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Comments
http://www.free-lemon-law-guide.com/magnuson-moss-warranty-act.php
Dave Kopesky
My oil light came on before the first oil change, then again before the second oil change. I was slow in getting it in to service this issue, now they are caliming it is my poor maintenace that caused the engine problems.
I have a 2005 Altima with 32,000 miles on it, still under warranty, and I have to pay $3,000 out of pocket to replace the engine that never worked right with a rebult engine. I hope the rebuilt engine works better.
thats in you paperwork, and by doing that you voided your warrnaty. any car company will stipulate that if the oil light or certain other things happen, you are to stop driving the vehicle and get it to the dealership immediately. Few people do, but everybody should read the warranty and owners manual. In fact, I'd say it should be required before a car can leave the lot.
Please see the Membership Agreement for full details. It's linked at the bottom of the page. If you have questions, feel free to drop me an email.
Thanks for your understanding and cooperation.
Have there been other reports of this problem. It really surprised me.
Tcaft
First, I heard and read about the TSB and Recall on SOME of the cars about the problem with the precatalytic converter. My daugher took her car to the dealer and asked if this precatalyst recalled applied to her car, They looked up the VIN, and of course they said no. My understanding is that "under certain conditions", material from within the precatalyst can get sucked back into the engine, and the small particles can damage the cylinders, rings and plugs while bouncing around in the engine. I always thought this was very odd, as exhaust gas is supposed to be coming OUT of the engine, and INTO the precatalyst, and then OUT the precatalyst and DOWN the exhaust pipe and OUT the tail pipe. SO, how could this material go back up into the engine when all this exhaust gas is supposed to be coming out? It would seem that there would have to be some kind of pressure or force from somewhere to push the material back through the engine exhaust ports into the engine, but from where? So I thought about this for a while, then my daughter calls and says her 2002 Alitima 2.5S is making this strange sound, like air whoosing, when she steps on the gas, and the engine had very little power. But she kept driving it for a while until she could get by my house for me to look at it. When I did look at it, it did indeed make a strange whoosing sound, like a sound of rushing air when I stepped on the gas, at idle it sounded almost normal. So I looked underneath the car and I found exhaust gas was gushing out of the point where the bottom of the exhaust manifold/precatalyst is connected to the exhaust pipe with 2 springs and a gasket. It makes kind of a flexible connection so the the engine can rock back and forth a little bit. So I said that there must be quite a bit of pressure in the exhaust pipe for it to be leaking out like that with such force. So then I went to the back of the car to see how much gas was coming out the tail pipe, and when I checked I could feel none! When she revved the engine, I could barley feel a bit of exhaust gas. The exhaust was plugged up! So I got underneath the car and found that the exhaust pipe continues under the center of the car until it gets to this 2nd Catalytic converter before the muffler, it looks like a double cone, narrow at each end and fat in the middle. I felt the temperature of the exhaust pipe, and it was hot near the exhaust manifold, but got cooler as I felt closer to the 2nd catalytic converter. When I felt the 2nd catalytic converter, it was still cold, even after the engine ran for several minutes. That means it was plugged up! I unbolted the pipe and 2nd catalytic converter and took it off and unplugged it, put it back on, and the car ran perfect again. The gasket at the flexible connection was still perfectly good. The exhaust gas had been allowed to leak out at that point due to the spring connectors, when the pressure in the pipe got high enough the springs would compress, allowing the joint to open slightly, and allow the exhaust gas to leak out. Therefore, the pressure was high in the exhaust pipe all the way from the engine exhaust ports to the 2nd catalytic converter. This section of precatalyst/exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe has a volume and acts like a pressure tank holding high pressure when the engine is running, having higher pressure when the engine runs faster. So this is what happens, the exhaust coming out the engine exhaust ports is not a constant flow, as the exhaust valves are opening and closing very fast, so the gas comes out pulsating, pushing against the already high pressure in the precatalyst. At the end of a strong pulse, the high pressure in the precatalyst can actually push some gas back up into the exhaust port, because of the high gas pressure in the precatalyst. So, the Exhaust gas is exhausting into high pressure, and some of the high pressure can push back up into the exhaust ports in between the high pressure pulses of exhaust gas coming out of the exhaust ports. Under "certain conditions" it is possible for material to blow from the precatalyst back into the engine causing engine damage.
So, what does all this mean? I believe the problem originates with the design of the exhaust system, having the 1st catalytic converter so very close to the exhaust ports. I don't know of any other car that has the 1st catalytic converter built into the exhaust manifold so close to the exhaust ports. The problem doesn't seem to arise until there is backpressure in the system that can cause the precatalyst material to blow back into the engine.
I have not seen anywhere, where anyone has given a practical explaination as to why this is occuring, but this is the most sensible theory that I have been able to come up with. I believe that since the Nissan exhaust system design may have caused the problems with the engine, Nissan should pay the cost of fixing these cars. So I'm ready to jump on this band wagon too.
I would be very interested to hear comments from other owners who may have experienced this same problem or something similar. Has anyone else had problems with exhaust restrictions or similar problems?
Regards,
E.D. ISF
It is strange that you had the cracked head gasket problem, my daughters Altima seems to also have the same problem, it had some combustion gas leaking into the cooling system. I put some cooling system sealer in it, and it is fixed it for now. I don't really want to tear into the engine if I don't have to. It is most likely a leaking head gasket, but it could be a cracked head or cracked block. I read one report where a guy said his had a cracked block and had to get another engine, but that cost almost $4,000.00, too much for me. I am struggling right now just trying to get my daughter through college, and there is no money for major car repairs, so I am hoping to nurse it along with the cooling system sealer. I used the Bar's Leak Pelletized Cooling System Sealer and it seems to work well so far. If worst comes to worse, I will have to pull the head off to see where the problem lies, but small head gasket leaks are very hard to see, and I would have to send the head out and have it checked for trueness and any cracks. And I hate working on those kind of engines with all those timing chains and tensioners, the timing chains on the passenger side being hard to see and reach. So I'll do major engine work on it only as a very last resort. I told my daughter to try to save some money and next time buy a Toyota or Honda.
So, about your car, what makes you think the engine may be going bad? Keep all the maintenance up and keep the oil filled up and it should last a while yet, depending on how much oil it is using. How much oil it is using is one way to measure how good the engine is. You can also check the cylinder compression on each cylinder. A good engine should have good compression, a poor engine would have weak compression. I checked the compression on my daughters Altima and it had 190 pounds on all 4 cylinders with dry cylinders and at normal cranking speed. This is real good, especially since the numbers where all the same, so it made me feel good about the engine, I know that the compression rings are holding well, the oil consumption problem most probably has something to do with a problem with the lower oil control rings on the pistons. This amount of compression looked very good to me. The compression readings should all be within 20% of each other, the closer the better. As an example using my 190 numbers, 20% of 190 = 38. So the lowest cylinder shoud read no more than 38 less than 190 = 152. If I would have had numbers that read 190, 180, 170 & 160, I would have been ok, but the 190 numbers being all the same is much better. If I would have had numbers like 190, 170, 160 & 140, I would have had a problem with that low cylinder, and I would have to do some further checking. It could be due to leaking valves, leaking rings, leaking head gasket or worse.
If you have doubts about you engine, do a compression check to verify the general health of the engine. A cylinder with low compression indicates a problem. Any auto shop can do it, so call to check prices, or you can do it yourself if you are up to it. You can buy a nice compression tester on the net for about $30 to $35. Write down the compression readings on a piece of paper with the date and mileage and keep for future reference.
Since you have put some money into the car, and since you owe so much on it, I would try to keep it going, as long as it doesn't drain your wallet dry. It helps a lot if you can do your own work on the cars. I don't know what your Altima is worth right now. If it is worth a lot, or you owe a lot on the car, then that may be a good reason to try to keep it going. But if it turns out to cost you too much money to keep it going, it may be best to get something else that
Good luck to you.
E.D. ISF
1-140
2-145
3-145
4-145
Sitting at about
550 miles on the car since the cat was replaced and oil change. The oil has gone down significantly since then. It is about 1/2 way down the "checkered" (Between the High and Low line) area on the dipstick. Now I need to decide if I go after Nissan to replace my engine for free, or if I should just trade it in before it quits running. Has everybody seen this website: http://www.nissannews.com/site_library/corporate/recalls/2003/recall3-18-03.shtm- l
It says that Nissan will pay to replace the engine if the cat going bad causes engine failure.
I hope that your low compressions are from something other than worn out rings and cylinders. Continue to monitor the oil consumption, the maximum that you should use is 1 quart in a 1000 miles. If the oil is not leaking out, and you use more oil than 1 qt in 1000 miles, this would help confirm that your engine has a serious problem.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Read the manual again it clearly states in the Maitanance manual that oil changes are every 3,750 miles :sick:
Dave
Just as everyone else I have been having problems with my Nissan Altima '07. It has been the worst car ever and im stuck with it for the next three years...(by the way anyone has any ideas how can i get rid of it without loosing to much money?) any ways i took it to the dealer because it was rattling and shaking when accelerating and even more shaking when going above 60miles... they changed the transmission mount.. of course without even consulting me... but does anyone know if this is the issue? i thought these repairs were for old or worn out cars...
Thank youuuuu
Welcome to CarSpace - hope we can help!
While I did not buy the answer, and since I know little about cars, I took his answer and waiting three days, the check engine light is still on and the car runs but it may not start or the engine cuts off.
Is anybody familiar with problem? What can I have checked out beside the mechanic.
Eric
Thanks for the suggestion.
Eric
The check engin light is on. I do not think there is a broken motor mount. A broken motor mount would only make a clunk at first accerleation. This is a problem whereby the engine makes a clunking noise and shakes around at RMP over 2,200.
Does anyone know what is happening here?
Nissan Recalls US Cars, Engine May Stop Running
Japan's Nissan Motor said on Thursday it will recall 713,986 Altima and Sentra cars in North America, mostly in the United States, because their engines may suddenly stop running.
http://www.cnbc.com/id/21924804/from/ET/
Am not car saavy and dont know what to do. The car was $8000 and 10 months later they want me to spend $5000 on it! Could have bought a new Versa with that money.
Please let me know if I should pay it or is there any other resolutions?
Thanks in advance.
Please go back and read my post #75 in this Forum and also read #76 & #77, it will explain a lot. It's probably too late to help you now, once the engine is too far gone. My daughters 2002 2.5S, bought at end of 2003, the Altima did not show any problems until about 97,000 miles at around Sept 2007. I think it was because I have been taking good care of it since she had it. I do all the servicing myself and only use Synthetic Motor Oil and Synthetic Motor Oil Filters. When she bought this car in 2003 with 29,000 miles, there was no bad history on this vehicle, and no one saw these problems coming. Everyone thought they were great cars, until they got enough miles on them for the problems to start.
So my daughters 2002 Altima 2.5L is burning some oil now, but I unplugged the REAR CAT a few months ago, when I clogged up completely. I took it off and made it into a hollow CAT, and I works fine now. But the engine also has a leaking head gasket, leaking coolant into one cylinder at times, and leaking combustion gas into the cooling system at times. I put some coolant sealer in the radiator and it has fixed it enough to drive for a couple of months until I can schedule to work on it.
So the time is close now, I start work on it Sunday Dec 09, 2007, I am going to pull the head and send it out to be checked and reworked, replace the head gasket, Remove the PRECAT and unplug it and hollow it out, so that nothing can blow back up into the engine and destroy it. If I can't get away with a hollow PRECAT, I'll have to find another one somewhere. The Engine is luckily still in good enough shape, as the compression in all 4 cylinders was 190 pounds.I will find out more about the condition of the cylinder walls when I get the head off. I will also find out the condition of the valve guides and seals when the head is in the shop, I'm hoping new valve seals will stop the oil burning.
I will post updates here to tell what I find and what I do about it. I am sure that when I am done with it, it will be a good engine for beyond 150,000 miles and she will have gotten rid of it by then. I told her no more Nissans, next car is going to be a Toyota or Honda. I am budgeting about $500-$600 to do this job, doing all the work myself, Head work $100-$300 depending on what needs to be done, $80 for new head bolts, $80 for new gaskets, and throw in another $100 for oil, antifreeze, hoses, and miscellaneous parts and materials.
Good luck guys,
E. D. in Sunny Florida
not really. Nissan has sold over a million altima's. The number that have this problem is very low. less than 5%.
So here is a word of caution and advice to those of you who may be interested, If your engine seems to suddenly lose power, check your exaust pipes at the back of the car to see if the exhaust gas is still coming out freely. If no flow or low flow, you may have the same problem that I described with the plugged cat. If you do have the problem, it needs to be fixed ASAP before it causes damage to the engine.
I am continuing to take the engine apart and will let you know what else I find. I can only work on it about 2 or 3 hours a night, since I work during the day. I expect I should have the head off in a couple more days.
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida