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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems

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Comments

  • ttaupier1ttaupier1 Member Posts: 50
    Hey Bigterp, my guess it could be a wheel bearing issue... some other folks in this list have had very similar issues/noises and frustrations...look for abs in this list of posts and search for wheel bearing also .. usually they list ABS issue going slow with applying brakes... GL my friend ...

    its also a pretty cheap way to fix it .. as well .. the bearings are not terribly expensive ..
    tt
  • ttaupier1ttaupier1 Member Posts: 50
    check this post >>> #332 of 379 Re: GM being so helpful [guilfoylejj]
  • bigterpbigterp Member Posts: 3
    thanks I think..will check out the bearings.
  • camodadcamodad Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 GMC Sierra 1500 and my brakes feel like they are manual only. No power assist and real hard to stop truck. Brake pedal feels the same with the engine running or not. I replaced the front calipers, ran new brake fluid by bleeding untill fluid was almost clear. What do i need to check as to why there is no power assist. My master cylinder has an electronic box on the valves. How do I check this? The brakes are closing just not strong enough to stop truck properly. This is my 16 year old son's truck so he can't drive it untill I have this problem fixed so PLEASE give me some help. Thanks :cry:
  • openendopenend Member Posts: 2
    I have 2002 Silverado with these same issuses. I have changed rotors, pads, made sure calipers are working, and speed sensor. Still have the problem when coming to a full stop. Brake pedal shudders and pushes back and does NOT brake. I have to pump the pedal to engage braks at that moment.There is no movement in wheel bearing either. Has anyone with this issue been able to resolve it The mechanic that changed the speed sensor said that there was some neverseise on the teeth of the ring in the hub and he cleaned it best he could. Could that be a cause for this problem?
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    I finally took the anti lock fuse out, no problems since, been a yr now.

    2002 silverado.
  • gsh1gsh1 Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2011
    I have this issue now with my 2000 GMC - I recently had new brakes line installed...my guess is the mechanics did not bleed the brakes line enough, never had this problem before....
  • pawrattpawratt Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 silverado with 55,000 miles on it and i will be putting the fourth set of pads and roters on it this week,also need to replace the calipers,roters & brackets, soft lines , backing plates & emerg. brake cables. All with lots of rust and corrision. Getting expensive and not to mention the #^&^$# :cry: agravation. no rust anywhere else I have found yet.HELP GM.... :mad: :mad:
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Have all the sets been OEM parts from GM? I had 60K on my 2000 Silverado and it had the orginal pads, calipers and rotors with the fronts still showing a lot of pad left with no corrosion.
  • openendopenend Member Posts: 2
    Thanks mrfixit911. I was going to do that but I didn't have a fuse identified as Anti Brake. But that idea caused me to disable the anti brakes by disconnecting the cable. This gave me a anti brake dashboard light but the brakes worked just fine. From one of the other posts I decided to change the hub. This finally fixed the problem even though the hub showed no symptoms of being worn. I hope this helps out anybody else that has the same problem with their anti lock brakes.
  • fishwishinfishwishin Member Posts: 3
    Not sure what the differences are in the various versions of brake equipment, but I have 2003 Silverado 1500HD that has 124000 miles on it and still has the original brake pads with some significant life left. I tow my boat to the ocean which included backing the trailer down until the back wheels touch the salt water, and there are only very minor signs of corrosion. For what it's worth, last time I was at the chevy parts desk I asked what new brake pads would cost for my truck and they quoted something around $250 per Axle! At that cost for the pads alone, they better last pretty long!

    My major problem with the Silverado brakes is in the emergency brake which has never worked right and now doesn't work at all. What a hokey design!
  • donnie_38donnie_38 Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2011
    i hav a 2000 gmc serria i just put new rear calipers break line i bleeded all brakes fronts hav gd pressure and 1 rear has gd pressre exept right rear is weak
    the brake pedal goes to the floor
    does anyone know or experince this problem thx donnie
  • budnkris1budnkris1 Member Posts: 3
    I own a 2004 Siverado 2500HD crew cab with 69,000 miles on it. This past weekend as I was leaving the boat ramp my brake pedal went to the floor. After getting it stopped with the E-brake I began looking for a leak. It didn't take long, as I found the wet spot on the frame and front drive shaft. Upon further inspection, I found the 5 lines that run into the ABS (??? not sure if that is what it is) on the frame under the drivers seat, severely rusted and one had split. Had it towed for 175.00 home. When I started researching replacement parts I find that this has been under investigation since 2008? I guess brakes are not an important enough system for GM or the NHTSB to take seriously! I had my family with me and a boat behind. Thank god it happened in the country. I live in Atlanta and it could have been much worse if I had been in town! Why are they dragging their feet on this??? If it had been a Toyota..... I have always been a die hard GM guy, but putting my family at such grave risk without so much as a note saying "You might want to check your lines" is unbelievably ridiculous! This is a monumental failure on the part of GM and the NHTSB. I filed a complaint with the nhtsb and have received no response...go figure!
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    Hateful Jim here, from the origional post # 332. Just want to let ya'll know that GM really cant afford to deal with ALL these "Frivolous" complaints about brakes, and ruptured brake lines.
    We all bought a really nice looking plastic truck, we should be proud to own a Chevrolet, besides, they are made in America, (Well, thats not exactly correct, most of them are made in Canada).

    Maybe we need to give them another "Stimulus" to help them deal with all the defective brake lines, and other defective parts. Buy AMERICAN, yeah- right!!
  • terrybillterrybill Member Posts: 6
    I had the same problem with my 2004 Silverado, except brake failure occurred at 48K miles. Since I lived in Cincinnati, the Chevy service representative said the failure was caused by living in the north, which is clearly a bunch of BS. The repair cost me over $1,300. I also filed with NHTSA and have heard nothing. Although there is an open investigation, it currently does not include models later than 2003. You need to contact Chris Lash (chris.lash@nhtsa.dot.gov; 202-366-2370), who heads the investigation, and urge him to include later model years.
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Member Posts: 70
    budnkris1. Sorry to hear about the near accident and very relieved to hear your family is safe. This happened to me 2 times with my 2003 GMC 2500 HD, also below 60,000. You are not alone and this catastrophic failure is very poor engineering, as engineers are taught to significantly increase the factor of safety when dealing with human safety ( I am a degreed Mechanical Engineer). Both of my failures in the brake lines occurred above the frame near the left front wheel. I have since removed all GM OEM brake lines and have replaced them SS or another corrosion resistant line that is available in New York State. Simply, the wrong material was selected by GM Engineering for their products in the markets in which they are sold. The quote from your dealer and GM shows their extreme lack of ignorance and lack of concern for their customers. Worse it shows their lack of technical expertise as they have now simply stated that they are incapable of designing, manufacturing and selling trucks for any US States where it snows. I would strongly suggest you check and replace other critical lines on your truck as these too have prematurely failed on my truck. They are: Fuel lines- my failure resulted in a leak under pressure causing a fine mist spray of fuel, luckily no flash fire. PS lines - if you have hydroboost, you lose your power steering AND your power brakes. This happened while towing my boat, luckily no accident. Also, if you have the auxiliary oil cooler ( option that may used on trucks with SNOW Plow packages-- ironic isn't it?) this line failure causes you to lose oil under pressure, luckily mine was caught in the parking lot, and I therefore did not destroy the engine. Another critical engineering item that GM is missing on the brake line failure is this. The weakened brake lines will probably work under normal driving for some time, but will catastrophically fail during a panic stop, when brake line pressure is higher. This makes the problem on the roads today much worse. This was my experience in both cases, and is also evidenced as true by all the accounts of failure that I have read.

    I will continue to post my fact based accounts of my actual events so that future accidents can be prevented and lives hopefully saved. I would appreciate it if GM contacted my directly, compensated me for the thousands of dollars in premature fluid line replacements and provide suitably engineered replacements to the trucks that are on the road today. At this point, a 35 year GM customer is no longer, as well as family. Dear GM Customer Service, this problem started under warranty and some lines were replaced at that time so this IS a design problem. Further, I am on the second round of replacements, proving it is not just a one off manufacturing defect. I would be happy to assist your engineering department if they are struggling to reproduce this in their labs. I know you have salt spray test labs and required life tests for your products, because I have personally worked in one of your facilities. I strongly suggest you bring this problem to your engineering department, and stop simply referring customers back to the dealer. If you drive a smaller car and have children in the back seat, ask yourself next time you see a GM truck close behind - does that truck have a brake line that is about to burst? Is the driver following to close, worse, is he towing a 10,000 lb load?
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Member Posts: 70
    Terrybill, If GM dealer used OEM lines, you may need to replace them again if you keep the truck for another 40,000 miles or 4 years. Mine too failed at about 45,000 miles and then another at 60,000 miles. I have replaced with corrosion resistant material. Check your oil cooler, fuel and power steering lines.
  • budnkris1budnkris1 Member Posts: 3
    On one hand, it's good to know you're not alone in this...on the other it sucks that so many are affected! Thanks for the response. Terrybill, I will contact him and anyone else that I find out about. It's not about the money at this point, but the safety of mine and everyone elses families that travel our roads. This includes the non owners who WILL BE affected when one of these trucks fails to stop and causes loss of property and/or (God forbid) LIFE!
  • budnkris1budnkris1 Member Posts: 3
    Mr Lash,
    I have already submitted a complaint to the NHTSA with little more than an automated response. The ODI # is 10414892. Attached are the pictures of my brake lines that failed due to extreme corrosion on my 2004 Siverado 2500HD. The current mileage is 63491. VIN #1GCHK23UX4F230932. I cannot understand why, with all the complaints, that your current investigation stops at 2003. This is NOT a normal failure. I have vehicles with over 200,000 miles on them that show no such corrosion on the brake lines. This is obviously an engineering failure.
    As an aircraft mechanic I know that all government safety standards are written in blood. Thank god my families was not spilled, but I know that someones will have to be to get the government to act! I was, as so many are, completely unaware of this issue until I had to look up the replacement parts. Low and behold, countless forum's erupted as a result my Google search for my truck model's brake lines. Why don't you put out at least a TSB? I'll tell you...no one wants to tarnish General Motors' reputation any further. Instead your division of government is satisfied to turn a blind eye ("Investigating" for 3 years) until someone is killed in a wreck caused by this failure. Then it will be, "This is a travesty, how could this have happened?" and the headlines will continue. These trucks weigh 9400 Lbs and routinely are towing something, so most likely, MORE THAN ONE FATALITY WILL BE INVOLVED! One of these trucks is most likely is behind you and your family every day.
    I know your hands are tied by beauracracy, but I implore you to do what is right. At minimum, force a TSB so people are not oblivious to this DEADLY defect. I refuse to believe that any human being could knowingly ignore the possibility of preventing even one fatality.
    I hope you understand that I am writing you this to ensure this stops happening, and that you expand the year models involved. Look at the forums. This is a widespead problem, further forward than 2003.

    Thank you for your attention to this matter.
  • concerned_dadconcerned_dad Member Posts: 1
    I just ran into the same problem this weekend and thank you all for the thread and information.

    My truck is a 2005 Silverado 2500HD with 22,000 miles. My regular mechanic said that they have seen this at least 20 times. Same rusted lines at the ABS unit under the driver’s door. I don't plow, it's obviously not my daily driver, and it has always been parked on a paved driveway.

    My nephew was using it to move firewood and I am so glad that he called me when he felt it wasn't stopping right instead of continuing. My mechanic is going to replace all the lines with a nickel/copper alloy product as well as the hoses and the calipers because the bleeders rusted completely off. $1500.00 estimate. There goes the vacation. I will start contacting the dealer, GM, and NHTSB tomorrow. I'm going to tell everyone I know.

    On a side note, my dad has a 2007 Silverado 1500 with 3 times the mileage. He lives 2 miles up the street, on top of a hill that gets extra "salt" in the winter and after a quick look under his truck I could see no rust; neither does my 2003 Camry which has over 115,000 miles and is my daily driver in most snow storms. (Fuel economy)

    Thanks for listening
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    concerned_dad,

    I apologize for the problems you are experiencing with your vehicle. Are you having the issue fixed by a GM dealership or an independent shop? Please keep me posted.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • bigterpbigterp Member Posts: 3
    that is exactly how I 'fixed' my brake problems with my 2001 Silverado
  • gmc_jamesgmc_james Member Posts: 2
    I have an 03 GMC 1500 Z71 with just over 200,000 miles. Bought it used at 140k - do not have contact with previous owner anymore. It was a great truck for the previous owner who switched to a DuraMax for all his hiway time and better mileage.

    The ABS engages at about 5-7 mph just before it comes to a stop. It still stops ok since ABS only affects the front and fresh brake disc pads all fours, plus new front rotors and emergency shoes at 193k. But this is really bugging me. If I hit the brakes HARD it doesn't do it, just when stopping normally or even very gently.

    I just had the ignition switch replaced which was causing power loss to the fuse box on specific circuits that caused the blower motor to quit, ABS light, brake light, and service 4wd message, and no 4wd. That was that way for a few months since nobody local wanted to mess with it and the dealer is 45 minutes.

    All that is fixed, but now that the abs is working it is engaging incorrectly. I have driven over 150 miles and still doing it. I had a wheel bearing clicking after long highway runs at 165K so I replaced both hub assemblies without changing wheel speed sensors. Then got a abs light last year and I changed a wheel speed sensor to fix that. I am getting no codes or lights.

    From all the posts, it sounds like I should clean my wheel speed indicators and the mounting on the hub, then check hubs for wear/slop, then check vehicle speed sensor in transmission. Anything I should add?
  • gmc_jamesgmc_james Member Posts: 2
    My 03 GMC Z1 is over 200k in NC with light to medium road salt exposure. It has none of the rusting issues mentioned. I will check plant and manufacture date and get back to you all. There must be a common denominator. We have had a half dozen HDs, 1500s or Z1's between family and friends many with 100k+, mine with 200k+. None with these problems.

    As for service, it all depends on the dealer and their mechanics. Some are amazing and some are as dumb and helpful as a box of rocks. Just sayin'.
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Member Posts: 70
    You may want to consider NOT using your GM dealer as their brake lines are obviously faulty and they don't seem to be offering an alternative. The nickel alloy product was also used on my tuck and so far so good. The rest of my lines were replaced with SS, also not available from GM. I have noticed the newer GMs have a coating on the brake lines, but those that are few years older will just continue to fail unexpectedly. Oh well, it's just the brakes on a 5,000 lb truck, no big deal right?
  • harleyd00harleyd00 Member Posts: 2
    A little while ago my ABS brakes started working even when it didn't need to. I pulled the fuse and now the lights are on all the time. Is the brake module seperate from the pump? or do I have to change the whole thing. Cool it be just a wheel sensor? Seeems like everything that goes wrong with my 2002 Gmc is a common condition!
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    at 98,000 miles, I pulled my fuse over a yr ago, after senors checked, hubs changed, master cylinder replaced, The ABS light stays on, no problem with brakes since. I was at the point to never drive the truck again and take it to the auction as I would not be able to sell it to someone knowing it had this problem. Seems from this forum and my friend who is a chevy dealer mechanic, this is better than spending $1000's as there is no actual certain fix, sensors, hubs, brake lines. who knows. Had the Chevy recall to clean sensors , forget when that was, 2-3 yrs ago, , that didn't help. Dealer said bring it in again and expect at least a $1200 fix or more.

    2002 Chevy 4x4 pick up,
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    Hateful Jim here- My truck, the 2001 silverado that hit the pole at lowes, once upon a time, the truck would just up and decide it wouldnt crank. Wouldnt do Nuthin', Not all the time, mind you, just sometimes. Chevy said they couldnt find anything wrong with it, NO CODES, NOTHING!! After 3 times in the shop at GM, we told the Chevy Mechanic "TAKE IT HOME AND DRIVE IT FOR A WHILE"--
    ABOUT 2 weeks later, the mechanic got up, and went to get in to work, and guess what?? That was finally fixed, but some things never change.
    GM DOESNT HAVE A CLUE!! I like what you said about there being "NO ACTUAL CERTAIN FIX", cause thats EXACTLY correct. They cant fix it, cause they dont know what the problem is, just like my "Service 4wd" light. After changing BOTH MOTORS, AND THE SELECTOR SWITCH, I Finally got that fixed, but Chevy couldnt find anything wrong with THAT EITHER. GO FIGURE!!
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Member Posts: 70
    and GM Customer Service and GM Engineering ( ???) sit idly by watching previously loyal owners spend cash and frustration on poorly designed parts that repeatedly fail ( eg steering col shafts and sensors), trucks the mysteriously won't start, trucks that suddenly don't stop and dashboards that electrically go haywire at 81,000 miles. But heh, they offered to fix that dash as long as you don't go over 70,000 miles. Most successful engineers learn from their designs and improve their performance and reliability. I am now resigned to the fact that GM just clads the same truck with some redesigned sheetmetal and then hires a new marketing firm.

    GMCustSERV --here is one last clue--Upset customers that call to complain are much better than customers that never call again. Pick up the PHONE!
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    Hateful Jim here, I graduated in 1979 and bought a new 79' Silverado, then i bought a used 83' silverado , an 87 Silverado "pre-owned", a 93 Silverado "pre-owned", then bought a NEW 2000 extended cab Silverado, but had to part with it, and NOW i have the 2001 Silverado.
    Over the span of 32 years, i have had 5 Silverados, (but the 2000, and the 2001 are the only ones that have given me any problems). I've been a DIE-HARD Chevy man all my life!!, but- AND THATS A REALLY BIG BUT-- With the "Stimulus" we gave GM, on top of the cost of their new trucks, then add on the " I DONT CARE" ATTITUDE you get from GM, and the in-ability to ADMIT that there's a problem ( or un-willingness to admit that theres a problem), not to mention that when you take your truck in there, they try to make you look and feel STUPID- Add all that together, and what i come up with is- I'M DONE WITH GM. I wont even buy a USED chevy from now on. Ford didnt take ANY stimulus, my next truck may just have to be a USED FORD.
  • vocalmeistervocalmeister Member Posts: 1
    You sound sooooo informed! Did you ever find a picture or diagram for me to recognize these parts or have any other helpful information for me. I can do the front brakes no problem, but my 2005 Chevy Silverado Duramax Diesel Dually needs the rear pads and rotors replaced-I am a visual, but I will follow your instructions posted here WITH diagram if possible.
    Thanks so much!!!
  • jaxtixjaxtix Member Posts: 1
    The costs to repair all the problems are astronomical; unless you are a do it yourself type. Since it is a 2500HD it may be worth fixing up depending on the body/interior etc. My GMC is a 2000 1500 Z71. We have no salt etc.down here and the backing plates are in excellent condition. (new aftermarket
    ones are available in a two piece design so you don't have to pull the axle to replace them, at least for 1500's) Why GM doesn't use better grade material is, well that's just GMC. Mine only has 50k miles and is garaged etc. All that aside it drives great and really is more of a car than a truck.
    The problems I've encountered are: ABS failure nearly resulting in rear ending another vehicle; Parking brake design (premature wearout) is a joke and typical of GM engineering(they are not smart enough to correct it so they went back to drum brakes (rear) in'05. Spongy brake system even after repeated flushing; intake manifold gasket failure. (new aftermarket fixed that). The roof on the extended cab is flexy (newer ones have stress ridges in it). If you fix up the '99 You may want to remove the fender flares and see if there is rust under there.
    So even after correcting all the problems on your '99 it could drop the crank sensor (99's did that) and if I had waited until Toyota came out with a full size p/u I'd never have a GMC. And I'll never buy another. A GMC/Chevy mechanic (small town) tells me that the Trucks are nothing compared to the new smaller SUV's. They get at least 10 a day in for problems.

    Oh yes my Sierra has Mexican springs and Chinese tail gate cables. Lord knows what's lurking up under the dash. Good luck to you. Hope you get two new Toyota's!!!!!! jaxtix
  • chrisinesteschrisinestes Member Posts: 2
  • chrisinesteschrisinestes Member Posts: 2
    What can I do about the terrible brakes on my truck?

    The pedel squishes to the floor. I've replaced the master cylinder, rotors, & pads & ABS module... and they are only slightly better. It's been properly bled several times. There are no leaks. The wheels are OEM. The tires aren't over-sized. It's like the master cylinder isn't pushing enough fluid to the calipers. Is there a master cyilinder that pushes a larger volume of fluid?

    Any ideas for me?
    Chris
  • 2500hd32500hd3 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem on an 02 2500HD. I have the parking brake peddle unit off and don't see where that spring goes.

    Did you ever get yours figured out?
  • calpatcalpat Member Posts: 2
    Hi Laura, I have had the same problem with my 09 GMC Sierra. I'm in the process of having the rear brakes replaced again. This is either # 9 or 10th time they have machined my rear drums or replaced them, along with the shoes. They also replaced the front rotors and pads. I'm out of warranty now but was told by customer service GM Canada that they would help me if I have further problems. Could you contact me so I can get this nightmare over with and fixed properly!
    Thanks Pat
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    calpat,

    I apologize for the problems you are experiencing with your vehicle. Unfortunately, I am unable to assist customers outside of the United States. I would encourage you to contact GM of Canada directly at 1-800-263-3777. Hours: M-F 7:30am - 11:30pm, Sat 7:30am - 6:00 EST.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • calpatcalpat Member Posts: 2
    Thank you Caron, I have talk to GM Canada, this will be the third case I have opened with them. They claim to have no knowledge of any other truck having the issues I have had with the brakes. There is a bigger problem than just changing the drums and shoe's every 3-4 months. That is just a band-aide! I see that you have had customers with the same problem and I would like to know what the fix is? I believe it has to do with the proportioning valve or the traction control/ anti lock system. The rear brakes are getting to hot and warping the drums. Could you talk with my GM rep? Her name is Giselle, Ext. 2320 and her hours of work are 3:30pm to 11pm.
    PS. I've also had replaced
    - Throttle Control Valve and Gas pedal
    - Power steering rack
    - Front & Back bumpers replaced do to rust
    - Front rotors and pads
    - Rear drums turned(machined) x 3
    - rear shoes replaced x 8
    - rear drums replaced x 6
    - all tires rebalanced shortly after purchase
    - All windows re-adjusted due to looseness.
    - Rear main seal on the back of the engine leaking, transmission has to be removed for this repair. (Scheduled to be repaired Sept. 28/2011)
    - I'm now 6000 miles over warranty.
    There is more but it was minor.

    This is my first GM ! Nobody wants to fix the real problem.
  • motiggermotigger Member Posts: 2
    Hello all. I hope no one jumps down my throat for not having read the multitude of posts here as I ask my question....but.....here goes.

    My 19 year old nephew has a 1997 GMC Sierra 2WD Extended cab pickup. It's got over 100,000 miles on it and for the most part he has had nothing go wrong with it until now. Over the past couple of weeks he has begun to experience the ABS and BRAKE lights coming on...when they do...the truck lurches as if it's wanting to die....but doesn't. However occasionally when he pulls to a stop at a stoplight it will die. We took it to a mechanic who put it on a diagnostic and found nothing. They checked the master cylinder and brake lines and found nothing either. I think it might be the fuel filter or fuel pump causing the very intermittent stalling. I had him fill the tank with gas and put a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in it...he says it runs better and hasn't stalled, but the ABS/BRAKE lights still come on occasionally and the truck lurches.

    Anyone have any ideas?

    I just don't want my nephew getting stranded and not knowing what to do.

    Thanks for your help.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    You could start by cleaning the ABS sensors.
  • jmrtyjmrty Member Posts: 1
    I had the same eaxct problem went through about 3 grand in replacement brakes and parts. I unhooked the abs under the truck. Then i unhooked the fuse under the hood. Then when that didnt work i replaced the master cylinder. seems to be fine now.
  • motiggermotigger Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the information. Just took it to the shop and they said it was the ABS speed control module going out. The fluid leaking was from corroded supply and return high pressure cooling connections.....all totaled $700....let's hope this solves the problem.

    Again...thanks so much for your advice, etc.
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Member Posts: 70
    While you are at it, check your brake lines, especially on the frame mount near the front drivers wheel. These are known to fail there and the problem is being investigated by NHTSA. Repair the lines and minimize the risk of a bad accident as they are known to fail during a hard stop. I am speaking from experience on my 2003, and others have reported the same failure mode. Both front and rear lines fail there. You can save your receipt and at least take pictures of the lines if they are corroded there. The NHTSA will take the info, and maybe someday we will be compensated for this unfortunate design defect. Apparently newer GMs now have the proper coating, as I assume they have used a poor composition of steel.
  • domino4domino4 Member Posts: 2
  • domino4domino4 Member Posts: 2
    not sure why all four brake calipers are sticking,i have tried removing the calipers and pushing the pistons back in with a sea clamp,but they seem to be working,the calipers just won't release off the rotors.they get extremely hot and sizzle when water hit them,brakes have cracked from the heat.this has slowed the truck down a lot.
  • pattipie3pattipie3 Member Posts: 25
    I was wondering if you have heard anything back from people ragarding a class action lawsuit? I am NOT a lawyer, but I am desperately trying to find info. on starting a class action suite against GM. My husband almost got into a very bad accident because brakes went out completely ( rusted out ) Then while they are fixing brakes, we are told most of the frame is rusted out. I have seen hundreds of these postings and would really like to find a way to get everyone on board for a lawsuit. ANY information you can give me would be great. thank you
    Patti
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Patti,

    I am sorry to hear about your experience. Did you ever have a case with customer assistance regarding your concern. We would be happy to look into this for you with more information. Please feel free to contact Christina by email. Thank you.

    Tricia, GM Customer Service.
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    I've been following this blog for 2 yrs, I got no where with dealer(s). Who is Christina and what is her email ? or better yet, a phone number. Just from my experience, if you are with GM and do give a crap, why don't you tell GM or have Gm actually contact all the people they sent the recall to 4-5 yrs ago ?
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Member Posts: 70
    Tricia,
    How would we go about contacting GM Customer service to be compensated for the early brake line failures? I had two rusted out lines in one particular area, but the entire lines severely corroded on a 2003, first within 4.5 years. My expenses to replace all lines was approximately $1300. Luckily, I was able to avoid 2 collisions, but it is was close. It would be helpful. to say the least, if GM did compensate us for this. How do we go about it? I have receipts, pictures and some of my old lines.
    Thanks,
    Ed
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    barnowl3,
    Thank you for your post. Can you please email me your complete contact information including mailing address, VIN, current mileage, and involved dealer? I look forward to your response. Enjoy your weekend!
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
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