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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Get the system tested - free at most auto stores and it will do a load test and amp draw. I skip the rebuilts now due to the problems you have (or had) and for $15 more get the new one - about $150 vs $135. Could be the tensioner pullet or idler pulley or water pump so listen closely and get the free test and check the main cables too.
  • gator14gator14 Member Posts: 5
    My jimmy wasn't working awhile back and to get it going we had to jump the relay. Now i when i turn on the right turn signal the fuse blows and when i touch the brake pedal the fuse blows, Also no 4 ways. I'am not good with electic wires,but i will try. Just not sure where to start looking.
  • softtailsofttail Member Posts: 11
    Finally found a minute to work on this issue. Found the hole at the top edge of the carpet. Poked a tool inside. Seemed to have found the actuator though. As I move it left the sound is familiar and that of the actuator. The lever you are referring, what exactly is it?

    s
  • johnny427johnny427 Member Posts: 1
    It all began with the battery. The positive cable connection at the battery got horribly green and white corrosion, so I cleaned that out. Solved the no start problem.

    Since then I've had several very weird problems.

    1. When I start the truck, the rear hatch opens! The only reason I know this is because the "hatch open light" comes on.

    2. The radio doesn't remember the correct time anymore, but does remember preset radio stations.

    3. This morning I drove the 25 highway miles to work, then got called back home for a small family emergency. When I started the truck back up, the IDLE speed was 3000 RPM!!! If I nudged the throttle it would increase, then drop back down to 3000RPM. Thought maybe the air filter was dirty, it looked fine. The throttle didn't seem to be stuck, manipulated it by hand under the hood. Interestingly enough when I put the car into reverse or drive, the RPMS would drop to 1500rpm. If put back into Park or Neutral, they would rocket back up to 3000rpm. About 10 miles into my trip back home from work the RPM issue went away...idle speed was around 500rpm in any gear.

    Whats causing all of this craziness? This is my family's only vehicle and with my wife being 5 months pregnant I dread the thought of not having a reliable vehicle at the ready!
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Now that BOTH battery terminals are clean and cables are good is the voltage correct on the gage about 14 volts? Blazers act screwy with low voltage so have a battery load test done and make such the alternator is good - that would be an easy #1. The computer does have a canned program it defaults to after battery disconnection and it then relearns from driving and actual sensor readings so is the SES light on and if so what codes #2. Then clean the air intake of the throttle body and the valve with spray and old toothbrush so no deposits and free operation (don't spray the whole can or will start really hard but then OK)as #3. On from there.
  • david565david565 Member Posts: 7
    Well I got a new switch and finally got it put in. Everything works except I'm still having problems with the windshield wipers. The pulse works, and high speed wipe, and the spray wipe work, but regular speed wipe and delay wipe still don't work. Any suggestions?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Yep, that's the circuit card in the wiper motor (drivers side under hood)- it can be burned traces or a simple remove, clean the grease off and install again not over tightening the 3 cover torx screws that can distort the card. Common problem and many stores carry the card at approx $50. if required.
  • david565david565 Member Posts: 7
    I tapped the motor and and the wipers go on and off, so thats definately the problem. I'll try to clean the card, but if that doesn't work could I replace just the card (looks like they cost about $20 - they call it a wiper motor pulse board), or do you recommend replacing the entire motor?

    Thanks for all your help!
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Normally just the card goes bad and never had to do a motor. As you will see the torx screws may be hard to reach without a bit and a 1/4" drive and add a thin bead of silicon sealer to the cover edge to seal the moisture out and gently snug the screws so you don't flex the card,
  • budgalbudgal Member Posts: 3
    Service engine light keeps coming on and says that my tranny is stuck in 3rd gear. I have changed both cylinoids and the light still keeps coming on. I have also been having problems with getting the key out of the ignition ever since the light came on. The tranny works fine if I switch gears manually. I have changed the cylinder in the ignition and that hasn't helped either. Any suggestions of where to check now?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Known ign switch (really the ign module) in the steering column. Triggers all sorts of weird codes and problems - lucky its in the 97 only. Sorry.
  • budgalbudgal Member Posts: 3
    Thanks! I was thinking that myself but didn't want to actually change it and still have the same problems.
    Lucky me that I have a 97!!!!
    I will do that today than. Thanks again.
  • melissafmelissaf Member Posts: 1
    Hi - did this problem ever get resolved? I am having the same issue - along with the radio & pwr. windows shutting off immediately upon turning off the key (used to have a delay). The override switch is fine, but also the drivers side wont lock when using the power lock when the car is turned on. Only when off. Help - my Chevy Dealer wants over $100 just to look at it. All fuses are OK
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Thats all in the headlight switch assembly - replace and its about $55 at most stores - have to remove the dash trim to do it.
  • budgalbudgal Member Posts: 3
    Good Call Repairdog..............
    Changed the switch and all is well again!!!
    Thanks !!!
  • piper5piper5 Member Posts: 5
    my son had a 96 chevy blazer LT. today would have been 30 days of him having it. It has already been in the shop, because after having it 2and a half weeks it had to be jumped everytime you started it. Then on friday oct. 20 he and 3 friends were heading back to school for one more band practice before the game that night. as he left his friends driveway, the brakes went out, the blazer revved shut it's self down completely and went into a series of rolls. when it did land they had enough time to climb out, then it caught fire from the dash to the front end. one passenger said after the fire started, the blazer went haywire, it tried to start it's self, the headlights went off and on, and the horn went off. they were all wearing their seatbelts and thankfully came out with very minor injuries, but now noone will even answer my question as to what would cause the brakes to fail, the engine to rev and shut down, and where they rolled, it should not have rolled.
    does anyone know what causes this? why are companies avoiding me?
  • guestguest Member Posts: 770
    The starting problem was normal for a 10 year old Blazer - alternator and/or battery. As to the other terrible problem I am glad that they all were OK but I was lost on the series of events. Please slowly detail and maybe someone can explain what happened. A 10 year old used vehicle has no warranty and who knows what the previous owner or owners did to the vehicle so without a complete repair/service history GM can't really do much. The NHTSA has forms to file on accidents that may provide you some help. Gas and transmission fluid will ignite and then the electrical will melt and wires will short. Need to say if 4wd or not and mileage and anything else you know plus all past repairs.
  • piper5piper5 Member Posts: 5
    ok, i'm still shaken, but as slow as i can. here's what
    happened. my son and his friends were leaving a friends house around 4pm last friday. his friends driveway is gravel that goes into asphalt. he got to the middle of the drive, applied the brakes, only instead of slowing, the blazer sped up. (There was a nurse living next to the house, and what she said, was it sounded like it just throttled all the way up.) Once the brakes went out and it sped up, it shut down on him completely. no motor, no steering, everything just locked up. when it locked up, he had no control, it hit loose gravel on the flat surface of the road shot them toward a ditch. the ditch caused the series of rollovers. when looking at where the rollovers started, if they were to roll at all, it should have been side to side maybe twice into the woods. instead it was end over end, corner to corner, then side to side. what really gets me though is from where it shut down to where the wreck started, there wasn't enough room to get that much momentum going to flip. all but 3 windows shattered. the front seats have a gap between the doors between 6 and twelve inches, which kept them away from the doors. then it caught fire. but it burned either from the back of the dash through the motor, or the motor to the back of the dash. I wish i could show a picture of what it looks like. We know the blazer malfunctioned, we just don't know what went first. But because of the fire, they cited him for careless driving. i know there where some recalls, i just don't know if any of the 6 before ever took it in, and the service department where he got it, replaced the belt and battery 2 weeks after he got it. we had no idea anything else was wrong. For me, all of this happening, and he only had it a little over 3 weeks, i don't understand. Aren't they suppossed to be checked and serviced before they put them out to sell?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Omigosh - what a horrible experience! I'm glad no one was injured.

    Is it even remotely possible that your son mistakenly pressed the accelerator pedal instead of the brake?

    tidester, host
  • piper5piper5 Member Posts: 5
    I did think about that, but after talking to his friends in the blazer with him, i believed he did apply the brake. then there was a neighbor there, who said she did see them come in the neighborhood, and they weren't speeding. then she said she heard them coming out. she said everything sounded normal not fast, but then she heard this odd rev, like it might be stuck, but by the time she reached the window they were in the air. when they landed it caught fire. i am thankful they're all ok. and the nieghbor turned out to be a nurse, that helped them until emt's got there. but i do honestly believe that the blazer malfunctioned, because of the way it shut it's self down. he had no control, no engine, no nothing. so he said he just shut his eyes and said to himself, that he couldn't believe this was how he going to go. I have a pic, but i don't know how or if i can download it here.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I have a pic, but i don't know how or if i can download it here.

    There are two ways to do that. One way is to get the picture hosted somewhere (such as with your IP) and you can find directions to do that by clicking the "Help" link at the bottom of this page. A better way is to set up your CarSpace ( http://www.carspace.com - your username and password will be enough to get you set up). In effect, we host your pictures and you can share them with anyone and even link to them here.

    tidester, host
  • piper5piper5 Member Posts: 5
    i'm not sure if i did it right. i think it went up as my picture. and i'm ok with that.

    thank you
  • gt_sportsgt_sports Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Blazer that's been suddenly stricken with electrical problems. I noticed a couple of days ago, when I shut off the Blazer and took the key out of the ignition, the vehicle was still running!

    Now every time I shut off, I can press the brake pedal and all of the lights and electronics will come on!
    Also, whenever I brake while signaling, the turn signals start operating at 2x speed. No lights are burnt out, but while driving, the brake lights (R, center, L) are always at 50%, and when I brake they light up to 100%.

    Any ideas? Just some wires touching hopefully? I know nothing about this kind of stuff.
  • guestguest Member Posts: 770
    Only way the key can come out with it running is a trashed ignition tumbler/key switch.
  • piper5piper5 Member Posts: 5
    I can't remember the complaint number right now, but if you go to nhtsa.com you can file a complaint about this problem, and they will investigate. while you're there you can also look up any and all other investigations, reports, technical service announcements, and any recalls on your vehicle you might not have gotten yet. let me know how it goes.
  • crpntrladycrpntrlady Member Posts: 4
    I am trying to figure out why my instrument panel lights have stopped working on my 94 Jimmy. A few months back they would go on and off occassionally while I was driving. Now they are off all the time, the temp and fuel, but the speedometer in the center still stays on. I have checked the fuses and they seem okay. Are there Light bulbs inside the dash on an LED readout, if so, how do you get to them. Thanks for any help you can give me
  • puttererputterer Member Posts: 3
    The lights are not LED.
    The speedo and trip in the center and fuel, temp, oil, volts are all run from the circuit board. The lighting around the panel is bulbs. You have tree fuses that supply to the panel.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Those have problems with the circuit card so do a general online search on blazer instrument cluster and you will find fairly cheap solutions such as:
    1989-94 Blazer/Jimmy/S-10/Bravada Digital Unit - Repair Cost only $159 USD includes all shipping!! Now only $149!
  • graceless_ladygraceless_lady Member Posts: 3
    I have a '99 2DR blazer that is suddenly making the "turn signal clicking sound" even when the signal is not on. I've checked and the signals are not actually on during these times, and the signals work fine when I DO turn them on. Is this possibly a wiring problem or something? I'm clueless...please help!
  • firstshirt1sgfirstshirt1sg Member Posts: 3
    I own a 2000 Blazer and recently the thermometer in the inside console has been displaying the wrong temperature how do I repair this malfunction?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Only displays correctly after driving cause the thermistor is up by the radiator and display updates after moving. Search the posts I posted exact info awhile ago.
  • jb3683jb3683 Member Posts: 5
    I just started experiencing the same problem yesterday. Have you had any luck finding any information out? I own a 2002 Grand Am
  • jb3683jb3683 Member Posts: 5
    I just replaced the headlight combination switch and no more random clicking. It cost me $92 from NAPA. I believe this will remedy your problem. If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, it shouldn't take more than an hour for your mechanic to install which he/she will charge labor plus the price of the part.
  • bethkerbethker Member Posts: 1
    Did you get a fix on this? I have same problem. Help!
  • rev7rev7 Member Posts: 4
    I have the same problem with my 99 blazer 4 door. I just notice one little difference. When I accelerate the clicking happens. When I apply the brake the clicking goes away. Would the headlight combination switch still be the route to go or does the accerating/braking issue make this a different problem. Thanks
  • jb3683jb3683 Member Posts: 5
    when you accelerate, the lever will come back towards you. when you brake it moves forward. try to move the lever back and forth with your hand. you do not have to apply much pressure. i think that the motion of your blazer is shifting the lever every so slightly back and forth to cause it to malfunction. does it randomly go off any other time, or ONLY when you brake and accelerate?
  • jb3683jb3683 Member Posts: 5
    i should also let you know that GM calls the part a "multifunction switch". i am sure other parts stores will call it something different.
  • rev7rev7 Member Posts: 4
    Yes - it does go off randomly as well. I just seem to notice when I apply my brake the damn clicking stops...lol

    Which lever do I want to move back and forth? The turn signal lever correct?

    Thank you for your help It's begining to drive me insane.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Thats cause the problem is in the flasher/hazard part of switch and the brake lights use the same bulbs. Blinkers use diff part/filamint of bulb. The flasher relay/canister is behind the glove box and sometimes that can be bad if you luck out.
  • putz2putz2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 2DR blazer that is suddenly making the "turn signal clicking sound" even when the signal is not on. I've checked and the signals are not actually on during these times, and the signals work fine when I DO turn them on.

    Also, when I accelerate the clicking happens. When I apply the brake the clicking goes away.

    Anyone know what this might be and an approx price on how much to fix and can I fix it myself??
  • firstshirt1sgfirstshirt1sg Member Posts: 3
    No I could not find repairdog's earlier post
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Blazers 3/2000-6/2001 manufacture dates had an NHTSA recall ID#01V36400 on like a half million vehicles for the multifunction switch developing an open circuit in the harzard carrier results in only the top mounted brake light working. Dealer installs gm kit #15174447 in a few minutes by pulling that harzard switch part out with pliers (have to get it all) and inserting a new one. Free if in the year span so GM can run your VIN and tell you.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    GM had a problem with all of their models regarding the intermittent start/stop of the wipers. Because of my background, I decided to do an RCA (root cause analysis) of the failure and see what was going on once and for all. Here is what I found:

    The wiring harness to the circuit board is not supported. Because of this, movement occurs during driving that applies vibration and stress to the connector on the circuit board. If you have the described problem, remove the harness, then the circuit board, and look closely at the solder joints of the connector. In every case of this happening (and I have seen many) I found small hairline fractures in the solder connections. In each case, the solder was removed and the solder pads cleaned. Then, using a rosin core solder, the harness connector was resoldered to the board. The board was reinstalled and the harness plugged back in. Then, I took a tie wrap and secured the harness to the firewall so that it could no longer move around and flex the connection to the board.

    This repair has been done on dozens of GM trucks, cars, and vans and the problem was corrected in each case. By securing the harness, the problem has not recurred.

    And it is a lot cheaper than replacing the board!

    Jim
  • david565david565 Member Posts: 7
    I had the same problem with my '98 Blazer. I switched out the wiper control pulse board for about $30 and it fixed the problem. Not too hard to do - remove the 4 screws holding the housing together and the board comes right out. You need to get silicon sealer and seal around the cover when you put it back on to keep moisture out. The housing is located towards the drivers side against the firewall in the engine compartment and has wiring coming out the side. I didn't know about securing the harness - I'll do that to prevent future problems - Thank You.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    You are right, changing the board is not hard to do on most GM products. Now, those dustbuster vans (Olds, Chevy, Pontiac) were a little tricky as the wiper motor is way up in there.

    I had just seen and heard about so many of these failures that my curiosity got the best of me and I had to figure out what was going on.
  • cptgunthercptgunther Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 99 4DR Blazer that just started doing this also. how hard is it to replace that headlight switch? This seems to be a common thing in blazers, has anyone checked to see if there is a recall on this item?
  • jb3683jb3683 Member Posts: 5
    I don't know how much the headlight switch (aka multifunction switch, aka turn signal switch) is for a blazer. I paid $92 from NAPA which was for my wife's 2002 Grand Am. It was not hard to replace. I took the three screws out holding the plastic molding around the sterring column. There was one screw I had to remove to take the headlight switch out. I then disconnected the wiring harnesses from the old switch and put in the new switch. In your case the part is called a headlight combination switch, which is $179 from NAPA online. I don't know how involved it would be to replace the headlight combination switch in your blazer. If you go to napaautoparts.com and search for this part number "dl6062" you will see a picture of it. This is different than the switch for the grand am because i didn't have any pigtail to deal with.
  • tomjan79tomjan79 Member Posts: 1
    Hi I am new here I am not a mechanic obviously and I am having some problems. I keep blowing a fuse on my Blazer, when I first start it. I took it in to a repair shop when it would not start after a cold spell. I thought it was a timing belt. Turned out to be a fuse for the fuel pump, pump was checked out and it was ok. And a fouled spark plug. About 5 days later it started it blowing fuses. It would start and run and then the next time it would blow a fuse.
    I had the heater switch replaced before the fuse problem began. Now the heater is not working at all. Please help, thanks.
  • nujimmyownernujimmyowner Member Posts: 1
    my brother and i just repaced the left wheel hub assembly, being newbies we did it in about 4 hours with a few trips back to the auto store for a 18mm square wrench,hub puller,and rental on a socket set for the torque wrench(cannot be rented)all in all it went better than expected, no vibration at source. A curious thing happened afterward. i left the keys in the ignition and killed the battery. keys would not release from the starter and would not start even after jumpers. we cleaned the terninals, should i be looking for something else other than my auto club card.i mean no power at all..very wierd. please write back with ideas. and has anyone used nu-lense..if so does it really work
  • donnelly3donnelly3 Member Posts: 3
    My blazer seems to be doing what nobody has ever heard of. With the key off if you push on the brake the headlights come on,radio comes on,windows can be rolled down,all interior lights come on.The right turn signal doesn't work but left does.I was also getting a rapid clicking sound under the passenger side dash.When I pull the turn fuse from position #10 the problem stops but now have no turn signals.Hope someone can give me some place to start.
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