Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I have just relocated and am looking for a job myself, no money. This is not good.
Once that is under control, look to see what the starting problem is. Fixing the coolant leak may help fix the starting problem. The causes for the hard starting or no start could be many different reasons.
Good luck, E.D.
I appreciate your concern. As I mentioned in #475, before I left New Jersey for N. Carolina, my mechanic drilled the precat and put sealer in. In a nutshell, this is what has happened since:
-Drove 500 miles to n Carolina, started car next day no problem, 2 hours later very hard start.
-Next day: Start car no problem, start car 2 hours later, very hard start(giving gas to boost rpms to start)
-Next day very hard start, Bleed radiator lines, car starts fine.
-For 2 days car starts fine. Turned off and on maybe 15-20 times running errands.
-Next day car won't start.
Checked spark plugs yesterday. 1 & 4 wet and smell like gas (from trying to start it and giving the car gas, I guess) but they spark and so does 3. No spark on 2. 2&3 dry with no smell.
I am changing the spark plugs today, tho I very much doubt that will help. That is the limit of what I can do with my automotive knowledge and available tools(not sure what I have less of). If it won't turn over, I'll have to have it towed to a shop and hope for the best. I have 3 more payments on it, so can't even have it hauled away cuz I have no title.
I am at my wit's end.
Wow, $100 for a diagnostic, hate to see you spend that much, but may be worth it if they give you valuable information.
This all goes back to the Head Gasket problem and if you have the pre-cat problem or not. Even with the sealer in the radiator, the Head Gasket will still leak small amounts of coolant into the cylinders from time to time, that is why you need to daily be checking all the fluid levels. Please update on how much coolant that you have to add per day or week, and how much engine oil you have to add per day, week, or month, this will be indications of what is happening with the head gasket leak and if there are any problems with the cylinders. That would be helpful diagnostic information.
To save your engine for as long as you can, make sure that the engine never runs hot or overheats & check and keep all fluid levels filled up.
Good Luck, E.D.
I think you will need new engine because you let the head gasket leak for such long period of time.
Other immediate issues...the hard starting - The Altimas are known to sometimes have problems with the sensors and the MASS Airflow Sensor. Make sure that the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Camshaft Position Sensor have the recalls done on them up to date and that they are working correctly. Check the MAF sensor to be sure it is clean and working properly. All of these things have been discussed in these forums, go back and read the past messeges, use the "search" feature to find what you want to read about using keywords such as sensor, etc.
And finally, yes, I know about "keeping the proverbial fingers crossed" as I do the same every day, because my daughter is still driving her 2002 Nissan Altima 2.5S, and it scares me to death, especially now that I have been out of work for almost five months and have NO money to fix it. I say RATS of this darn Depression! I keep asking her the same questions almost every day, Did you check the oil today? Did you have to add any oil today? How much? Did you check the coolant today? Did you have to add any coolant today? How much? Yes, I certainly keep my fingers crossed, all the time!
Again, Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
Don't waste your money and time to fix that Altima. I already threw more than $2000 to fix it in less than 1 year since 66k miles. (diagnostics, head gasket, CPS, struts, catalytic converter, engine mounts ). Exclude the $1000 maintenance like new brake rotors+pads at 80k miles, transmission+brake+ radiator fluid flush, inner+outer tie rod +alignment, new alternator (bad bearing) . I hate it's loud tapping noise during winter and lean pinging sound under light throttle + oil consumption.
I keep driving it with DIY maintenance for 2-3 more years.
I am looking for a mechanics that can re-program the ECU to fix the lean detonation issue. I hate to go to STEALERSHIP (dealership) with $95 per diagnostic.
1. Remove the glove box assembly.
2. Remove the console side finisher (RH).
3. Disengage the filter cover tab to remove the filter cover.
4. Remove the in-cabin microfilter from the blower unit by using the pull tab on the bottom of the filter.
In fact, Nissan covers the cost based on Vin and since my car had been updated on the first engine, the $300 repair was not covered.
One more reason that there are no Nissans in my future. :lemon:
Check Engine Soon - what a surprise. I return, to oil shop- and check what is the problem : the problem is po 335 and po 725- and the technicians tell me , you
need to change crankshaft sensor and Cam sensor, and speed-engine sensor.
they give me estimate - both for 370 $, because I have a limited warranty on my nissan- Altima 2005 I went to the dealer ship North Charleston Nissan- and I want to check what is the problem. They explain for check the car - I need to pay 100$ , just for checking !!!! what a surprise , and because I complain - that I have a warranty - they say we need to check- I explain that I already check what is the problem , because i dont want to pay money for nothing.
after I tell them what is the problem , they tell me that sensor- is not under the
warranty, WHAT a Surprise!!!
I decline this bla- bla - bla ...
I make my research !! and gees what happen, if You do not want to loose
your money, just search in the web- solution of the problem.
what I make: Went to Autozone- and check what is the price
for CAM AND CRANK shaft sensors- they are cheep compare with
NISSAN dealer ship !!!! surprise a? not be
28.00 $ EACH
YOU need 2 - and they are the same !!!
After a small research , i make decision me AND my friend- to change .
simple and not so easy-
1one is located on very easy place: thank to
http://dentnshell.com/Projects/2005Altima/CamkPosition.html
2one is problem!!!
http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Nissan-Altima-Camshaft-Crankshaft-Sensors/
I replaced both with my friend , BUT I dont understand:
WHY COMPANY LIKE NISSAN - HAVE this problem from 2003 year,
and they dont CARE , for nothing , I am not surprise ,
I thank to my friend - that hepl so much !!!!
we spend more than 500 $- because we make at home
Nissan Altima 2005 :shades:
If someone have question about this problem:
just simple write me a letter .
I am going to be happy to help everyone , with this problem.
After i change both sensor , I talk with Expert in engine : who explain to me
that I need to go to some Autozone , that need to clear light on dashboard,
I voala - that is resolve the problem .
THANK TO MY FRIEND NICK!!!!
AND thank to other people , with post how they resolve this problem
AND on the END- i am going to call NISSAN - claim Afar .
i care for THEIR CAR< this is unbelievable.!!!!!!!!
My Story: In 2008 I purchased a used 2003 Nissan Altima from my father. It had about 100K miles on it, and he told me to watch the oil because it was burning out. I checked the oil every week or two since then. Every time I took it in for an oil change, I would ask about the burning oil, and I was constantly told, that it was not uncommon for a car with over 100K to burn more oil.
Just last month, my check engine light came on, and I had the Cam Sensor replaced. Three weeks later, the check engine light came on again and this time the car would not start. I had it towed, replaced the battery and Crank Sensor was replaced. Two weeks later the check engine light appeared again, and I took it back to the same shop. This time the computer read that the Catalytic Converter needed to be replaced. I told the mechanic that I was traveling from Atlanta to Baltimore for Thanksgiving, and asked if the car was ok without changing out the Catalytic Converter. He said it was fine, it just wouldn't pass emmissions.
We drove up to Baltimore and had to put oil in twice on the ride up. On the ride home, I put oil in when we left, and I started hearing funny sounds after 300 miles. I put more oil in, but the sound got worse. As I was pulling off the exit in Greeneville, South Carolina the engine ceased (2:30 am). I had the car towed the following day to te Nissan Dealership just off the I-85 Exit in Greenville. I was informed by the mechanic there, that the Piston Rod blew and went through the oil pan. He said this occurred because of oil burning through the Catalytic Converter. He mentioned that this was a common problem of 2002 aand 2003 Altima's and that this was bound to eventually happen. That there was nothing I could have done to prevent this. The solution he offered me was to install a new engine at a cost of approximately $5,500.
Do I have any recourse with Nissan? The mechanic in Atlanta? Do you have suggestions? The only thing I have found is purchasing a used engine from a junk yard, and having someone install it for me. My problem is that I still owe $2000 on the car. Please advise
Welcome to the Forum. This is a VERY unfortunate situation, but unfortunately most people are not very knowledgeable about cars. This topic is a matter of controversy, as it is all a matter of priorities. If having reliable transportation is important to you, and ESPECIALLY if you don't have a lot of money, it is best to learn as much about automoblies as you possibly can. These days, it is much easier to research automobiles with the internet and all these forums, not like 40 or 50 years ago having to dig through huge manuals and libraries, and not having the advantage to hear input from consumers who actually drive the car you are studying.
Your problem, What to do? Too late now, Too old, Too many miles, chaulk it up to experience, and please don't make the same mistake again. Your only options at this point is to either spring for putting the used engine in the car, or else scrap the car. The car is only worth about 5 grand at the most, so it may be more economically feasible to junk the car. No sense to throw good money after bad, or to spend more on the car than what it is worth. Or maybe sell it back to your Dad, or he might forgive the $2000 debt on the car! I don't think you can hold the Atlanta mechanic to blame (obviously not a dealership), they work on lots of different cars, and don't know everything about every car. He evidently was not aware of the Cat Converter problem with the Altima. Maybe he can cut his price in half, since he gave you bad advice, but it is hard to prove that he caused your engine to blow. Too many variables there. You did not mention, but I assume you have the 2.5L 4 cylinder engine in your car.
Remember, your best defense is a good offense, so be on the offense and research everything you can about a car BEFORE you buy it.
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
P.S. My daughters 2002 Nissan Altima 2.5s has 126,000 miles and running ok, only burning a small amount of oil, with both cats cleaned out. It needs to keep running well up to 200,000 miles. I wonder if it might make it? It's quite a stretch for that car. Time will tell, it always does.
2004 Nissan Sentra w/2.5L motor, driveability issue at roughly 90k miles. Owner of the vehicle said he was just driving down the road at a 35mph cruise when the engine started shaking (misfiring) and the check engine light came on. Reader came up with a generic cylinder misfire code, pulled plugs to find the #4 cylinder had a devastated plug.
The plug looked like it had been shot blasted. The electrode was pressed against the center conductor (read:no spark) and it looked like it had been beat on. The plugs had been replaced once before, customer says about a year ago, and never had any problems. Inspected the cylinder through the boroscope located a small lump of metal about the size of a pencil eraser. The cylinder was far dirtier than the other cylinders as well, and the face of the piston was pitted (once again as if shot blasted).
New plugs installed, all cylinders inspected. #1 is dirty too, but no signs of erroneous metal. Vehicle starts and runs great (although with the typical Nissan 2.5L tick). Cleaned induction system in an effort to tidy up the cylinders and went for a test drive. Returning from the test drive, the engine starts shaking again w/a MIL.
Plug #4 is beat up again. Put a mirror on the boroscope and begin inspecting every inch of the cylinder wall. Found the head coming apart and the head/block juncture. What in the world causes this? Micro-fractures in the metal casting? Improper machining at the factory?
I read the forums and see the head problems typical to this motor. Seems to be not too uncommon? Is this a pre-cat induced head failure I'm dealing with or something new? I know the fix: Junk/trade it or replace the motor. Was this a design flaw or a manufacturing flaw?
There are four power valves, one in each intake tube. Each power valve is held to the positioning shaft with 2 screws, for a total of 8 screws. The problem is that the screws come loose, and when they get loose enough, they fall out and get sucked into the engine, and bounce around inside the engine cylinder, destroying the piston, head and spark plug. The smashed spark plug is a dead giveaway for this problem. The Solution is to remove the upper intake manifold, Remove and clean the screws and threads and apply locktight sealer to the threads and put in new screws. Buy the new updated screws to fix this problem. Replace the upper intake manifold and you are done, as long as the head and piston were not permanently damaged.
Again, this is a common and well known problem with these engines. My opinion is that this is an engineering and manufacturing flaw (The Screws should have been engineered to stay in place & the Screws should have been securely tightened in manufacturing to stay in place).
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
...unless you bought the extended warranty, I think the warranty only covers the first 60k miles for the engine.
Thanks.
Onuchukwu Chuma.
To verify, the engine runs rough and stalls when you start the engine, How long does it take to run smooth again, 30 to 45 seconds? Taka a quick Smell near the exhaust to see if there is any smell of anti-freeze, then breath fresh air to clear your lungs.
Once the engine is warmed up, and you restart it, Does it start and run smooth?
If it makes white smoke and the engine runs rough for about 30 to 45 seconds on a cold start, check to see if antifreeze is leaking into one of your cylinders. If so, it could be a leaking head gasket. See previous posts about this.
E.D. in Sunny Florida
I have an 04 Nissan and am having a problem with no acceleration or rather decreased acceleration. I step on the gas pedal and then it seems as if the engine is groaning and I have to press the gas pedal hard. Even after pressing the gas pedal,the engine struggles to accelerate and it appears as though it is towing a heavy load. I checked the revs and they are revving to a maximum of 3500 only and I can reach speeds of 55-60mph but it appears obvious that the engine is straining hard.
I hope it is not the cat converter ?? Also,I do not have any CEL/SES light or any other codes.. I checked the tire pressure in all 4 tires. Please advise.
Thanks - you folks were very helpful when I had asked a question about Slip and TCS off lights that I had about 3 months ago and your diagnosis was pretty much on the ball - a camshaft sensor problem.
Hope I dont have any more problems with my Nissan ! And hoping that this problem is not serious !
Good luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
with the same miles on it and the engine is alot louder in cold weather until it warms up. In response to #509.
The mechanic brought out the fuel pump which was filled with dirt and we cleaned it up.Now it still stalls but a bit better. He said I need to change the Nozzle can it be the problem? Is it adviceable to use fuel injector cleaner and pour it into the tank? The milage is 91,000miles and no problems so far.I bought it as second hand in nigeria 2years ago at 73,000 miles.
Thanks, I am grateful, Chuma.
Use one of the following:
Head Gasket:
FEL-PRO Part # 26261PT {PermaTorqueMLS™} Head Gasket only $26.79.
DOHC engine;
Head bolts not incl.; Head bolt replacement recommended - they run about another $90.
or
Complete upper gasket set:
ROCK PRODUCTS Part # HGS638 {Upper Gaskets Set}
DOHC - $81.79, Plus you need to buy new head bolts.
Does it make any difference what brand of piston rings are used?
its shaken , I don't understand why . My Nissan Altima is 2005, 2.5 S
and have 77 000 miles. Can someone help me, because dealership
they don't understand , they make test drive and say it's perfect, but is not.
Is it something on Transmission or suspension? :confuse:
After coming home, my husband was able to get to it and start it up just fine with no issue. Prior to this, the "check engine light" had never come on.
He hooked up a code thing to it which he owns and no codes came up. We took to the internet to do some research and found that in Nov. 2007 over 653 thousand Altimas were recalled due to the crankshaft sensor overheating causing a brief interruption in the signal output. This could lead to the engine to quit running while being driven at low speeds.
Needless to say, I took the car into our dealership this morning and got the call back that the ECM could not be reprogrammed (which was the remedy) because they were getting codes on the CAM sensor and crank sensor. They told me in order to correct the recall issue, I would need to pay $470 for the replacement of both these sensors.
This is where I am looking for advice. I argued with them that the recall was precipitated by the crankshaft sensor overheating and causing the interruption. I personally do not feel we should have to pay for the replacement of this sensor because it was at the root of the problem. Now, the CAM sensor, I know nothing about (and my husband is at work), but the little I do know about cars tells me they all work together in the function of the engine continuing to run.
At this point, I have contaced Nissan Corporation and filed a complaint. I am not trying to get free repairs, and am willing to pay for the CAM sensor since it was not mentioned in the recall, but the crank sensor I am arguing over. If they cannot get to the ECM reprogramming without getting past having to replace the crank sensor, should we rightfully have to pay for that since it overheated causing the breakdown??
I have an 06 Altima 2.5 that I bought as a program car from Enterprise, with 15K on it. It now has 76K on it, and after reading all the posts about these things eating their own cats, I am concerned about mine.
So far it's been flawless, and with freeway driving it can return 33MPG
Its always garaged, and I live in CA so it never really sees any extreme cold temps, but it does get up to 100 in the summer here on the desert. I drive a ton of freeway miles.
Anyway, I Googled 06 Altimas for sale, and couldn't find a single one with more than 90K on it, and I'm wondering if these things can even MAKE IT to 90K
I would love to hear from any Altima 2.5'ers with GOOD stories, like how their Altima now has 250K on it with no problems. Does such a car exist ? Or are all Altimas doomed to eat their own cats?
Curiously
John from CA :surprise: