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Subaru Forester Transmission Questions

13

Comments

  • erik9erik9 Member Posts: 25
    I bought the car brand new, it had four miles on it when i test drove it..It seemed fine,over the next couple of days most of the rattles and noticable poor handling was apparent..i brought it back to the dealer,they did a warranty alighnment that made it corner better but it was worse on straight freeway driving..at 1000 miles i noticed the wheel noise vibration problem,it gets worse when you acccelerate or make sweeping turns and is most noticable when going on an uphill grade..i can feel it all the way up my arm and it hurts my eardrum when i drive with my left hand in the eight o clock steering position..i can also feel the vibration in the floorboard with my left foot..Yeah this car did fall apart after i bought it,i was planning on keeping this car a very long time. I have never taken a hard corner or driven this thing off city steets or the freeway..I still baby this pile of junk hoping someday somehow subaru might fix it!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I would start with checking the sway bars, make sure they are tight. Then I'd have the lower control arm bushings checked. That is most likely your issue. Also you might take it to a body shop and have them see if they can inspect the frame and/or unibody to see if perhaps it was in an accident in-transit before you took delivery which may be manifesting itself as a problem now. Most states allow anywhere from $1000-8000 worth of damage to be fixed and the car sold as new w/o disclosing the damage.

    -mike
  • erik9erik9 Member Posts: 25
    Mike,

    Thanks for the advice, i will check the sway bars myself and ask my attorney about the accident dislosure law..have a great evening..

    Erik..
  • morsethmorseth Member Posts: 10
    Erik,

    Thanks for the reply.

    It sounds like you are describing *EXACTLY* what I am experiencing. The noise for me is most prominent above 45MPH when accelerating, going up hills, or cornering to the left. I was hoping your response was going to end with a solution, but it looks like you're in the same boat as me.

    The service techs keep blaming it on the tires and regular old "road noise". They tried under inflating and over inflating the tires, to no avail. They've also rotated the tires. They claim they can't even hear this noise, yet family and friends that ride in the passenger seat or driver seat can all hear it. The noise is so hard to describe in words. It's almost like a dull, hollow, rattling/rumbling sound. Not high pitched or squeaky, but deeper and more of a rumble.

    It sounds like the noise is coming from directly underneath the driver side floorboards, from the driver's perspective. When this noise starts, I can feel subtle vibration through the steering wheel and on the floor. It's not a violent vibration, but I can feel it and it's synchronized with the weird sound.

    I don't hate the car, but I hate this noise. I grew up in a very car oriented family, constantly going to classic car shows with our '67 Camaro, '63 1/2 Galaxy, '87 Corvette, etc. We've always strived for perfection and quality mechanical upkeep of all our cars, and we've never encountered a problem we couldn't fix. But this is the first time I've owned a car with such a strange noise that no one (family or friends) has ever heard before, and none of us can figure out what the heck is causing it.

    I have an appointment with my private mechanic next month. I'm going to drive him around, and see what he thinks. I'll post back with my findings. If you or your mechanics/techs figure anything out, *please* let me know.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The poor handling didn't show up on a test drive? :confuse:

    Cars are the 2nd biggest purchase we make, after our homes. I'm shocked at how short test drives are for many folks.

    Something like that could easiliy have been noticed on a thorough test drive.

    Before you buy your next car, I suggest making a list of things to check for. Take the actual car you are buying out for a long drive, and go through the whole list.

    Best of luck.
  • erik9erik9 Member Posts: 25
    Morseth,

    Yes,it sounds like we have exactly the same noise but the subaru mechanics and myself have always thought that the problem was coming from the front passenger side wheel..after they replaced that bearing and the noise was still there they changed the drivers side front bearing,then the rear pass side,when that failed they replaced the transmission,when that failed they jacked up my tire pressure to 32 pounds all the way around and gave me the car which i test drove immediately and the noise was still there but the slip in the trans was gone..when i first noticed the noise i was going up a slight grade while turning to the left at about 40 mph as i continued on my journey i noticed it while driving straight ahead on the freeway whenever ther was a slight dip in the pavement or when i accelerated ..At first they said it was tire noise,then it was "well these cars are noisy just turn up the radio"
    The subaru mechanic agreed with me that it was a bearing or axle shaft..So any way i took the car to another dealer and they determined that the right front wheel bearing had failed again so they replaced it, gave me the car back and as soon as i got on the freeway the noise was still noticable..I argued with the service mgr that said the noise was normal,OK!! then why did it only show up at 1000 miles and 4 bearings and a trans were replaced to fix it? The service mgr had no response.I test drove one of the dealers rental foresters same car almost exact same miles as mine and i didnt hear the vibration noise after i took it for a long drive on the freeway...I have a contract in front of me from a no fee lemon law attorney that is will ing to take my case..You may want to do the same but you will probably have to go through all the hoops i have first..the last eight months of my life have been miserable because of this subaru piece of crap and all the run around by the dealers and soa customer service..let me know if you need more info..good luck bro

    Erik
  • erik9erik9 Member Posts: 25
    No , the poor handling didnt show on the test drive but i did mention the side to side bounce to the salesman,i only drove the car on a two lane hwy with a 50mph limit.I bought the car on a saturday,i was only planning on looking at the car not buying it that day but i got suckered in.The rattles were not noticable until the next day when i removed the interior plastic and i was able to go for a long drive in it.I brought the car back to the dealer mon afternoon..Youre right! next time i buy a car im gonna take a 100 mile test drive in it first..I wasnt expecting this considering subarus reputation.Now it just seems like the only quality they have is in their BS!
    Erik..
  • erik9erik9 Member Posts: 25
    Btw, both of my private mechanics said it sounded like a bearing..subaru will only recognize the opinions of their own factory trained mechanics..The test drive with the subaru area rep was a total waste of time and was for the most part insulting..

    Later,
    Erik..
  • morsethmorseth Member Posts: 10
    Ateixeira,

    Unfortunately, the noise didn't manifest itself until about 2 weeks after purchasing the car, after a couple of hundred miles were racked up. The car was new when purchased (about 38 miles on the odometer).

    I did take it for an extended test drive before purchasing, as I do with every car I buy, and the noise wasn't present during that time.
  • morsethmorseth Member Posts: 10
    Erik,

    The most frustrating this is that I have diagnosed this problem to the extreme. I know exactly what conditions make the sound worse, what makes it better, etc. I could understand if I was Joe-know-nothing that blindly walked into the service department just complaining about a generic noise, but I have given these guys excruciating details. It's almost as if they aren't really making any serious effort to fix it, or they don't trust my description of the problem.

    For me, the noise is exaggerated whenever the front left side of the car experiences negative G forces. So, when I turn to the left (causing the body to roll to the right), it causes the noise. When I accelerate, especially up hill, and the body weight shifts to the rear making the front end light, it causes it. If there is a small bump in the road causing the entire body to want to lift off the ground, it causes it. So basically, when the car's weight is lifted from the front left wheel for any length of time while accelerating, I get this crazy noise.

    The opposite is also true. Making a right turn, braking, or hitting a sudden dip in the road will immediately silence the noise. So, when I get positive G forces on the front left wheel and the weight of the body pushed down, everything is fine.

    Whether this is a suspension issue, a wheel bearing issue, or tie rod/steering issue is something I'm still trying to work out.
  • erik9erik9 Member Posts: 25
    Mike,

    I just finished checking the sway bars and they both seem very tight..I noticed a lot of oil on the plastic skid plate under the engine though..also my low fuel light doesnt come on,my tank was almost completely empty yesterday..im taking it to the dealer tommorow...unbelievable! this on top of everything else...

    Erik... :lemon:
  • erik9erik9 Member Posts: 25
    Morseth,

    If you would like more info and would to contact me outside of this forum you can do it through my website www.whiteeaglearmoury.com

    later,
    Erik..
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'd see how much the parts are for the clutch as well. SOA is paying for the labor to drop the trans and do the throwout bearing so you might as well pay for the clutch/pressure plate and have them put that in at the same time. It won't cost extra labor (which is being covered anyway).

    -mike
  • erik9erik9 Member Posts: 25
    Morseth, I feel your pain brother,this nightmare vibration noise has kept me awake at night for so long..There is no way this can be a common normal noise for this vehicle! NOBODY would ever buy one with this kind of condition!On a normal car you would say it has a bent drive shaft or axle most likely.. if i would have heard it on the test drive i would laughed in the salesmans face and got out of there fast..One thing is for sure though,both dealers have completely ignored my failing axle shaft theory..I have owned 10 or so used cars during my lifetime,most with 80 or 100 thousand miles on them when i purchased them,not one of them ever needed a bearing or trans replaced...I even had a front wheeel drive ford escort and never had any noises or trouble...Obviously the bearings and the trans arent making the noise on mine and they still act stupid and dont even give me any dumb excuses like 'the car was engineered that way for long life and superior performance" I wonder if maybe our cars had the same production date and some disgruntled subaru employee put our cars together half [non-permissible content removed] or the axle shafts that we got are just plain defective..Maybe you can take a copy of my posts to the dealer and show him what was done to my car for the same problem? you may want to just go straight to an attorney! A class action lawsuit against subaru for this problem looks very likely to me..WOW! this is completely screwed up why did i ever buy a subaru.! lol..
    Erik :lemon:
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    It takes more than 2 cars to have a class action lawsuit.

    I would say that since it doesn't seem to be the bearings or the trans, it could be the axles, very in-expensive to replace actually.

    -mike
  • erik9erik9 Member Posts: 25
    Mike,

    There are two forester owners with the same problem on this forum alone.I bet there are many others with the same problem..Some probably gave up trying to have the problem fixed and are still driving their foresters believing that its a normal condition,others probably traded theirs in for a big loss..I havent finished checking all the other subaru forester tech forums yet ...

    Happy holidays :lemon:

    Erik
  • joudingjouding Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 2001 forester taking up space in my garage. I spent last weekend picking it up from nashville. She drove it with mismatched tires and the dealer down there said it needed new transfer case clutches to the tune of $1500 among other things. I read somewhere on line that I could try to change the fluid and add some limited slip goop made by GM. Is that worth a try or could I do more damage? Also can I plug in the FWD fuse and use the car as is without causing more harm? I'm driving an F-350 with a powerstroke diesel back and forth to work now and fuel is causing some hardship. I'll be back with more repair questions soon. Thanks for the forum...jo
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'd pickup a used tranny and drop it in. I'm assuming it's an automatic since you said there is a FWD fuse. Used you can get one for about $900-1000 and another $500 to put it in.

    -mike
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    With the cooler NW winter temperatures (32 degrees - 40 degrees), my 2005 Forester X 4EAT is shifting more abruptly. It’s never been smooth, but seems worse in the cool weather. It's really bad for the 1st couple of shifts. Then it gets better. Still hard shifting, but not jarring. It's less abrupt when the temperature is warmer.

    Car has 40k and tranny fluid was replaced at about 30k. Mechanic added a SOA synthetic tranny additive later after I mentioned the rough shifts. Additive had no effect.

    What would cause such rough shifts when the fluid is cold? Should I worry or live with it?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    Well, the car holds gears longer until the transmission fluid is up to temperature. It does this in order to warm up faster. This could result in a more abrupt shift, but it is hard to say whether the car has a problem or not without feeling the abruptness. I have never driven a Subaru that has a silky-smooth, imperceptible shift when the transmision is warm, but I would not call it abrupt either, just noticeable. In cold temperatures, especially below 0F, the shifts are certainly abrupt until it warms up.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • aceonthebeach3aceonthebeach3 Member Posts: 17
    I am looking to buy a forester. It seem that there are two different a-wheel drive systems. I am not really bias eighter way on auto or stick shift but could someone explain the difference in the auto All-wheel drive and the stick shift all-wheel drive system? Which is better? Thanks in advance.
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    The MT uses a mechanical system while the AT's is computerized. I'm sure someone can post a link to a description of the two but the end result is that both systems do an excellent job of directing power to the wheels that need it. I personally wouldn't use the AWD system as a deciding factor for which model to buy.

    -Frank
  • aceonthebeach3aceonthebeach3 Member Posts: 17
    thank you for your help. The MT they say uses a locking differental while the AT uses a limited slip differental,I don't think those are the same. anyway thanks for your help, I have never owned a subaru so this is all new to me
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Subarus don't have locking differentals. In regards to limited slip differentals, a LSD works by varying power from side to side and is not transmission specific.

    The biggest difference between the AT and the MT AWD systems is that the MT has a 50/50 (front/rear) power split under normal conditions. Meanwhile, the AT begins with a 80/20 split (rear/front) and adjusts power delivery from there.

    Hope this helps :)

    -Frank
  • aceonthebeach3aceonthebeach3 Member Posts: 17
    thanks for the help frank. let me read this to you straight from the brochure and you can sort it out for me "2.5x and 2.5xt models equipped with a 5-speed manual tansmission utilize a viscous-type locking center differential and limited slip differential" I am not saying you are wrong but the way they word this is very hard for a new comer, you are probably right. it seems the MT to be more of a true all-wheel drive than the AT... frank have you driven a MT and a AT? I think that under normal driving the power split will not be a big difference but how about when you are in snow or mudd?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Basically, the viscous coupling acts as the center differential. When the axles spin at different speeds, the fluid-filled coupling heats up and the fluid thickens and locks the axles together temporarily.

    The AT uses what they call Auto AWD, basically electronically controlled variable transfer clutches. Simple yet effective.

    Here is a cool video - you see a basic Forester X auto having no trouble transferring power from axle to axle, front to rear and rear to front. Note how little wheelspin there is on the Forester:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t09ExAUgtyE&feature=related

    Both systems are very capable.

    The 2009 models adds traction/stability control, so it will only improve.
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    "... could someone explain the difference in the auto All-wheel drive and the stick shift all-wheel drive system?"

    Here are some bits and pieces I have picked up about Forester drive trains:

    The X Sports model (either manual or auto) and the LL Bean model (comes auto only) have X model drive trains.
    All the Forester drive trains have viscous limited slip rear differentials.

    The printed catalog lists the drive trains as follows:

    Manual X and XT = Continuous AWD:
    Viscous locking center differential and limited slip rear differential.

    Automatic X = Active AWD:
    Electronically controlled variable multiplate transfer clutch and viscous limited slip rear differential.

    Automatic XT = VDC (engine management and traction control system) and VTD (Variable Torque Distribution) AWD:
    Electronically controlled variable multiplate transfer clutch, planetary center differential, and viscous limited slip rear differential.

    ----------
    If you have the automatic transmission, power in Drive and 3rd is biased 80/20 toward the front. There is 50/50 power distribution front and rear if you place the selector lever in 2nd or 1st. If you have a manual transmission the split is 50/50 in all gears.
    If you have Limited Slip Differential (optional in non-X models, standard in XT models), you'll have at least three of four wheels available. If you don't, you could have two wheels of four available, one front and one rear.

    ----------
    No forester in the US has a front LSD unfortunately (apparently only the forester STI ever got one). The nonvdc foresters have a front open diff with a clutch pack in the center of the car to distribute power f-r and either an open rear diff in the X model or viscous limited slip in the rear on XS and XT models. The forester vlsd is very loose though. A US Forester will act the same as any awd or 4wd that has open diffs. A non-Rubicon Jeep Wrangler will do the exact same thing. You will always have at least 2 wheels spinning, and you can drive through the brakes to get power to transfer.
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    Another bit of info just copied:
    -----------------------
    In the non-X models, when there are LSDs, both automatic and manual models use the rear mechanical LSD. The difference comes at the fore/aft transfer case... Automatic goes electronic (the E in 4EAT) and while in 4 or 3 shifter location, varies the ratio from 80/20 to 50/50 based on "sensed need".
    When shifter location is in 2 or 1, the 4EAT locks the center differential at 50/50 power distribution.
    When shifter location is in 2, the 4EAT locks second gear. First gear can't be accessed while shifter is in 2, so take-offs are in second gear. Sounds stupid on pavement, but in wintry locations, where snow and ice are common, it seems a lot smarter.

    Why are 3 and 4 different from 1 and 2? For reasons of economy having power distributed mostly up front makes a lot of gas mileage sense, with power only going to front pair...plus by the time you're in third and fourth gears, you shouldn't be having traction problems (certainly possible with turbo models, but not advisable in normal use...ie, above speed limit). Wonder why the automatic has traditionally gotten better mileage than the manual? ...it's the E in 4EAT.
    --------------------------------
  • aceonthebeach3aceonthebeach3 Member Posts: 17
    thanks everyone for your help. i think the XT trim sounds like it is the best.
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    Which trim? The XT is fabric, with a slightly better seat fabric than the X. The XT Limited is leather. But to get a turbo just because of better seat fabric does not make sense, so it must be the leather trim of the XT Limited that you like best. But if leather is best, you can get it without the turbo in the LL Bean. Unless you want a manual transmission, which is not offered in the LL Bean, so you are back to the XT Limited.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Check out the video, though.

    When they say 50/50, I wonder if they mean the power split, or the fact that axles are locked somehow.

    In the video, notice the front axles doesn't spin at all when it's on rollers. The rear axle also does not spin when it's on rollers.

    If the front axle were actually getting 50% of the power at a minimum, they would be spinning like mad. Yet they remain still, implying zero power to that axle. Remember there was no traction control on that model (2006-7 X automatic).

    Theory is great, but in practice, that front axle gets no power at all, hence it does not spin when it's on rollers.

    Suffice it to say, it just works.
  • aceonthebeach3aceonthebeach3 Member Posts: 17
    I want turbo, and I want leather. I always have dealers do aftermarket leather. it saves me money. I will do a XT auto and add aftermarket leather
  • firstsubfirstsub Member Posts: 11
    I have 2009 forester 2.5 X w/ premium and a day later i started to hear a "rolling noise" from the fron drivers side.. I took back to dealer & they suggested I change tires. (road noise). Called yokohama & they replaced N/C . I put on Avid H4S yokohama and same noise still there. I'm not sure this is the same noise as you're having. Started a case with SOA and subaru rep will look at car on 5/12. test drove another 2009 forester and same noise but les evident. Dealer also confirmed same after driving another vehicle. I love the car but hate this noise. Hoping for a resolve. Dealer said bearing were ok. Maybe axe. who knows.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I thought bearings, too, they're OK, eh?

    Drive in a figure 8 in an empty parking lot. See if that does anything. This is advice SoA techs shared with us in the past.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Good to know as I am hearing some different, odd rumbling sounds from vehicle that show up at higher speeds. When I get chance I will try figure 8 in our lot to better understand.
    Then again, it could be because our roads have been dry lately, and most of my driving up to now has been on wet roads/in rainy weather.
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    "... I put on Avid H4S yokohama and same noise still there."

    The EOM Yokahoma Geolandars on my 08 were very noisy. I think the same tires are used for 09. The tread sang and whined on smooth surfaces, and the stiff sidewalls transmitted roar from coarse surfaces. They have good handling, snow and off-road traction and tread life, but I did not like them for my general driving.

    After 3,500 miles I sold the Geolandars and put on Michelin Primacy MXV4's, which have a tread pattern similar to your new Avid H4S. All the tire noise disappeared.

    However:
    1. I selected the Primacy because it was advertised and reviewed as being a very quiet tire, like the TripleTread and the Pilot Exalto. I don't see the same thing for the AVID, so it may be another noisy tire.
    2. I would not describe any of my tire noise as "rolling". Singing, whining, roaring, but not rolling. Perhaps Yokohama gave you new tires for a mechanical problem.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    took longer drive on freeway last night and didn't hear any odd sounds from drivetrain.
    Anyone else have a chirping headliner/headliner light box? Am still hearing this in some temperatures so I have some more sleuthing to do. ;)
  • dchessondchesson Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 forester with a 5 speed manual and 65000 mi. It's been running great, until this morning. Tried to accelerate and it sounds like the clutch is slipping. Its very difficult to get it above 30 miles per hour. 1st , 2nd, and 3rd grears really slip while accelerating. Once in 4th and 5th gears there is no slipping and I'm able to maintain 40 plus miles per hour with no problem. Gears don't grind and no leaking fluid. I have about 3/4 to 1 inch of freeplay in clutch pedal. Clutch pressure feels the same as it always has. Is this a clutch problem or a viscous coupling problem? What will this type of repair possibly cost.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Sounds about right for the clutch. They only last about 80k miles so 67k could be possible. I'd say it's the clutch based on your observations. Typically you'll get slipping in the lower gears first.

    -mike
  • dchessondchesson Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the help! I've replaced a clutch on an old 1958 VW Bug and a 1968 Squareback before. Is a Subaru clutch job something a shade tree mechanic could handle or is it best left for the pros. I've found several web sites with clutch kits for about $250. What do you figure the labor for the job would run.
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    "... Typically you'll get slipping in the lower gears first. "

    My experience is that clutch slip is first evidenced in top gear when applying heavy throttle at highway speed, per this quote:

    "... When a clutch starts to slip, the slippage will be most noticeable when the engine is under load... in a high gear, when driving up a hill, when accelerating to pass another vehicle..."
    http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/bf40459.htm

    That is why clutch slip is also tested by using the top gear, per this quote:

    "... Depress the clutch pedal and put the transmission in fourth gear. Slowly let up on the clutch while stepping on the gas pedal. If you are able to completely release the clutch pedal without the engine stalling (or the car moving), your clutch is history..."
    http://www.ehow.com/how_7687_diagnose-slipping-clutch.html
  • mortemorte Member Posts: 1
    I had the same "pause before shifting into drive "problem with my 1999 Subaru Forester (94,000 miles). I took the car to a transmission repair shop (Croteau's in Johnson City, NY) and they said it was "defective low clutch seals" which they replaced for a grand total of $1028.74.

    Here's the cost breakdown if you're considering having this repair done on your car: Labor ($690) + Parts ($262.54) + Tax ($76.20) = $1028.74

    The parts include: Gasket/Seal Kit ($196.55) + Internal Filter ($15.43) + Spin-On Filter ($10) + Transmission Fluid ($40.56) = $262.54

    The shop owner said that except for the seals, the transmission was in great shape. Furthermore, he said he has seen enough 1999 Subaru Foresters come in to his shop with this problem that he knew exactly what was going on as soon as I described the "pause before shifting into drive" problem to him over the phone.

    By the way, before I took my car to Croteau's, I called my local Subaru dealer. The Subaru dealer gave me the following quotes: $6000 to rebuild the transmission, or $4000 to replace the transmission with a new, remanufactured transmission, or $2200 to install a used transmission from a junk yard.

    Before Croteau's did any work on my car, they estimated that the replacement of the seals would cost about $1000. Or, in the worst case scenario, once they opened up the transmission and saw that it had to be rebuilt, they could rebuild it for about $2300. The $1028.74 I spent to replace the seals was a lot of money, but compared to the prices the Subaru dealer quoted, I'm not complaining.

    Based on my limited experience, my advice is: if your Forester goes in reverse with no problem, but hesitates when put in drive, it's probably the seals that need to be replaced. If you want to have the seals replaced, find a reputable transmission repair shop. Avoid the Subaru dealer and their outrageous prices.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I generally drive my cars hard so I will notice the slip in 1st and 2nd on hard starts from traffic lights or accelerating onto the highway. In 4th and 5th I am rarely mashing the pedal or really getting to higher RPMs, whereas I usually wind out 1st and 2nd more than 4th and 5th.

    The letting out the clutch slowly w/o giving it gas is also a proceedure I use as well.

    I have seen where a faulty master or slave cylinder has caused what appeared to be slippage in the non-turbo cars (RS most notably).

    -mike
  • onoffroadonoffroad Member Posts: 17
    When I shift gears,the clutch makes a clump you can hear and feel ! Especially going in to 2nd and 3rd ! 08 Forester !
  • grahampetersgrahampeters Member Posts: 1,786
    G'day

    If the vehicle has reasonable wear, it sounds like brake master cylinder on its way out. Not a hugely expensive repair but necessary after about 80,000 miles if clutch has been heavily used.

    Cheers

    Graham
  • onoffroadonoffroad Member Posts: 17
  • needy1900needy1900 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, sporadically the automatic transmission will not down shift while going up a grade or hill. There is also a sporadic issue with the check engine light going on. It seems that the transmission has downshifting issues when the check engine light is on. Sometimes the check engine light comes on at start up and other times it can come on while driving but it is not on all the time. Both issues are sporadic but atleast once a day.

    Can you offer any guidance?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    Get a code reader.... It would pay for itself in no-time at all! If you can get the codes, you would have a much better idea of what is happening.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • subidoosubidoo Member Posts: 3
    Just joining the forum. I see a bunch of people with same issue here and curious how much "time" I have left on my clutch, if that is indeed what's up. Just did the 4th gear start trick: she rolled forward about 1/2 way up the clutch and then started to stall, as one would expect so she's not totally toast yet. I'm having the infamous clutch shudder in 1st when starting out, much worse when going uphill than flat (obviously) AND she really hates to go into reverse (grinds and then drops in - I start the car AFTER she's in reverse now!). The rest of the gears are flawless. Is there a possibility it's something OTHER than a full clutch replacement that's needed????
    I just bought the car private party ($2000 so I'm not bitching- she's leather & loaded + the head gaskets, timing belt, etc done in the last 1000 miles) so I don't know what her history is but she rides GREAT other than the clutch issue. All help and ideas MUCH appreciated!!! :confuse:
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    How many miles on the clutch? Reverse is always an issue especially on the subies, but shouldn't be that bad to get into.

    Clutches go about 60-80k miles on the subies, so you are probably due.

    -mike
    Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
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