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Isuzu Rodeo Maintenance and Repair

13

Comments

  • rickynrachelrickynrachel Member Posts: 1
    My Gas Light on my Rodeo comes on for no reason and the guage drops below the empty line when I know it still has a 1/2 a tank of gas left. After a while it goes back to normal place. Than my Check Engine Light comes on. Does anyone know what could be wrong?
  • poohbearwoodspoohbearwoods Member Posts: 3
    I also have the same problem with my 2000 Rodeo LS 4WD, I saw a comment on this site that said that there is a button or switch on the floor of the car that when pushed will mix the gas-oxygen ratio and prevent this from happening. I still have not located the button so I don't know how accurate this is. Would love to know if you find it or another solution to the problem.
  • poohbearwoodspoohbearwoods Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info...I found a mechanic that diagnosed the problem that you mentioned, that cost me $210, then they informed me about the same part that you said and I found it through a dealer in Rhode Island for another $500, then they installed it for another $70. So after $780 I now have 4WD again. The mechanic said that the actuator was froze and wouldn't move. No luck with getting the part used. I have never really had any problems with the car so I thought it would be worth the money. It does handle wonderfully in the snow since I live at 6000' elevation in the San Bernardino mountains in CA. Have you had the problem with the check engine light that comes on when the car is 1/2 tank or less? The question was posted on #108 and that is the only other problem that I have with the car. I saw a posting on this site about it maybe being a button or switch located on the floor of the vehicle (I believe drivers side) and when that was pushed or activated that it mixed the gas with the proper oxygen at the correct levels so that it would no longer occur. I have to located this switch. I thought it maybe some type of floated or sensor that measures the gas tank but I'm sure that it is a major expense to pull the tank. Any answers, comments, or suggestion are greatly appreciated. Thanks again!
  • isuzu4lifeisuzu4life Member Posts: 5
    I also had the same problem with my 2000 Rodeo with the fuel gauge. It is the fuel sensor on the fuel pump. Part # 8-25331-808-1 Unfortunately you have to replace the whole pump to correct it. I don't know the cost because mine was covered under warranty. If you have any other questions, just let me know. Good Luck! Hope this helps with your problem!
  • bucsngoofybucsngoofy Member Posts: 6
    When the 'cruise control/brake light' came on, did it cause your truck to stall out?!? My cruise light comes on and if I don't disengage it manually w/in about 20 secs., the freaking truck dies... diagnostic checks don't show that anything is wrong...
  • foghatchfoghatch Member Posts: 5
    Yes it stalled. I did get if fixed by a local mechanic. He found a short in the wiring harness. It was a lot of work but it cost less than replacing the entire wiring harness which I'm told costs around $1500 to complete.
  • tsmith9tsmith9 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, just saw your post and mine is doing the same thing. Check eng. light and engine skips or misses. Replaced the fuel pump as you did, replaced coil, and spark plugs, and now lookin at replacing pcu. Did you ever find out what this was? Would be a big help, runnin out of options, Thanks
  • kiramakirama Member Posts: 15
    Engine light & missing was caused by head gasket leak & build up of carbon in the head due to the leak. Was fixed under warranty at no cost, it runs like it's new now
  • tsmith9tsmith9 Member Posts: 2
    Hey everyone,
    Could really use some help on chasing down a "misfire" problem. I get check eng. light and engine skips or misfires. OBD code is P0356 (primary/secondary ignition failure cylinder 6). I have replaced coil, plugs, fuel pump, filter, cleaned injectors, and checked all wires. I have pulled out PCM to check connections and all to no avail. The only thing that seems to help is to NOT use regular unleaded gas. It seems that only premium will most of the time keep it from misfiring which makes no sense. I see at least two of you have had similar problem. Any solutions found? Any new suggestions ??? Thanks!
  • drivertodddrivertodd Member Posts: 4
    Mine was the intake Manifold gasket was leaking. Had it replaced and runs good.
  • jimmbjimmb Member Posts: 1
    Vehicle dramatically loses power when I get up to and above 45 mph. Thereafter you have to floor it to keep it from jumping and sputtering. Runs fine below 45 mph and there seems to be no problem when accelerating. Appreciate any feedback you can provide?
  • taffietaffie Member Posts: 2
    Have you ever get the answer to your question? I would like to know also.
  • foghatchfoghatch Member Posts: 5
    Remember my Rodeo is a 2002 and it was an intermittent open in a wire in the wiring harness. An independent mechanic found the problem after I left it with him for about 3 weeks. He didn't replace the entire wiring harness, just the single wire.
  • jays4carsjays4cars Member Posts: 2
    Im about to take my 2000 Rodeo to the dealer to have the valve lash adjusted and fix a broken sway bar link repaired under warranty. My warranty run out in aug. and wanted to know if theres any thing else that i should have looked at while i still have the warranty. The Rodeo has 83,000 on it and the only thing that ive had fixed on it was the fuel pump at 67,000. I just want to know if theres something down the road that i might have to take care of that can be done now.... Thanks
  • 530ir1150r530ir1150r Member Posts: 263
    Check for sludge in the crankcase. Cleaning is not covered by the warranty, though.
  • isuzu4lifeisuzu4life Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 LS with 128K--You might want them to look at the intake manifold gasket a common problem with Rodeos also the rely for the rear windshield wipers.
  • dish3dish3 Member Posts: 1
    at an idle it is fine, has heat does not overheat. but when you drive it water sprays out of the radiator cap. have changed radiator 2x and bought newcap. any ideas? it has been sitting for about 2yrs. but runs really good.:(
  • sjcorneliussjcornelius Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know if you can change the seal on the shifiting shaft without going into the transmission?
  • moosebranmoosebran Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever get this problem of the rodeo dieing when you hit a bump? Mine is doing this and I couldnt get out of the driveway today. It has been happening for quite some time and noone can figure out why. Any help would be great
  • foghatchfoghatch Member Posts: 5
    Yes, there was a short in the wiring harness. My mechanic found the wire and just repaired the single short. The dealer wanted thousands to fix it. Dealer couldn't diagnose the problem either. They started with the EGR valve and wanted over $500 to replace that. I replaced that myself in about 10 minutes (for about a hundred and a half) and found out quickly that wasn't the problem. My check transmission light would go on with a bunch more and then the car would buck and sometimes quit or just instantaneously quit and pick up again. A real head ache. I'm sorry you're having the same trouble.
  • komakikomaki Member Posts: 1
    My rodeo (2001) just flashes the light when I push the button. I have noticed this topic goes back quite a long while, but I have never heard of a way to repair it. Has a repair been found? If so will someonr please tell me where it is? thank you all.
  • isuzu4lifeisuzu4life Member Posts: 5
    The first thing I would check is the vacuum line connecting to the front wheel drive actuator on the drivers side. It sometimes falls off or is cracked. This happened on my 2000 numerous times.
  • chaparral1chaparral1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 isuzu rodeo 4 by 4 3.2 v6,the transmission shifts hard, i noticed that this happens when the lights for the trans selector go out, example p,r,n,d.I can usually fix it for a while by turning off truck waiting a few minutes lights come back on truck shifts fine for a while than problem comes back .If anyone is aware of this please respond thank you very much
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    It is the transmission mode switch. It gets gummed up and the contacts feed the computer inacurate info on the placement of the shifter. Sometimes holding the button on the shifter in (foot on the brakes please) and cycling the shifter all the way through the range will seem to clean it up. Then power off and back on will reset it sometimes as well. At one time I found instructions on removing, disassembly, cleaning and re-assembly but last time I looked I could not find that.

    Found one of the discussions but the link to the instructions does not work anymore

    http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=1707

    Here are instructions for replacemnt on a Honda Passport http://www.justanswer.com/questions/1abjz-i-need-to-replace-the-transmission-ran- ge-sensor-in-my

    About the only other things I really remember is that placement is critical. If you remove to clean or replace, it must be installed back in the same location. If it installed otherwise, the position indication can be off, ie. the shifter is in D but the indicators show it is in R.

    Yes...inconsistent p,r,n,d,l lights are an indication this might be the issue.

    Good luck

    Bill '00 Trooper LS
  • maloprmalopr Member Posts: 14
    1998 Isuzu Truck Rodeo 2WD 2.2L MFI DOHC 4cyl. Replaced the intake manifold gasket and cleaned the throttle body, replace engine vacuum lines. There are no leaks. But, on start up If the brake pedal is depressed the idle speed increases but after driviing around for a while when the brake is applied the idle speed is noraml. What could be the cause of this probelm? Any solution?
  • tronz83tronz83 Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    hello, I have just replaced the heads on my '01 holden rodeo 2wd due to having a burnt out valve, have just put everything back together (correctly) and the car will not start
    when i turn the key it chuggs but never turns over,

    the timing isnt out, their is spark in all cylinders, i just cant figure out why it wont
    turn over, any suggestions would be totally helpful... i dont knew what else to check

    when I turn the key trying to start the engine and battery lights come on and then after a few seconds the trans light starts to flash aswell,

    the battery isnt flat, the fuses are fine, the car was running before i stripped it (just badly) and now im lost... please help
  • maloprmalopr Member Posts: 14
    is it a 4 or 6 cylinder engine, did you replac the head gasket,
  • liz40liz40 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a headlights relay because it had been removed by someone, all other lights work but headlights wont come on What can I do?
  • darryl68darryl68 Member Posts: 1
    ok, so my heater core is most likely cracked. Coolant leaking into the passenger foot-well when after the car heats up and starts circulating coolant.

    Is it possible just to bypass the heater core/heater? Perhaps create a loop at the end of the heater hoses back unto themselves. I'm in southern California, and other than blowing fog off my window, I never use my heater.

    If not, is there easier way to change the core other than removing all the instrument panels and evaporator to get to the core?

    Thanks
  • maloprmalopr Member Posts: 14
    Yes you can bypass the heater core. You can disconnect the two (2) hoses at the firewall in the engine comparment and make a loop there but you have to make sure that there are no kinks in the hose at the loop. The coolant has to flow freely
  • 92_isuzu_rodeo92_isuzu_rodeo Member Posts: 1
    my 92 rodeo has headlight relay under the hood in fuse and relay control box . if it is bad the ligths won't work
  • maloprmalopr Member Posts: 14
    Did you replace the fuse click on this link or copy and paste to your web browser: http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projects/Car---Truck/Auto-Repair/replacing-aut- o-fuses.
    And after you check the fuse and if it is good then check the relay click on the link or copy and paste to your web browser:http://www.ehow.com/how_4596906_test-car-relay.html
    hope this is helpful
  • trosephtroseph Member Posts: 4
    Did you ever solve that problem? My Amigo is doing the same now.
  • foghatchfoghatch Member Posts: 5
    Resolved when my motorhead friend found a short in a wire in the wiring harness. did not replace the whole harness, just repaired the short and it was fine and has been fine since.
  • trosephtroseph Member Posts: 4
    My ignition switch was to blame for this, not sure if you're still looking for an answer or not, but I hope this helps. Just turn your key back and forth slightly to see if it is the problem.
  • alejandrolalejandrol Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 isuzu rodeo LS in Venezuela because I took it there for my daugther. It was taken to the mechanic to fix the engine and when trying to install timing belt they can not make it work correctly. Even some valves were damaged after trying to do it as second time. It is any information on site where i can get a copy of the pictures and instructions how to change it? If there is something else i can use and you know could you please let me know? I really appreciate all you can do.
  • maloprmalopr Member Posts: 14
    what size engine do you have a 2.2, or a 3.2
  • maloprmalopr Member Posts: 14
    While driving came to a stop light after light turn green clutch will not go onto first gear as a matter of fact will not go into any gear. I replaced the slave cylinder. But still the dame thing will not go into any gear. New fluid. new slave cylinder. Any ideas of what else I can look at, I checked the master clutch cylinder and it seems to be working fine, the slave cylinder seems to be working fine also. Any suggestions on what i can do.
  • rodeobillrodeobill Member Posts: 1
    i replaced the flex plate 3 months ago and the new one cracked already, any ideas why?
  • pdrattpdratt Member Posts: 1
    I have 2001 Rodeo -- just had new battery and fuel pump w/sending unit replaced. Trying to get sticker (MA) and inspection computer can't/won't hook up w/OBD. Vehicle has been driven over 300 miles -- highway & city. Anyone know how long/far vehicle must be driven before OBD resets/recycles? Thx.
  • offshiftguyoffshiftguy Member Posts: 1
    I've got the hard parts done. the new tranny is up in position but how do I get the Clutch Pivot Arm to engage the Throw Out Bearing. I have the Bearing mounted in the Pressure Plate. Should it be on the Pivot Arm and the tranny Input Shaft first. And inserted in the Pressure Plate with the Input Shaft?

    Thanks
    Bob
  • cebollerocebollero Member Posts: 1
    95 Honda Passport 3.2 L auto 2wd-

    Engine recently rebuilt. Replaced rocker arm shaft assy's (used).

    Engine knocks from head, driver's side only, poor fuel economy, 8 mpg.

    Reading thru the forum, the correct plan of attack is:

    1. Change the oil, 5-30 w as the manufacurer suggests.

    2. Check the timing belt tensioner and the timing belt to be sure is has not slipped a tooth on the driver's side.

    3. Replace rocker arm shaft assy's on driver's side.

    Questions:

    1. If the tensionser is bad, would it slip a tooth on the driver's side first?

    2. Anyone have a good source for NEW rocker arm shaft assy's. Is it typically the exhaust or intake? Are they intercangebale, intake/exhaust/driver's/passenger's?

    3. The forum indicates that the valve clatter is not a performance or mileage issue, but valve clatter does not explain the poor fuel economy...

    THX for any info!!!
  • beast9beast9 Member Posts: 1
    I tried replacing the ABS speed sensor that attaches to the differential housing on my 94 Rodeo 4x4. The thing was stuck so bad, the top snapped off, leaving the shaft stuck in the housing. I'm not really afraid it's gonna fall in, but I still wand to replace it.

    It looks to me like maybe I can remove the back of the housing, and then maybe tap it out from the inside. But I've never been inside a differential before... Is something going to fall out (other than fluid) when I open the housing? Will I be able to see/reach the sensor plug, or is there too much else inside?

    Thanks
  • abgbdwolfabgbdwolf Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 isuzu rodeo, when I take it out of 4 wheel high into 2 wheel drive, it doesn't seem to be fully disengaging. 4wd light on the dash is still lit and the truck shakes and shimmies alot at speeds over 35 mph. I have tried to go in and out of 4wd, drive in reverse, shut it off in 2wd and restart it. Nothing seems to solve it. Suggestions????
  • fattony2fattony2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Rodeo. When I start it up it runs fine but when I put it in drive or start to slow down for a red light or stop sign all warning lights start to flash, it loses power and dies. Also, when I pop the hood I can hear a clicking noise coming from the engine and fuse box. I replaced the fuel pump relay but the problem still continues. Any thoughts?
  • jjmcdadejjmcdade Member Posts: 5
    I have a 95 rodeo and I'm trying to replace the hose from the Power Steering. I'm having problems with the bottom part of it. I can't get any type of tool down there to loosen it up. I'm not even sure which way to turn because there were some screws that turned right to loose, threw me off. How do I loosen the bottom part of the hose and which way should I turn if I'm facing the front of the truck? Any help would be great.
  • maloprmalopr Member Posts: 14
    edited December 2011
    Do you have a L4 2.6 or a V6 3.2 engine

    basically the same for an L4 or V6

    1.Position a drain pan under the power steering pump.
    2.Tag and disconnect the hoses from the pump.
    3.Remove the drive belt from the pulley.
    4.Install a suitable puller tool onto the power steering pump pulley, and remove the pulley.
    5.Remove the power steering pump-to-bracket bolts and, if installed, the rear brace, then remove the pump.
    To install:

    6.Position the pump to the vehicle and secure using the retaining bolts and, if equipped, the rear brace.
    7.Use a pulley installer to press the drive pulley onto the power steering pump. Check that the pulley is flush within 0.010 in. (0.25mm) of the shaft end.
    8.Install the drive belt and adjust the tension (as applicable).
    NOTE: Be sure to secure any hoses which may get in the way or rub other components.

    9.Connect the feed and return hoses to the pump.
    10.Properly refill and bleed the power steering system.
    11.Test drive the vehicle.

    Steering gear and components

    1.Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
    2.Place a suitable drain pan under the power steering gear.
    3.Tag and disconnect the feed and return hoses from the steering gear. Immediately cap or plug the openings to prevent system contamination or excessive fluid loss.
    NOTE: Be sure to plug the pressure hoses and the openings of the power steering pump to keep dirt out of the system.

    4.If equipped, remove the intermediate shaft lower coupling shield.
    5.Remove the intermediate shaft-to-steering gear bolt. Matchmark the intermediate shaft-to-power steering gear and separate the shaft from the gear.
    6.Matchmark and remove the Pitman arm from the gear Pitman shaft.
    7.Remove the power steering gear-to-frame bolts and washers, then carefully remove the steering gear from the vehicle.
    To install:

    8.Position the steering gear to the vehicle and secure the retainer bolts finger-tight. If necessary, align and install the Pitman arm to the shaft at this time.
    9.Tighten the power steering gear-to-frame bolts to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).
    10.Align and install the intermediate shaft to the power steering, then secure using the pinch bolt.
    11.If equipped, install the shield over the intermediate shaft lower coupling.
    12.Remove the caps, then connect the feed and return hoses to the power steering gear. Refill the pump reservoir.
    13.Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
    14.Properly bleed the power steering system.
    15.Road test the vehicle.
  • sargerrellisargerrelli Member Posts: 1
    Mine did a very similar thing when my brother used to own it , 4 garages said all these sensors were bad and changed $800.00 worth with no results car dropped into what is called limp mode , would only got 15 to 20 mph , until I changed out main computer / found one at a local junk yard for $50.00 and it fixed it :) just make sure you get one u need automatic / or manual trans. they r different and need to match what U have :)
  • 01goldrodeo01goldrodeo Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Rodeo with the 3.2 v6. Last month I topped off the oil. Month and a half later, its over 2 quarts low. Not a drop is leaking under the car, there is no smoke coming out of the tailpipe, and the radiator fluid is as clean as could be. Car runs great. Where in the heck is the oil going?!!!
  • 01goldrodeo01goldrodeo Member Posts: 2
    My 2001 Rodeo was in an accident, and both driver and passenger side airbags were deployed. Am I able to replace both bags, and replace the airbag sensor and have them work again? Just curious if that's all I will need to replace. Are there anymore fuses or other things I have to replace as well? I can find an airbag sensor for about 30 bucks or less, but I'm not sure where it is located yet. I can also find both passenger and driver bags. Just not sure if I replace them, will I have any issues with just plugging them in and hoping they don't blow up in my face.
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