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Dodge Ram Climate Control

1235789

Comments

  • dokkiedokkie Member Posts: 8
    is it possible that the switch on the dash for temp control may be gone?? I have tested with a wire tester and i have power but only to 1 of the 3 wires that conect the switch and the blend door motor is this normal? i don't think the door is broke because i can set the temp with a pair of pliers from cold to warm to hot by turning the shaft that comes out towards the floor (with motor taken off). Also too like a good student i have tried everything u have suggested which includes unhooking the battery so any further advice will be followed and greatly appreciated.
  • heatertreaterheatertreater Member Posts: 50
    Dodge chose to implement a different control scheme for the HVAC system than other Chrysler products and Ford and Chevrolet, so I'll address all the different issues in general so that you can see the commonalities between the fails.

    Most systems use a "digital" control for vent selection and re-circ. By digital, I mean 1/0, open/closed, and this type of control is easily done with vacuum control. The vacuum switch is either on or off, and the door open or closed. This is fine for all the control functions other than the blend door. No one want the fine control of being able to put 90% of the air through the defrost and 10 through the floor and then decide to change it to 73% through the defrost and 27% through the floor, so it's either on or off with no fine control. The blend door is different because you want the control to be able to change the temperature from 73 degrees to 72 degrees and this is accomplished by moving the door slightly to change the mix of air going through the heater core.

    Vacuum control is problematic because you have to connect to the engine intake system, run little tubes to the various functions, use mechanical vacuum switches...and hope it doesn't develop leaks over time. Dodge avoided the vacuum "problems" by using electronic servo motor control for all the HVAC functions. The scheme connects a small DC motor to each of the door axles with control from the central computer. Each motor has two wires(not three) and the computer controls the direction of movement by reversing the voltage polarity on these two lines. The problem is that the computer has to know the point when the door is fully closed or fully open. It finds this point by driving the door to the extent of movement and recording a voltage signal from a stalled motor. Think of it like rolling up a hand cranked window. How do you know when the window is fully up or down. Easy, you can watch the window and stop just in time or turn til you feel resistance to movement and stop. Most of us have better sense than to torque the handle hard after it stops moving, but the computer system in the RAM does not have the same sense. It torques the door HARD every time it checks for the extents of movement and will eventually break the axle connector or the cheap plastic doors used on the RAM. This is the root cause of all the failures on the different control doors. The RAM is worse than the other automobiles we look at because of the decision to use servo motor control for all functions where most trucks use the motors for blend doors only. Once you break a door, the approved Dodge repair process is to disassemble the dash, disconnect the coolant and refrigerant lines, and remove the plenum box. It's fairly simple to open the box and replace the plastic doors with new plastic doors that will also fail over time. The doors are cheap, but the labor to disassemble the truck to get to the door will run in the $1k range. There are aftermarket solutions that avoid the high dollar work.

    So, let's follow the air through the system and look at the different doors that control the flow.
    1. Air enters the system through either an external vent or internal vent(re-circ). This is an either/or choice. If both the external and internal vents are open, air just flows into the external intake and out of the internal intake at highway speeds...like having a window rolled down all the time. The re-circ door is easy to see if you are having these kinds of symptoms by fully opening the glove box and looking to the upper right. With re-circ off, the door should be pressed against the inside of the grate covering the internal intake port and it should move when you turn re-circ on. If it isn't moving, it is broken and needs to be replaced.

    2. The air taken in in #1 now flows through the evaporator core. If the compressor is running, the air is cooled, if off the effect is neutral. The air is either cooled or ambient depending on the electronic signals to the clutch on the compressor. Air now hits the blend doors which can divert some or all of this air through the heater core. For max AC, you want the compressor on and no air through the heater core and for max heat you want the compressor off and all air diverted through the heater core. The system can change the on/off cycle of the compressor and position of the blend door to regulate temperature between max heat and max AC. This is the only component in the system that regulates the temperature of the air flow. If you are seeing problems with temperature control, the leading suspect is a broken blend door. Dodge also threw another curve into this by designing separate ducts for passenger and driver with some added complexity and two motors for the dual control systems. The plenum box is the same with either dual or single control and a differential between passenger and driver temperatures is a strong indication of blend door breakage.

    3. The conditioned air from the blend door now flows through the Mode 1 door. This door selects between dash vent and defrost/floor. If you have air flow through the dash vents all the time or no flow through the vents all the time, the Mode 1 door is broken. The door can physically break off and lodge in strange positions so it may not be completely black and white, but inability to control the dash vents is a broken Mode 1 door.

    4. The Mode 1 door will either push air out of the vents or allow the air flow to go to the Mode 2 door. This door chooses between the defrost vent and the floor vents. The system is designed to be a little "leaky", so choosing defrost will put most of the flow onto the windshield with a little leakage to the floor and the opposite situation when the door chooses to allow air to the floor. An inability to regulate between defrost and floor is an indication of a broken Mode 2 door.

    All four systems are equally susceptible to failure. Since the computer system is capable of detecting the movement extents of all four systems, it is also capable of throwing codes for a failure of any of the doors. The above describes the symptomatic analysis of the system, but the codes will also show any problems. The best diagnosis is to see a symptom that matches a code. You have to have the special Chrysler computer diagnostic system to read the codes. You may be able to find a shop that will do this for little cost, or maybe borrow a reader from one of the big parts chains. Note that the doors will "bend" before they break and the variation in calibration can throw codes even though the doors are not yet broken. The door may operate OK even with a code, but once you see a code, it's only a matter of time until it breaks.

    I know, I know, waaaaay too much information and complexity. Blame Dodge, not me. Unfortunately, theres more if you go looking for it. The system can be reliably repaired without extensive work and cost.
  • resqtechresqtech Member Posts: 1
    After reading alot of the reviews I apologize for repeating anything but each of the blower problems seem like they all have a different twist and I called to see how much the controller was for my truck and the dealer gave me a price of $153 that I would hate to spend if not needed. The problem I have with my '05 1500 is that the blower is stuck on the floor with just very little air coming out of the defrost when I choose 3 or 4 on the speed controller. I have no problem with the speed control, I can select any of the speeds. I also have no problem with the temperature control in the heater or the a/c mode, I can choose any selection for temperature. My truck is not dual temperature control and the air flow and temp seems to be the same on the drivers side floor as it is on the passenger side. Something that I did notice about a week before the blower got stuck on the floor was that one time when I started the truck with the controls set where they were when I turned the truck off, the indicator lights on the a/c button and the heated mirrors button flashed 4 times and then went out, those buttons also still work. It just won't blow anywhere other than the floor. Do you think is a controller problem or is it the mode or defroster door(s)? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • heatertreaterheatertreater Member Posts: 50
    The actuator motors are simple DC motors geared to turn the door slowly. It's actually rare for the motor to go bad. The more common issue is for the blend door axle to strip or break and the motor will lose it's calibration limits and be shut down by the computer. The motor is good, but the computer can't find a stop point and sends it into hibernation mode.

    Your symptoms are indicative of a Mode door failure and the system can be repaired for less than the dealer wants for a new motor that won't solve the problem anyway. You can search the internet for more information on diagnosing and solving the problem.
  • sk4910sk4910 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT quad cab with a 4.7L engine. Recently my air conditioner gets hot when the trick is idling. Its like the heater kicks on, the air gets hotter than whats outside and very humid to the point of fogging up my windows. The a/c works fine while the truck is moving. The freon level is good, and I changed the radiator fan clutch. There is also a pop sound that comes from the passenger side dash every time I start the truck. The passenger side a/c runs 80 degrees F while the driver side runs 20 degrees cooler. My truck is out of warranty so I was hoping someone has experience this same issue and could point me in the right direction.
  • heatertreaterheatertreater Member Posts: 50
    The popping sound is a clue that there might be problems with the air flow doors in your truck. It appears that you are getting good AC compressor operation and coolant flow, so "hot" and "cold" is getting into the passenger compartment. It sounds like the problem is how the temperature is being regulated by the air flow circuits.

    The RAM has four different electronically controlled doors in the system and most likely your problem will be traced to one or more of these systems failing. The four actuator motors are connected directly to the plastic control doors and it is a common failure for the plastic to break and lose control over the door. Once this happens, the computer system detects a fault in the system and you can get all kinds of strange behavior. Once a failure is detected, the computer shuts down the suspect actuator motor and goes into a state of confusion. The motors themselves are actually fairly robust, but the plastic doors are weak and break.

    Here are the four systems you need to check:
    1. Re-circ door - regulates between internal and external air into the plenum box.
    2. Blend door - diverts some or all of the air flow through the heater core to regulate temperature.
    3. Mode 1 door - controls air flow to dash vents or defrost/floor.
    4. Mode 2 door - when mode 1 diverts the air away from the dash vents, this regulates between 90% defrost and 90% floor.

    The diagnosis is fairly simple. You can read the codes with a special Chrysler computer diagnostic tool. You may be able to get one of the big parts stores to do this for free if they believe that they can sell you something, or go by the dealer and pay for a diagnostic report. The other way is to analyze the symptoms and examine the plenum box. You can easily figure out the problems once the center console and glove box have been pulled. Figure a couple of hours work.

    There are aftermarket solutions for the weak doors and full diagnostic procedures to trace and resolve the problems. The work is well within the skills of most shade tree mechanics and significantly cheaper than the dealer fix.
  • bndckrbndckr Member Posts: 1
    kcram: I have a 04 dodge 2500 with climate control with somewhat the same problem.

    At first I had a fan problem and had to bang on it to jump start it... finally bought a new fan and replaced it. Still works good.

    Then the A/C would work on driver's side and heat on passenger side. Driving across country in the middle of the summer it was a pain. Finally stopped in Lawrence, KS(?) and the tech told me that he it was the valve system and he worked them until they worked ok. They did and no charge.

    It's Apr 09 and it started doing it again. I would tear into it and do it myself, but I don't have a clue as to where these "valves" are or how to get into them.

    I live in San Diego and the closest dealer to me is in Escondido and really hate to take it there as they ALWAYS try to do the most expensive thing that there is... Which would be the truck computer... no way jose.

    Would appreciate it if some one could give me an idea where these valves are and any little secrets of how to get to them.
  • stanoskistanoski Member Posts: 76
    Anyone else having this problem?? I have an 2007 RAM 1500 that smells like an old musty towel for about 1 to 2 minutes when the AC is first turned on and then goes away. Same issue since new and in either fresh air or recirulating position. Also does it for 1 to 2 minutes when you turn off the AC and just let the fan run.

    Never had this in my Ford :(

    Anyone can help? Thanks

    Ski in TX
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    You likely have mold from moisture in the system. Turn the AC on recirc and fog your interior with Lysol spray until the system has sucked it all in. Let it run that way for a few minutes... that should kill the mold, but if it was a heavy growth, you may need to do that few times.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • heatertreaterheatertreater Member Posts: 50
    You also need to check that the drain hose coming out of the plenum box and dripping out behind the right front wheel is clear. If the hose is stopped up or not flowing efficiently, it can cause moisture build-up and promote growth of mildew.

    The internal intake port is located behind the glove box in the upper right corner. With the fan running and the system on re-circ, any liquid sprayed into the intake will be pulled through the evaporator core. Don't worry about too much liquid as it will be blocked by the core and drain out the bottom through the hose mentioned above.

    HeaterTreater
  • heatertreaterheatertreater Member Posts: 50
    Watch for a video showing the entire analysis and repair process to show up on youtube. Should be posted on Friday 4/24/09. The dash has a lot of plastic and screws, but it doesn't take a lot of skill to pull the glove box and center control panel to gain access to the plenum box. It will take an hour or so to fully analyze any failures, but it's just time pulling screws and pulling off panels. Once you see the tricks, it's actually very simple.

    HeaterTreater
  • sk4910sk4910 Member Posts: 2
    The truck getting hot during idling was a bad condensor fan motor. I replaced it and that problem went away. I have checked the re-circ door and the blend door through the glove compartment hole and both of those seem to be operating properly. The popping sound has gone away so I'm guessing the system has shut down that motor. How is it possible that a single zone system can get two different temps. The dual zone system I am told has two blemd doors to separate the two zones and the single zone system has one. When I select the different flow options, i.e. floor, defrost, face, the system seems to be switching properly, but maintains the two very distinct temps. Does the single zone system have two blend doors, where the second one could be my problem?
  • heatertreaterheatertreater Member Posts: 50
    Yes, the dual control has two doors and two motors. The single control is one blend door, but it's really just the same two doors connected together in the middle. Think of it like two flags on a flag pole. The connection between the two doors is very weak and it's possible for one "flag" to break off. The symptom is OK operation on the driver's side, and failure on the passenger side. The Ram has a unique blend scheme with a door above and below the heater core. The top and bottom doors move in unison to sort of "clam shell" the heater core.

    On the single control both the top and bottom set of doors have the same problem with a weak connection between the doors and if you have a broken one on either pair, you'll get strange HVAC behavior. There are aftermarket solutions for this problem, and additional pictures and video that can be found on the internet.

    HeaterTreater
  • diershwdiershw Member Posts: 1
    2001 ram pickup 2500 10 cylinder. I get no heat by turning up the thermostat until the exact half way point. One click past half way and I get full heat. Turning the thermostat back one click turns off the heat again. The dash control panel was replaced with no change in the performance. Help please
    Harry
  • heatertreaterheatertreater Member Posts: 50
    Here's what I think is happening. The motor connector has a strange interface to the plastic blend door that has a tendency to slip. The forces of the actuator motor on the door are too strong and will over time either strip the motor connection or break the plastic axle receptor. When you get the slip type failure, the motor will turn to a certain point, and skip, allowing the door to fall back. Think of it like a record skipping.

    I think you are seeing the door move to a closed point, then slipping and falling back. It will only get worse. In order to diagnose the problem, you will have to get to the plenum box and remove the actuator motor and examine the axle connector. There is a video on YouTube that will give you a step by step process to get to the box, along with information on how to diagnose problems, and a repair procedure that might be of interest. Search "Dodge Ram Heater" to find the video.

    HeaterTreater
  • budc130budc130 Member Posts: 1
    What is the name of the video thats showing on youtube about this repair on air conditioner system?
  • heatertreaterheatertreater Member Posts: 50
    You can find the video by searching "Dodge Ram Heater" or my username or youtube. There are several parts, so you may have to look a little to get them in the proper sequence.
  • wes01wes01 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 01 2500 5.9 cummins. when in turn my AC on the passenger floor board gets soaked with water. Anyone know where it is coming from and how to stop it?
  • partsman2kpartsman2k Member Posts: 15
    Your drain tube it stopped up. If you get under your truck behind your right front wheel and look up you should see a plastic tube sticking down. take a water hose with a nozzle on it and spray it up into the tube to clean it out and you should be fine
  • davidlvgdavidlvg Member Posts: 3
    Sounds to me like you need to replace your heater core.
  • wes01wes01 Member Posts: 2
    thanks. ill try the water hose this afternoon.
  • thebmomthebmom Member Posts: 1
    Please post and let us know if that works! I have a 1996 2500 Diesel that is doing the same thing. We've been chasing that for a while now!
  • towersinktowersink Member Posts: 2
    my 99 ram 1500 blows hot air when its turned on. The truck has a fully charged system. what else could be wrong? :confuse:
  • lawsonhomelawsonhome Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Dodge Ram Diesel... I charged the A/C. The Low pressure oscillates between Too Low and Too High pressure several times a minute. Stays within normal range. Should this be steady? If it should be, what could be wrong?
  • towersinktowersink Member Posts: 2
    If anyone can help me I posted yesterday about my 99' ram 1500 4x4 blowing hot air with a fully charged system. After looking at my truck for an hour or so I noticed that the compressor was not cycling like it should (turning off and on). Also the low pressure side gets so cold that it starts to ice over right above the compressor. Really need some help with this situation. Dont know if the compressor is bad or possibly if the pressure sensors are bad. I could really use some advice to keep repair costs down. Thnx Dave
  • lawsonhomelawsonhome Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Dodge Ram Diesel... I charged the A/C. The Low pressure oscillates between Too Low and Too High pressure several times a minute. Stays within normal range. Should this be steady? If it should be, what could be wrong?
  • jdaggtechjdaggtech Member Posts: 1
    im couriese to know what youre pressures are, are you using a gauge set or just the gauge that comes with the charge cans? if you are using or can get your hands on some gauges and can give me some numbers to work with i can prob. give you a good awnser. one thing you can do real easy is look at all your a/c lines while running the a/c is there any spot that is freezing up? "trace out every line and be shure its not building up with frost anywere, if there is youre prob. is there, somthing is pluged" how mch freon did you put in it? and to awnser your question the psi may fluctuate alittle but should only be a few times a minute max. whats the ambiant temp where you are? that plays a big factor
  • mikey66mikey66 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2004 ram and having problems with my a/c. The 2 vents on the driver side get cold and the 2 on the passenger side blow warm air. The controls are set to recirculate for max cooling. When I complained about this to the dealer they told me I was probably low on freon, why would it blow cold on one side and not the other?? They wouldn't acknowledge it might be a blend door. Has anybody had this problem? I'm told it's really expensive to fix it means removing the dash board to fix blend doors, of course I'm now out of warranty :mad: , Mikey66
  • mikey66mikey66 Member Posts: 4
    Whats the deal with these blend doors? seems to be a common problem. Thats my problem too and the dealer will not acknowledge it. Shouldn't it be some kind of recall. Maybe thats why they went bankrupt bad PR for them.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Check to see if your truck is covered by this TSB... if your truck is still under warranty or has an extended service plan that covers the HVAC system, your repairs should be paid for by Chrysler. Here's the TSB: TSB 24-004-03

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • heatertreaterheatertreater Member Posts: 50
    The dealer may be right with the refrigerant charge check. The RAM plenum box is built with dual flow chambers so that the system can be configured for either single or dual control. On the single control, the blend doors are just connected together and operate as a single unit, but there are still two separate air flow chambers. Air flows through the AC evaporator core before getting to the dual chambers and if there is a temperature differential across the core, it can show up as a difference in temperature on the two sides. Most auto makers constructed the core with refrigerant flowing from top to bottom on dual systems. With this setup both sides would be the same and a lack of efficiency in the core would be equally spread across both sides. Chrysler moves the refrigerant from right to left, so if there is a problem, the passenger side will see it first.

    Charging the system may solve the problem and at least it should be checked, but this can be problematic if your truck is red-flagged as a "leaker". The R134a refrigerant is much less destructive than the old Freon systems, but the EPA regulations are the same. There are stringent requirements for recapture/recycle/repair of leaking refrigerant. You can get caught in government regulations that any suspected leak be repaired to stringent requirements which of course can get into big bucks in a hurry. You can buy recharge cans of R134a at any auto parts store, but it's a shot in the dark to just add refrigerant without monitoring the high and low side pressure and ambient temperature. It's worth it long term to own an AC gauge manifold and learning how to correctly evaluate and charge the system. Harbor Freight has a set that won't break the bank and you may become the most popular resident in the neighborhood with just a little learning. You may also be able to get one from the larger parts stores under their tool loan programs, but the instructions will probably be missing and you'll need to do some online learning. Of course, you need to evaluate your own conscience on doing this, and decide whether or not you will be single-handedly responsible for destroying the planet.

    If the core is OK, the next suspect is the blend doors. Dodge has a strange clam shell door arrangement for the doors in the RAM. There are two doors, an upper and lower that move in unison and cover the top and bottom of the heater core which is on a horizontal plane. On a single control system there are four different flaps(two sides/two sets of doors) that have to operate correctly. The plastic components are susceptible to breakage and it is an expensive repair to remove and repair the plenum box when this inevitably happens. Check the HeaterTreater.net web site for diagnostic information and a video of the analysis and repair process with an aftermarket solution. The RAM system is overly complex and has multiple design weaknesses that will show up over time. Complete information and pictures are available on the web site mentioned above.

    Sorry for making this so complex, but it is! However, maintaining and repairing the system is within the capability of most DIY'ers and much much cheaper with just a little learning and effort.

    HeaterTreater
  • ramhead1ramhead1 Member Posts: 15
    Hi.. Was hoping someone could help.. I have a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Regular cab 5.2 liter engine.. My air conditioning is shutting down.. It runs fine at idle speed, and blows cold air. When I run at street speed, the compressor shuts down, and the fan blows hot air. Last summer I had the evaporator core, a/c acummulator, high and low side switches replaced. At that time, the air would run for 10 minutes or so, then shut down. After a few minutes, it would come back on. Now when it shuts down, the compressor does not come back on, even at idle. I had a friend put gauges on it and the charge seems to be fine. The only thing I can think of is that it is the compressor itself, unless there is some electrical problem or switch that I do not know of.. Any help would be appreciated.. Or a link to an electrical schematic.. Thanks for any help... Keith
  • mikey66mikey66 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the reply, man it get hairy to fool with these systems. My drivers side does get really cold a lot quicker then the passengers side. It could take up to 20 min or more to cool down if at all. The fact that the driver side get really cold quicky could I still be low on feon??? Mike
  • cmoney4cmoney4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Ram 2500 and am having the same issue. I sure hate to take my dash out!
  • heatertreaterheatertreater Member Posts: 50
    Check the HeaterTreater video on YouTube for an overview of how to access and diagnose air flow problems without removing the dash. Repair of the system will run into big $ at the dealer, but it can be done by most DIY'ers for significantly less money and end up with a stronger system that will not fail again like just replacing the broken plastic with more plastic.
  • fourwindsfourwinds Member Posts: 7
    Hello...just recently started to experience minimal air flow through my dash vents, defroster, etc.., regardless of fan speed setting. I dropped the blower motor out of the case and found the recirc door had snapped off and fallen down over the blower, restricting flow. After reading some earlier posts, it sounds like this is a commom problem...I'm wondering if anyone knows about any TSB's issued for this problem? The truck is still within warranty, but it sounds like it will be easier to just buy a new door and install it...in regards to the servo motor controlling the door, does it need to be reset somehow once the new door is installed? Thanks for your help!
  • heatertreaterheatertreater Member Posts: 50
    There isn't a TSB, but the dealer can fix the problem. Their process is to remove the steering wheel/dash/evacuate AC/drain radiator/remove the plenum box and replace the door. It's a fairly involved and time consuming process and you'll end up with another plastic door that will break again plus whatever may have been screwed up in the process of disassembling and re-assembling the truck.

    HeaterTreater has a DIY kit to replace the door by just removing the glove box panel, and provides a metal replacement door that will withstand the forces in the system for the life of the RAM. Check their web site(heatertreater.net) for diagnostic information and a video showing the replacement process.

    This is a common problem with the RAM and is not confined to just the re-circ door. The RAM has four door systems for blend and airflow control and all of them are susceptible to the same fail mode as the re-circ door. While you have the dash open to replace the re-circ door, you should also check the other doors to see if there are additional problems. The two most common fails are the re-circ door and the mode 1 door(controls air distribution for vent VS floor/defrost. Full information is available at the above site.

    The actuator motor is calibrated by the computer and does not require any special alignment when installing the motor. There is a limit pin on the door axle that constrains the movement of the door between two stop points molded into the housing. The blend doors/Mode 1 door/Mode2 door all have two stop points for open/closed. However, for some unknown reason, the re-circ door only has one stop point and all force is transferred directly to the door in re-circ mode. This makes the plastic door more susceptible to failure and the design flaw is what's responsible for the failure you are seeing. While the re-circ door is a little worse with only one stop, the other doors aren't much better and over time this will be an ongoing failure issue. The doors aren't particularly hard to fix with the HeaterTreater kit, but you need to know what to look for and keep an eye on the system.
  • fourwindsfourwinds Member Posts: 7
    Heatertreater, thanks for the response...I just viewed the vids at your website, very informative and helpful. Extremely frustrating though to spend $$$$$ on a brand new vehicle, only to end up pulling it apart and chopping up the plenum with a dremel...since I am still within warranty, and the recirc door was relatively easy to get out, I'm going to hit the dealer up for a replacement this time around. Once I run out of warranty freebies, I guess I'll be paying you a visit for the real fix. Thanks again for the response.
  • heatertreaterheatertreater Member Posts: 50
    After going through the information on the web site you probably have a better understanding of the problem and root cause than the dealership. The HeaterTreater hardware and installation method was developed for out of warranty DIY customers. However, the metal doors can be installed just like the OEM plastic when you remove the plenum box. It would be exactly the same as the dealer fix, only a reliable metal door in place of plastic.

    This is going to sound like shameless self promotion, but since you already have a little frustration with the dealer, why not mess with their minds a little. Suggest that you want warranty work done on your truck, but want HeaterTreater metal doors installed to replace all the cheap plastic and demand that they pay for the parts to make up for obvious design flaws in the system. You would end up with a long term reliable system and no cuts in the box.

    There's no way in he11 they'll go for it, but at least you can get a little satisfaction from being smarter about the Dodge Ram than they are..... In reality this would be a smart customer focused move on their part, but I wouldn't count on it.
  • ellisjay2ellisjay2 Member Posts: 3
    The A/C will work but doesn't blow hard enough, I've even tried closing the vents on passenger side while riding alone to send the pressure to the driver side vents but for us ram owners its obvious the air still seeps through the vents while closed. It is now hell scorching summer heat with the range of mid 90's to 100 here in atlanta GA, and after an early mourning 8hr shift its around evening hell heat time, and snow balls, + A/C+ interior = is needed. I could be wrong but I believe it blows better after driving a minute, but it seems like with this being a truck and on direct face dial, and full blast, it should be hitting me in the face little harder. Now it may take a minute but it does cool down temp wise, especially at night which is self explanitory, but after being in other smaller size vehicles with A/C blowing 10 times harder than mine, just wanted to check around and get some opinons or similar issues...then again it may be fine..but not sure...
  • fourwindsfourwinds Member Posts: 7
    As much as I would love to have some fun at the dealer's expense, I'll just be happy to get the repair done. My original dealer who sold me the truck is now out of business, thanks to the "reinvention" of Chrysler. The dealership I ended up at couldn't give two cents that I'm having this issue, and said they would call when they could order the recirc door (which the tech kept calling the "blend" door, so I'm sure he's ordering the wrong one). What makes me nervous is having to take the truck in so that they can perform the repair, instead of just popping it in myself.
  • alanstevenalansteven Member Posts: 12
    hi..i seem to have a similar problem to you..the a/c works for about a minute then stops.. had the re-gas..that didnt work.. changed the particle filter..and that didnt either...i noticed that the outlet pipe on the filter..(located on the passenger side (lhd) in the engine comp) was warm ..as i think it should be ..and the inlet side freezes..which i think blocks the pipe up...this makes me conclude that it could be a heat sensor switch..but i dont know were it is or if it even has one..mine blows hot on one side also..but before it freezes both sides work...if my guess is anywhere near correct it should be a cheap an easy repair...so if any info /diagrms of the a/c come your way i would like to see them..cheers al
  • heatertreaterheatertreater Member Posts: 50
    There are two ways that you can see a differential between the passenger and driver's sides. The system is designed with separate air flow chambers for the passenger and driver's sides. The same box is used for dual or single control with the difference being separate doors and motors vs a single axle with two doors, like two flags on a flagpole. There are two possible explanations for your symptoms.

    1. All air flows through the evaporator core into the two channels. On other dual control systems, the evaporator coils run vertically and if there is a gradient across the core, it is equally divided between the passenger and driver's side channels. On the RAM, the core runs horizontally from the driver's side chamber to the passenger side chamber. If there is a differential across the core, the drivers side will be cold and the passenger side which is further downstream will be warmer. If the refrigerant charge is low, the impact of having the evaporator core designed 90 degrees out of phase is that the drivers side will be cooler. This problem is solved by having the coolant charge perfectly adjusted...not too low, not too high. This is actually a design flaw in the system and there is no good solution other than keeping the charge perfect.

    2. The system has two sets of blend doors that operate in unison and "clamshell" around the heater core. Each set has two doors(two flags on the flagpole). The connection between the two "flags" is a weak point and the back door can snap off, leaving one side of the heater core exposed on one side. The driver's side which is the front one can be completely normal, but the back door can be broken. This will also cause a temperature differential like you are seeing. The only way to determine if this is the problem is "exploratory surgery" to get into the box and check for a broken door.

    My best advice would be to check the refrigerant charge and make sure that it is correct. If this doesn't solve the problem, I'd suggest getting the HeaterTreater blend door kit and following the instructions to get into the box and look for problems. You would also be able to physically check the temperature across the core when the box is open. You will be able to at least get enough information to figure out the problem.
  • mikey66mikey66 Member Posts: 4
    can anybody tell me which valve on the a/c system is the low pressure side so I can charge my system. Is there a diagram available. ???
  • alanstevenalansteven Member Posts: 12
    hi..on my dodge Ram 1500 the low pressure valve is on the passenger side (assuming LHD) of the radiator.
  • kstellkstell Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Dodge Ram, and the warranty just expired, and I to am experiencing the problem with air flow. However it did not start until recently after my wife brought the truck and had the oil changed. Is there a vacume hose which runs from the engine to the firewall, which could have possibly been knocked off by those guys changing the oil. If so where exactly would I look. If anyone can help please let me know.
  • alanstevenalansteven Member Posts: 12
    hi..when you say air flow ....is that hot/cold air from a/c and heater in the cab ?
  • kstellkstell Member Posts: 2
    yes. For the A/C, to assist in the recirt door opening and closing.
  • alanstevenalansteven Member Posts: 12
    hi..does anyone know where i can get a replacement right hand door mirror glass for my ram sport 1500 ?..2002 sport ..seems to be a lot of wing mirrors but not any replacement glass.. I`m in the U.K. and not that many over here...
  • alanstevenalansteven Member Posts: 12
    could be the connectors on the high pressure switch above the a/c compressor .. a mechanics helper pulled mine off checking the oil..or the a/c might need gassing...could be a fuse...wouldn`t think it is a hose ..also you could check the inlet/outlet pipes on particle filter..(passenger side rear of engine bay black cylinder)should be warm and cold but not frozen..if it is frozen whilst a/c running probably be high pressure switch disconnected...hope it helps
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