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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems

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  • bobbyb96bobbyb96 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy and I noticed that things are starting to either short out, or blow out. I've checked all the fuses and they all seem to be fine. What I have noticed is that my LED tail light has refused to work for some time. Not exactly sure how to check whether it has gone bad or what. Another thing is the lights for my Gearshift Display (R, N, D, 3, 2, 1) does not illuminate anymore, along with 4 of the 6 channel buttons for the stock stereo. Any ideas? Thanks, Bobby
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Okay, could be dealing with a couple of things here, but one that could be common is a bad voltage regulator in the alternator. If you are getting voltage spikes, or high voltage, you can shorten the life of the bulbs. Find a good voltage meter and check the voltage at the battery with the engine off, and then running. Off should be around 12.6VDC, and running should be around 13.8V to 14.4VDC.

    If the entire LED light is out, it could have been damaged by high voltage, but that is not likely. Check your owners manual and see if there is a specific fuse for the third brake light.
  • ironhorse8ironhorse8 Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 Blazer has started having problems with the electrical display. The right side signal light comes on, but does not flash. The left side signal light comes on but flashes at double the normal rate (like a bulb was burned out), unless I hit the Hazard Light switch for a few seconds, then it goes back to normal.

    Also, more recently, the ABS and Parking lights will sometimes light up on the dash, unless I shut off the engine and restart. Then it all works fine. Any help would be appreciated.
  • ronchaseronchase Member Posts: 1
    recently my left rear break/blinker fuse began blowin, i changed bulbs, flasher, taped harness wires leaving jack compartment to left tail-light assembly; and looked for any bare wires to ground. still kept blowing fuse when i did any of 3 things; activate 4 way, break, or left turn. Then after a few weeks, both left and right fuses began blowin not necessarily at same time but sometimes yes. Now for about a week my left has stopped blowin and the right is not doing it as often. When the fuses blew i never lost running lights or the led break light over rear hatch. Thanks for any help.
  • bear19bear19 Member Posts: 3
    I just found out today that I need the multifunction switch on my 1997 Blazer replaced. The dealership that I talked to wants about $600.00 for the part and the labor. I plan on trying to replace it myself. Anyone out there have any suggestions for me??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Doesn't look that easy. Book calls for 2.8 hours labor and the part is $$$ and varies with whether or not you have tilt and cruise control.

    Here's the procedure if you are interested:

    REMOVAL
    Remove or disconnect the following:

    1. Make sure the lever is in the center or "Off" position.
    2. Negative battery cable.
    3. Disable the SIR system. (Supplemental Inflatable Restraint )
    4. Inflator module.
    5. Tilt wheel lever.
    6. Horn contact (if equipped with SIR).
    7. Horn pad assembly (if not equipped with SIR).
    8. Steering wheel nut.
    9. Steering wheel using a steering wheel puller.
    10. Knee bolster.
    11. Loosen steering column bracket nuts.
    12. Two TORX(R) head screws from lower column cover.
    13. Lower column cover. Tilt cover down and slide back to disengage locking tabs.
    14. Two TORX(R) head screws from upper column cover.
    15. Steering column lock set.
    16. Upper column cover.
    17. Two wire harness straps from steering column wire harness.
    18. Retainer CPA (Connector Position Assurance) and connector from BTSI. (Brake Transmission Shift Interlock )
    19. Steering column bulkhead connector from vehicle wire harness.
    20. Gray and black connectors of switch from column bulkhead connector.
    21. Two TORX(R) head screws on switch.
    22. Multifunction turn signal/hazard switch.

    INSTALLATION

    CAUTION: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion Inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.

    Install or connect the following:

    1. Multifunction turn signal/hazard switch.

    o Use small blade screwdriver to compress electrical contact and move multifunction switch into position.
    o Electrical contact must rest on cancelling cam assembly.

    2. Two TORX(R) head screws on switch. Tighten to 6 Nm (53 inch lbs.) .
    3. Gray and black connectors of switch to column bulkhead connector.
    4. Steering column bulkhead connector to vehicle wire harness.
    5. Connector and retainer CPA to BTSI.
    6. Two wire straps on steering column wire harness.
    7. Upper column cover.
    8. Steering column bracket nuts. Tighten to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) .
    9. Knee bolster.
    10. Steering column cylinder lock set.
    11. Two TORX(R) head screws to upper column cover. Tighten to 1.4 Nm (12 inch lbs.) .
    12. Lower column cover.
    13. Two TORX(R) head screws to lower column cover. Tighten to 6 Nm (53 inch lbs.) .
    14. Make sure the lever is in the center or "OFF" position.
    15. Steering wheel onto the steering shaft.
    16. Steering wheel nut. Tighten to 40 Nm (29 ft. lbs.) .
    17. Horn pad assembly (if not equipped with SIR).
    18. Horn contact (if equipped with SIR).
    19. Inflator module.
    20. Tilt wheel lever.
    21. Negative battery cable.
    22. Enable the SIR system (if equipped).
  • tigers02tigers02 Member Posts: 1
    My problem sounds exactly like yours...left the tailgate open the other night in the rain and now the pushbutton, power locks, and rear hatch actuator operate intermittently. I dissassembled everything but couldn't figure out how to remove the pushbutton/lock assembly for cleaning. This post was a year old but do you remember how to remove the lock.
  • bear19bear19 Member Posts: 3
    We found out that our problem was the flasher for the 4-ways and the flasher for the turn signals. Luckily the parts store would take back the multi-purpose switch that I bought.I found out that the multi-purpose switch can be removed and replaced without pulling the steering column. A #25 torx bit might have to be modified to get one screw out, but if you take your time, it can be done. A #5 internal torx soccet is also needed. Thank you for your help, and I hope this will help someone. (The switch alone cost about $200.00!)
  • mvicarsmvicars Member Posts: 1
    I'm also having the same problem on my 97 GMC Jimmy. I suspect the grounds but I haven't verified it. Have you fixed the problem yet? What was the fix?
  • tommyj2tommyj2 Member Posts: 2
    97 GMC Jimmy with a V6 Vortec, motor was bought from Advance and has around 40000 miles. I didn't put the motor in, it was already installed when I bought it. Hope someone can help me with this miss problem, I will try to explain it the best that I can. First off, new plugs, new plug wires, new coil pack, fuel filter and air filter. Catalytic converter has been removed. No Check engine light is on. The vehicle starts perfect and idles perfect, but when you go up a hill it sometimes has a bad hesitation like you are letting off the fuel back and forth, give it more gas and it quits. Then sometimes on flat ground at 55 mph it does the same thing. Sometimes I can pull into a parking lot at 3 mph or at an idle and the motor has a violent stutter to it. That has only happened twice. So can anyone enlighten me on this subject??
  • mwolf9000mwolf9000 Member Posts: 29
    Have you checked the fuel pressure from the fuel pump?
  • judastouchjudastouch Member Posts: 7
    How's the inside of the distributor cap look? GMC issued a recall/repair on the distributors--the bottoms of the units themselves have little apertures covered with metal screens. (If memory serves, the apertures were to provide ventilation and the screens to keep road debris from getting into the distributor.) The screens trap moisture, which causes the inside of the cap to corrode, and causes misfiring similar to what you're describing.

    If the inside of the cap is corroded, pull the distributor and yank out those screens.

    Previous poster's question about fuel pressure is also a good one--check your fuel pressure.
  • ealvarezealvarez Member Posts: 7
    I had a similar problem with my 98 GMC Jimmy and after a while stop running all together it turned out to be the fuel pump inside the tank. Pump is about $280, Good luck
  • ealvarezealvarez Member Posts: 7
    My Jimmy was running fine one day next day It was hesitating and not shifting on time and when shift into reverse the truck would not move. Can someone tell me If Im going to need a new transmission or maybe a filter and fluid change will take care of this problem?
  • badassken2004badassken2004 Member Posts: 2
    I'm having the same problem with my 97, Did you figure it out?
  • badassken2004badassken2004 Member Posts: 2
    Took out brake light switch went back to get tools. I opened back hatch and my center light came on puzzled. Can any 1 help
  • dolphin1dolphin1 Member Posts: 11
    Hello,

    The directional/cruise control signal arm on my 2000 Chevy Blazer fails to stay engaged when making a left turn. Any step-by-step help in replacing the arm would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you
  • dolphin1dolphin1 Member Posts: 11
    Nevermind....I found MR.Shiftright's procedure outlined in reply #328.

    Thanks
  • bear19bear19 Member Posts: 3
    I replaced the multifunction switch, but that didn't fix the problem. I replaced the turn signal flasher and the 4-way flasher and that worked. I haven't had any trouble since. Except now the back hatch light won't stay on when just the hatch is open. I hope this helped you.
  • eustacemeustacem Member Posts: 1
    Hi all, I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer that suddenly died one night without warning. It was already parked for about 4 hours, and when my wife attempted to start it, nothing happened. At first we thought it was a dead battery since the security light was flashing, but nothing else worked. When we turned on the head lights or blew the horn, the security light would die out. Even after charging up this battery, replacing it with a new one, checking all of the fuses (they were all good), even had two mechanics run a tester on it, there is absolutely NO power running through the system. Sometimes when the hood is open the hood light will come on but as soon as ANYTHING else is engaged it will die out. Any ideas? This is "driving" me nuts.
  • mwolf9000mwolf9000 Member Posts: 29
    It could be that your battery ground cable isn't working properly. You could check the connection at each end and possibly replace it.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    I had engine miss under a slight load because of a weak ignition. I determined it was a loose positive battery cable end clamp.

    Do not install those aftermarket end-clamps because they are just a temporary repair. If your AC Delco battery cable clamps are old or they are those aftermarket type clamps, replace them with new AC Delco side terminal battery cables and install a AC Delco 75-60 battery. A new AC Delco positive battery cable is somewhat difficult to replace if you want to route it the same way the original cable was routed. Unfortunately, that is about the only way you can route the positive battery cable in order to clear the exhaust system and attach it to the starter. .
  • ccbeckeccbecke Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    I have a 1998 Chevy Blazer. First the windshield wipers were acting funny, they sometimes wont stop after I turn them on. Then the blinker on the right side keeps acting like it is on intermittently. Then the dome lights quit working and now the light that lights up where you push the button to put it into 4WD or 2WD is not working, and so it is stuck in 2WD. I need 4WD because it gets very icy and snowy here in Wyoming. Can all these things be related? A friend tried a new cylinoid and a new computer box, but still no luck. Please help me!!
  • guard278thguard278th Member Posts: 1
    im having the same problem did you get a answer
  • ccbeckeccbecke Member Posts: 3
    Unfortunately, no one at all has responded. Kinda upsetting. I really need the help.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    calm down, fellas. Lots of us were travelling.

    Okay, lets break this down. Wipers won't turn off, turn signal issue. Probably a bad multifunction switch there on the column. There have also been issues with wipers in the past where the solder joint of the connector on the circuit board of the wiper motor assembly cracks. You unplug the harness, remove the cover, and check the connector for cracked joints. Clean, resolder, reassemble. Don't need to replace the board, it will work when resoldered. Done lots of these.

    Dome lights. Does anything turn them on? Any door, or the switch on the instrument panel?

    The 2WD/4WD issue can be a bad solenoid at the transfer case, or a bad vacuum line. Others with 4WD have seen this issue, try searching for it.

    Hazard and brake lights are on the same circuit, at least partially. Both go through the flasher unit behind the dash, and guess what, they also go through that little multifunction switch mentioned earlier.

    So, it sounds like most of your problems are related to the servo engagement circuit for the 4WD, and the multifunction switch in the steering column. There is a detailed procedure on changing the switch on the previous page.

    Hope that helps.
  • ccbeckeccbecke Member Posts: 3
    Sorry.....and thank you very much for your help.
  • dfohrdfohr Member Posts: 1
    Hi all -- I have an '02 Blazer. The top LED brake light the left rear brake light are not working, but turn signals and hazards work fine....could this also be related to a bad multi function switch I'm reading about here or is there anything else that someone has heard of that might fix this.....open to any and all suggestions. Thanks
  • Jimmy123Jimmy123 Member Posts: 1
    This one really puzzles me. While driving and once while parked, no keys in ignition. The interior lights come on and shut off by themselves. If I park the jimmy for a couple of days the battery runs down flat. I had the dealer try to find the problem on three different occasions. They said the battery is ok and they could not find a parasitic load. I am really puzzled on this one searching for answers.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    It may be:

    There is a intermitten short causing a batttery drain. When the battery was checked for a battery drain, the short was not present. My 1991 Blazer had a battery drain and it was found to be a bad power door lock relay. The bad relay completely discharged the battery after I did not drive the vehicle for five days. Bad relays are common causes of battery drains.

    Replace:
    The on/off- dome light dimmer switch..
    The door switches.

    They are inexpensive. See if doing that solves the problem.
  • buffalochic74buffalochic74 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Jimmy 4x4 its not the battery its my electrical system but l dont know where or what. My lights act funny, one power window gets stuck sometimes, wipers change their own pace, the power reves up my engine sometimes, and my truck died at a light the other night and l couldnt get my speed up to more than 20mph so got it home and havent moved it since. lt starts up just fine but doesnt like to drive anywhere with gasping. lm taking it to the mechanic of course but l wanted to know if anyone else had these problems its never happened before. :sick:
  • jthompson5jthompson5 Member Posts: 1
    Would someone help me in understanding how my wipers work only on High? Everything else on the multifunction switch works... I already plugged in a new wiper motor (which includes circuit board). Do I need a new multifunction switch and if so, are they somewhat easy to install?

    I have a 1998 Chevy blazer.

    Thanks for the help..
  • Wrench54Wrench54 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1995 Chevy Blazer and since the weather has gotten very cold here, the interior lights will not shut off automatically as they should unless the vehicle is really warm. Is there a sensor inside the vehicle or in the electrical system that may have been contaminated by some moisture? Also, even though the indicator light on the button lights up, my "Hi 4 wheel drive' will not engage. Any ideas??
    Wrench54
  • 94blazer94blazer Member Posts: 5
    My issue is this. Last sunday, my blazer broke down in the middle of an intersection. I was able to get the truck out of the way so I could figure out what the issue was. At first, I thought it was the alternator since the one I had was an original. But, that didn't work. Then, I thought it was my battery. No dice. So, i had to have it towed back to my house. While I was watching my truck go on the flatbed, one of the drivers told me that either something got wet underneath, or there was a short somewhere. So, I waited until Monday to see if "drying out" would work. Nope. Come to find out, the aluminum part of the starter broke in two. Great!! So, I bought a new one, and put it in on Tuesday. I charged the battery (cause it went dead in the process between Sunday and Tuesday), and everything worked!! Yes!! So, I drove it for a little bit, and parked it for the night. I didn't drive the truck for two days, but when I started it up on Friday, everything was in working order. I dropped my kids off, and proceeded to go out for a while. I hit a little bit of snow (by the way, I live in Connecticut), but nothing really happened. That is, until I got to my wife's job, which was about 10 miles away. When I tried to turn into her parking area, it stalled. Hmm. I turned it off and started it up again. Hmm. Must've been a fluke. I left her job after a while, and went to a couple more places. I went to turn into another parking lot, and it stalled again. Hmm. Now, my senses are really up. Turn it off, start it up, do what I have to do. I go down the road a bit, come to a red light, and it stalls again!! Okay, now I'm getting mad. Turn off, turn on, keep it moving. I went to another light, and I'll be damned if it happen to me for a fourth time. Oh, for the love of... well, you get the point. At this point, every time I go to stop at a light, I put it in neutral and keep the engine semi-revved up so it won't stall. I did that for a little while, until things started working fine again. I park somewhere, I get out, get back in, start up and go. Needless to say, I got all my work done and everything worked out fine. Until I tried to start my truck to go to work on Saturday. It won't start. The freaking battery is drained again. So, I had to leave it until today. I tried looking at everything possible that I can think of or look up in my Haines book. I looked underneath where the starter was, and the power wire for the starter was split open, and there was a couple of places where it looked like it sparked out. I put loom over the wire to protect it, and charged the battery, but it still won't turn over. It just kills everything and takes a lot out of the battery. There's 12v's going to the starter and the alternator, so it's not lacking power. So, what the hell can it be? I'm sorry that this thing is long, but I was told that if you tell someone your problem, and don't leave anything out, that they may be able to help narrow down the issues from the beginning, instead of asking alot of follow-up questions. Plus, this story might give you a quick laugh out of my mishap. Go ahead. I'm used to it. :confuse:
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    Possibilities:
    1.) Are the ignition and positive battery cable connections on the starter clean and tight?
    2.) Is the positive cable on the battery clean and tight?
    3.) When was the last time you replaced the fuel filter?
    4.) The fuel pump inside the tank may be failing and must be replaced along with the in-tank wiring harness and screen.
    5.) The fuel pressure regulator may be failing.
    Unfortunately the fuel pressure regulator is a intergral part of the MPI (Mmulti- Port Injection) system and is located under the intake manifold top section. You can replace the pressure regulator without replacing the MPI system (spider) by installing a Dorman #55162 (retail $36.99) fuel pressure regulator. As far as I know Dorman is the only company that offers a fuel prssure regulator that is separate from the entire MPI (Multi-Port Injector) for the MPI system.

    Be advised: The entire MPI system (GM-17113673) including the fuel pressure regulator has a MSRP of $577.49 plus about $200 labor to replace it. If the pressure regulator is bad, just replace the OEM regulator with the Dorman #55162 regulator.
  • 94blazer94blazer Member Posts: 5
    Thank you very much. I'm going to try that today.
  • mwolf9000mwolf9000 Member Posts: 29
    Interior lights: You might check the button in each door that tells your interior lights that the door is open or closed. One may be stuck.

    4WD: Vacuum lines or switch gone bad?
  • 94blazer94blazer Member Posts: 5
    I'm taking the advise that duntov has given me as far as changing the fuel pressure regulator. I took off all of the bolts around the intake manifold and unpugged everything that was in the way. But, of course, I run into a brick wall. This truck, being 14 years old, has never had the intake manifold taken off. So, it's on there tighter than glue. I picked up a can of gasket remover and applied it on in hopes of it to eat its way through the gasket. That didn't work. Does anybody know what to use so I can take this manifold off without breaking it? :sick:
  • 94blazer94blazer Member Posts: 5
    I fixed my issue with my 94 blazer not starting. Come to find out that the starter that I put in 2 weeks ago was defective. So, now I have a new problem. I had my truck running pretty good for the past couple of days. I had my check engine light on but I pretty much knew what it was. So, today I go out to check and see if there was any other codes that sould've popped up. There wasn't any, but I noticed that my battery was low again on my dash. I tried to start it up, I got a little whirr, and some smoke from under my dash. So, I'm going "what the F@#*!!" :mad: . I go and grab a flashlight and the fire extenguisher (just in case), and go back underneath the dash. I poke around, and nothing's wrong. Nothing burnt, nothing melting. I try to start it up again, and it works fine like nothing happened. I tried it a couple more times here and there, and everything was normal. Now, I have to go to my wife's job to bring her something. The ultimate test. Everything's working perfect. I get to her job, park the truck, get out, and come back about %minutes later, and the damn thing's acting up again. Low voltage, smoke, the works. I air out the truck, poke around, and I still don't see anything blown or melted. What the hell?!! Someone, please help! I feel like Charlie Freaking Brown over here!! :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Where are you getting these starter motors? Sounds like the same problem...this time excessive starter draw.

    A dragging starter can draw HUGE amperage, as in hundreds of amperes. That'll make your wiring harness dance.
  • 94blazer94blazer Member Posts: 5
    Well, I took out the starter that I just put in to have it tested. It was bench-tested @ 95 amps, which was the max that it should put out. But, I did walk out with a starter/ignition swtich (which, by the way is a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to put in 'cause it's mounted right on the steering column). After installing everything, the truck seem to kick over just fine. I tried it a couple of times, then decided to put the truck back together. After all that was done, I tried to start it again, and it was like it was dead as a freaking doorknob. So, now I'm scratching my head so much that I think I hit bone.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    Regardless what the stater test revealed, I feel like your starter is worn out. I did not think people tested starters anymore, they just replace them as a routine procedure after 100,000 miles if there are starting problems. Before replacing the starter, make sure the battery, the cables and the cable connections are good. You need to replace the starter and starter solenoid with a remanufacturered starter and a new starter solenoid.

    NAPA has the best remanufactured products. NAPA remanufactured starters cost from $100 + $29 core deposit for a standard starter to $144 + $60 core deposit for a premium remanufactured starter. Both starters include a new solenoid. Replace the old worn out starter and you will be amazed how well the engine starts.

    As you found out, there was nothing wrong with your original ignition switch. Ignition switches seldom fail. I have never had to replace a ignition switch after 50 years keeping my old cars in good condition.
  • fujitivofujitivo Member Posts: 2
    in the back nothing work no stop/no turn signal/no riverse light/ nothing work in the back just only in the back area please help me
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Have you checked your fuses?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • fujitivofujitivo Member Posts: 2
    all the fuse is new is a 1992 chevy blazer all the bult is new i try everyting ground cable new what next? hablo español
  • Jagged_FelJagged_Fel Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 blazer that when you use the hazard lights all the tail lights flash even the backing lights the same as when I use the brakes at first it was just blowing fuses when I had the lights on and then turned now there's no turn signal at all and Ive checked all the connections to the lights but when I do use the braking or hazard lights everything else dims its almost like there's a short somewhere but Ive checked and replaced almost everything except the multifunction switch which I don't think would be the problem cause its my brake lights too and it was blowing fuses and I'm totally at a lost here and don't know what to do except replace that switch but don't want to unless I'm sure that's the problem....any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • shelbyclanshelbyclan Member Posts: 1
    Okay I have a 1999 Blazer LS 4x4 4 door got about 118,000 miles now. About two years ago the throttle position sensor went bad or became out of adjustment. At the time my job was kind of hit and miss so I just unplugged the sensor. Everything still runs fine. Since then I have lost my job and been through a few others thanks to the economy and have not replaced it. About six months ago the right (passengers side) headlight went out. No big thing but before I had the chance to replace the bulb it came back on. For the past several months now some days it works some days it doesn't. Recently it quit all together. I also noticed my tag lights not working. My over head light stays on unless I push the over ride button on the dash. Today I replaced both the high and low beam bulbs in the head light and the tag light bulbs. Tag light still does not work and when high beam is selected the whole light goes out. Tested all bulbs they are good. Checked fuses they are good. I am loosing hair here. Have looked at all the wires I can get to to see if any chaffing did not see any. Break lights and turn signals work fine. Cruise works. Don't really care about dome light only mention incase they are somehow related.
  • cardoc50cardoc50 Member Posts: 49
    General Motors issued a recall on the windshield wiper problem. It takes them
    about 20 minutes to do the recall. Solder on the printed circut board would crack thus
    leaving them inoperable. I know this because it happened to me. There was no problem scheduling the vehicle for the recall because they are able to do it very
    quik.
  • msavage1msavage1 Member Posts: 1
    I have an '89 full size Chevy Blazer that does not have any power going to the ignition. When the key is turned nothing happens. The battery is fully charged and I have power going to the alternator and starter. I have checked all the fuses in the fuse box and the inline fuses that I have been able to find. I am curious if power needs to be coming out of the starter solenoid or where else I could check to see if there is a break in the power. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • cardoc50cardoc50 Member Posts: 49
    Your starter may have 3 leads on it. It may have 2. The large lead is direct from the battery. Only when the ignition switch is in the start or run position,you should have battery voltage to the small one(ones).Power to one small one makes the solenoid
    engage the starter drive gear which cranks the engine. One of the other small wires supply power to the ignition thus making the engine fire when the ignition switch is released. Of course to test the starter on the vehicle you'll have to have someone to help you.Use a voltmeter or a old 12volt bulb and socket you may have laying around. I use a side marker light and 194 bulb for this.Make sure the vehicle is in neuteral or park also. If there is no one to help,chock the wheels,turn the ignition on run. Get under vehicle with a screwdriver and bridge the solenoid using the large battery wire and the small wire on the solenoid. the engine should crank.If you get no results,start checking for a break in voltage between the ignition switch and the starter.Let me know what happens and I have a couple more things to add that may help.
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