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Comments
Like you said, it helps to provide the info.
Cheers!
I have also had the radio cut out normally on my '03. The first time the dealer put in some kind of software update. It has happened 1 or 2x since then and just seems to correct itself.
The other problems may be related to your gauge cluster, get that fixed first and before it is not covered.
Thanks, Kenneth
Who knows...it might be just that. Good luck!
Regards
J
http://www.haynes.com/products/year/1989/make/Chevrolet/model/Pick-Up/productID/- - 246
I've been using them fo all of my vehicle I owned and they are very helpful.
Any suggestions?
I finally took it to an alarm specialist and they checked the truck out from top to bottom and concluded that the problem was not with the aftermarket alarm the dealer had installed but with the factory alarm that came with the truck. I did not know they were separate but still functioned with the one remote. He showed me by changing the sound in the aftermarket alarm, then triggered the alarm in different ways to activate first one then the other. This was possible because the factory alarm doesn't have motion sensors, but is activated by the opening of the doors and such. By doing this I was able to distinguish the two alarms going off by their different sounds, with the factory alarm sounding the horn while the aftermarket sound was a siren. They did all this so that I could take the truck home and the next time the alarm went off I would know which one had gone off by the sound, i.e. the horn or siren. That night the alarm went off and just as he said, it was the factory alarm since the horn sounded and lights flashed. I disconnected the battery and next day called the alarm place. He said they would not be able to help me since they only worked on aftermarket alarms because the factory alarms are tied into the BCM which he thought needed to be reprogrammed in order to fix the problem. He said it was a computer problem not a physical problem (as in wiring) and for this I needed to take it to the dealer.
The following week I took the truck to the dealer and explained everything that had occurred and the information from the alarm specialist. Dealer had never heard of this problem. He said they would look into it and call me when they had any information. Next day I got a call and was told that they needed it for one or two more days. Two days later I was called and told that all physical components were okay, and that the problem was with the BCM. BCM was replaced, I took the truck home, and unfortunately, the alarm just went off last night again. Will be contacting the dealer again.
This is also an answer to post #30, #221, and #260. I will keep you informed as I find out additional information. If anybody can help, please answer. Thanks.
Which alarm?
When did you install the aftermarket alarm?
Which remote are you using?
If I'm not mistaken, the aftermarket alarm also ties into the BCM.
Sounds like something is shorting to ground as in bad wiring.
Help
Agin this is a very important question so i can watch football while my wife is driving!!
Seirra Danali 2009
Have checked the wires and plugs, gas cap,etc. The canister is ok, but not sure how to check the purge solenoid? Anyone who has had this problem or idea I can use!
With the code cleared you can start and drive maybe three times before the service engine light comes back on.
DESCRIPTION
The EVAP LARGE LEAK TEST is based on applying vacuum to the EVAP system and monitoring the rate of vacuum decay. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) uses the input from the Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) sensor in order to determine the rate of vacuum decay. At an appropriate time, the PCM turns the EVAP canister purge valve ON (open) and the EVAP canister vent valve ON (closed). This allows the engine to draw a vacuum on the system. At a calibrated time or vacuum level, the PCM turns the purge valve OFF (closed), and tests the system vacuum. If the system is unable to achieve the calibrated vacuum level, the PCM will set DTC P0440.
CONDITIONS FOR RUNNING THE DTC
•DTCs P0107. P0108, P0110, P0112, P0113, P0115, P0117, P0118, P0121, P0122, P0123, P0125, P0443, P0449, P0452, P0453, P1106, P1107, P1111, P1112, P1114, P1115, P1121 or P1122 are not set.
•The system voltage is between 10-18 volts .
•The startup (ECT) engine coolant temperature is between than 4-30°C (39-86°F) , but the start up ECT is not more than 8°C (14°F) more than the startup IAT temperature.
•The startup (IAT) intake air temperature is between than 4-30°C (39-86°F) , but the start up IAT is not more than 3°C (7°F) more than the startup ECT temperature.
•The fuel tank level is between 15-85 percent .
•The Barometric Pressure (BARO) is more than 75 kPa .
•The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is less than 75 mph .
CONDITIONS FOR SETTING THE DTC
The EVAP system is not able to achieve or maintain vacuum during the diagnostic test.
ACTION TAKEN WHEN THE DTC SETS
•The control module illuminates the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) when the diagnostic runs and fails.
•The control module records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The control module stores this information in the Freeze Frame/Failure Records.
CONDITIONS FOR CLEARING THE MIL/DTC
•The control module turns OFF the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
•A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.
•A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
•Use a scan tool in order to clear the MIL and the DTC.
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
•Use the EVAP pressure/purge diagnostic station in order to pressurize the EVAP system to aid in locating intermittent leaks.
•Move all EVAP components while testing with the Ultrasonic Leak Detector.
•A temporary blockage in the EVAP canister purge valve, purge pipe or EVAP canister could cause an intermittent condition. To repair a blockage in the EVAP system refer to Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Cleaning. See: Emission Control Systems\Evaporative Emissions System\Service and Repair
Dennis
Replace it -
Your going to need to pull the door panel and check the connection.
Good luck
The next day, early am (still dark) I had to ran into a similar situation, but the truck then stalled. I promptly replaced the alternator, thinking that it was faulty due to the mileage and age of the truck. Still had issues, many close stalls when I would come to a light but no stalls.
After a few more issues, and some wondering if I would get stranded somewhere, I put a volt meter on the truck. Read 14V when it was idling, but when the headlights and defroster were turned on the volts dropped to 8 or 9. So, I figured it may be the battery and replaced that with a "red top" Optima battery.
Even after all that, I am noticing some of the same issues with running the windshield defroster at night and the headlights. The truck strains, but does not stall and the volt meter will return to 14V on the dash after it cycles. I have noticed lately that this is also happening with the rear window defroster (even if it is on and the windshield defroster is off).
Anyone have any ideas? I want to point the final finger at the heater motor/heating system but am not sure. Could this also be a relay issue? Anybody hear of this happening to others?
Only other issues to date are, the instrument panel has a light burned out on the speedometer. The 4WD switches stopped working one day (months ago), but came back and are fully functional again. Last year I replaced all the plugs and wires as a DIY tune up and have had no issues with them. Truck came back to life when I did that..
The truck runs like a champ all the other time. I still love my truck.