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MAKE/MODELS: MODEL/BUILD YEARS:
Nissan/Altima 2002 2005-2006
Nissan/Sentra 2002 2005-2006
MANUFACTURER: Nissan North America, Inc.
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: 07V527000
MFR'S REPORT DATE: November 08, 2007
COMPONENT: Engine and Engine Cooling
POTENTIAL NUMBER OF UNITS AFFECTED: 653910
SUMMARY:
On certain passenger vehicles equipped with a 2.5L engine, the crankshaft position sensor can overheat causing a brief interruption in the signal output from the sensor.
CONSEQUENCE:
If the interruption in the signal from the crankshaft position sensor is so brief that the Electronic Control Module (ECM) logic does not have time to diagnose the condition, the engine may stop running without warning while the vehicle is driven at a low speed increasing the risk of a crash.
REMEDY:
Dealers will reprogram the ECM free of charge. Certain M/Y 2006 Altimas which have been previously remedied under recall campaign 06V223000 (Nissan R0606) are not included in this recall since the reprogramming for 06V223000 also included this reprogramming. The recall is expected to begin on or about December 10, 2007. Owners may contact Nissan at 1-800-647-7261.
NOTES:
This is an expansion of a previous campaign (06V223000). Customers can also contact The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.
DESCRIPTION:
Component Description
The crankshaft position sensor (POS) is located on the cylinder block rear housing facing the gear teeth (cogs) of the signal plate at the end of the crankshaft. It detects the fluctuation of the engine revolution.
The sensor consists of a permanent magnet and Hall IC. When the engine is running, the high and low parts of the teeth cause the gap with the sensor change.
The changing gap causes the magnetic field near the sensor to change.
Due to the changing magnetic field, the voltage from the sensor changes.
The ECM receives the voltage signal and detects the fluctuation of the engine revolution.
REPLACEMENT:
1. Loosen the fixing bolt of the sensor.
2. Disconnect crankshaft position sensor (POS) harness connector.
3. Remove the sensor.
These sensors can be checked by an ohm meter but I don't have the terminal positions or the values. A repair manual would probably show you these.
I am new to the forum. My engine is making this loud vibration when I am at a stop. the vibration is a little less noticable when it is a park or neutral. I was told by jiffy lube that it was the tension pulley and that the belt was fine. I took it in to the delership the service person that writes up the service ticket (not a mechanic) told me it was the alternator.
Is there anyway to find out which one it is. The dealership told me that it was going to cost 600.00 for just the alternator plus labor. jiffy lube told me they don't do that kind of work put the tension pulley should not cost more than 50.00, and 60.00 for labor.
Thanks for your help
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm
Above is the link. We have because she cannot afford the $5,000 they say it costs to replace ther motor.
Our Service Engine Light came on a couple of days ago and we've noticed that car was using more oil than should have been. We have 119K on the car which we bought new in 02. Went on-line to research and found 100's of posts about the converter failure and the need for new engines that Nissan isn't taking responsibility for. I spoke with a service advisor at a local Nissan dealership yesterday and was told that the problem is so common, that Nissan recently extended the factory warranty to 15 years/150K miles for 04's, 05's and 06's. Of course, our car was not included. He explained what is happening to the engines and advised me to call Nissan Headquarters and open a case. I called and opened a case and then made an appointment with the dealership to take care of the latest recall that we weren't notified of. Took the car in this morning and was told that the recall was taken care of the last time we brought the car in so Service Engine light is still on and is being caused by an Engine Misfire. I was told for more information, we would have to have a diagnostic test performed. I'm fairly confident I know what the results are going to be. Could you fill me in a little further about your case? I'm willing to fight to the top to get this resolved. Thanks in advance.
It seems to go from 1st gear to 2nd, then almost back to 1st, then to 2nd, then to 3rd, then back to 2nd, then back to 3rd, etc,etc. A lot of jerking movements,and the fastest i've gone is roughly 40mph under these conditions on about a 2 mile straightaway.
I don't know how else to explain it. Any ideas? I will be happy to answer any questions.
Thanks.
Dealer was evasive on the 'what happens when it happens again' question. Consensus was it wouldn't be covered a second time... So much for my plans to keep this car for another 8-10 years. Not of course that it will make it, as every problem I've had (other than this one) has been corrosion related and that's not likely to stop anytime soon.
I have to say, after having both headlights replaced, the rear subframe replaced and now the V6 engine and precats on order....Nissan will have spent over $10K fixing this thing...so unlike most here I still have a modicum of faith in the brand. Of course, I have to have my rear brakes replaces every 18 months because of corrosion related crap...oh, and the ABS sensor is moved out of alignment when the rear bearing caps corrode...$500 whammy which if you don't address quickly burns out your $3000 ABS unit due to frequent and excessive engagement.
That said I'm scared silly that this will be an ongoing issue, one that will seriously erode the trade-in values unless I act quickly. I also have read that the stupid engine mounts can fry your ECM....who would've thought? What's next...opening doors will cause your gas tank to explode?!?
I'm still debating whether to stick it out or bail, but to anyone fence sitting on this issue, I'd suggest you run, not walk, away from these engines (QR25 and QR35's) which unfortunately means most of Nissan's lineup.
Fred.
PS I suspect it all started with a badly setup mixture in the ECM...so I'm going to push for an ECM reprogram too. No other reason for those cats to self-destruct, and there is a strong unburnt fuel smell when starting the car on cold days, and has been for years.
link title
We took it for a second opinion they said that it had something to do with one of the pistons miss firing. This place also informed us that they are pretty sure,there was some sort of a recall on either the engine or someething to do with the engine with the Altima and that we should definetely go back to Nissan.
I will take the car to the dealership on Monday and will keep u all updated . I really hope there is a recall..........or else...........I 'm contacting NISSAN US for sure. Cars DO NOT NEED AN ENGINE REPLACEMENT IN 61/2 YEARS.
I think there's a reason why most manufacturers only offer 5 years warranty on the powertrain. I know most engines can be last longer than 5-6 years but the chance that something will be broke down is higher after 5 years.
I have a brand new V6 engine, 2 x new pre-cats and 2 x new oxygen sensors installed in my 7yr old car with only 45kmi on it ALL courtesy of Nissan. I have no idea of the final cost (~$6K), but the page of gaskets required must've run $500 or more alone... Acceleration rattle has *finally* gone away! Presumably so too the mysteriously disappearing oil problem... It took them two days to do.
(BTW the car passed it's emissions test not 3 months earlier with flying colours, and no lights, no SES, no oil, ever came on)
Dealership swears up and down that the new parts have improved formulations and won't suffer the same breakdown as the original parts. ECM was not reprogrammed. I'm going to keep the car, as I still like driving it a lot, and even if it does melt down in another 7 years...I'll probably have got my money's worth. That said, I'm so glad I hadn't packed the miles on it like I used to, or I would've blown the 8yr/130km warranty and be stuck with the mother of all repair bills (like so many on this site)...and be in a bit of a quandary, as in to how to dispose of the car-cass least recklessly...
Thank you Nissan for standing by your product (well, to a point).
One week after having the light reset at the dealership and the transmission fluid replaced the SES light came on again. This time the code is p0302 (cylinder 2 misfire). I am not sure what to do at this point because the dealership told me that if the light were to come back on I would have to replace the solenoid which would cost about $600-$700. Although, I am hesitant because the error code is now something else.
After reading several post from others with the similar dilemma I am not sure what to do. I feel like this SES light coming on is a chain reaction to many other problems and will only turn out to be money spent on a never ending problem. If someone could please give me some advice, it would be greatly appreciated. I am a girl and feel that every time I go to the Nissan dealership I am hustled and end up paying hundreds of dollars for minor problems all the while the mechanic is ignoring the major problem.
First, it is good that you are able to get the DTC's read for you, probably at an autoparts store or friend. Every person that drives a modern car should have or have acess to a DTC reader, one that can read the codes and clear the codes, at the minimum. There are better code Scanners that do more functions for more money, but those Scanners are for people who are more mechanical and work on their cars. I think owning a good Scanner is a very wise investment, I use mine for all my cars, and sometimes my friends cars. Seach for them with Google. So rule one is to be able to read the Codes and be able to clear the codes (turn off the SES light).
Second, interpreting codes and repairing the problem can be done by places other than just the dealer. It would not hurt to have someone else look at the car and tell you what is wrong, what needs to be fixed and how much it will cost. A lot of places will take a look at it at no cost, so look around and find a good mechanic shop, and shop the market and the prices. If the car seems to be running ok with no problem, and the code is read and it does not seem to be a critical problem or a life safety problem, then clear the code to turn off the SES light, and see if the SES light returns. If it does, then investigate the problem further. If you have a real transmission problem or a real engine problem , you will be able to FEEL it or HEAR it, So rule two is to shop around.
Third, I am not sure why the transmission error code apppeared and then went away. The best thing to do with this is to monitor the situation and see if it comes back, instead of automatically throwing money at it. In fact, just because the SES light comes on, does not mean you have to spend money on it. So rule three is don't spend money on the car just because the SES light came on, check it out and research it first. Google the Code number and find out all about it, and then ask about it on here.
Fourth, the PO302 code is cylinder 2 misfire, have you noticed and missing or engine not seem to run right, sluggish, hesitation, stalling, hard starting or anything like that? Reset and clear the code and see if it comes back. This could be caused by several things. If it comes back, you may have to have a mechanic do some general test to find out the general health of the engine and try to pinpoint the problem. Some test may include a cylinder compression test, a vaccum test, a cylinder leakdown test, ignition test, fuel injector test, sensors test, wiring test, etc. After researching the problem, ask back here if you need to.
So in general, if the car seems to be running ok with no problem, and the code is read and it does not seem to be a critical problem or a life safety problem, then clear the code to turn off the SES light, and see if the SES light returns. If it does, then investigate the problem further. If you have a real transmission problem or a real engine problem , you will be able to FEEL it or HEAR it,
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
One dealer ship says we need to replace the engine and another says our cylinder is misfiring. We also went back to the dealership we bought the car from, to check all the recalls and supposedly we've got everythig done and the problem we are having has nothing to do with the recalls. THe dealership, also suggested that we should call the MANUFACTURER, NISSAN USA and explain the problem to them and if they get enough complaints they may HAVE to do something. SO I WOULD SUGGEST, TO EVERYONE HERE ON THIS SITE TO CALL NISSAN @ 1-800-NIS-SAN1 AND COMPLAIN ABOUT THE PROBLEM WE ARE ALL HAVING. I KNOW, I'M GOING TO CALL THEM FIRST THING TOMORROW MORNING.
I think it's rediculous that I have to pretty much get rid of this car and buy a new one, only after 61/2 yrs. I'm not giving up on this easily.
Reading everyone's experiences here enssures me that there is obviously a manufactures defect in this model.
By the way you should not feel hastled you because you are a girl. I am a girl , I understand how you feel. At this time, I can only suggest that you also make that one phone call to Nissan and lets see what happens. I'm ready to make sure that Nissan has a good explanation for this or they will never hear the end of it.
BEWARE.
After the engine was replaced, I suddenly needed a new $800 MAF (mass airflow sensor) to cure stumbling problems on accelerations and a lot of unburnt gas smell on cold startups. I actually think the failed MAF was the root cause of all of this, as the excess unburnt fuel would be dealt with primarly by the pre-cats which would lead to premature breakdown (dealership told me the method of failure of the catalytic material is micro-detonations in the honeycomb structure...well blobs of fuel spraying out with hot exhaust gases ought to qualify).
My biggest beef is that no warning light ever came on, not for the low oil, not for the failed MAF and O2 sensors, not for the failed pre-cats.
As I stated in my post (Nov 23?) above I did get full satisfaction in terms of an engine replacment...though I only had 45kmi on it.
Again, thanks
Good Luck
E.D. in Sunny Florida
I have some conflicting information on my particular Altima, so I thought I would request advice. My 2002 2.5 had the SES light on a couple of months ago, so I took it to my local dealer and it was just a gas cap/tank issue (replaced the cap, and repainted inside the tank door.) They suggested not trying to top-up on fillups (stop when the nozzle first stops) to avoid reoccurrence.
This month, my SES light came on again. Not worried, it went away after a fill up. A week later, it was on again and wouldn't go off. I took it to the dealership after another week (this last Friday), and was shocked to hear that the failure was P0420, that the precat was breaking apart/missing, the oil was low, the new noise I was hearing was the timing chain, and the engine would have to be replaced!!! With a couple of extra things like a new clutch, estimated cost for engine assembly, etc. $5900 CDN plus tax. So, I spent all weekend doing research on the problem, expecting that I would have to scrape around to get another used car. I'm trying to move overseas sometime this year - this would really hurt because I will want to get rid of it just before I go in 6-8 months and need it for work until then. I paid off the car a few years ago and have had it serviced regularly at Nissan.
They did regular service, and the noise I had heard was gone. IMO, it was likely the low oil and the engine complaining. I took the car in today to a local mechanic, and gave them the story. They would perform a diagnostic for a second opinion, and could probably find me a new engine somewhat cheaper than the dealer (though still not super cheap). Their results - they said the cat was plugged, but they didn't think it blew into the engine! Spark plugs reasonably clean. Compression tests were ok (150's on all), and they noticed no noises from the timing chain or otherwise. No blue in the exhaust. Their suggestion was to replace the cat and flush the engine to clean out any residue.
:confuse: Any suggestions on which way to go?
I'll post again after I see how it goes.
Here is what I have to say for you, your option #2 is probably the best thing for you to do at this time, but may not be the cheapest though. I don't know what State you live in and what the emission testing requirements are required there, but if allowable, you can take off the Precat and hollow it out, instead of buying a new one. That could save you hundreds of dollars, and you could do it yourself, even without having to remove it from the car. Before you start, run the engine and check to see if you have good exhaust flow out the tailpipes, if not you might have a restriction in the 2nd Cat to check for. Let the car cool down, then jack up the car safely on sturdy safety stands, and get under the car and separate the exhaust pipe from the bottom of the Precat, remove both of the oxygen sensors so that they won't get damaged (buy a special oxygen sensor socket for this), then through the bottom opening of the Precat, you can use some metal rods or screwdrivers to break the material inside the Precat apart and let the materal fall out the bottom opening. You might need to fabricate a metal wire hook to pull some parts out, like parts of the metal screens, and you can start the engine for 2 seconds to blow out loose pieces. Once it is hollowed out, reinstall the upper oxygen sensor, and you would have to put the $5 O2 cheater on the 2nd oxygen sensor to keep the SES light from coming on. Also, while the exhaust pipe is loose, it is a good time to check the second Cat that is under the car before the muffler to be sure that it is not restricted. In my case, the stuff from inside the Precat all came loose, blew down the exhaust pipe and plugged up the second CAT. That is why I had to hollow out both the Precat and the 2nd Cat.
See message #256, that I have copied for you below.
#265 of 356 Re: How do you avoid this? [lnesomdove] by electricdesign Apr 27, 2008 (7:58 am)
Replying to: lnesomdove (Apr 25, 2008 5:46 am)
"what do you do to insure that yours isn't one of those 5% if you choose to keep this car? "
First, you have to be sure that the engine is not too far damaged, and using too much oil. Once it is using more than a quart per 1000 miles, it is probably too late. My daughters 2002 Altima was using about 1 quart in 1500 miles when I worked on it in Decenber 2007. The first Cat blew itself clean out and the second Cat was plugged up. Now it is running fine with both Cats hollowed out and a new head gasket. I estimate that it is now using 1 quart of oil in about 2500 to 3000 miles. We don't have an emissions inspection here in Florida, so we can run it that way. To keep the "Sevice Engine Soon" light from staying on, I put the "$5 02 Cheater", mentioned in previous posts, on the second oxygen sensor, and it works fine, keeps the light off. That's the way to keep the engine running fine, if yours is not too far gone.
If the engine is too far gone & using too much oil, nothing will fix it but a new engine.
If you start to get the problem and the engine is not too far gone, and you live in an emissions testing state, you would need to put on a new Precat/Exhaust manifold at the very first sign of the Cat going bad, before the engine is damaged. A new Cat will NOT fix a damaged engine.
Owners and buyers Beware, Check that CAT at every service and check the oil level often, at least once a week. This is a known problem, so look out for it!
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
I have an '05 Altima S, w/ I4 engine and 64K miles, with no know problems mentioned thru these posts YET, except cold heat air temp at idle {which I will address w/ burping technique in service bulletin see NTB02-047b (2002-2003 Altima: Poor Heater Performance) and possible thermostat replacement's }.
My state presently has no emissions testing done and I wish to gutt the precat and leave the 2nd -main cat converter in place. Needless to say, neither Nissan dealers, nor most repair shops will do this work for me. I will be trying to find some competent young neighborhood shadetree mechanic to help me with this extra-legal workaround. My question relates to the removal of Pre-CAT, and resolution of the required difference between the voltages of the upstream and downstream O2 sensors. Several sources and discussion groups talk of an aftermarket replacement/ and modified O2 sensor, cheater plug to augment the difference, lengthened wiring to aid in the voltage diff., etc..This is the same motor/pre-cat setup as the Nissan Sentra, and here is a link to a discussion in one of their forums elsewhere on the web regarding cheaters, and outright removal with an aftermarket header replacement, albeit the header solution is more work:
http://www.b15sentra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=135241
Does anyone know of a specific source/ supplier of these O2 sensor parts and the custom tool for removal that electric design used in his engine work (so laboriously photographed and posted on Snapfish.
Thanks for any help,
aquatect1951.
The O2 sensor socket is available at any auto parts store, it is a thick deep socket with a long slot cut lengthwise. The socket slips over the O2 sensor and the wires slide up the slot as the socket slides onto the O2 sensor. The wires stay connected to the O2 sensor and are not damaged as you loosen the sensor. Work carefully, as the sensors can sometimes be very tight to break loose.
The O2 cheater is very cheap, $5 or less. Buy two of the correct size spark plug non foulers, drill one of them out with a 1/2 inch drill bit, screw them together, put them in the O2 sensor hole and then screw in the sensor. It is simple and it worked for me. I have not got the bad cat code since then (over a year now). Below I have attached the link to the site that gives complete instructions:
http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-how-tos-installations/208195-5-o2-cheater-non-f- - ouler-how.html
Note: The only physical difference that the O2 cheater makes is that the O2 sensor sticks out about an inch and a half farther.
Good luck
E.D. in Sunny Florida
I have read on this that there are so many people out there that have had this same problem, with Nissan rarely paying for this misfortune. My car has about 85,000 miles on it, all highway, so aren't engines supposed to last well over that mileage?? Why hasn't Nissan done anything concerning this year and model car that seems to have a recurring problem?
My advise to anyone thinking about buying an altima, DON'T. they are nothing but hassle and only prove to not last. Im still paying off my car.I owe 9000, its only worth 6500 right now, and i have to put 5000 into it for a new engine. somehow, that to me doesn't seem right.
After reading the comments here, I don't think I should have to pay anything, but I guess $500 is better than other people have made out.
I have 130 miles round trip commute to work. Therefore, I have put a lot of miles on my car. I have 66,000 miles when I drove it to the dealership. The dealership said to call Nissan1. The vehicle was over warranty and I do not have extended warranty.
I called Nissan1, and they basically said no to my case. No assistance. It's my responsiblity. I'm totally upset over this poor service and quality of this product. I've had two Nissans prior to 2002 and the transmissions lasted over 200,000 miles.
I returned to the dealership and spoke with the Service Manager. My dissatisfaction on how this problem is being handled. He listened and I'm waiting for a response.
1) What's wrong with Nissan?
2) They do not make quality products anymore - what can be done to change this type of business practices?
3) Should they not take responsiblity for their poor product?
1) What's wrong with Nissan?
They don't care about their products or customers after the warranty expires - therefore don't buy their products.
2) They do not make quality products anymore - what can be done to change this type of business practices?
They don't care about their products or customers after the warranty expires - therefore don't buy their products.
3) Should they not take responsiblity for their poor product?
They don't care about their products or customers after the warranty expires - therefore don't buy their products.
Spread the word.
:sick:
The most expensive Altima I can find has an MSRP of $25000 with at least $1500 in rebate money, so you could buy this car in about 3 years with the payments you are going to make just leasing it and turning it back in while owning nothing!!