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Comments
Steve, Host
Sorry I wasn't more help. All I know is mine wasn't getting fuel when hot.
fuel pump ok injectors were cleaned fuel filters were replaced as were the distr cap & rotor
Any thoughts or suggestions???
Here is what it has...
New 350 crate motor w/Edelbrock intake and 650 4-barrel
headers
dual exhaust
new carpet
minor body rust
4 speed manual
I was told that it has a cast iron t-case, and it is extremely rare. Is this true, or was this guy blowing smoke?
tidester, host
tidester, host
I was not able to see if anybody replied to you with a logical answer so let me know if you corrected the problem and what to look for.
thanks
Josh
The fuel pump was recently (<6 mos) replaced and a mechanic suggested that the problem was related to a fuel regulator, which he said was expensive to replace.
It doesn't feel like a fuel injector issue because I recently experienced that with another car, and my SES light has been coming on and even blinking at times.
Ideas? Similar experiences? Any idea how much this might cost me?
Thanks
Sincerly: Kenneth Pearson
I hope someone has an idea of what it could be. I'm not ruling out fuel injector(s), but wouldn't the problem be persistant?
Thanks
I'd like to find out if anyone has done the following:
1. cold air intake system
2. headers/exhaust system
3. computer/chip
4. Velocity Tuner
Any info./ help is much appreciated
Should I replace both front wheel bearings?
Thanks
I purchased a 1999 GMC Jimmy 4.3 2wd brand new with 5 miles on it and right now it has 72,000 miles and I have only had minor problems with this vehicle after the warranty period.
The alternator and compressor were replaced three times, but remember when the alternator goes out the dealer will only recharge the battery. Batteries on all GM vehicles will leak on the positive side and will start this procedure of the alternator going out. I finally just replaced the battery the last time the alternator was replaced and everything is working just fine.
The compressor will go out because the case and the seal starts to leak, so the dealer will just keep replacing the compressor but will never replace the accumulator or the expansion tube to complete the job correctly. They also know about the new style GM compressor available but will not always install it.
Driver’s side door pins are no big deal, just replace them and everything is fine. I have not seen any ball joint or hub bearing problems with these vehicles at all.
Dex-Cool antifreeze is not bad but it will not last as recommended, you need to flush the cooling system out completely every 2 years or 24,000 miles. If this is not done and you wait for the 5 years or 100,000 miles, you will have many problems with any vehicle.
Dealerships are recommending that they should acid flush your cooling system do not have this service done on your vehicle. The acid flush in some cases will do more damage to the vehicles internal parts than expected.
The biggest problem that I have seen is the heater core will get clogged up and no heat is present, but you can flush the heater core out and at the same time replace all the hoses, the thermostat and the radiator cap, the cap should not be manufactured by GM.
Lastly, most of the problems that I have seen with all vehicles are that the customers do no want to perform severe-scheduled maintenance. The customer is under the assumption that first it is too costly and second the mechanic is just trying to line his pockets with money and unnecessary work for the vehicle.
The old sayings that if it’s running don’t mess with it will not work on today’s vehicles. Find a trustworthy mechanic and follow the severe schedule for any vehicle and always ask if there are any technical service bulletins or recalls for your vehicle and get them done.
Your vehicle will run and last a lot longer than expected and you will see less problems happening. The customers that listen to me have little or no problems with their vehicles and they don’t mind spending that extra money.