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Odiopus
Cheers! -Bob
I've driven Cherokees and Wranglers in the past and can say I'm sort of a jeep fan BUT if the future of Jeep lies in the Liberty ...
IMO, it's one of the ugliest utes on the road with that crazy front end
Good luck!
Kim
I haven't been online for a while due to some extended vacationing up north. Lizzie did great all loaded up with gear and family and took the seasonal road driving like a champ.
When on vacation, I put the key in to start her. The engine cranked but she didn't start. I withdrew the key and tried again and she started immediately. My cruise control, dash and some exterior lights, and chime (intermittently w/ the chime) won't work since the no start. The P R N D 1 2 lights under my shifter don't work when I turn my headlights on, but work during the day.
I'm not sure if these are related issues or not except they all occurred after the no start, and all have ties with the steering column. Electrical issues aren't my forte' so I'd appreciate any suggestions my fellow Rover lovers may have.
( I did check the fuses. All good.)
Also on the trip, she developed a decent size crack in the exhaust manifold. How big of a pain in the butt is that going to be to fix?
Thanks to any and all who respond. Glad to hear folks are enjoying their summer!
Kim
P.S. I agree about the Jeep Liberty. My first response was "Good heavens; Where's the rest of it?" One of my first vehicles was a CJ-7. I loved her. These vehicles seem a sad representation of what a Jeep is to me.
Went 4 wheeling for the first time in my new (to me) 98 disco with 25,000 miles a couple of weeks ago.It was GREAT!!! Went everywhere that a '77 full size GMC Jimmy 4x4 w/4" lift and big tires went except a very steep/rutted hill - chaulk that up to driver inexperiance - but hey I'm learning.The Jimmy driver was very impressed! He kept saying " I can't beleive that that thing doesn't bottom out or scrap the running boards off." He would get out of his truck just to watch me go threw some rutted washes.It was GREAT. Did go up one hill to fast and landed kind hard.Hard enough to make the doors unlock and the flashers come on - dealer said that that is a safety thing in case you are in an accident(Cool) Reset itself after I turned the key off.
Took the disco into the dealer for some warranty work
- rear window not working (electrical)
-getting super hot water in the passenger front side floor(drain hose plugged)
On the car seat issue: We have 2 kids - one is 6 and the other is 1.5 .The 6 yrs.old is in a booster seat behide the driver and the 1.5 is in a car seat behide the passenger.We had to run another strap throught the back of the 1.5 childs car seat and clip the ends onto the rear seat belt anchors(in the rear cargo area)to tighten up the seat enough - looks like @#$% but that car seat is not moving.
This pass weekend went camping up in Eastern Az.(Greer,Az.)to escape the heat in Phx..Again it was GREAT.Towed a 1300 lb. popup tent trailer threw hills for 175 miles.MPG was 11.86(not to bad). Did have one thing come up while driving
- at around 2500 RPM or 70 mph I would get this dead spot in the acclerator,like I was at the rev limiter(happen 3 or 4 times up hill, down hill and flat)??? Anyone else ever have this problem.
Other than that everthing went well-passed a couple of other Land Rovers on the road-is this like a big club or what?? because every time we passed one they all waved at us.(Very Cool).
Anyway that's all for now. Just having FUN in my new Disco
Seeya,
Flyinggeek2
In the engine compartment, passenger side, is a fuse block. It's black plastic, about 5"x10" and located just aft of the battery. Inside are the BIG fusible links. My Disco gets electrically weird fairly often and it seems to infect several apparently dissimilar items at once... meaning their power source is nasty, noisy or intermittent. Remove the electrical plugs to the block, take off the top, remove every one of the fusible links and clean their contacts with a pencil eraser. Do the same down in the block where they make contact. Attach/remove the plugs a couple times to clean THEIR contacts, blow out ALL the dust, and reassemble. It takes me 15 minutes and solves a world of weirdness.
About the cracked manifold: if you're proficient it won't be too hard. This is a basic V8, no magic. The tricky part will be the studs in the alloy block. DO NOT break a stud off removing it, likewise don't worry if one backs out as you twist the nut... just double-nut the stud to reinstall. You might soak the fasteners with WD-40 overnight before you start. Pay extra attention to torque settings as you rebuild, and use anti-seize compound on the threads. If you strip a thread in the alloy you can try helicoils, I've had great luck with them in other alloy engines.
Good luck! Take your time, you should have no worries. -Bob
Tincup.. Can you look up the build date of my new Disco? 1A730415
Thanks
Odiopus
Kim
Odiopus, checking around it is hard to recommend a parts supplier that is consistantly reasonible. Rover Connection has alot of good prices on alot of things. Stay away from Atlantic British they are way too high in most areas. Want cheap parts? Do as I have and check your local wrecking yards. There is a 1999 Disco II SE that I have been taking alot of parts off at a reasonable price. (hitch $125.00, full carpeted mats $35.00 etc.) Although there are not too many Disco IIs' wrecked yet.
Thanks,
Kim
I think my plugs were the push-on-click-together kind, take a peek and see if there's a tab to hold back as you pull them off. These are the connectors that hold the big snake cables to the underside of the fuse block.
Good luck!
I'm asking if there is any news on the warranty front because, after owning this beautiful vehicle for only 6 months (& mileage around 32K), I have become a confirmed believer in the theory that to own a LR w/o a warranty is akin to playing Russian Roulette. (Unless I am over-reacting merely because in 6 months I have made about 12 trips with this vehicle to have things fixed........2 radios....(meaning 6 weeks w/o a stereo), sunroof replaced, rear hatch glass replaced because it was leaking, A/C control module replaced, etc. etc. etc.) Altho one of the LR dealers I have been to has been terrific (& the other one.....I give a very mixed review), I shudder to think what all of this would have cost out-of-pocket!
Could you please also check the VIN SALPV1442WA396401, for build date, and previous problems? Thanks, I appreciate any info you can provide.
Re: Post 918: IMHO $27,000 for a '98 Disco is WAY Too High, unless it is gold plated. Free brush bar? For that price you should get 10 free brush bars! Or could buy a '98 Range Rover (4.0).
Check prices on Edmunds, KBB, & NADA. Make sure you know both retail & wholesale prices. Good Luck.
BTW, There are tons of '98 Land Rovers coming off lease now, & prices on used LR's more than a couple of years old tend to be pretty soft....the Warranty is ticking down! And all used car dealers know what that means with a LR product.....wait 'til you try to trade one in!
However, LR's truly are distinctive vehicles.....if you "have the itch" to get one, my advice is to shop really really hard on price, & don't necessarily just swallow whatever prices the LR dealers are asking. I finally bought my RR from a private seller, at about $5,000 less than any LR dealer was asking for same yr/miles etc.
The prices you both quote seem high. I got mine with 35K miles for $20K in (relatively expensive) San Francisco.
My Disco has taken a couple pretty long trips so far and is proving pretty reliable. I have only taken it in once for two cosmetic issues (sunroof rattle and cracking window trim). Both covered under warrantee no problem.
So...strong recommendation for 98s, but haggle more on price.
I've had my truck for 3 weeks and love it. I will be camping up at Lake Lopez in a couple weeks and probably won't be able to resist driving on Pismo Beach while there. Any advice for the sand... tire pressure, etc...
I think we found our name. My daughter named her Golden Rover or Goldie for short (it's white gold). I think it fits since we also live by the beach in CA.
I am really thinking about getting a 2002 Disco., but I want Silver for the ext. color. This is not a problem, but that means I have to get the SE package, which is also not a problem. But my dealer informed me that the 2002 SE models will come standard with the 18" wheels that the ACE package currently uses. Why are they doing this, 18" wheels off-road is not good, and that is one of the major selling points for LR. Does anybody know if a 16" wheel will be an option, or were I could purchase the current "standard" 16" rim. This is could hold me back from purchasing the vehicle (I am not ready to by one now, or I would get the 2001 model).
Thanks for any info.
Kimo
The offroad wheels and tyres will make the offroad abilities of the Disco pretty much unbeatable and the on road wheels and tyres will make it look and handle great on the road.
Enjoy
BE CAREFUL, do not attempt this when you're moving quickly or under drivetrain load. I tend to engage lo range before I get to an obstacle... it may be impossible to do so once you're in a precarious position.
Reverse this procedure to select hi range... get rolling a little, put it in "N" and then select hi range... drop her back into "D" and go.
Note: there is a neutral in the transfer case as well... I'm talking about "N" in the auto transmission.
Note also, it's going to be VERY abrupt when in lo range... shifting will be immediate, and you'll have more trouble holding her with the brakes. Be gentle until you get the hang of it.
Best regards, -Bob
Happy Rovering !
You may have a bad sender, your pickup tube in the sump may be partly obstructed, the bolts attaching the pickup tube to the block may have fallen loose, the oil pump may have too large clearances, or the oil pump seal may be bad. If it flickers at low RPM but comes on full at high, that makes me think of cavitation in the pump due to inadequate oil supply at the sump.
Good luck, -Bob
You might have a leaking rear main seal, which would explain pulling the tranny. I thought mine was doing the same, but it turned out the cork valve cover gaskets were leaking down the back of the block, looking JUST LIKE a leaking rear main seal, from underneath. Replacement valve cover gaskets are on the TSB list, and I've got 'em now.
Rovers: it's a love/hate thing. You'll adore her when she purrs but you'll cuss her when she gets cranky. It's just the nature of the beast. But one good thing... once fixed, these trucks tend to STAY fixed. Get her "over the hump", get all the quirks sorted, and you'll drive her for a long time. Perhaps the original owner couldn't stomache it... that's how my truck was, and I'm glad for it now.
Maybe I'm lucky (or Lord Lucas doesn't care for the cold) but I've had zero trouble since 3 days after my warranty expired... expired from overwork, I must add. Not quite every part on my truck was replaced under warranty, but certainly THOUSANDS of dollars worth. And she's stayed fixed. Now, I don't personally think an extended warranty is worth it. Back then, I did. I figure I've got another 3 years before big expensive things start to grow old... alternator, power steering pump, fuel pump, O2 sensors, brake rotors. In those 3 years I'll save enough on warranty fees to pay for the parts outright.
Just my two sense (grin) -Bob
Thanx,
Brett
If it covers everything including wear and tear then by all means get it. A factory alternator plus a couple hours labor will eat up 1/4 of that amount. Toss in an ABS pump or power steering pump and a couple more hours labor... *poof* you've paid for the warranty.
If it only covers failures, then knowing that fixes tend to stay fixed... you're betting it will break and they're betting it won't. I guess it IS a Rover... (grin)
Yep you better buy it. Hope this is good advice! Just get IN WRITING exactly what's covered, and where.
-Bob