOYOTA 4x4 a little cheaper on a lot here in town, and it will probably last about twice as long as this flower pot.
    Ya'll have a great day- HATEFUL JIM said that.
  • lilrickyricrdolilrickyricrdo Member Posts: 1
    I recently replaced my brake booster after I had an incident where my brakes went to the floor and did not brake. Shortly there after I replaced my front and rear brakes. The system was bled properly, however now my front brakes are locking up and smoking I am afraid to drive the truck due to the fact that it is now over heating and to avoid possible engine damage. What could be the problem and how could I fix it?
  • ttaupier1ttaupier1 Member Posts: 50
    edited May 2011
    Hi Lilricky, I am assuming that when you say replaced the brakes you replace the brake pads and rotors... not your calipers. My first reaction would be why are your brakes squeezing and not releasing.. I am thinking your calipers where original and the guide pins were never greased and the fact that you probably dont drive it too much.. that much means general moister re-rusts the pins to the calipers...making them not slide in and out with use... ( based on assumptions)

    I would replace all calipers and brake shoes... and possible the rotors... I have had the same experience with factory calipers on the rear .. not the front. I actually replaced all my brakes with after market ( SSBC) parts and now have 140K miles on a 1500GMC sierra...since i moved to after market ..i never have a brake issue.. ever ...you can search my other posts if you would like i have pics of the brake system I installed... the rotors and brake pads just replaced are probably ... EOL due to the heat and stress caused by the over heating...

    srry about the thought for sharing photos of the brakes I install, looks like Carspace.com >> was taken down .. send me an email if you want photos.. and i will send them to you .. :confuse:
  • bucktaskerbucktasker Member Posts: 1
    My 2007 Sierra 4X4 Crew Cab brakes smoothly but on occasion, particulary as I am nearly stopped, the pedal will go almost to the floor and I feel a very slight vibration (like the ABS system). A quick "pump" of the peddle and all is fine. I have 57,000 miles and thought it might be the front pads, so I replaced them (only about half used on the pads - but changed them anyway). Still happens. I'm a bit of a novice, but I did check the fluid, etc. No lights or alerts on the dash have ever illuminated. Possible to have a little air in the brake lines? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
  • whitecloud98whitecloud98 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my silverado-1500 5.7 98' as el tuercas1 #273. could this just be brake lines? help please.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    bucktasker,

    I would encourage you to take your vehicle into the dealership to be looked at. Please keep me posted when the issue has been taken care of.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • ttaupier1ttaupier1 Member Posts: 50
    hi camaro, not sure if you wanted all the solid steel lines for brakes replaced with a prefab kit .. i got and installed mine from classictubing.com, came in a big box and installed in a snap.. biggest issue the dealer had was that the SS fittings were much harder steel than the steel ends they were mounting to on the truck hardware.. took about a day .. for the dealer to pull the old and install the new ( see my other posts)

    2) no recall and they are not interested... otherwise they would have issues a TSB to deal with it...in lue of a recall

    3)MY BRAKES WERE SPONGY FROM DAY ONE! and the dealer said thats just the way they are for a 6300# truck... so i started the research and ended up here.....replaced all calipers with SSBC and russel braided lines from hard lines to calipers, now i drive a nascar...brake system .. no spongy there..my wife also drives it and says it great feel for a large vehicle

    we cart our two kids around in it and i used to commute into Boston... i needed good brakes.. i have them now.. I also just swapped the mechancal fan for two electric fans from flexlite....save some more HP and fuel milage, i used to have photos in carspace but they took that down.. i can send photos if you want ..
  • 99silverado299silverado2 Member Posts: 2
    Almost a year later- and still don't have this truck fixed. Now the fuel line BROKE..rusted . The cab is rusting, the backing plates are totally gone, the parking brakes rusted. My husband wants to junk it, but my other car is a Ford Taurus- which we were just told will not pass inspection due to excessive frame rust. Why buy american? The US car makers do NOT stand behind their vehicles.

    In the woods behind our home someone parked a 1940s dodge years ago. Through the years hunters have used it for target practice- the only rust on that car is around the edges of the bullet holes. If I were able to drag it down and get it running it would be more road worthy than either of our vehicles.

    My daughters boyfriend just purchased a new truck, after seeing the issues we had with Ford and Chevy, he bought a brand new Toyota. His reasoning was at least Toyota will do a recall when something goes wrong. Are you listening GM?

    Unfortunately we do not have the option of buying a new vehicle. I have called GM customer service, they were usless. The answer was that the vehicle was out of warranty...well duh.
  • halserhalser Member Posts: 20
    I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 with 138k miles. Last year I replace a broken right front
    Brake line. All the other lines are rusty and I am just waiting for the others to go. Last Saturday I pressed the brake pedal hard because of a yellow traffic light. I felt something give and know my pedal goes all the way to the floor. I ran the red light! I am lucky that no one was coming and that no one was already stopped! My master cylinder is almost full of fluid.
    I see a slight leak from the box under the driver’s seat. What is this box? At first I though it might be the master cylinder but, don't they give you a little notice? I have no Pressure and the small drip. Can the probleb :confuse: be the master cylinder or the box?
  • woolymanwoolyman Member Posts: 5
    edited July 2011
    I have a 99 Silverado 4x4 z71 new body style with 248,000 miles. Had the ABS module replaced at 86,000 mi (under warranty) and recently had all the brakes, rotors and one new caliper installed at 215,000 mi.

    The other day I was stopped at a stop sign and all of a sudden my foot went to the floor. I took it to P boys and they wanted to replace all my lines and the caliper (because they couldn't get the bleed valves loose. I checked the vacuum and I have hard pedal (with the vacuum line off) and when I put the line back on the pedal goes to the floor. Their is still about 1/4 inch on the pedal and if I stand on them they do stop the truck.

    The brake reservoir was real low and I added fluid, pumped the brakes, but see no fluid on the lines, ABS, calipers or wheels.

    Any ideas?
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    Hateful Jim here: Ya know, as much as i really do love my truck, (its a really nice looking truck, and when its working right, its a pretty decent truck), as i was saying, as much as i really do love my truck, EVERY TIME i read a new post, it occurs to me that GM REALLY DOESNT CARE ABOUT THEIR CUSTOMERS, they just wanna MAKE MORE MONEY, and produce more LOW QUALITY vehicles to sell for OUTRAGEOUS prices.

    JUST 1 question comes to mind here, Has anyone OTHER than myself thought that THIS just MIGHT be a good time for a CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT against general motors????? I mean, 376 posts by different customers, and drivers taking a chance getting KILLED by trucks that have defective BRAKE LINES, SOUNDS LIKE A SAFETY VIOLATION TO ME!! If these were COMMERCIAL vehicles, the DOT would be on this like flies on a dead horse!!! Now i'm not a lawyer, but i do believe that this problem with GM meets the requirements for a CLASS ACTION SUIT!! Anyone that knows how to start one, I'm willing to join up, before someone in MY family gets killed.
  • bigterpbigterp Member Posts: 3
    brake lines rusted out and had them replaced, put new rotors and pads all the way around, calipers appear to be good. Now it seems when braking going downhill at very slow speed I hear an awful noise and the brake pedal feels like it is pushing back against my foot..it almost seems like the ABS is kicking in or attempting to kick in. This only happens when braking and coming to a full stop or almost full stop going downhill only. Never happens any other time. Suggestions?
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