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Unfortunately for me - this is not the problem with my 2000 GMC Sierra. So far, the best bet we have in repairing intermittent gauge spikes and a transmission failure appears to be a faulty ignition switch or short in a wiring harness that leads to the transmission sensor.
Update on our issue:
Had a mechanic replace the ignition switch and so far so good. Seems to have fixed the problem. It was acting up several times per day before.
Delco P/N: D1422D @ $89.90
Labor was $125.00 (not too bad)
It looked like it would not be too difficult to replace?
The mechanic told me that the previous years switch assy were ~$200.00. He was shocked that mine was that less expensive.
Good luck!!
We just bought a '08 2500hd for my son. Pulled it out of the dealership, and less than 2 miles down the road, the ABS, Brake waring light, and "Trailer Brake System" lights all came on. We drove it right back and left with a loaner Grand Prix. Next day, we tried again and made it a half mile before the lights came back on (additinally, the blinkers wouldn't go off). Third times a charm right? Three Miles!!!
Is there a known electrical problem with these trucks? If so, our dealer doesn't seem to be aware. I am afraid my son will get his first payment statement before he actually gets the truck home.
thanks bunches-cat
- Steve
Thanks
- Steve
I have a 2000 chevy silverado 1500 4x4 5.3 auto. On cold starts after you put the truck in gear the gauges bounce back and forth, the abs, air bag and battery lights flash on and off and the gas and alternator gauge don't read properly. I thought it was a low battery issue or a bad alternator but both checked out ok. the scanner shows no codes. Sometimes when i'm driving the above will happen and the truck will shut off. It then starts up and runs fine sometimes or sometimes I have to press the gas pedal to start it. The dealer said it could be a ignition switch or the ecm but there guessing. Has anyone heard of this or had it happen. thanks for the help
I did look back through some early posts and found similar things just like you said. However I purchased the switch and wiring harness today at the dealer it only cost $87 with my shop discount. I looked it up on napa prolink and they get 247 list 189 my cost much more than dealer. thanks again for your input I hope this is the solution.
Dave
thanks for your help
I installed the new switch on friday. It solved all the problems with gauges and stalling I couldn't believe it. the chevy dealer where I bought the part said they have never heard of a switch going bad. I think there doing damage control I suspect this is a very common problem after reading posts here and other sites. I install the switch myself, it was easy took about 1-1/2 hours the only problem I ran into was I failed to disconnect the battery first and blew a 50 amp maxi fuse, so don't make that mistake. Most of the time you'll spend is taking the dash panels off and back on the switch itself takes 10 minuets to change. Hope this helps someone else.
shigs
Let me know,
Brent
Sometimes everything happens at once, sometimes it's only a combination of the aforementioned. Then, all of a sudden, everything is restored to normal working order. Few minutes later, it starts happening again. Sometimes various lights come on, the radio loses power and it stays that way until I restart the truck. Then the cycle repeats itself all over again. Keep in mind that the truck "runs" fine even while all this is going on. No engine trouble at all. However, I'm scared this will spread to the headlights on a dark night or windshield wipers on a rainy day.
I took it to the dealer and they were not able to reproduce the problem as some days everything works fine. The ran a computer diagnostic which returned some errors that meant something was losing communication but they were real vague about. I don't think they have any clue or haven't seen this before. However they said it's really odd these symptoms would occur together since they are all on seperate circuits and all the usual suspects passed their tests such as checking the battery terminals and checking connections in the fuse box.
Today something a little different happened. My truck has this feature that when you turn it off, the power windows and radio stay powered on for 10 minutes or until you open the door. Whichever comes first. Today, when I got to the jobsite and turn off the key, the power shut off to the dash within 10-15 seconds. As if the "feature" wasn't working. Makes me think the entire problem coould revolve around the box or chip that controls that 10 minute power feature. Or it could simply be another symptom of a bigger problem such as the main computer going bad.
I've looked under the hood several times but with all the wires and terminals on cars these days, who knows where to look? The problem could even be inside the dash where I can't get to. What bugs me the most is that I paid $83.00 to the dealer to run a diagnostic but they never fixed the problem or even had a sugestion. They said bring it back as the problem occurs however I don't want to pay another 83 bucks for them to just scratch their heads.
Any suggestions or places to search for a solution would be appreciated. If I don't hear anything, I'm going to replace the ignition switch like [shigzy].
1) Instrument cluster tranny temp backlight bulb failure. Replace cluster under warranty at 40K (good thing, that cluster's $1100)
2) 4x4 pushbutton switch backlighting bulb failure: Replace switch under warranty at 40K
3) A/C vent (door) actuator motor, both RHS and LHS failure. (heat out one side with both sides of the climate control set to cold). Replaced under warranty at 40K
4) HVAC climate control panel. Backlight failure. Replace entire HVAC control under warranty at 40K.
5) Steering wheel switches (all four) backlighting bulb failure. Replace under EXTENDED warranty, at 90K.
6) Battery failure. Dealer indicates that GM batteries are not covered by the same warranty as their identical shelved brothers, but are merely covered for the life of the original vehicle mileage warranty of 60K.. and not covered under my extended warranty. Replace at 85K OUT OF MY POCKET. One battery, 1 yr, 4 mo. life. It's replacement? An identical delco battery, covered for five years. So far, that's the only time I've been left on the road so far, and.. the only out of pocket bill the dealer's shovelled off to me.
Since its a Canadian model truck, I've also got some other uncorrectible issues with my dealer. I want the DRL's and auto headlights disabled and capable of being switched to "off" at MY discresion.. no means to program them at a dealer in Canada. Also not fussy about the top speed limiter, and last but not least, I also get the infamous bug shield rattle mentioned in some of your other forums.
Topping the rest of the list, (not related to electrical mind you) I had some vibration in my drive shaft.. Fortunately, it was a seized rear driveshaft U-joint. Replaced under warrranty, at 85K.
And just out of curiosity, for those with the 06 models, on the light switch to the right of the instrument panel dimmer dial, is there backlighting on the switch on the dimmer symbols on any of your trucks? Might necessitate a new light switch.
Apart from the battery failure, I've never seen my check engine light.. never had any other sensor issues, and never had any powertrain problems. Just a lot of little things GM could stop cutting corners on. Electronic parts. They would be smart to use LED bulbs in their future designs.
Fussy? Yup. Resale? Gonna need it. Had the truck for only a year and 4 months. Good thing it had extended warranty!
Anyone in the know of all the little secret things a dealer can change and adjust with their little hot box?
I have a 2004 Silverado SS with similar problems. Sometimes my driver side seat heater doesn't work. It will light up for a half second and then go out. I noticed that after I move the power seat the heater may work. Also my left blinker doesn't work. I replaced all of the bulbs to no avail. The horn use to work intermittently when I pushed but now It only works when I use the key fob (after locking or unlocking the doors).
Have you found any solution yet for your problem. Maybe there all related. Sometimes I'm a little paranoid about the possibility of the air bag popping out it there is an electrical short.
im having a similar problem with the exception that neither my running lights or high beams work. im about to take a look at the wiring again and maby if i find out something i might be able to give you a hand with yours
Dustin
Did you get any replies to your question of source of solder in bulbs?
Also, does anyone know voltage they work at (as peanut bulbs for cars use mix of 5.5 volt, 6.5 volt, 9 volt or 12 volt) and I didn't check voltage when I took dash apart to check bulbs and I rather not take dash out too many times-seems flimsy.. thanks! Barry D
Thanks, Randy