Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Did the problems begin after the stereo swap?
about 2 months.
Start by pulling the electrical connections and see if that clears the other problems.
Just thought of something. I have found times when the instructions on an aftermarket stereo showed connections to wires of specific color, but they get the colors wrong. So, even though you follow the instructions exactly, it still doesn't work. You might check out the wiring diagram in the back of a Haynes (or equivalent) manual and see if the diagram matches the instructions.
Jim
but just wondering, could it be that the Orange(Illumination)wire, and the Red(Acc)wire,
are reversed for some weird reason even though I followed the intructions//put the colors properly together??
Check on some of the parts houses and see if you can get a manual with wiring diagram. I am thinking more and more that a color mapping error has caught you.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
My problem is even when my turn signals are off it still keeps clicking. My brake lights all work and I've changed the turn signal flasher($12) behing the glove box.. It hasn't fixed my problem.. It keeps either clicking or making a weird buzzing sound.. Help me please.. Just a girl trying to fix her car..:-)
Michelle
I DIDENT DO IT I swear............The Jimmy germlin ??
My freind was happy I finshed my part quick Iam sitting there driver in hand looking like ??????????
Anyway what can I look for and any and all help is needed.New here and this is MY first Jimmy.Thanks Vernon
The stalk has some of the switches in it, and actuates others in the column.
Thanks
Just re-read your post. Does it start immediately if you jumper it?
There is also a crankshaft position sensor on the front of the engine, bottom side by the crankshaft pully. While this *should* set a code if bad, it doesn't always. Voice of experience on that one! I would try the same trick of blowing the hair drier on the sensor (it is an external sensor that shuts off spark if it thinks the engine is not turning) and see what you get.
I am all about trouble shooting instead of parts swapping. Assuming all the ignition parts were reconnected correctly, the likelyhood of six bad sparkplugs is right up there with winning the lottery. Without buying a ticket.
Haven't tried jumping it yet. It crossed my mind, but since it cranks so hard, I ruled it out. I guess it's worth a shot.
Talked to a GMC dealer, who immediately suggested the fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump. Like I said, it's getting plenty of fuel in the cylinder, but if the pressure regulator is flooding it, then that'd give me the same problem, so I think I'll heat up the FPR, too. He also suggested a vacuum leak, which the mechanic had already ruled out.
I agree on the plug thing--he's convinced I have a voltage problem, and wants to try that, or at least pulling and cleaning them. I just don't see it.
Thanks again; I'll be sure and post the solution (assuming I find it). And I'll gladly take more suggestions.
Not saying water is the problem here, but just to keep an open mind about what looks right but may not be. Seems half of troubleshooting these newer electronic systems is observation and logic.
I *think* it was indeed the fuel pressure regulator (FPR), though I can't say with 100% certainty.
I didn't have an extension cord long enough to reach the parking lot, so I filled a large Zip-loc bag with hot water and set it over top of the FPR and left it for about 20-30 minutes. It fired right up. The reason I'm not certain the problem was the FPR is because we've warmed up a bit here--it was probably almost 45 F when I did this (it was not starting at about 40 and under). So, it might have been the FPR, or it might have been some other part that was warm enough at 45.
I thought about trying to start it without first warming up the FPR, but I knew that if it didn't start I was going to flood it, and I was afraid it wouldn't start even after I'd warmed it up.
I went ahead and ordered a new FPR, but I think spring has sprung, and I won't know for sure if that was the problem until next winter.
Mechanic said there was no ignition system problems, but the fuel pressure was 45-50 lbs. From reading other posts, this could be an issue. Any suggestions?
I have had to buy off-brand ignition parts before when caught in an out of the way location and was surprised to see the difference. Even a set of points for something as common as a Ford 200ci 6cyl seemed simple enough until they flew apart at a screaming 3000RPM.
Glad you are up and running, and hope that cures the gremlin.
Can anyone advise where I should start or where to locate some likely causes? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
bobby
I know I just went through it myself.
The turn Signal Switch incorporates the Hazard Switch, High and Low beam headlights, Windshield Wiper speed, intermittent, and washer spray contacts along with the Cruise Control if so equipped.
This is usually caused by excessive carbon build-up in the Turn Signal portion of the switch switch on the steering column itself.
It's not too, too hard to replace the switch if your good with tools and patience.
Just remember that there are more than one "Turn Signal Switch" produced for these vehicles, "extended build" and "option code" variables.
The switch may even be opened to clean out the carbon build up on the contacts inside the switch, but you have to be very diligent in attempting this repair.
I personally at the time, did not want to try to open the switch only because I couldn't afford to be without the vehicle. You have to open the drivers side of the dash and drop the steering wheel. I know sometimes the way Murphy's Law works and I would have been on the bad side of Murphy.
The Dealership wanted over $600.00 to do the job, $280.00 for the Switch itself.
Cost me $220.00 for the new switch from a site on the internet which included expedited shipping and 3+ hours of my time. I got the switch in 24 hours, would have been 2 days from the dealer. The switch is OEM too.
After installing the new switch I decided to open and repair the switch, which was LOADED with carbon build-up in the Turn Signal portion of the switch.
Now I have an extra switch.
There are plenty of sites on the web where you can get the switch, but like I said make sure it's the correct one for the Vehicle.
GOOD LUCK!
I truly hope this does not upset the Hosts or Moderators of the site, If it does I apologize. I tried to understand the terms of the site but I'm a Mechanic, not a an Attorney or I would have posted the site I did business with.
To blow a 20 amp on contact, you have a hard short. Shouldn't be too hard to find. Look at the wiring around the lighter, and under the dash for any cuts, jumpers, modifications, that sort of thing. Did the car have a custom audio system that was removed before selling? Or an electric brake controller for trailer brakes?
Jim