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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Electrical and Computer Questions

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Comments

  • barnowl3barnowl3 Member Posts: 70
    By any chance is this related to the known issues with the dashboard that date back to 2003? GMC issued me a letter that they extended the warranty to 70,000 on my 03.. My friends '04 Tahoe 2004 failed about 3 months after buying used from a GM dealer. They charged him for the replacement and would not even acknowledge the fault existed until I helped him by producing the letter. Then they said, too bad for you the truck just crossed 70,000 miles, PAY UP!. I unfortunately agree with your assessment on the GM's neglect of these issues and their customers, especially as it relates to safety. I was the unfortunate receiver of GMC truck with the faulty brake lines and luckily survived 2 near accidents. My 03, after 8 years and 68,000 miles never made it through one oil change without 1-3 warranty or out warranty issues occurring. NOT One oil change and GM service ignored. If it wasn't for a half way decent dealer, I would never have kept it that long. The problems never ended and after 33 years of GMs I gave up, as my family's safety was not worth it. Technical issues occur but GM has failed at respecting their customers and following up on these issues. I too wanted them to succeed, but it got to expensive for me. I will tell you, I switched to that other American truck company, and so far have had an extremely positive customer service experience. Good Luck!
  • wstgawstga Member Posts: 11
    My biggest problem is the safety systems and the loss of control malfunctions. I can understand a electrical gadget like a radio or maybe a window motor acting up.

    It wouldn't be so bad if transmission wouldn't change gears to 2nd at 65 mph on the highway and cause the seat belt to choke ya. Or for the drive by wire throttle to cut in and out. Nothing like trying to pull out in traffic and thinking , is it going to do it again today ?

    Thanks for your story , I'm going to keep researching this and posting more videos to see how many more people are having the same problems.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    With an intermittent problem, GM can authorize the installation of a data event recorder to record soft codes. Most of the time these are done to trucks under warranty. Not sure how much it would cost for one out of warranty.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Good morning wstga,

    I went back in the thread and saw in your initial post that you have interacted with Customer Assistance already. I'm sorry that this process was frustrating for you, and would like to follow up further. Do you have a Service Request number (or the last 8 digits of your VIN, if not)? We would be willing to look into that again for you if you would please email us more details.

    Thank you in advance,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • wstgawstga Member Posts: 11
    Thanks for your post. This truck is still under GM certified warrenty.

    I saw some other post about a event record being installed. When I asked for this from GM , I was told there was no such device and they couldn't do it.

    Cost for diagnosis isn't too big a issue to me as fixing this safety issue and preventing a accident.

    I was told there is little profit for local GM shops spending alot of time tring to diagnosis hard to find problems.
  • wstgawstga Member Posts: 11
    Thanks for posting Sara.

    I will send you a email this evening. I have several videos posted online if you want to look. I am working on a longer one with more issues I have experienced. I look forward to hearing from you.

    We had the rear wheels lock up this weekend for a few seconds , without pressing the brakes. Crasy.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDyyMKNo9_c&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXJzO_X6llE&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Member Posts: 70
    WSTGA,
    It is great that you have these videos. I wish I had one when my brake lines burst(x2). I have posted your videos on my Facebook page and will ask friends to spread them around. Maybe this will get GM's attention. Maybe they will also pay attention and make it right for all of us that bought their trucks and paid thousands to fix their prematurely failing brake lines.
    Good Luck, stay safe.

    .
  • wstgawstga Member Posts: 11
    Sorry to hear about your troubles. Hopefully nobody was hurt.

    I know American quality is gotta be better than this.

    My 1998 Silverado with 259,000 miles on the orginal engine is more trustworthy than this 2007.

    If your hear anything on Facebook , please let me know.

    Thanks.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I was told there is little profit for local GM shops spending alot of time tring to diagnosis hard to find problems.

    This is true. What's also true is that GM has labor times (time allowed to change the part) that are impossible to meet also causing the dealer to lose money on hard to resolve warranty issues.
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Member Posts: 70
    And this is where GM should step in, use their MBAs and support their customers or else they will continue to lose them. Get of the white tower, go to dealers and listen to a few customers! Especially the ones with repeat problems.
  • hadlockhadlock Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2008 GMC Sierra HD duramax. This was the work truck with the DIC controlled by the trip odometer lever. I installed the official GMC DIC switch in 2008 or 2009 so that I could get the full diagnostics in the display area. Intermittently, the display area would go dark. But it never stayed that way so I never raised it at the dealer. The warrantly expired in September and now, not only has the information display gone black but so has the shift indicator and all the gauges are haywire. The Speedo and tacometer still both read and the warning lights show up on startup. But everything else is black. I pulled the new DIC switch and reinstalled the connector and the display returned.... briefly..... Now is is entirely black. I've checked all the fuses and they seem ok. I've checked for a code with a generic code reader and nothing is showing up. I have the factory manual but it is over my head. Any insights or advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve
  • wstgawstga Member Posts: 11
    Thanks for posting ,

    I agree , I have been begging for more technical help. The reality is , you will not get help unless a tech can see a problem. It can be tricky to do when a product malfunctions at random. Multiple, documented cases showing Video proof of a intermediate safety issue is not enough proof to get help.

    Shops are pushed for production = profit. Spending time going into a system cost hours.

    Sadly nothing will be done until there is accident or two , then some media and some attorneys will be looking for fame and fortune.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Hadlock,

    I tried to do some investigation using my resources as a Customer Service Representative, but was not able to find a clear cause behind the DIC issue you're describing. Some thoughts that surfaced included perhaps the ECM, but please don't consider this an official GM diagnosis as we rely upon our dealerships for that.

    I realize you are just outside of the parameters of your Bumper-to-Bumper warranty.
    If you were to get us an email with more information, including your name/username and contact information (phone and address), the last 8 digits of your VIN, the name of your involved dealership and current mileage we would be able to evaluate the situation further, perhaps even contacting your dealership.

    Thank you very much,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • hadlockhadlock Member Posts: 8
    Thank you Sarah, as a longtime GM truck owner I appreciate this level of interest and support. I have sent you the info you request by separate email. Thanks again for your help. I'm hoping, with your help, this can have a happy ending. Steve
  • jhollis716jhollis716 Member Posts: 5
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pEIRRMrSVk&feature=youtu.be

    PLZ watch my video I have many more. Twade23 did that fix your problem for good?
  • jhollis716jhollis716 Member Posts: 5
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pEIRRMrSVk&feature=youtu.be

    I have been having the same problem for the longest time. I have more videos ill be updating in a few hours.
  • jhollis716jhollis716 Member Posts: 5
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pEIRRMrSVk&feature=youtu.be

    I have been having the same problem for the longest time. I have more videos ill be updating in a few hours.
  • hadlockhadlock Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for the message and the video. Unforunately I couldn't see what you did to correct the problem. Could you provide a little more information? Thanks, Steve
  • twade23twade23 Member Posts: 9
    Yeah it seems to have fixed my probkems. I havent had any cutouts or dimming of the lights since I tightened that plug under the fuse panel. Good luck getting yours fixed.
  • jhollis716jhollis716 Member Posts: 5
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-suNGn7J1s&feature=youtu.be

    More video of my truck acting up. This went on for a good while. Im fix too try tightening the plug under the fuse panel. Ill let y'all know what happens after i do it.
  • wstgawstga Member Posts: 11
    I had your exact same problem. Does your transmission down shift on a lower gear at highway speed ? Does your brake system become difficult to use when this happens ? My problem keeps getting worse.
  • bcopenhabcopenha Member Posts: 2
    Hi Savvy5000, Did you ever get your problem resolved with the auto locks on your truck "freaking" out? I have an 09 Sierra, and have had the exact problem you described. I have other electrical grimlins as well, and they look at me like I'm crazy when I've taken it to the dealership. I believe GM knows something is up, but is refusing to admit it.
    Thanks!
  • mandkhildemandkhilde Member Posts: 4
    Exact. Same. Problem.

    2009 silverado LT, crew cab. 5.3L

    Lights flicker with brakes, door locks intermittently freak out. Tonight lost power pulling out into traffic and without coasting truck up onto median would have wrecked. Precluded by wierd chimes and random downshifting. On two occasions two weeks apart, turned off ignition and all went dark and cold, similar to dead battery. On the second I used a jumper cable from negative terminal to frame and power came back. don't work.

    Have seen several similar posts and cant believe this isnt a recall/extended warranty period item, a quick response and escape route is the only thing that prevented an accident tonight! Of course Im 9000 miles over warrenty... Electrical gremlins get very expensive very quickly - PLEASE HELP!

    I've babied this thing since I've owned it, still looks new and has yet to see a trailer. Chevy, I've wanted a silverado since I first saw one, please don't let me down.... My wife has already uttered the "never again" phrase!
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Have you already been working with your dealership towards getting a diagnosis on this?
    We could explore what options are available to you through a Customer Assistance Case, which are evaluated on a case-by-case basis and also add to the database that GM uses to make product decisions. If you are interested in this, please send us an email with more information, including your name/Edmunds username, contact information (phone and address, please), the last 8 digits of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your preferred dealership.

    All the best,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • minerfanaticminerfanatic Member Posts: 1
    Just bought my truck without a keyless remote so I purchased one at the dealer and they wanted $65 to program it. No way. YouTube gives some instructions but none have worked. Ive tried holding the unlock button, turn ignition on/off twice, hold lock-unlock buttons on remote down, then turn ignition on-off one DID NOT WORK. I've also tried the Vehicle Info, "Press To relearn a remote Key" and there is no such option! Aggggggg!!!! Please help? Thank you all
  • twade23twade23 Member Posts: 9
    Well I was wrong. The problems have come back and are now worse than ever. I didn't think I was going to make it to work this morning, I was on top of a high rise bridge and I flicked my high beams on and the truck "freaked" out. All the lights went out the dash light got bright and dim over and over, the gauges went back and fourth, the door locks kept locking and unlocking and the engine kept stalling and then it would come back. The truck did this for about a mile until I stopped and pulled over then the truck went back to normal. Also I don't know if anyone else has heated seats, but my truck does and they were on also and only the driver side. I hate to even take this to the dealership because I know it is just going to cost me a bunch of money to fix a problem I haven't caused. I think GM should be looking into this problem and finding a fix for it before it causes someone to get hurt or killed.
  • twade23twade23 Member Posts: 9
    Hi shigzy, I am having the same problems you had, and I was just replying to ask if you have had anymore problems since replacing the ignition switch?

    Thanks,
    Twade23
  • dbrown205dbrown205 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2008 sierra and mine is doing the exact same thing as yours. the only exception is my service airbag light comes on at random times, but only when im driving by myself. im just disgusted because i've only had this truck a couple weeks and just started this yesterday. i had a 99 sierra and drove it for years without any problems. went to the dealership and getting the run around. let me know if you have any luck. thanks
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    I see that you are currently working with your dealership, dbrown205. If you would like assistance in this process, please don't hesitate to get in touch with us via email with more information, including your name, the last 8 digits of your vehicle's VIN, and the name of your dealership.

    Regards,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • mandkhildemandkhilde Member Posts: 4
    GM Sarah,

    I sent you an email yesterday to the address associated with your ID. Please advise.

    Thanks
  • twade23twade23 Member Posts: 9
    Hey I found this post link title and I replaced my ignition switch last night and I haven't had the problem yet. The ignition switch I bought from advanced auto for around 30.00 and I also purchased the service manual to step me thru replacing the switch. I will post an update in a couple of days after driving it some and see if I have the problem anymore.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Goodmorning,

    Thank you for sending us an email - we should be in contact with you sometime today.

    Regards,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • mandkhildemandkhilde Member Posts: 4
    Ok, had "it" happen again. Similar to a previous post this time it was triggered by turing on my brights.

    Luckily I got it on video...

    This time I'm absolutely positive the cycling locks and power loss was accompanied by ABS and Stabilitrack cautions. Also, of particular interesest, I am certain (as caught on video) the Airbag light momentarily illuminated - huge safety issue. A perfect storm of power loss at the right moment could lead to a crash where airbags don't deploy...

    I found my negative battery cable to be a tad loose at the battery. Although it's tightened down as far as it will go I could twist it back and forth on the post.

    For now (two nights ago), I've wedged a screw between the cable connector and post to tighten up the connection. Haven't had a problem since... (knock on wood). If all stays well for a few days, I'll investigate replacing the battery cable.

    Here's hoping!
  • dirtydog1937dirtydog1937 Member Posts: 12
    I used to have a 9Volt battery that plugged in the cigarette lighter to prevent the computer from powering down during battery change. I have lost it and wonder if anyone knows where I might get another one? All help appreciated. :cry:
  • twade23twade23 Member Posts: 9
    Well it has been 4 days now since I replace the switch and I haven't had the first sign of problems. So I am hoping that this fixes the electrical problems. I hope that maybe this helps others out there having the same problem. I will re-post later if everything continues to work fine. Good Luck.
  • givingupongmgivingupongm Member Posts: 5
    I nearly had my crash, I was doing 120 kph (70ish MPH) and the transmission went into 2nd, hard, the AWD Denali went into a sideways skid before I jarred it into neutral and pulled out of it.

    For the flickering headlights when the brakes are applied, my problem traced to a bad ground connection located on the front passenger frame rail, in-between the tow hook and the control arm. This flickering light also gave warnings of "Service TC" and "Service Stabilitrax". That problem hasn't come back yet.

    Now, occasionally while driving, the power will flicker on and off. This constantly resets the radio, cuts all lights, lights the dash up like a Christmas tree, and occasionally will prevent the vehicle from starting again.
    I believe that what I read on here about the hot spade connection under the fuse panel is the culprit since my battery posts are tight and clean. I'll check it tonight and update this tomorrow.

    I'm not sure what would cause the truck to downshift hard and get stuck in 2nd until it the battery is disconnected. I'll keep reading through this site, there's alot of pages on here.

    Thank you everyone for taking the time to input on this site.

    Happy New Year Eh!
  • johnsavedjohnsaved Member Posts: 7
    I bought my truck with 23,000 miles on it up in Ohio. Since I got the truck I have run the mileage up to 58,000 miles since last March. It has been into the dealer for the following warranty items:

    - Transfer case blew up due to a leaky case and no lubricant
    - Windshield washer fluid heater removed
    - Fuel pump and sending unit replaced due to spuratic fuel gauge readings

    About the time the transfer case went out (28,000 miles) was when the fuel gauge started giving me a fit. I also noticed that sometimes when I started the truck up that the radio would not power up. I did figure out that when this happened, all I had to do what hit the eject button on it and it would power on. I knew I had an electrical problem then and reported it to the dealer both when they attempted to fix the fuel gauge problem at 34,000 miles and then again at 37,000 mile, when they did actually get it fixed. I was OK with the minor inconvenience of having to hit the eject button occasionally to get my radio to power up until last week when all went haywire. While the motor was running not only did the radio go out but the door locks, gauge cluster, interior lights and I think the heater all went out. Thankfully when I turned the motor off and back on again, they all came back online BUT now they flip on and off at very random intervals and nothing I do changes anything.

    Electronically speaking, the guy I bought the truck from had LED running board and rear bumper lights installed and I have hooked up a set of spot lights on the front end, with the relays wired into the high beam circuit. I also have a Banks 6-Gun and Power Brake plugged in but nothing seems to change when they are unplugged.

    Based on what I have read, I am thinking there is some connection that has let moisture in and is giving one of the ECM's a fit. Also, I am in Northern Alberta and all this when crazy just after we had our first cold snap of the season.

    Anyone know where to start looking? The roads up here are real sloppy all of the time and the undercarriage get and stays wet just about all of the time.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    I am sorry to hear about your situation with your Denali, and am gathering that you are from outside of the United States. We do have Customer Assistance available in countries outside of the US, and if I can help direct you towards the appropriate center, please let me know.
    Best,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    I'm sure that you'll be getting some great feedback on here from other posters. If you wanted to get into contact with GM of Canada for Customer Assistance, they can be reached at 800-263-3777.
    Regards,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • givingupongmgivingupongm Member Posts: 5
    That hot spade connection was filled with green, white and orange corrosion.
    Buffed it all shiny, pinched the female end tighter, and packed it with di electric.

    Sarah, what can I modify on my transmission and still have power train warranty? I'd like to get some corvette servos, stiffer shift kit and a billet Shift fork, but if that'll void warranty then I will hold off.

    Thanks.
  • hadlockhadlock Member Posts: 8
    Sarah, Many thanks for your efforts. Thanks to you and Haselwood GMC the instrument panel was replaced today. I was offered a free replacement w/o warranty or a 1 year warranty replacement for $100. I chose the latter and was happy to do so since the truck was three months out of warranty when I reported the problem. Rich at Haselwood was very professional and helpful. I won't be bashful about telling folks about your excellent customer service. I love this truck and am happy that it is repaired. Thanks again.
  • snowman55snowman55 Member Posts: 1
    edited January 2012
    The problem im having is that the small bar under the gear indicator on the cluster doesnt always light up when putting into park. This started happening about 2 weeks ago, and is only happens periodically. When shifting form Drive to Park, the small bar usually stops under the R for reverse, and disappears. The transmission goes into park, but the small light bar is gone, and the doors stay locked. I have to manually hit the door lock/unlock button to unlock the doors, or turn the ignition off, and back on, then the light is under the park indicator, and the doors unlock. What also happens is if i am in reverse, and pull the lever to drive to go, the light is delayed for about 2 seconds, and then decides to move to D for drive. With the light bar still in R, even though the transmission is in drive, the reverse lights also stay on the the 2 seconds or so, until the bar moves to D, and they go off. The whole time this is happening, the transmission is always working correctly. When the light does move to under the D, i can hear a faint click under the dash on the steering column. I have the dash ripped apart, but can't quite locate where this is coming from. Is this an electrical issue, or part mechanical on the steering column, or both. I have read other electrical issues in this column, that lead to ignition switch. What i did try for giggles, was use the spare key, which has more wear than the one im using, and everything worked fine for about 5 times using the truck, but now it is back to doing what it was before.
    Any suggestions from anyone? Thanks.
  • carolinanativecarolinanative Member Posts: 1
    Alright so I just bought a 2009 Silverado Crew 5.3L for a personal Christmas present and I'm beginning to wonder if I have made a mistake. One week after I get the truck home, I'm driving down a dark two lane highway and brake for what I thought was a deer. I noticed that the lights flickered inside as well as the headlights. Hmmm, maybe im seeing things, not so lucky! Next I hit the high beams and the truck flips out! Engine starts down shifting, door locks go bananas, information center flashes code after code, door chimes sound off. The truck was acting up so back that I had no choice but to pull over and turn it off. Waited five minutes or so and got it going again. Drove another 100 miles or so to the house and turned the truck off. I was so baffled by what had just happened that I had to go and see if it would do it again if i drove it around the block. Well, I didnt drive it anywhere because it wouldnt even start! It was acting like it had no power and I had to open the door with the key. Now im mad... Battery showed voltage when I checked it with a multimeter and I went to check the ground terminal to chassis and HONK HONK! The alarm goes off and power is restored. The truck is under warranty so its going to the dealership! My wife n kids are scared to ride in the demon truck (which may or may not be a bad thing) and im so frustrated at America's truck right now. What is the best approach at the dealership? If I get the runaround... I will surely run to another brand. Please help
  • wstgawstga Member Posts: 11
    Normally this issue will not be easy to reproduce while the dealer has the truck. Mine would not show a error code. The problem will get worse over time. I recommend using a cell phone to video tape this problem when it happens. Some people say it comes from ignition , some say it comes from fuse terminals. I paid to have a mega fuse replace. Still did not fix issue. I hope they can find your problem and be careful when driving.
  • twade23twade23 Member Posts: 9
    I was having the same exacte problems with my 2008. I started with the fuse panel and that didn't work. I tried the mega fuse that didn't work. I finally found a discussion and that person said to replace the ignition switch. So I did and its been about three weeks now and I haven't had a reoccurance of the problems. If you go to the dealership to have the problem fixed I would suggest you tell them to do that first. Good luck and I am sorry your Christmas present is having problems and good luck on getting it fixed.
  • johnsavedjohnsaved Member Posts: 7
    Well, since my last post I was able to get a print out of all of the grounding points on my 2008 GMC Sierra 3500 in order to try and trace down a probably grounding problem. I got to the ground point on the outside of the frame directly below the drivers door and the bolt that holds the 1 ground eye and 1 ground spade (3 wires to 2 ground points / i.e. double stab from the factory) was stripped out and the connection was loose. On top of that, since the connectors were pointed downward, the crimp side being up acts as a cup, holding water in them. Being in the North (58th parallel) we tend to get significant snow fall (8 months worth) and with this ground point directly behind the front tire I am thinking that there is some corrosion in these wires as well.

    I unbolted the wires from the frame and noticed a good arc. When I reconnected them with a good bolt that I borrowed from another part of the truck the pump located on the inside of the frame opposite from the ground (I think it is the fuel pick up pump but not sure) started to run. I have never heard this pump run before. As I got into it to see what was going on there I noticed it has a quick connect on it with about 6-8 wires going into it and since the cup of the connector is pointing forward, it too had a significant amount of road slop on it along with a good size block of ice trapped up on the frame around it.

    Now that I have re-secured the ground many things aren't working (they worked before I tightened the ground) and the pump won't stop running (I disconnected the batteries)

    Any clue anyone?
  • bcopenhabcopenha Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem on an 2009 Sierra Crew 5.3L. In my case, the fix was to replace the hot wire from the battery. Not sure how a wire goes bad after a couple of years, but that fixed my problems. Again it was exactly the same issues. Power locks freak out, light flicker, total loss of power, etc. Then several times the truck would just be "dead" no power at all. Same as you, pop the hood mess with the battery cables, and honk honk, back to life. For what it is worth, I had to point the dealership tech in the direction of the battery cable (from researching on this site) because they couldn't recreate the problem. Hope you find the problem with yours, and please reply to this thread so we know what caused it. Battery cable like mine, or the ignition switch like twade23 had. Good luck!
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    If we can help you work with your dealership towards working towards a resolution on this concern, please send us an email with more information, including: your name/Edmunds username, contact information (phone and address please), the last 8 digits of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your involved dealership and appointment information.

    All the best,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Givingupongm,
    I am sorry to have taken so long to get a response to you! Sometimes our tool doesn't get posts to us, and I was cruising through Edmunds and found this one. So again, apologies.

    For your warranty question: Technically any modification to the vehicle can void the warranty, but a good rule of thumb is if the mod can be linked to the concern, it will not be covered. In my experience, if a vehicle concern does arise the dealership will first seek to bring the vehicle back to stock as a first step in trying to diagnose the source of the problem.

    I hope this is helpful for you,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • dcummins5563dcummins5563 Member Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem, the 08 GMC Sierra 1500 truck will go completely dead, if I jump start it, it will start right up, but I have to put the ground cable on the engine. Then when I hit the brakes the door locks go off and the lights will flicker. GM found no faults, this has happened 4 times. They put in a new battery, I'm sure that that isn't the problem, they said it had 2 dead cells. I just got the truck back today, so will keep you informed.
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