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Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy

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Comments

  • firefighterfoxfirefighterfox Member Posts: 3
    the engine idles @ 650 to 675 rpm
    there is an intermittent miss that does not create a problem, but, if while in gear the AC compressor cycles on at the same time the miss hits, then the engine will frequently stall.
    It will start right back up with no problem, runs and drives great until you stop at a light or intersection.
    Many new items installed, ie: plugs , wires, cap, rotor, dist. module, coil, injector assem., plenum fuel lines, fuel pump, egr cleaned, fuel relay and more.........
    Idle control valve appears to be working properly.
    Computer does not seem to have time to speed up the engine for the additional load of the AC or steering pump before it stalls and dies.
    After the engine is warmed up, I can disconnect the idle control valve and it appears to run smoother.
    Anyone had this issue?

    thanks, Greg
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Probablty as you said the IAC is not responsing to the PCM commands so connector or valve. Get the AC checked out to see if the compressor is dying - excessive drag as the clutch cycles the AC on/off or could be just low pressure so a recharge required
  • mrgrace96mrgrace96 Member Posts: 1
    I have 96 blazer that recently threw a rod bearing. In my hunt for a used 4.3, I stumbled upon my coworkers motor out of a 99 bravada. He's givin it up for a great price and I know it was well serviced, it was pulled for a 350 swap. Does anyone know if this motor will work in my 96????
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    The 99-01 had the secondary air injection so you can use it but need to change the exhaust manifolds or simply plug the place where it comes out - depends if smog state and they would really have to get down in there to see it. The computer may be different also so check with the GM dealer on that with your VIN - i.e. is a 96 and 99 the same? Think some of the sensors were also changed so some inputs also may have been. Wrecking yards have a cross ref book that also tells the answer.
  • angieandrohanangieandrohan Member Posts: 9
    Your wiper motor maybe fine or burnt out by now but putting a new one only going to burn out again GM's Blazer and Jimmy have that problem the mechanical parts under the cowl where the wiper arms screwed to is seized you have to remove the cowl that black plastic piece below the windshield, removed the wiper arm first then remove the two end piece then the middle piece then loose the nuts at the base where the wiper arms was and that center nut on the motor also remove the wiper motor carefully remove the mechanism spray some W-D40 on each joint then oil each joint, then work it with your hand till it free up, if the wiper motor is still good every thing will be fine but some times when the mechanical parts seized up like that it puts pressure on the motor and burns it out, if you are going to put a new motor make sure you do what I told you and you'll be OK,GM have a good plan but ashamed to let the Japanese refined it, water keep wetting the mechanism under the cowl and that’s why after a while it seized up, my wife paid over six hundred dollars to fix our truck because I wasn't here and it stops before I get home I had to buy a new motor again and do all that I told you and now the wipers are OK, and it only cost me $87 dollars for the new motor at AutoZone, I hope you can do this yourself the dealer makes more money repairing these trucks than what they made selling them, and if you have rear wiper take that out and do the same thing too don't Waite for it to stop.
    Hope I was of help.
    ;)
  • angieandrohanangieandrohan Member Posts: 9
    My SECURETY LIGHT comes on sometimes when I am driving, which let me know the pass lock system not working properly some time the truck start up and shuts off immediately no matter how much times you starts it, it just shuts off like its out of gas then after about ten minutes it starts and every thing is fine, when I check the manual I've learned that if this happens you are to Waite ten minutes then start and it will start but I can't take this anymore does any one have any remedy for this situation, I don't want to go to the dealer, most time that’s just waste of money. Thanks
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Need a body code scanner to look at and they are the $200 plus range but the dealer is the best for this as they have seen them. Usually its in the column either the hall effect sensor on the tumbler or the wiring and connector (called the ignition switch - don't ask why) so a pain to fix either way. Good luck because at some point it may fail completely and not restart - have to fix it soon. Was the dash pulled for a heater core recently cause that may be the reason as the connector was not firmly reseated.
  • angieandrohanangieandrohan Member Posts: 9
    Thanks I do that yes there seems to be an AC leak under the dash and the technician tried to find it, so I think that’s what causes the problem I'll just take it to the dealer as you said thanks again.
  • nevrbyajimmynevrbyajimmy Member Posts: 5
    Sounds just like my 1998 Jimmy 4dr. How well does your rear wiper work ? mine hasn't worked for years , Power mirrors are nice but in true GMC fashion , they quit working a long time ago !! The fi rst and only time I tried to recline my seats the levers broke off , now i just use a screw driver . what kind of crap is GM trying to sell ??
  • angieandrohanangieandrohan Member Posts: 9
    now it works with a loud screechy noise, my power mirrors don't works any more, my seats don't recline anymore cause the levers are all broken, there's a loud cracking sound at the front end when I turn the steering fully to left or right, GM really sucks. :mad:
  • fbpatriot14fbpatriot14 Member Posts: 5
    Can a 1995 chevy blazer be chipped or does it have to be tuned with a tuner?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Good question and not sure but the Jet catalog should tell you - if its ODB II then Jet has the add on module. Those juts fool the temp so run richer thus more HP but would have to say mpg drop. The turners are like $300 plus and can override the top speed limiter (why cause at 93 the things will be shaking), reset tire size/odometer, and shift points. For a stock vehicle spend your money on quality ignition parts and filters!
  • philipminerphilipminer Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 GMC Jimmy does the same thing (intermittently does not start). I believe it is the motor senor that is located on the front of the crank where the harmonic balancer is. I am going to get it fixed at a dealer. When I do, I will report the result and cost.
  • angieandrohanangieandrohan Member Posts: 9
    Most likely the AC clutch is jam so when you turn on the AC it jam the AC pulley which cause the serpentine belt to burn trying to turn the AC pulley it happen to me before, if you let the AC stays on it will cause the belt blaze (fire) I would advice you to change the AC compressor :sick: .
  • moho79moho79 Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 98'GMC Jimmy & have started having these same issues. They started up about 6 mths. ago. I have tried verious things with no luck. The one thing I have been told it might be that I haven't tried yet is the damper actuator, I believe is what it was called. I was reading your post & wondering if you ever resolved your probelms & had any pointers. If so it's much apperciated.
    Thanks in advance, James M. of OKC, OK
  • valwhite4valwhite4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 GMC Jimmy. About 4 months ago, I was driving with my kids to TN and it started stalling on me in the middle of intersections or whenever I needed to slow down. Actually it died most of the time in those situations. Scared me half to death. I put it in the shop and they replaced the fuel filter. Just yesterday it started doing it again. I really need advice. My husband will probably not be able to do the work himself (unless it's really easy) but I'd like to know what's going on so I don't get cheated. Or if someone can give really good instructions, we might try to fix it ourselves. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    It could be several things. If the fuel pump is dying and pressure drops it could stall or a clogged fuel filter thus the change. Only way to tell on pump is a pressure test and that requires a $35 Actron or other fuel rail tester that connects to the schreader valve under hood.

    Now if this only happens as the vehicle goes to idle it could be the idle air control (IAC) valve on the side of the throttle body and these can get worn or clogged and the air passage blocked - often intermittent and drives you crazy as never happens when in the shop - my 01 did this started every few weeks then more and that was it (at idle).

    Then could be related to a sensor but a code should pop or SES light on and Advance and AutoZ read for free.

    Then if close to 100k miles cap/rotor/wires/plug time.
  • jimmygirl1jimmygirl1 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my Jimmy - it was something to do with my Distributor (some kind of accelerator cap or something like that). It was not the fuel filter.
  • hmurph1989hmurph1989 Member Posts: 2
    i got a 98 GMC Jimmy and have no clue what can be wrong with it now.... my truck will start when it wants to and then for a while i could just lock it then get out and unlock it with the key and then it would start but now its not doing it and i have no clue.
  • bruno55bruno55 Member Posts: 1
    Hi I have a 2000 Jimmy, We are having a problem when on initial start and any restart from a short stop. It wont shift out of Park until as it would seem to me it has time to build a vacuum back up Im thinking maybe vaccum brake boost? all the lines seem ok and hold a vacuum but hey I might not have a clue.

    Any help appreciated
    bruno :confuse:
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    When you turn the key to On (not start) all the dash warning lights come on and the security light also does - that one should go out after like 5 sec and if not then you have a Passlock problem in the steeering column and thats a GM dealer fix. Now if thats out not it so is tshe vehicle really in Park as theres an adjustment on the trans cable at trans - try N position and see or pushing into P again and test.
  • hmurph1989hmurph1989 Member Posts: 2
    well i tried that i had the anti theft system chip replaces in the sterring collum and not 2 weeks later its doing the same thing again.
  • bravesfan2006bravesfan2006 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, its a 1995 2-door 4.3L Vortec V6 chevy blazer w/ 150,000mi. When I start the truck, it was alright for about 5 seconds (this morning) and then I can hear clicking about every 3.5 seconds. On the 1st click, the engine throttles down from 700rpm to about 500, and about a half second to a second,(varies slightly) a second click occurs, and it throttles back up to 700rpm (all in idle state) When I am driving, it continues, and you can really feel it. I'm fairly certain it happens more often when you are rolling, but i haven't timed it.

    I do generally have to tap the gas to get the truck to start, and wasn't sure if this would be related or not.

    I've had this happen once before. It went away after a day or so, so I wasn't able to trouble shoot much. The last time this happened, and this time, the drivers window will raise, but not lower. When you try to lower it, the E-Brake light kicks on in the dash, and the rest of the internal lights dim (have not checked headlights).

    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
  • foxracer1foxracer1 Member Posts: 9
    hi this is brian i have a 2000 gmc jimmy and i had the same prob found out it was the TPS sensor try that it hope that works for u
  • merlinof2merlinof2 Member Posts: 1
    had this issue with my 98 jimmy. did the whole mechanic routine, etc. dealer mechanic working off clock found burned/corroded coil ground wire. $6 problem gone. check the simple things.... I should have.
  • chevyman49chevyman49 Member Posts: 3
    THE ONLY DIFFERENCE IS BODY EFFECTS &,INTERIOR.THE BETTER OF THE TWO IS WITHOUT A DOUBT THE GMC JIMMY.
  • chevyman49chevyman49 Member Posts: 3
    YES IT CAN BE CHIPPED ,BUT YOU STAND A CHANCE OF BLOWING THE MOTOR OR TRANNY,TO HIGH OF RPM'S.BEST LEFT ALONE.
  • chevyman49chevyman49 Member Posts: 3
    I REACENTLY BOUGHT A 98 GMC JIMMY SLE.THE REAR WIPER WORKED THE FIRST 2 DAYS BUT THE REAR HATCH DID'NT OPEN .MY HUSBAND (CHEVYMAN49) FIXED THE HATCH BUT NOW THE REAR WIPER WON'T WORK.HE IS THE GREATEST MECHANIC AROUND & HE KNOWS WHAT THE PROBLEM IS .BUT I WAS WONDERING WHAT OTHERS MIGHT THINK THE PROBLEM IS. :confuse:
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I recommend turning off your CAPS LOCK. People tend to ignore messages typed in ALL CAPS.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • mikey153mikey153 Member Posts: 2
    My 96 blazer has a rebult 4.3 Vortec also a ammco rebuilt transmission. Problem is just on occaion the Brake and abs light come on. Any help
  • daddy_2004_457daddy_2004_457 Member Posts: 1
    won't start cold unless i have someone squeez air intake hose shut......... replaced air intake sensor,coolant temp sensor & oil presseure switch..........any suggestions
  • glenn3268glenn3268 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,

    I have had my 1990 5.7L Blazer for 17 years and I finally need to change the motor. I am considering trying to convert it to a diesel. Any pointers or show stoppers?

    g :confuse:
  • gmck9gmck9 Member Posts: 17
    I just bought a 2001 gmc jimmy. Has 100,000 miles. Bought it thinking the clunk was the ball joints or a loose/worn out shock. NOPE!!!! Replaced the ball joints with "Moog" brand. The clunk is only there when you go over bumps that resemble something like going over a set of train tracks. The truck has been to (3) GMC dealers, and (3) high end mechanic shops. NO one can figure out where the clunk is comming from. Trust me.... this thing has been pried, rocked, shook, climbed over, and under, and every part has been grabbed and shook to see what is loose or out of place. NOTHING!!!!!!!! However everyone says that as bad as the clunk is... we should be able to see the damage of what is broken....but we cant find it.....
    PLEASE can anyone give some advice of where to look? Could there be a spacer or rubber bushing that is still in place, but worn out? I dont just want to start ripping stuff apart "hoping" it does the trick.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    With that many miles the idler arm should have been changed by now. When worn, it makes a really loud clunk going over bumps. My favorite test is to find a road with the little reflector "bumps" down the stripe. Drive down the stripe with the wheels hitting the little bumps and a worn idler arm will really sound off. It doesn't take a lot of play in an idler to create a loud clunk. The driver can usually feel it in the steering wheel also.

    About a $50 part, takes about 20 minutes to install, will need a puller to separate the center link from the idler.
  • angieandrohanangieandrohan Member Posts: 9
    I have a jimmy too and it dose that but mine is a loud pop like some thing just Brooke but it only do that when I am backing out my driveway and the wheel role off the sidewalk, one day I let my wife drive it up the sidewalk and I lay flat on my stomach and I saw what made the pop sound it was the tie rod ends I change all of them and the drag link too no more popping sound, but bear in mind that if you are going over a bump with the steering turned all the way there will be a loud clank which dose not mean anything is wrong it's just the way most GM trucks are it's the coil spring that snaps back into position from turning, but any other noise other than turning must be taken seriously.
    Hope I was of help.
    :D
  • gmck9gmck9 Member Posts: 17
    That sounds great if thats what it is!!!! Question: When I remove the idler arm, is it under force? Do you have to worry about it flying apart? OR is is as simple as you are describing.....just have a puller to seperate the part, and throw the other in, then tighten it up? Sounds simple enough if thats correct!!!! :shades:
  • gmck9gmck9 Member Posts: 17
    Thank you for the reply, but it is more along the lines of the other reply to my post. Happens when you go down a "washboard" style dirt road. Im going to put in the idler arm like the other reply said, and prey it stops the clunk. Buying a new to me vehicle is never any fun.....I also found missing bolts(on the oil pan) while I was looking for this clunk. Geese I wonder who was the master mechanic who did that?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Nah, no springs to fly or anything like that. The shaft of the idler arm is tapered where it goes through the center link, so when tightened up it becomes a "press fit". A simple puller will separate the parts easily.
  • gmck9gmck9 Member Posts: 17
    Welp, bad news my friends.....changed the idler arm(was as easy as you said), no problems. The problem is the clunk is still there. I can feel it in the floor boards better then the wheel. You dont have to be going fast at all to have it make the noise....I'm talking 5mph on a washboard style dirt road, Or just hitting the pits and bumps when you stop at some traffic lights. Man.....this sucks :cry:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Wish you were in central Texas so I could hear the sound. Have you looked to see if the transmission mount is broken? Motor mount maybe, but those generally don't "clunk".

    Do you feel any pulling in the steering wheel when it clunks? Check the upper control arm mounts at the frame where the shims are installed for alignment.

    Is there a lot of free play in the steering? Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth a couple of inches and compare the movement of the input shaft of the steering gearbox to the output shaft movement. Check for excessive play. The gearbox is adujstable, but I wouldn't do it unless you see noticeable play in the gearbox itself.

    I'm just going with what you are driving over when the clunk occurs here and trying to come up with some things to look at.
  • gmck9gmck9 Member Posts: 17
    I cant thank you enough for helping with this!!!!! The "clunk" sounds EXACTLY like a worn out shock bushing. Steering is very tight....no play. Also no pulling when the clunk occurs. My spare jimmy is a '94 model but it is 2wd. It had the same noise resembling a ball joint/ shock bushing......so I changed EVERY part on the front end including control arm bushings. The noise stopped. Im wondering since I put new ball joints on.....and a new idler arm and new shocks, if I shouldn't just do the pitman arm,, tie rod ends, and control arm bushings and see if that does it, but thats a job!!!!!! Im wondering if it isnt something to do with the 4wd system on this '01? Everything is working(4wd) doesnt clank or bang when you put it in 4wd and turn tires full left or full right and go in a circle.....no jumping or popping.......also sway bar bushings look GREAT, but should I change them to be sure? :confuse:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Well, generally a tie rod end that is loose enough to be heard will really affect the steering. There are a couple of bushings in the center link that could do this, but here again, when that loose you can get a lot of play in the steering.

    On the full size trucks, there has been a problem with the intermediate shaft in the steering column. The S series has a different design, but they can get noisy. Try grabbing the the steering shaft in the area of the center spark plug and give it a good yank back and forth and see if you hear the noise. You mentioned that the noise seems to be from the floorboards, and this is usually felt in the steering wheel, but don't want to overlook anything.

    Next, I would put the vehicle up on ramps, or with safe support under the front wheels and get underneath with a rubber mallet and start whacking. Sometimes a noise/looseness will disappear if the wheels are suspended, such as using jack stands on the frame.

    Okay, and this is a stretch, check the frame to body mounts. If the rubber of the mount is loose, or the bolt has backed out just a bit, loud clunk occurs.

    Does this vehicle have step bars? Notorious noise makers.
  • gmck9gmck9 Member Posts: 17
    How about this description, maybe this will help pinpoint......When the "clunk" happens, it is not just one "clunk" it sounds like something is slapping together with repedative "clunking". And it is really weird....if you hit a pothole or a speed bump....no noise. If you hit a row of ripples in the pavement resembling a washboard....better turn the radio up!!!! :confuse: There was a post somewhere about the hood hinges rattleing, not that either. I hope the new description will help steer you in the right direction. All the mechanics at GMC and misc. other places all are scratching their heads and WANT the work badly since there is a warranty on the vehicle, but we need to find the problem before we can send in warranty info. Someone needs to invent an allignment rack that you can attach tires to and it will shake them like a paint mixer.. :)
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Okay, just went back and read the whole thread again and never saw where you replaced the shocks? I understand if you checked the mounts, but did you check to see if the "bell" (which is the shield that covers the shaft of the shock) has come loose on the shock? Doesn't hurt anything, but noisy as heck. And will cause the sound you are describing, and can occur on old and new shocks both. I had a brand new Monroe Gas Magnum do this.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Other thing, and I just went through this with a warranty on my '02, if you have a warranty, then it is the responsibility of the warranty to pay the repair shop to find and fix the problem.

    Sad part about these things is that in my case, after charging off over $1300 to warranty, the problem was what I told them in the first place, a $200 repair that I just didn't want to mess with.
  • gmck9gmck9 Member Posts: 17
    I have checked the shocks, and the tightness of the bolts......not the shocks. O.K. now don't laugh at this, but the warranty is carried buy a company called Wynn's. I don't believe diagnostics is covered under warranty....they are all saying that we need to know what is broke.... so they can get an approval. I did do this......I compared my '94 control arm bushings to my '01 bushings....yes they are a different design, but the condition of the bushings on the '01 are horrible. I've been saying thats what it is the whole time, but no one wants to do it. Only because the control arm doesn't move when they pry it. Im gona push them to fix the contriol arm bushings, since I had this before and when changed the whole front end with the bushings......noise went away.....and all thats left on the '01 to be all new is the tie rod ends, and pitman arm. NO play in steering so its not the pitman arm, or tie rod ends. I changed the sway bar bushings yesterday, and I had to beat them off with a hammer.....the bolts were so coroded, the bushings and spacers were welded together!!!! Wish me luck with this warranty stuff.. ;)
  • gmck9gmck9 Member Posts: 17
    well, I have a great story that happened to me with the warranty work......I took the Jimmy to a "Napa auto care" facility, which I thought were on the same level as the dealership. Well, this one I went to in Eden, N.C. takes the cake for scam artists!!!!!! After the Jimmy was approved for the warranty work on the upper control arm bushings, they started the work on 5/12/08. To make a long story short....they got the approval for (4) bushings 2 per side at $13.00 each bushing. The Napa bushings that they were supposed to be using(because they are a Napa auto care facility) were $23.00 each bushing. Advanced auto bushings were $9.00 each, and the Autozone bushings were $6.00 each. So I asked him what ones did he put in, and after stuttering for 5 minuits, he spit out.....uuuuh.....Autozone.
    I fell out!!!!!!!! Here the guy was surely aware that I only wanted top end parts on the car (I told him this 10 times) I told him I'd pay the difference, and he still went behind my back and installed the cheap [non-permissible content removed] crap parts just to make $30.00 off the parts. The first thing I did was report him to Napa auto care (the regional manager is going there today...5/14/08 to remove the Napa name. This guy was using the Napa name to draw customers in, then he puts the cheapest parts on the car he could find.....making people think hes using Napa parts!!!!!!! Holy cow right? :mad: :mad: :mad: And the regional manager is paying for the repairs on my vehicle out of his expense account for what happened(he doesnt weant me to go national with this probablly) BE CAREFUL OUT THERE!!! :surprise:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    I have to ask, did it fix the problem???
  • gmck9gmck9 Member Posts: 17
    well, havent picked up the car yet....today is 5/14/08. Ill let ya know this weekend....I'm dropping the car off to another facility which is doing the repairs over putting in the moog brand parts at no cost to me. :) can you believe that mess....Autozone junk!!!!! :lemon:
  • gmck9gmck9 Member Posts: 17
    MAn bad news.....noise still there.....I think Im gona put this piece of junk up for sale.....Im not gona mess with this junk any more.....not 1 mechanic on this earth can figure out what it is.....and the noise is bad enough where Im not gona wait around to find out what is gona be a huge repair down the road.........something is slapping the frame or something solid as the frame or engine or tranny.....I though gmc's were good? But i guess I got the only :lemon:
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