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Comments
The connector pin-end of the wires are simply inserted into the rear of the connector body. When fully seated they lock themselves into the shell.
You will notice that the connector in the kit has a thin rubber membrane seal that wasn't on the original connector. This is a moisture shield to prevent premature corrosion of the wires at the terminal crimp. Believe it or not but moisture from inside the cab contributes corrosion of the pins.
As to the blower being an issue, I'm not sure. I've worked on two of these and other people suggested that the blower motor was drawing too much current, thus taking out the blower resistor and/or overheating the wires. Maybe, but after being involved with two motor replacements I am convinced that the old motors were not the problem.
Best regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
Unfortunately, the problem is the wires that carry current to the motor when in the maximum fan speed position. Basically when the blower is at its highest speed, there is no resistance inserted into the circuit. Switched resistance is used to reduce current flow for the slower fan speeds.
The wire that comes from the motor (pin 2) and the ground wire for the fan circuit (pin 1) are both 12 gauge in the harness. When using the aforementioned repair kit the largest gauge wire supplied are five orange 14 gauge wires. This wire will not be enough to carry the current when the blower is in the highest output position.
I've been using butt connectors to make this repair instead of the splices supplied with the kit. The Dodge techs are telling me that in addition to using the brass crimps in the kit, the wires should be soldered to ensure a absolute connection, and the service manual does indicate that this is the correct method of repair.
I would argue that an adequately rated butt connector will be sufficient, however because of the design of these connectors it is not uncommon to end up with a minute amount of insertion loss due to resistance unless the butt connector connection is perfect. At lower currents it won't be a problem, but at 15 amperes .1 ohms of inserted resistance could generate some heat especially when the fan is operated in the high position for long periods.
Since corrosion due to moisture seems to be the contributing factor, soldering these splices does make sense. However, I'm still firmly convinced that a short length of 14 gauge wire used in the high output circuit is still going to cause a problem long term.
I'm going to contact the Tech Line in the next few days to discuss this issue some more.
Regards,
Dusty
I am by no means a car or truck person meaning I am not knowledgeable about anything if something goes wrong. However, about two months ago I was driving down the road and the A/C went out. I had no idea what the problem was and I was hoping it was not the compressor. Long story short, it ended up being the fuse that controlled the horn and the A/C clutch. The fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and it also needed a freon charge. They put dye in it just in case, but the A/C is working great again. I am fairly certain this helps none of you, but just sharing.
Take care.
Thanks in advance.
Under most failure-modes, the highest fanspeed setting still works when the blower-resistor burns out. This is because the blower-resistor is NOT USED when the fan is on "high" speed.
92804? I am printing out all these forum discussions to take to independant shops so they don't just start tearing it up but have some specifics to look for.
thanks!
mikeeeeeeeeeee
Regards,
Dusty
mike
Karl
You did not say which engine you have... if it is the 4.7L Semi-Hemi, make CERTAIN you used the proper bypass thermostat. The wrong one may fit but will not work correctly.
Also, you may wish to do a leakdown test to make sure the cooling system is not leaking internally. (inside the enigne) Are you noticing any antifreeze loss?
Also, dont forget that the waterpump on the 4.7L Semi-Hemi spins the OPPOSITE way of other engines... the routing of the belt is important! (it is possible to route belt wrong way so waterpump spins backwards)
Do not forget that the 4.7L semi-hemi uses a BYPASS cooling system. This is noted by the fact that the thermostat is mounted LOW on the engine (not at the top of it) This type of cooling system ALWAYS flows coolant thru the engine past the thermostat. One end of the thermostat 'senses' the temparture of this engine flow and the other end of it 'throttles' the flow of coolant out of the radiator and precesicely mixes it into the hot engine coolant. This is why using a 'normal' thermostat will really mess up the cooling system because it does not have the ability to perform this function.
Here are a couple of other things to think about;
Does the heater put out heat?
Did you "burp" the air out of the cooling system using the special valve at the high point of the cooling system? (above power-steering resivour on radiator plumbing)
BTW (for future reference): It is worldwide standard to speak of "right" and "left" side of a vehicle based on the point of view from sitting in the drivers seat. (not standing in front of it facing it)
For example: The right headlight is the one on the PASSENGERS side.
I wanted to let you know that through your advice my truck is now back on the road. I did the burp thing as you advised, put an identical thermostat in truck to the one I took out, and all is well with my Dakota. Sir, I appreciate all the advice/help you gave in getting my truck fixed. THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH. I do have one more question. Why is the 4.7L called a semi hemi?
First of all, lets review why an engine would be called a "Hemi" in the first place. The term "Hemi" is slang for "Hemisperical". In a piston engine, the area from the top of the piston to the top of the cylinder head by the valve heads is known as the combustion chamber (this is actually just an area of air!). The combustion chamber on most overhead valved AUTOMOTIVE engines are either wedge shaped (think of a piece of pie) or hemispherical (think of tennis ball cut in half). The cylinder head design dictates the combustion area shape, so when someone says "hemi", it really only refers to the engine's cylinder head having a hemispherically shaped combustion chamber.
Hemi heads have the spark plug located at dead center of the combustion chamber, which makes for an extremely efficient & powerful fuel/air mixing & flame burn (actual igniting of the fuel/air). Hemi heads also have ideal valve placement to help the flow of air (intake & exhaust) through the cylinder head. In simple terms, the head design is VERY efficient, and allows an engine to make excellent power! On the downside, hemi heads themselves usually are quite heavy & large, and valvetrains can be somewhat complex (read: expensive).
The 4.7L engine is a "semi Hemi" because the head is almost a perfect sphere... except for a small bump.
Here are some links which further describe the 4.7L semi-hemi
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/47.html
http://www.thehemi.com/news.php?id=20020826-1
Thanx for the explanation on the engine. My wife said to tell you Thanx very much for the help in getting our truck fixed. Again, Thank You.
Regards,
Dusty
94 dakota 318 w/air 2wd
short story... blower motor worked only on high. then it didn't work at all. the way it happened i'm pretty sure it is the speed control. checked resistance on it but without documentation for the terminals....
help me please!!!!
I hope that helps.
Thanks
Thanks
There is no functionality at all. It does not blow any air out on any speed or setting even on AC.
I tried 4-5 times to pull the resistor out to engage the pins with no luck. I also wiggled the wires at the resistor on all fan speeds more time than I can count and still nothing.
When i hard wired the blower motor directly to the battery it turns just fine. :confuse:
This after we replace the resistor, & blower motor. ANd then took it in to a shop. SO it ended up being a $110 fuse.
At least now we know where the fuse is.
kpfegan
Good Luck.
thanks,
ken d